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LooseSeal

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  1. Hey everyone. Has anyone by chance used VMS Sand and Ballast Freeze, or something similar, and ended up with the results I have below? In hindsight, I should just used PVA, given that the VMS stuff didn't even really hold anything own very well. But these shiny/dark patches are just a nightmare... I've tried painting over them, spraying them with a matt varnish, but I just can't blend them or subdue them. They're sort of ruining the entire diorama base at this point...
  2. Hmm, the 9-13 variant seems to be out of stock now. Their prices are also veeery high. The ebay option is cheaper, even if it has a longer delivery time. Unfortunately, for anyone wanting to do a Ukrainian 'digital' Fulcrum, the DN Models mask set is going to be practically impossible to find for a while. A statement on their website says they won't make any more until the war is over, out of respect. Which I find disarmingly honourable for the 21st century!
  3. Hey, have you managed to find this kit for sale anywhere? I've been looking for a while. The only one I can find at a reasonable price is on a Chinese eBay store and I'm not sure whether to trust it or not.
  4. Thanks Jari! Although this is now interesting because someone on another forum linked me the following: I'm starting to think there are different variants, each with different colours. I'm also wondering if 'blue' might mean 'training' in some sense, as other weapons are marked blue when inert or for training purposes. So, I now have photos of white, blue, metallic, and potentially a red. Haha.
  5. Hey guys, Bit of a specific question - for the life of me I cannot find a photo of an AN/ALE-39 flare/chaff dispenser when it is fully loaded. I'm working on the Academy AH-1Z and just not sure what colour to do the 'holes' where the cartridges are placed. I've seen one kit built which coloured the holes in a reddish/orange. But I haven't seen any evidence of this for the AN/ALE-39. I don't really want to paint them that colour if it's totally wrong, although it would be nice as it adds a bit of contrast to the general grey-ness. Anyone know what colour they would be? The flares in particular, not so concerned with chaff cartridge colours. This is the current state of play, complete with empty 'holes' so you can see what I mean:
  6. Wow. This might be the best Phantom I've seen. The weathering is inspiring.
  7. Hey guys! Would anyone who has the kit and isn't building the 'S for Sugar' markings mind sending me the decal for the big starboard 'S'? More than happy to pay for it and pay for postage, of course. I *might* have put a big finger on mine while it was wet during the maneuvering of this rather large beast and it may or may not have ended up looking like tagliatelle stuck to my fingertip... If anyone can help out, give me a message! Thanks!
  8. I'd be worried about what something that strong could do to the clear parts. Everything was thinned was Levelling Thinner. I'd use that if it weren't so darn expensive and hard to find for someone living in NI. To be honest Ade, I hadn't considered just lightly sanding down and painting over the top of it. Mr Surfacer is extremely thin so I guess another layer of it as primer wouldn't hurt? As for the paint, I was laying it down rather thinly anyway - I spent the best part of a week doing detailed pre-shading using no less than 10 different colours. You can imagine why I'm rather annoyed about having to do it all over again! But - I'd rather do it all over again and have something I'm proud of than ever have to look at the toy-like finish I'm currently faced with. I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and see how it turns out! Thanks for the suggestions guys
  9. So I've seen and watched plenty of descriptions online of how to strip paint off models. But invariably, these examples involve plopping a small model or piece into a container and letting it steep. My predicament is this - I utterly messed up the painting on a 1/48 Lancaster. I also made the mistake of attaching the wings. The Dark Earth colour was completely wrong (thanks AK 'Real' Colors! But god only knows why I continued using it...), I covered up all my underside shading and ultimately spilled paint out of the airbrush onto the wing and stripped a big circle off it. That was the last straw... I really don't want to scrap this model, because the kit is great (HK), I was really happy with the interior, and I think I could do a lot better on the outside. But I can't figure out how to take the paint/primer off without causing an absolute mess to the canopy, windows or interior? Would Tamiya Paint Remover work or do products like that that also need the pieces to be steeped prior to scrubbing? Would be really grateful for any suggestions on this! Particularly on products which might do the job. Oh, and I've used acrylics (AK, Aqueous and Tamiya) over a Mr Surfacer primer. Now off to my Vulcan build and inevitably mess that up!
  10. Just resurrecting this thread to ask people have got the kit - is there anything wrong with your canopy? Mine had a slight fracture running down where the pilot would look out of, not a huge one but a bit irritating given its prominent position. I asked for a replacement, which arrived today.... and behold the exact same fracture in the exact same place. So I'm wondering if this is a manufacturing issue and they're all the same, or if I should ask for yet another replacement.
  11. Absolutely recommend it It's gone together so well for me.
  12. Thanks for the link Ray. It was much as I expected... I think I'll end up painting the chips on myself. I believe I tried to paint a model in sections once before, and the sections all ended up looking subtly different from each other due to me being unable to replicate my technique from one day to the next Thanks for the confirmation of my fears though I'll get on with starting the final painting!
  13. So I've done 'hairspray' chipping (using Ammo products) lots before, but always applying it then painting and immediately chipping all very quickly. However, I'm building the HK Lancaster and was going to layer it all in dull aluminium first (much like in this excellent build - https://www.kfs-miniatures.com/1-48-avro-lancaster-b-mk-i-hk-models-budowa-cz-2/) and proceed to chip back to it after all the painting/post-shading is done. But I'm wondering... will that layer of chipping fluid still actually be there and active after all the pre-shading, base coating and post-shading is done, potentially a week or more later? Particularly if I'm using, for example, Blu tack to demarcate the camo lines... would that lift up the chipping fluid? Curious if anyone knows about this or has experience doing it... I could always just chip with a brush after painting, but I do like using chipping fluid! Thanks!
  14. Hmm.. he used the 1200 Mr Surfacer instead, perhaps I'll try a less coarse one then, especially as it's a smaller scale. Thanks for the link! I'm going to do one wing lower wing surface first and see how it looks. At least with Mr Surfacer you can just wipe it off with alcohol thinner if it doesn't work.
  15. Hi guys, I'm just about to start on the HK Models 1/48 Lancaster and could use the expertise of those much more experienced than I! While the kit is absolutely superb in its detail, the one thing I find lacking is the distinctive 'oil-canning' of the panels. So, I was wondering about how to recreate this and was thinking of using Mr Surfacer 500 to raise some panels, and the engraving tool on my Dremel to recess a smaller number. Does that seem like something that could work? Has anyone attempted something similar? Or am I potentially just going to waste many hours on something that may look a little silly in the end? As if I've never done that with a model before... Any feedback on the idea welcome, or alternative suggestions! Thanks!
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