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About LooseSeal

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  1. Found a German site, Modular, which offers the perfect dimensions in rectangular brass bars, so that's a start! As regards to attaching the rope to the FRIES, I was wondering whether the top loop of the metal rope could slot in the top of a short, plastic tube, and the rest of the rope could then slot into the bottom when the model is positioned, also making it removable. If it was a tight enough fit then it shouldn't wobble. Not sure if I explained that well, so here's a very crude illustration Obviously it isn't accurate in any way, but if it worked it might be a sacrifice worth the end result. A big if, though!
  2. Yes, thank you! I've just had a look at some of their stuff. I reckon a U-shaped brass rod could be turned into more or less the right shape, then the slide-out bar soldered on and the brackets added from spare PE. Would a soldered joint be strong enough to support the weight? I've had mishaps with over-estimating solder before...
  3. Thank you for the ideas guys! I'm sort of stalled at the moment anyway as I'm noticing some other kit mistakes that need to be sorted too. I was indeed thinking about replacing the entire FRIES system, using steel rod for the slide-out bars. Need to think on what to use for the rectangular structure though This is the type of FRIES we're talking about, because there seem to be two variants, an older and newer version. Typically the newer one would have been much easier to replace! If I was to replace it with a strong metal version, I'd need to figure out how to create the attachment points at the end (I think the red hoops can be sacrificed to make it work..). And more importantly, how to attach the 'ropes' to the attachment points. My original 'fantasy' idea was to be able to somehow 'plug' the 'ropes' into the attachment points so that the model could be removed at will (for transport/cleaning etc). How to actually achieve that, however, is bewildering me... @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies I've never worked with carbon fibre before, would you use it for the 'ropes' or the FRIES system itself? Could it be shaped to look like a rope? The steel rod I got is pretty strong, although there is naturally a bit of spring to it... but the advantage is that I can coil it at the bottom to give as sturdy a base as possible.
  4. So I recently picked up the new Kitty Hawk 1/35 MH-60L, along with the fantastic resin figures, and immediately thought it would look great as a diorama scene from the Battle of Mogadishu. I'm probably being a bit overambitious given I've never done a diorama, time will tell... The big issue I want to decide on before I get started building is the practicality of showing the Black Hawk in a hover, with the 2 fast-ropes on the ground. I guess the advice I'm looking for is... is the best way to do this to use something like a clear acrylic tube underneath the model as a stand? Or is there a better way my un-diorama-trained brain is not considering? I was thinking of using steel rod (wrapped in fabric) to replace the rope, and while I'm fairly sure they could support the weight, I realised that the bars which extend out from the cabin are going to flex under the weight.. and I can't think of a way to get around that issue. I've seen a couple of examples of the same idea, but in smaller scale and the sacrificing of detail around the fast-rope system which I don't think I can get away with at 1/35. Also.. can anyone recommend a good scale equivalent of fast rope? The one provided in the kit is much too short. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Hi all! I came back to modelling a while ago but have only been working on modern jets since then, and have now turned my attention to WWII tanks... but finding the model a big departure from what I'd become used to with the jets and a bit overwhelming for now, and I'm only at the planning phase.... So I'm going to ask some probably very stupid and obvious questions here, but if anyone can bear with me and answer even one or two that would be so much help! I've bought a few magazines and books to prepare, like the AK Tanker stuff, but I just have more questions now than before! I'm building a Dragon 1:35 Tiger I Early Production 'Tiki' Battle of Kursk... ideally it will be slightly battle damaged and a tad dirty, of course. 1. So I think I understand what a filter is finally, but I've read that it should be applied over a matt/flat finish and not gloss, is that true? If so, at which stage is the gloss coat applied? I think this is one of the biggest things to get my head around.. the stages of coat application seem quite different to what I've been doing with jets. I have no idea when I should be using gloss or flat and what effects can be applied over what coat. For example, should chipping be done only on a flat surface? Also... what exactly is a dot filter? Still not clear on that one.. what effect does it add? 2. As far as the chipping technique goes.. which is better (or easier for an AFV beginner), using foam to simulate the chips, using a pointed brush, using a toothpick/blade and picking the paint off or a combination? I know that there are also things like Mig's chipping fluids, but that seems a bit beyond me for now. I'm planning to use Vallejo Model Color 118 'Middlestone' as the revealed surface colour, filled in darker in the centres. 3. Which colour of primer is usually best? This one has me confused because I've seen so many different ones.. from a rust colour to black to various greys.. does it really matter? I'm not a huge fan of pre-shading on aircraft so it wasn't important to me then. 4. I haven't used pigments all that much, so in relation to using them for dirt effects on the roadwheels or exhaust rust, for example.. how are the pigments sealed in? Just with some thinner? 5. And finally... a really specific question more about the model than techniques in case anyone should happen to know, but what kind of earth colour would one expect of the Kursk region presuming it's wet? Lighter or darker soil? Thanks if you made it this far and can offer any advice, even any that isn't asked for!!
  6. I guess i was was distracted by the rather odd inclusion of the BBMF, but hey thanks for the condescension in response to a mere suggestion. You sound like a fun chap.
  7. I'm slightly shocked the Harrier hasn't been mentioned (unless it has and I'm an idiot, of course). Probably the best and most famous piece of British aviation engineering. So good the Americans are still using it even though we (rightly or wrongly) gave it up!
  8. Thank you guys! These are really great answers and very helpful indeed. Probably too late to save my F-16, haha, but I'll certainly try to put some the advice into practice for the next model! Thanks again!
  9. Hey! Can anyone with a spray booth (the small portable variety, the only type I can afford!) tell me whether it would help with removing carpet fibres/dust in the airbrushing process. I've had an awful time painting the current model due to uncontrollable hairs floating about in the upstairs of the garage. Can't get rid of the carpet and nowhere else to go... Would I be right in thinking the spray booth would suck them in before they got to the wet model surface?? Thanks!
  10. Hello! So I'm starting my second model of the year (Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ) and I'd like to try adding my own details this time round, and thought I'd start with extra cabling around the engine. Can anyone give some tips or provide a link to a good article about this topic? At the moment I'm not entirely sure on what type of material (lead wire, aluminium, electrical wiring?) to use, the best way to bend them to shape or which particular glue is best to use. I got some aluminium tubing, but it seems so difficult to actually bend into the right shape.
  11. Thank you for all the non-bird poop related advice! ;-D In the end I've plumped for Alclad's Jet Exhaust and Pale Burnt Metal possibly with some X-19 Smoke afterwards... Delayar - That's a really awesome Falcon, I can only hope mine ends up even half as good! Would you mind if I messaged you at some point for some advice on the build? Nothing too detailed, haha.
  12. Hi guys! So it's probably obvious by the question that I'm still fairly new and need a bit of advice... I'm currently planning out what I need to start on the Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ and wondering how exactly people get that wonderful metallic with a hint brass/gold colour on the nozzle petals. Are there any specific paints anyone could recommend? I've just finished a 1/32 Super Hornet and wasn't very pleased with the painting of the nozzles there (ended up putting a cover over them), so would really like to do a bit better this time round. This is the sort of colour I mean:
  13. I found a pretty good deal on all 3 Tamiya polishing compounds plus the applicator cloths for about £27 on ebay. Coming from Hong Kong though, so will probably take a few weeks to arrive!
  14. Thank you @Tony Oliver ! I'm going to order some of the micromesh and see how that goes. I've never used polishing compounds before though. Did a bit of Googling on it... is there any specific colour of compound you would use for clear parts?
  15. Sadly I have been dipping it, even a few times, but to no avail... A little bit nervous about sanding it all back again to try to eliminate the scratches, but I guess I might have to. I'll let you know how I get on!
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