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LooseSeal

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About LooseSeal

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  1. I wasn't sure if I should post this here or the AFV section but I guess there may be more 'know-how' over here I'm attempting to make vehicle camouflage for a 1/35 Leopard 2, and my book of reference photos shows them almost uniformly draped in coniferous branches. I've been looking all over though for what feels like weeks now and it seems nigh-on impossible to find that type of branch anywhere. Easy enough to find entire conifer trees but they're all in small scale, for train scenery I guess. Was going to get a Woodland Scenics full 'Forever Green' tree and snip off individual branche
  2. It is weird! Do you use it straight from the bottle or thin it down? I'm considering passing it through some kind of strainer to see if there are clumps in there that I'm just not seeing.
  3. Hi guys, So, I have the black, white and grey Stynylrez primers. The white and grey have always sprayed pretty well for me, but for whatever reason, the black is just a complete nightmare... I've now tried 2 different bottles and had the same issues since the moment I opened them (so really shouldn't be due to the freezing issue I've heard about). For a while it will spray perfectly, then stop intermittently before just giving up entirely. Weirdly enough, when I then inspect the inners of the airbrush the nozzle isn't blocked and I can't find any clumps or dried bits anywhere else.
  4. Hi, So I'm generally a beginner in the hobby, but I'm even more a beginner in terms of using oil paints and I think I struggle to understand how to use them appropriately. I'm looking to use them to shade/highlight some 1/48 figures but unsure as to which techniques to use. As it stands the figures have been detail painted and had a flat varnish applied. From what I can tell there are two main ways for me to approach this (but I imagine they could be wrong and there could be others!): Either using the oil more or less straight out of the tube in tiny amounts in the right place
  5. Hi! I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or knows of any tutorials on how to attach rigging on aircraft. This is my first attempt at this and it's a tad daunting... it seems most of the stuff online is for biplane rigging, but I'm trying to figure out how to do the antenna on a Bf-109. I've seen people saying that they drill small holes in the areas where the wire is attached, but given that the model is already mostly finished, wouldn't that damage it? If drilling is the easiest way, how would you go about securing the wire inside the hole? I'm also mystified as to how to get the mi
  6. Thanks for the extra photos and advice guys! It's been nice to learn about this, hopefully should make a nice point of interest if I somehow manage to pull it off with some success.
  7. There is one photo of Paper Doll, and oddly enough not only does it seem to have the white/grey exhaust stains but actually some substantial chipping on the leading edges of the wings, which you'd think would be unusual for Hellcats with the Gloss Sea Blue paint. I'm also toying with the idea of bullet hole damage, as both the plane and pilot didn't come back in great shape during the Battle of Leyte Gulf. So much so that it was immediately pushed overboard to make room for other aircraft. In general, though, I prefer a slightly worn/dirty look. But also... a kit this big and well-de
  8. That's really interesting to know! Thanks guys. It's part of the reason I love this hobby that I get to learn stuff about the subjects I'm working on. You've given me something to think about, Work in Progress, as I'll be doing the 'Paper Doll' aircraft. So if he'd just got onto the USS Essex from his '5 kill' sortie then I'd imagine the engine has been under a pretty extreme workload. So I'm thinking a touch of brown/grey to show a previous easier mission, then black/brown over that again for the Leyte Gulf mission. Thanks Black Knight, too! Good to see someone else from NI!
  9. Hi guys, this may be a pretty stupid/obvious question, but... I'm just doing initial research and planning before starting Airfix's 1/24 Hellcat, and one thing I've noticed in some reference photos (but not all of them) as well as a few builds is that the streaking from the exhausts is sometimes a whiteish/grey colour, as opposed to the black/brown I'd have imagined or seen on most other warbirds. I was wondering if anyone could shed light on what might have caused that colouration? Was it heavy use perhaps? The sea air? Different fuel types/producers? I genuinely have no idea, but
  10. Thanks guys. I think the AK Air series is just incredibly fussy and needs their specific thinner, as not even the Mr Color Levelling thinner works (and that's alcohol, right? Just made it a horrible mess), so neither alcohol nor lacquer works... after trying 5 different brands. Even when it did sort of work with the Vallejo Medium Thinner, I was deeply unimpressed with the quality of the paint... I found it doesn't spray well, clogs up the airbrush, very hard to get the right ratio of thinner to paint.. And weirdly, impossible to do hairspray chipping with this paint as it simply does not
  11. LooseSeal

    AK Air Series?

    Hi guys, I recently got the AK Air Luftwaffe Camouflage set for a 1/48 BF-109 G-6. I'm just wondering if anyone else has used these paints and how they've used them? I tried thinning them with Mr Hobby Self-levelling thinner but it just turned into a gloopy mess. Neither Tamiya nor AK's so-called "high compatibility" thinner worked either, so the only one I had on hand which did seem to work was Vallejo's acrylic Medium Thinner. But - the paint when applied seems to have an almost leathery texture to it... Is this normal? It also seemed to bubble across the surface until it was dry
  12. Hey guys, I'm working on a Trumpeter 1/16 T-34/85, wondering about something and hoping any T-34 experts might know! Would the interior of the tank be a smooth finish or more of a rough cast? Ie: something I can replicate by stippling Mr Surfacer. Reference photos are either severely rusted and in bad condition, or just inconsistent or unclear. The front glacis interior does seem to have a texture to it, but the side walls not so much. If anyone can offer greater clarity, that would be appreciated!!
  13. Found a German site, Modular, which offers the perfect dimensions in rectangular brass bars, so that's a start! As regards to attaching the rope to the FRIES, I was wondering whether the top loop of the metal rope could slot in the top of a short, plastic tube, and the rest of the rope could then slot into the bottom when the model is positioned, also making it removable. If it was a tight enough fit then it shouldn't wobble. Not sure if I explained that well, so here's a very crude illustration Obviously it isn't accurate in any way, but if i
  14. Yes, thank you! I've just had a look at some of their stuff. I reckon a U-shaped brass rod could be turned into more or less the right shape, then the slide-out bar soldered on and the brackets added from spare PE. Would a soldered joint be strong enough to support the weight? I've had mishaps with over-estimating solder before...
  15. Thank you for the ideas guys! I'm sort of stalled at the moment anyway as I'm noticing some other kit mistakes that need to be sorted too. I was indeed thinking about replacing the entire FRIES system, using steel rod for the slide-out bars. Need to think on what to use for the rectangular structure though This is the type of FRIES we're talking about, because there seem to be two variants, an older and newer version. Typically the newer one would have been much easier to replace! If I was to replace it with a strong metal version, I'd need to
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