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LooseSeal

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  1. Hey guys! Would anyone who has the kit and isn't building the 'S for Sugar' markings mind sending me the decal for the big starboard 'S'? More than happy to pay for it and pay for postage, of course. I *might* have put a big finger on mine while it was wet during the maneuvering of this rather large beast and it may or may not have ended up looking like tagliatelle stuck to my fingertip... If anyone can help out, give me a message! Thanks!
  2. I'd be worried about what something that strong could do to the clear parts. Everything was thinned was Levelling Thinner. I'd use that if it weren't so darn expensive and hard to find for someone living in NI. To be honest Ade, I hadn't considered just lightly sanding down and painting over the top of it. Mr Surfacer is extremely thin so I guess another layer of it as primer wouldn't hurt? As for the paint, I was laying it down rather thinly anyway - I spent the best part of a week doing detailed pre-shading using no less than 10 different colours. You can imagine why I'm rather annoyed about having to do it all over again! But - I'd rather do it all over again and have something I'm proud of than ever have to look at the toy-like finish I'm currently faced with. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and see how it turns out! Thanks for the suggestions guys
  3. So I've seen and watched plenty of descriptions online of how to strip paint off models. But invariably, these examples involve plopping a small model or piece into a container and letting it steep. My predicament is this - I utterly messed up the painting on a 1/48 Lancaster. I also made the mistake of attaching the wings. The Dark Earth colour was completely wrong (thanks AK 'Real' Colors! But god only knows why I continued using it...), I covered up all my underside shading and ultimately spilled paint out of the airbrush onto the wing and stripped a big circle off it. That was the last straw... I really don't want to scrap this model, because the kit is great (HK), I was really happy with the interior, and I think I could do a lot better on the outside. But I can't figure out how to take the paint/primer off without causing an absolute mess to the canopy, windows or interior? Would Tamiya Paint Remover work or do products like that that also need the pieces to be steeped prior to scrubbing? Would be really grateful for any suggestions on this! Particularly on products which might do the job. Oh, and I've used acrylics (AK, Aqueous and Tamiya) over a Mr Surfacer primer. Now off to my Vulcan build and inevitably mess that up!
  4. Just resurrecting this thread to ask people have got the kit - is there anything wrong with your canopy? Mine had a slight fracture running down where the pilot would look out of, not a huge one but a bit irritating given its prominent position. I asked for a replacement, which arrived today.... and behold the exact same fracture in the exact same place. So I'm wondering if this is a manufacturing issue and they're all the same, or if I should ask for yet another replacement.
  5. Absolutely recommend it It's gone together so well for me.
  6. Thanks for the link Ray. It was much as I expected... I think I'll end up painting the chips on myself. I believe I tried to paint a model in sections once before, and the sections all ended up looking subtly different from each other due to me being unable to replicate my technique from one day to the next Thanks for the confirmation of my fears though I'll get on with starting the final painting!
  7. So I've done 'hairspray' chipping (using Ammo products) lots before, but always applying it then painting and immediately chipping all very quickly. However, I'm building the HK Lancaster and was going to layer it all in dull aluminium first (much like in this excellent build - https://www.kfs-miniatures.com/1-48-avro-lancaster-b-mk-i-hk-models-budowa-cz-2/) and proceed to chip back to it after all the painting/post-shading is done. But I'm wondering... will that layer of chipping fluid still actually be there and active after all the pre-shading, base coating and post-shading is done, potentially a week or more later? Particularly if I'm using, for example, Blu tack to demarcate the camo lines... would that lift up the chipping fluid? Curious if anyone knows about this or has experience doing it... I could always just chip with a brush after painting, but I do like using chipping fluid! Thanks!
  8. Hmm.. he used the 1200 Mr Surfacer instead, perhaps I'll try a less coarse one then, especially as it's a smaller scale. Thanks for the link! I'm going to do one wing lower wing surface first and see how it looks. At least with Mr Surfacer you can just wipe it off with alcohol thinner if it doesn't work.
  9. Hi guys, I'm just about to start on the HK Models 1/48 Lancaster and could use the expertise of those much more experienced than I! While the kit is absolutely superb in its detail, the one thing I find lacking is the distinctive 'oil-canning' of the panels. So, I was wondering about how to recreate this and was thinking of using Mr Surfacer 500 to raise some panels, and the engraving tool on my Dremel to recess a smaller number. Does that seem like something that could work? Has anyone attempted something similar? Or am I potentially just going to waste many hours on something that may look a little silly in the end? As if I've never done that with a model before... Any feedback on the idea welcome, or alternative suggestions! Thanks!
  10. You may be right, although it seems to be specifically the UK which is highlighted as not being able to be shipped to anymore, so I doubt it's anything to do with transport disruption. My mind is swaying to Brexit related issues... but then I do live in NI, and I'm getting a little biased at this point. Not being able to order thinners and many other products from the mainland is an absolute nightmare these days... just had an order of Mr Surfacer Black cancelled by Antics Online a full 2 or 3 months after making it because they won't ship to NI anymore. Funnily enough, I remember I know someone who lives just across the border in the Republic so I'm going to order the LED and have them sent there, and then get them sent on to myself. It's times like this you realise just how absurd this world can be! Hopefully these LEDs work out alright though. I assume painting them with Tamiya Clear Red should do the trick. Thanks again for the advice anyways! And thank god I don't need to mess around with Arduino...
  11. Thank you very much for all the suggestions guys! Didn't think I'd get so much help so quickly Thanks in particular for the recommendation to Evan Designs. I found this one on there - https://evandesigns.com/collections/hobby-leds/products/quick-burst-stobe-flash?variant=39452527886384 and I think that is precisely what I'm looking for. I got all my hopes up... and then I went to shipping and... "We cannot ship to UK at this time" Damn Brexit!!!! I don't suppose any other retailer does this type of thing?
  12. Hi guys, Not sure if this is the right place to ask but I feel like I'm going out of my mind! I'm planning out a 1/48 Chinook build, and inspired by someone else's, I'm set on installing micro LED lights (front lights, NAV, interior and anti-collision/strobe) and making the rotors turn. The rotors shouldn't be too much of an issue, neither should the solid NAV and interior lights. But I can't get my head around how to make the anti-collision lights do their intermittent flashing, which is essentially a pause of almost a second then a rapid red flash - I guess this video, one minute in, shows it quite well - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZtuwQtnWUY I've spent days now trying to research the whole Arduino thing and programming LEDs. Sadly I'm not much of an electrician and even less of a programmer... Is using something like the Arduino the only way to get LEDs to flash like that? Or is there a simpler way anyone knows of? Any suggestions at all welcome!
  13. Hey. To be honest, I gave up on the black Stynylrez and switched to using Mr Surfacer 1500 black instead. I still use the white and grey in Stynylrez, but I just couldn't get the black to work. The only thing that had any effect was thinning it with water, but then it just became way too liquid. I didn't try Vallejo thinners as Ian said above, so maybe that works? Personally though, I'm more than happy with Mr Surfacer so I don't see any need to go back. Only problem with Mr Surfacer is it's essentially become gold dust during the pandemic... barely a drop in stock.
  14. I wasn't sure if I should post this here or the AFV section but I guess there may be more 'know-how' over here I'm attempting to make vehicle camouflage for a 1/35 Leopard 2, and my book of reference photos shows them almost uniformly draped in coniferous branches. I've been looking all over though for what feels like weeks now and it seems nigh-on impossible to find that type of branch anywhere. Easy enough to find entire conifer trees but they're all in small scale, for train scenery I guess. Was going to get a Woodland Scenics full 'Forever Green' tree and snip off individual branches, but it's only 6 inches in height and £15 is a lot to spend if it might be too small. https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/trees/57474-6-7-classic-forever-green-3-pk Would this type of thing work, if it could be attached to branches? https://railsofsheffield.com/products/13412/woodland-scenics-wf54-any-scale-conifer-green-foliage Has anyone ever seen a good example of this type of foliage online? Or even something that could pass as similar? I'm not convinced my limited scratch-building skills could make the unique needley-ness of that type of branch. Thanks if anyone can lend a hand!
  15. It is weird! Do you use it straight from the bottle or thin it down? I'm considering passing it through some kind of strainer to see if there are clumps in there that I'm just not seeing.
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