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dustcollector

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  1. Wow! Thank You so much for reposting this build, Codger! Spent a week reading through. What an adventure! I greatly admire your skills, patience and dedication put down to complete this model. So nice to see modifications work out. A true inspiration! Terje
  2. Nice project! Looking forward to see how this progess. The model seems in quite good shape.
  3. Hello all! Summer is happening. Not much building gong on for my part. Much of the time on the workbench has been spent prepping parts. Some progress has been made but a lot more to do. Here are some pictures. And thats about it really. Thanks for looking. Comments and suggestions are very much welcome. Terje
  4. Amazing work your doing here. Very helpfull and inspiring! Thanks for sharing!
  5. Just a quick question. The mesh is glued to the carburetor and its a bit damaged. So I want ro remove it to further clean and detail the carburetor. But before ruining, I dont think I will be able to remove the mesh without destroying it, I want to ask you guys how hard it is to make a new mesh? I think I have the right mesh material but have to form it into a half sphere kind of shape...
  6. Gaskets thanks, larchiefeng! My head is not that bad, I think. Im trying for the intake and exhaust manifolds sit tight and straight while the head rests gently on the mototblock. Have been filing the small knobs so they fit into the cylinderhead. But you are right. More flat sanding on the head is required. MMC sells lots of nice stuff, Ihave recently made an order for some ”ahem” essensial parts. Not much but hopefully will make a difference. Have a feeling its not the last order. Will try with my skills make the parts I need. If thats not good enough I guess I will have to buy what I need.
  7. So how many days left? Ha! Had to take a break for the wheels, pretty tiersome. Felt the urge make some progress i.e. to put paint on something, so I started woriking on the engine. Screwpost were cracked and bent so I decided to cut and strengthen the post with styrene tubes. The fillament takes time to settle so I will drill new holes at a later point. I think this fix will work. Next up were the cylinder head with nasty sparks. Instead og trying to fix the plugs I decided to drill the holes out from the bottom. Have to make plugs anyway and this will make attachment easier. And ofcourse, theres now holes from sparks to pistons so the chance of this engine running is not so small after all. Haha. More filing, cleaning and prepping of parts. There are flash, mould marks and ofcoruse nothing is straight. Just to make everything line up is no small task. The cyling block is straight, the head is warpt only good on one side at a time. A litte more filing an fitting and it will work. I hope. Theres also ajusting the waterpumt, a bit up, the kompressor(?), 2 mm left maybe 1mm up, attach the two manifold pieces together. And then I can dive into small detail like cables, nuts, fittings and the thin thing that goes between metal parts in an engine to prevent leaks........forgot the word. Anyway great fun! The «paintscheme» is not final, Im testing different paints, I want an magnesium engine color but its difficult to find the right one. The one thats on in the picture is some sort of gunmetal gray, quite chromy, but the effect wears away with the handling of the piece. Could lead to a nice patina. The auxilary stuff like the waterpump, compressor, manifold I will back with gloss black and silver or alu on top. Carburetur will be black I think.What do you think? Anyways althoug there are som tiresome parts I am enjoying this build. Thanks for looking Terje
  8. Hey Endeavor! Its a slow build there is no chance being late for anything. Luckily there is no glue involved with the wheels, so when I m not breaking screws they come quite easily apart. I will go over the rings and make sure they sit as flush as possible before assembling the wheel again. Have to sort the spokes first. Thanks!
  9. I managed to get the tires of wrenching the of using a flat screwdriver and tweezers(with a butt end). Will obviously have to try the heating merhod when mounting the tires again. Have not decided on what colourbthe wheels will have so the tires have to stay off for a while. Thanks
  10. Thanks for the replies and help! Your well of information and knowledge gave me lots to think about. So much infact I abandoned the whole project. No just kidding:) Luckily I also have The Paul Koo Dvd, which is great help. Since life is happening at the excactly same time as me building this, not much has happened the last week, but last night I started working the wheels. If they are difficult to put together, I can tell you they are a literal pain to dissassemble. I really did not know where to start, removing the tire first seem like a bad idea considering how loose the spokes and the hub were. Using any force would have started a small spoke explotion, I thougt. Instead I started pushing the hub trough the wheel with the spokes slowly getting released from the wheel and the hub. It seemed to work fine, my thumb on the hub were almost at the stage where al the spokes were about to be released, and as I tried to change position with my thumb lots of spokes hung up on the thumb penetrating the skin and made a perfect Thumb Trap. Quite painful and scary. I could not retract my thumb so I had no other choice than to push the whole thing through spreading spokes and theese tiny little spokeholders all over my workplace. Its a good thing my dask at the time were I good order so the cleanup and sorting went well. Afther that I found wheels were quite robust so I manhandeled the tires off, so I could unscrew the wheel properly. I had to heat every screw before unscrewing othervise I would have broken all of them. I managed to get away with 5 broke screws for the whees. Which need to be drilled out, cleaned and a new hole has to be made. The hub also needed heat to be released. That is a major issue with the whole model. There are soo many broken screws and screw holes I need to fix those before I start the assembly. I have a plan, although I do not know if it is going to work. On the shallow screw holes I will make a plasticweld mixture and just fill the holes, then drill out a new hole. On the longer screwfittings I will replace with styrene rod where i can. How does this sound? If there is a standard way to fix this pleas let me know. Or if you have better ideas I will listen. Thanks for reading. Thats all for today. Here are some pictures.
  11. Just to show the condition of this car. The engine also has problems. Its only running on 7 cylinders. Ha!
  12. Template!! Spot on! I wonder how very useful words can disapear just like that. Interesting to read about your plans. They resemble a lot with with what I want to accomplish with this build. The more I study pictures (on google) the more I see needs to be done/modified. There are so many details that could be added. And where to stop? For this build I need to look at what I have. Get to know the kit, how the parts are attached and how they respond to glue/heat/sanding/sawing. The easy basic stuff. Get the stance and the body to sit right. From experience I often spend more time fixing my own mistakes than actually make progress. This time I’ll have to fix someone elses mistakes which is better for the self image. Ahem. That could be the «famous last words» knock-on-wood. From the decals i found the chassis number 2111046. Does every pocher Alfa have this chassis number? Is the any info about this car in Simon Moores book? From google I found the car, it looked to me pretty much restored, but I have not dived into the abyss just yet. From what I have found not many Monzas were built, many were crashed, others restored. Old black and white photos are great but the often lack in detail. Contemporary photos reveal loads of details but how do we know if the cars in the new pictures are the same as the original cars, if you know what I mean? The ideal would be to build a «replica» of the car as it was back then, but with the material I have found I dont know if that is possible. Or maybe there is just too much info right now. Anyway it good fun:) Again lots of words. Not much sanding:) Thanks again for the warm welcome. Lots of help and ideas. Im glad Im here. Terje
  13. Thank you for the reply! There are so many great builders on here, yourself amongst them. Its a shame the pictures in your Sendaca build is gone. I started reading but fell off its not the same without pictures. My back gets a bit humid thinking about everything I cant do. Yet:) But its great fun reading bulid threads. It shows me everyhing is possible! Hey! That is a very kind offer, thanks! The two Alfas I bought are very much complete, there were even some extra parts in the deal. Extra firewall and dash board with dials and cables and a rather nice metal inlet gasoline manifold(?). Its from Scaledetails and it show the previous builder had some ambitions for the car. Which is nice. There is also a alu-floor «transkit» that consist of one piece of alu-plate 1.5mm and a A4 paper with the parts drawn up. There should be a word here but I cant remember. I might need extra spokes to make 8 wheels but for now I know I can make 4. What is missing are the 4 outer breakdrumms for one car, but I have my eyes glued to ebay and hopefully they will turn up at some point. Ok enough rabble now. I’ll definantly check out your Mercedes build. Thanks for the headsup. Terje
  14. Haha! Almost sad to clean it. Untouched, unrestored barnfind cars like this fetch good prices at auctions don´t they? Well, it had to be done. Thanks Roy vd. M! Have to admit it´s a bit frustrating knowing this nice model will never move. Imagine racing these beauties!! Some serious modification is needed, all plastic in the chassis must be switched for steel/alu and all links and steering assembly must be strengthened. You need a drivetrain, transmission, motor, servos and hide everything so the model will look excactly like the 1:1 car. What a transkit that would be!! In my head I can see it clearly, but to get MY hands and fingers to execute is just a dream. The Rc4wd yota axle is close to the same width as the stock axle so that´s a start. haha.
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