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Never a Pro

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Everything posted by Never a Pro

  1. try this fellow modeller, he did the green one, he has a pic with unused golden decals. good luck, and thanks all for the compliments
  2. Hi, Managed to squish a couple hours to trim the rest of the pieces. I was planning to replace wing struts and undercarriage with styrene rods, but after some filing, I thing I manage to shape them properly. This PLA plastic is actually very strong and flexible, so I think it will work, specially since the wings will not be supported on the struts. Anyway, I am just painting everything yellow so I can keep experimenting with clear orange. I like a lot that color, but I still don't know how to apply it properly. This is the perfect kit for that. Propeller kindly donated by a stashed Eduard Fokker D VII.
  3. Hi, I am giving up Ebay, I am glad that I stashed all I wanted in 2020, because that site is unusable now. The prices in shipping are a joke, as everyone is trying to avoid Ebay fees. 50 USD for shipping? Yeah right. I would rather print one. I was looking at a Eduard 1/48 DFW T.28 Floh, this guy: but it is just not worth it. For the joke, I checked if someone have it as a model, and here it is: So, I downloaded the pieces, and used a Ultimaker 2+ Connect printer I have access to. Happy with my first piece, but I realised that the orientation was not the best. Back to the printer, and this time printing it on a way that the fuselage curves are one in the xy-axis, not in the z-axis which will always be "pixelated" Much better now. Also, since the Floh pictures I see do not have exhaust pipes, I decided to print two "port" pieces, one mirrored so I can do my own exhaust holes. The rest of the pieces were mashed together on a single session. I am not sure if I will use the 3D printed struts, but at least they are useful for measurements. The wing was also an experiment, to see how the rib indents would print out. Yeah, it looks terrible. Printing the wings with the leading edge down. They look thin, strong and retain the airfoil curve. The only con is that they do not have the rib indentations, but that is not a big deal. Adding a tail for the second prototype using sprue sheet. This is going to be a quick kit only to test the 3D printing capabilities. So far I am enjoying a lot, this kit looks doable in an acceptable way, although I will skip most of the cockpit details. Plastic is harder and more annoying to work with (and probably glue), but that also comes with the benefits of thinner pieces.
  4. Hello. I haven't done much work on the Triplane, actually working more on upcoming projects that I think I will begin now to help flush the Triplane work that I am trying to avoid. I am scratch-building the Roterham pump, using stretched sprue and threading the smallest hole ever. I am amazed how it worked. I will paint it in metal tones and attach a black wire and braces when I am done. I was not happy with the propeller hub, so I decided to borrow the Camel one, and user a steel tube to get a prober hub center Now, for some reasons I didn't quite understand, while brushing clear orange thinned with X-20A on top of a wooden deck base (also Tamiya acrylic), I removed the wooden deck, and all went mixed into a slush that I just tried to control. Now, in the end it still looks wood-ish (I will try some grains with oil paint), but I am not happy as I didn't know what happened. I want to do the same with the wing structures, but now I am afraid I need to coat it before, but unsure if it will make a similar paint salad. Anyone has a better understanding about tamiya clear paints and how they work, I would appreciate.
  5. Can I piggyback on this thread? I was wondering how much complicated this t is to 3D print the fuselage of a dhw flow for a 1/48 scratch build plane my idea was either to ask someone who is good at 3D printing and modeling in 3D software, or it is easier to make a bunch of sections and glue them together and shape the thing.
  6. Yeah, that tailplane adjustment was not great. I redid it, much better now
  7. Thanks for the kind words. I added a pair of double hooks on each side so I have a place to attach the double wing cables. I used sprue glue to attach it. I also added a hole for the ammo rounds. I filed the tail end so I could scratch build a tailplane adjustment mechanism. I made the cilynder out of some rods I have. I glued to the fuselage so it has a strong bond, I need it for the tail skid. there is a belt I made with metal part, but I don't think that would work. The idea was better than the execution. There is also a lot of space, I will try to trim it a little. Execution was not great, but better than before. Now for masking for a layer of white, then some pre-shading.
  8. works now, company wi-fi… great work, I love the Ho-229, I have two 1/48 in my stash (a Dragon and a Zoukei-Mura) Be aware that the landing gear doors on both kits are quite different, and I trust more the Zoukei Mura, so the v3 has two big doors instead of 3 doors.
  9. something wrong with embedding pictures? I can not see any of them
  10. A WWI kit in resin? wow, this is going to be fun
  11. Hi guys, I am finally done with the cockpit. I followed the great Wingnuts Wings instructions as a template for cable wiring. I used black and grey stretched sprue for the cables. They don't look that tight and aligned, but they will be hidden. I would definitely do it better if they would be visible. I get that they do not make pictures nicer. Also, this is almost too tiny for me. I had a lot of problems fitting the seat on the cage, and I struggle to get steady hands for this kind of detail. I like the challenge, but it is quite time consuming. I added only 4 cable wires on the floor, and I am finally relieved in seeing that it's done and I can close the fuselage. I am really loving sprue glue, it is now my go-to product for seam filling, and also to glue photo-etch parts. I really hate seams, but luckily, this kit is very small. Fitting is not terrible, but it has its age. I am adding two pieces of sprue to the end of the middle wings, so that the fuselage struct is not visible. Also, the leading edge holes for the wing cables are now closed with sprue glue. Now I will work on the tail section, I will have to cut it out so I can scratch build a stabilizer elevator.
  12. it’s in that phase where we are looking the light at the end of the tunnel! Looking great, eager to see more
  13. Nice build. I am eyeballing the 1:48 that is going to be released. One question, are the roundels purely from decals? I see the blue shades are a little inconsistent, were the decals ok?
  14. I saw on scalemates that there will be a Taube edition, along with the Heavy Retro editions that Eduard are starting. Any info on that? I didn’t found anything about that on their January catalog. I have the original kit from Flashback, I was thinking of starting it soon, that will make me probably wait to see what resin / photo etch parts they may make.
  15. I am now done with wood painting. I found out that a base of wooden deck, plus paintbrushing clear orange makes up for a believable wood color. The clear orange is very interesting, it is glossy and quite different from the XF colors. I really like how the prop looks like. The wing stucts will be yellow, so I can see what that color does with a yellow base. I will thin it, though. the original prop cube was ok, but it could be better. Since the Eduard Camel photo etch comes with two, I will use the left one (painted with Aluminum Metal) I messed up the film, so I will now use some Camel decals. The instrument panel looks pretty decent live, but this phone pictures are not that great. I am trying to fix the landing gear, as the OOB one is not really accurate. I am adding some stubs so I can wrap some "wire" (stretched sprue) to mimic the elastic used as shock absorber. Here is a pump, and the pilot seat (X-1 Black, plus some weathering), with a cushion that it is actually not bad. This is how the shock absorber ended to be. It worked OK. I am still struggling with finishing the cockpit, I really want to close the fuselage soon, but there is still a lot of prep work around. I know this is a long project.
  16. Is it just me, but I get really annoyed when they talk about feathering the props, yet I haven’t see one single prop properly feathered, along with the completely irrealistic battle damage that makes no sense…?
  17. Hi, I am still fixing everything before painting. I was curious if I can make this gunsight with sprue glue: The god thing is that I do not have to glue the film to the metal part, I let the sprue glue to do the bond. the landing gear requires a lot of work. The main bar does not fit the structs gap, also, it needed to be trimmed a lot so it has that skewed look. Since I had to make the holes and the whole thing is kind of fragile, nothing better than using the fuselage for alignment. I am now improving the cockpit, next step is to try and make a believable wood pattern in all wood parts.
  18. I finally got some time and courage to do the extra cowling vent with a dremel, it is okay-ish. I am also marking the aileron cable inspection windows. The dark grey sprue is from the Sopwith Camel, which is amazingly detailed (we can see the pulley and the cables). The window frames will come from this photo etch. I am using it as a template. I am gluing the fabric stitches to the starboard side of the airplane. I hate using super-glue, it is just too fast for me and I like to take time to adjust, so I am instead trying a different approach: a bigger hole filled with sprue glue. I am very happy with the results, and the bonding is quite strong. Also spent a lot of time drilling the necessary holes for all the required rigging, wiring, lanfing gear structures, engin air intakes, etc.
  19. Yeah, this will go slowly. I will take my time. I have marked the positions for the aileron cable inspections on the windows, I think I will just scrub, paint it wood, and cover with a thick coat of clear I opened a big gun inspection window on the tarboard side. The plastic is quite thick, so it is easy to insert a transparent sprue square in it. the quality difference that 25 years do. The light gray wheels are from the Eduard 1996 triplane, the dark gray wheels are from the Eduard 2021 Camel. I will "borrow" them, as the Camel comes with 2 sets Same with the engine, it is a huge leap in detail. The 2021 Camel detail is so good, that I think the plastic piece with the valve rods do a better job then the photo-etch (so it really look like pipes), and no need to make them from metal wire. Now, for the cowling, I like the rivet ring that the Camel cowlings have, but their vents are a little different. So, on top, we have the Camel and the Triplane cowlings. On the bottom, the combination between those two. I am using that mix of glue and sprue as putty. It works great, but it shrinks a little, so it needs some reinforcement to keep the shape. The challenge is to file it and smoothen the cowl without damaging the rivet ring. My idea is to use my thumb fingernail as a "mask" to protect while sanding the cowl. It was an ambitious idea, but I may pull it off. Now, I have to spend some time re-drilling all holes for all pieces, and future rigging.
  20. A lot of research was made, let me see what I kind of found out (as a reference for anyone who will want to do this airplane): - Triplanes come in PC12, not PC10 - They come with wither zero gun window inspection, one small silver gun window inspection, one large gun window inspection, or two (one for each side). In the case of one window inspection, it is on the starboard side. - Not clear if there is Triplanes with only one aileron cable inspection windows in the lower window. The one in the RAF museum has 2, so I will do that. Total of 7 windows: 3 in the upper wing, 4 in both lower wings. I will do a generic triplane, and I will save Collinshaw's colors for the Sopwith Camel I got (the Eduard 82171 kit). Collinshaw's tripe needs 2 machine guns, this kit comes with one. I could scratchbuild one, plus adapt the fuselage, but I don't want to. Also, Collinshaw's tripe does not have the Roterham fuel pump, and I want to add it. I can't give enough credit to Eduard and the amazing work they did with the Camel retooling. The Camel 82171 kit comes with parts for every Camel version, so I can "salvage" the Clerget engine, as the Camel BR.I uses the Bentley engine. I can also get some instrument panel decals and prop cubes from there, maybe an extra pair of wheels, as this 2021 kit has way better quality and details (as expected). Also, I have one question: I want to try to do a "turned" engine, by coating it with white, then do the circle turns with a pencil, then coat it with AK extreme metal aluminium, as I found that metal color to be good for thin layers. Would that be a good approach?
  21. Hello, I will start a build of this gem, a 1996 Eduard 1/48 Sopwith Triplane. Got it from a connection during the pandemic. With my luck, Eduard will retool it and sell a Profipack version after I finish this one, on half the price I paid for this one (without shipping and custom fees). At least it will have some people interested in this amazing plane. I went to London in April, and I manage to visit the RAF museum and take a good look at the one of the only two surviving Triplanes, and document it a little. This will be a Collinshaw's "Black Maria", by the way. The kit itself is very simple with two sprues, details are average, decals are impeccable. Comes with a photo etch, but not as detailed as the profipack version, so I bought a photo etch detail that is intimidatingly damn small. Now, this will be a very slow build, as I do not have much time left, and I want to make justice to this gem, so I do not want to rush things. Let's see how this will turn out, wish me luck.
  22. Hello again, The build is done. Thank you a lot for your attention, help and encouragement. Here is the video of the build. I will post some pictures of the finished build on the other topic. Cheers.
  23. Now for a teaser... I enjoyed more the 1 hour spent doing this stool than the rest of the kit (except cockpit seat and instrument panel).
  24. Ok, this plane is almost finished, but it has me weared down, mostly because of this primer coat. While it is a shade that is away from a yucky green that I didn't want, this is a mix of Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green with Mr Hobby Metal Color Aluminium. Yes, acrylic and lacquer, together with Mr Color Levelling thinner. This is all a first to me. It kind of works, and it sticks a little more than the metal color only, but it is still very scratchable and peel-able, so all the masking I was thinking of doing it was scrapped. These are gun holes from leftover decals made with a circular cutter. You can make it really thin, and while the blade is sharp, it does the work. I was thinking of adding a coat, but I don't really have much trust on me getting a satin coat, and somehow could dull the primer shine which is not bad, I decided to add decals and that's it. Yes, they will be shiny and ugly, but I am still in the market for a varnish that doesn't ruin metal shines. The decals are thick and require micro sol to conform. Since I have a lacquer paint without a coat, I can't use panel liner. Anyway, I am done with the kit, don't want to risk anything more at this moment. A little tip: start with the sides, then middle, this way you can do the spacing easily.
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