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Everything posted by LooseSeal

  1. Hey guys! Would anyone who has the kit and isn't building the 'S for Sugar' markings mind sending me the decal for the big starboard 'S'? More than happy to pay for it and pay for postage, of course. I *might* have put a big finger on mine while it was wet during the maneuvering of this rather large beast and it may or may not have ended up looking like tagliatelle stuck to my fingertip... If anyone can help out, give me a message! Thanks!
  2. I'd be worried about what something that strong could do to the clear parts. Everything was thinned was Levelling Thinner. I'd use that if it weren't so darn expensive and hard to find for someone living in NI. To be honest Ade, I hadn't considered just lightly sanding down and painting over the top of it. Mr Surfacer is extremely thin so I guess another layer of it as primer wouldn't hurt? As for the paint, I was laying it down rather thinly anyway - I spent the best part of a week doing detailed pre-shading using no less than 10 different colours. You can imagine why I'm rather annoyed about having to do it all over again! But - I'd rather do it all over again and have something I'm proud of than ever have to look at the toy-like finish I'm currently faced with. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and see how it turns out! Thanks for the suggestions guys
  3. So I've seen and watched plenty of descriptions online of how to strip paint off models. But invariably, these examples involve plopping a small model or piece into a container and letting it steep. My predicament is this - I utterly messed up the painting on a 1/48 Lancaster. I also made the mistake of attaching the wings. The Dark Earth colour was completely wrong (thanks AK 'Real' Colors! But god only knows why I continued using it...), I covered up all my underside shading and ultimately spilled paint out of the airbrush onto the wing and stripped a big circle off it. That was the last straw... I really don't want to scrap this model, because the kit is great (HK), I was really happy with the interior, and I think I could do a lot better on the outside. But I can't figure out how to take the paint/primer off without causing an absolute mess to the canopy, windows or interior? Would Tamiya Paint Remover work or do products like that that also need the pieces to be steeped prior to scrubbing? Would be really grateful for any suggestions on this! Particularly on products which might do the job. Oh, and I've used acrylics (AK, Aqueous and Tamiya) over a Mr Surfacer primer. Now off to my Vulcan build and inevitably mess that up!
  4. Just resurrecting this thread to ask people have got the kit - is there anything wrong with your canopy? Mine had a slight fracture running down where the pilot would look out of, not a huge one but a bit irritating given its prominent position. I asked for a replacement, which arrived today.... and behold the exact same fracture in the exact same place. So I'm wondering if this is a manufacturing issue and they're all the same, or if I should ask for yet another replacement.
  5. Absolutely recommend it It's gone together so well for me.
  6. Thanks for the link Ray. It was much as I expected... I think I'll end up painting the chips on myself. I believe I tried to paint a model in sections once before, and the sections all ended up looking subtly different from each other due to me being unable to replicate my technique from one day to the next Thanks for the confirmation of my fears though I'll get on with starting the final painting!
  7. So I've done 'hairspray' chipping (using Ammo products) lots before, but always applying it then painting and immediately chipping all very quickly. However, I'm building the HK Lancaster and was going to layer it all in dull aluminium first (much like in this excellent build - https://www.kfs-miniatures.com/1-48-avro-lancaster-b-mk-i-hk-models-budowa-cz-2/) and proceed to chip back to it after all the painting/post-shading is done. But I'm wondering... will that layer of chipping fluid still actually be there and active after all the pre-shading, base coating and post-shading is done, potentially a week or more later? Particularly if I'm using, for example, Blu tack to demarcate the camo lines... would that lift up the chipping fluid? Curious if anyone knows about this or has experience doing it... I could always just chip with a brush after painting, but I do like using chipping fluid! Thanks!
  8. Hmm.. he used the 1200 Mr Surfacer instead, perhaps I'll try a less coarse one then, especially as it's a smaller scale. Thanks for the link! I'm going to do one wing lower wing surface first and see how it looks. At least with Mr Surfacer you can just wipe it off with alcohol thinner if it doesn't work.
  9. Hi guys, I'm just about to start on the HK Models 1/48 Lancaster and could use the expertise of those much more experienced than I! While the kit is absolutely superb in its detail, the one thing I find lacking is the distinctive 'oil-canning' of the panels. So, I was wondering about how to recreate this and was thinking of using Mr Surfacer 500 to raise some panels, and the engraving tool on my Dremel to recess a smaller number. Does that seem like something that could work? Has anyone attempted something similar? Or am I potentially just going to waste many hours on something that may look a little silly in the end? As if I've never done that with a model before... Any feedback on the idea welcome, or alternative suggestions! Thanks!
  10. You may be right, although it seems to be specifically the UK which is highlighted as not being able to be shipped to anymore, so I doubt it's anything to do with transport disruption. My mind is swaying to Brexit related issues... but then I do live in NI, and I'm getting a little biased at this point. Not being able to order thinners and many other products from the mainland is an absolute nightmare these days... just had an order of Mr Surfacer Black cancelled by Antics Online a full 2 or 3 months after making it because they won't ship to NI anymore. Funnily enough, I remember I know someone who lives just across the border in the Republic so I'm going to order the LED and have them sent there, and then get them sent on to myself. It's times like this you realise just how absurd this world can be! Hopefully these LEDs work out alright though. I assume painting them with Tamiya Clear Red should do the trick. Thanks again for the advice anyways! And thank god I don't need to mess around with Arduino...
  11. Thank you very much for all the suggestions guys! Didn't think I'd get so much help so quickly Thanks in particular for the recommendation to Evan Designs. I found this one on there - https://evandesigns.com/collections/hobby-leds/products/quick-burst-stobe-flash?variant=39452527886384 and I think that is precisely what I'm looking for. I got all my hopes up... and then I went to shipping and... "We cannot ship to UK at this time" Damn Brexit!!!! I don't suppose any other retailer does this type of thing?
  12. Hi guys, Not sure if this is the right place to ask but I feel like I'm going out of my mind! I'm planning out a 1/48 Chinook build, and inspired by someone else's, I'm set on installing micro LED lights (front lights, NAV, interior and anti-collision/strobe) and making the rotors turn. The rotors shouldn't be too much of an issue, neither should the solid NAV and interior lights. But I can't get my head around how to make the anti-collision lights do their intermittent flashing, which is essentially a pause of almost a second then a rapid red flash - I guess this video, one minute in, shows it quite well - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZtuwQtnWUY I've spent days now trying to research the whole Arduino thing and programming LEDs. Sadly I'm not much of an electrician and even less of a programmer... Is using something like the Arduino the only way to get LEDs to flash like that? Or is there a simpler way anyone knows of? Any suggestions at all welcome!
  13. Hey. To be honest, I gave up on the black Stynylrez and switched to using Mr Surfacer 1500 black instead. I still use the white and grey in Stynylrez, but I just couldn't get the black to work. The only thing that had any effect was thinning it with water, but then it just became way too liquid. I didn't try Vallejo thinners as Ian said above, so maybe that works? Personally though, I'm more than happy with Mr Surfacer so I don't see any need to go back. Only problem with Mr Surfacer is it's essentially become gold dust during the pandemic... barely a drop in stock.
  14. I wasn't sure if I should post this here or the AFV section but I guess there may be more 'know-how' over here I'm attempting to make vehicle camouflage for a 1/35 Leopard 2, and my book of reference photos shows them almost uniformly draped in coniferous branches. I've been looking all over though for what feels like weeks now and it seems nigh-on impossible to find that type of branch anywhere. Easy enough to find entire conifer trees but they're all in small scale, for train scenery I guess. Was going to get a Woodland Scenics full 'Forever Green' tree and snip off individual branches, but it's only 6 inches in height and £15 is a lot to spend if it might be too small. https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/trees/57474-6-7-classic-forever-green-3-pk Would this type of thing work, if it could be attached to branches? https://railsofsheffield.com/products/13412/woodland-scenics-wf54-any-scale-conifer-green-foliage Has anyone ever seen a good example of this type of foliage online? Or even something that could pass as similar? I'm not convinced my limited scratch-building skills could make the unique needley-ness of that type of branch. Thanks if anyone can lend a hand!
  15. It is weird! Do you use it straight from the bottle or thin it down? I'm considering passing it through some kind of strainer to see if there are clumps in there that I'm just not seeing.
  16. Hi guys, So, I have the black, white and grey Stynylrez primers. The white and grey have always sprayed pretty well for me, but for whatever reason, the black is just a complete nightmare... I've now tried 2 different bottles and had the same issues since the moment I opened them (so really shouldn't be due to the freezing issue I've heard about). For a while it will spray perfectly, then stop intermittently before just giving up entirely. Weirdly enough, when I then inspect the inners of the airbrush the nozzle isn't blocked and I can't find any clumps or dried bits anywhere else. I haven't a clue why it stops spraying, and why it only affects the black. Has anyone else had problems with the black? Is there any particular thinner I should be using? I think this is so frustrating because I love the finish of Stynylez and I don't think there's much better out there.
  17. Hi, So I'm generally a beginner in the hobby, but I'm even more a beginner in terms of using oil paints and I think I struggle to understand how to use them appropriately. I'm looking to use them to shade/highlight some 1/48 figures but unsure as to which techniques to use. As it stands the figures have been detail painted and had a flat varnish applied. From what I can tell there are two main ways for me to approach this (but I imagine they could be wrong and there could be others!): Either using the oil more or less straight out of the tube in tiny amounts in the right places, then using a dry brush to blend it in. Or thinning the paint slightly and applying it wet to the right area. Are those correct techniques and which would be the best/most effective? I've tried the former and it seems ok, but can't get the hang of applying oils wet at all... Also - some of the figures are Luftwaffe mechanics and therefore wearing black overalls. What are good colours for highlights and shadows for a black base? I tried using small amount of white for highlights, but it doesn't seem to look right, makes it look a bit grey actually... Thanks for any tips!
  18. Hi! I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or knows of any tutorials on how to attach rigging on aircraft. This is my first attempt at this and it's a tad daunting... it seems most of the stuff online is for biplane rigging, but I'm trying to figure out how to do the antenna on a Bf-109. I've seen people saying that they drill small holes in the areas where the wire is attached, but given that the model is already mostly finished, wouldn't that damage it? If drilling is the easiest way, how would you go about securing the wire inside the hole? I'm also mystified as to how to get the middle vertical wire attached to the horizontal... as you can tell I'm a beginner with rigging! Any advice very welcome! Oh, and I have the Uschi van der Rosten rigging to work with.
  19. Thanks for the extra photos and advice guys! It's been nice to learn about this, hopefully should make a nice point of interest if I somehow manage to pull it off with some success.
  20. There is one photo of Paper Doll, and oddly enough not only does it seem to have the white/grey exhaust stains but actually some substantial chipping on the leading edges of the wings, which you'd think would be unusual for Hellcats with the Gloss Sea Blue paint. I'm also toying with the idea of bullet hole damage, as both the plane and pilot didn't come back in great shape during the Battle of Leyte Gulf. So much so that it was immediately pushed overboard to make room for other aircraft. In general, though, I prefer a slightly worn/dirty look. But also... a kit this big and well-detailed is like a canvas crying out to be painted and shown off
  21. That's really interesting to know! Thanks guys. It's part of the reason I love this hobby that I get to learn stuff about the subjects I'm working on. You've given me something to think about, Work in Progress, as I'll be doing the 'Paper Doll' aircraft. So if he'd just got onto the USS Essex from his '5 kill' sortie then I'd imagine the engine has been under a pretty extreme workload. So I'm thinking a touch of brown/grey to show a previous easier mission, then black/brown over that again for the Leyte Gulf mission. Thanks Black Knight, too! Good to see someone else from NI!
  22. Hi guys, this may be a pretty stupid/obvious question, but... I'm just doing initial research and planning before starting Airfix's 1/24 Hellcat, and one thing I've noticed in some reference photos (but not all of them) as well as a few builds is that the streaking from the exhausts is sometimes a whiteish/grey colour, as opposed to the black/brown I'd have imagined or seen on most other warbirds. I was wondering if anyone could shed light on what might have caused that colouration? Was it heavy use perhaps? The sea air? Different fuel types/producers? I genuinely have no idea, but don't want to get it entirely wrong. Thanks if anyone has any ideas!
  23. Thanks guys. I think the AK Air series is just incredibly fussy and needs their specific thinner, as not even the Mr Color Levelling thinner works (and that's alcohol, right? Just made it a horrible mess), so neither alcohol nor lacquer works... after trying 5 different brands. Even when it did sort of work with the Vallejo Medium Thinner, I was deeply unimpressed with the quality of the paint... I found it doesn't spray well, clogs up the airbrush, very hard to get the right ratio of thinner to paint.. And weirdly, impossible to do hairspray chipping with this paint as it simply does not scratch off in flakes, it almost comes off like soft leather. So I've given up on AK (not my first bad experience with them, but it will be the last) and decided to go with the RLM range in Mission Models.
  24. LooseSeal

    AK Air Series?

    Hi guys, I recently got the AK Air Luftwaffe Camouflage set for a 1/48 BF-109 G-6. I'm just wondering if anyone else has used these paints and how they've used them? I tried thinning them with Mr Hobby Self-levelling thinner but it just turned into a gloopy mess. Neither Tamiya nor AK's so-called "high compatibility" thinner worked either, so the only one I had on hand which did seem to work was Vallejo's acrylic Medium Thinner. But - the paint when applied seems to have an almost leathery texture to it... Is this normal? It also seemed to bubble across the surface until it was dry, which was a bit disconcerting... Can anyone recommend a thinner which does work with AK Air? Or... should I just switch to RLM paints from a different brand? I was thinking of Lifecolor...
  25. Hey guys, I'm working on a Trumpeter 1/16 T-34/85, wondering about something and hoping any T-34 experts might know! Would the interior of the tank be a smooth finish or more of a rough cast? Ie: something I can replicate by stippling Mr Surfacer. Reference photos are either severely rusted and in bad condition, or just inconsistent or unclear. The front glacis interior does seem to have a texture to it, but the side walls not so much. If anyone can offer greater clarity, that would be appreciated!!
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