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dnl42

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About dnl42

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.

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  1. Nice work! And quite the good looking aircraft, just like it's older sister, the XB-70!
  2. Here are the 15in 60-spoke wheels you are looking for. The DB4 had the 2-eared knock-offs. Edit: Oh, never mind. You wrote tyres, I read wheels.
  3. @Hewy and @Robert Stuart, thanks! I'm quite happy with the color. I had used Alclad Exhaust Manifold for a model of the PZL P.11c, which mounted the same engine, but it seemed quite dark. Judging by various photos, particularly a contemporaneous photo of my specific subject, I think I got the right shade. I finished the spats. The first thing I noticed when looking at photos, and especially the Wylam plans, was the Gavia/Eduard kit positioned the wheel in the in-flight position, not with the strut compressed. Here are the relevant details from the Wylam plan. Elsewhere, the plan indicates the strut compression is 5 in. Both the Gavia plastic wheels and Eduard resin wheels use the same mounting method, a stub axle attached to the wheel fitting into a hole in the outer spat half. A 0.0325in stud was epoxied in place above the kit position. A vee slot in the top of the wheel allows the wheel to be painted off-model and attached during final assembly. The original position is on the left while the modified position is on the right. I used Gavia's plastic wheel to test the mounting. The fit of the spats halves was very crude. Careful filing got them more or less aligned. The landing light reflectors were the next problem. Eduard oddly suggested the light reflectors were to be installed from the outside. Odd, because that is entirely inconsistent with the part shapes. I ended up chiseling the spat interior to get a reasonable placement from the inside. I also used Evergreen 0.035in plastic rod to fill in the muzzle hole from the spat-mounted MG, Quite a lot of filling and filing finished the spats off. I'm happy with the revised wheel position.. Edit: those dimples at the top of the spats are for the struts. Good thing I didn't fill them in...
  4. Interesting. In the US Merchant Marine, each 15 fathom length is called a "shot".
  5. Ah, that looks lovely! In it's gangly way... A masterful job.
  6. @Lawzer, indeed there is progress! I opted to forego the Vector part for this model and continue with the Gavia/Eduard engine. Here's the exhaust ring, exhaust pipe, and partially completed the cowling. The exhaust ring is just sitting atop the cowling at this point. The exhaust pipe is from the CMK set. It was most consistent with the photos, with its down-turned tip. As to be expected, there are no locators on any of these parts, so care was needed to get the proper alignment of the exhaust ring to the cowling and then the pipe to the ring. Once the exhaust pipe was attached to the exhaust ring, filling and filing were needed to fair the front of the exhaust pipe to the ring. Also shown in the photo is Edward's bottom-of-cowling air inlet only. Sadly, my subject, JR-P used a different inlet shape, so that is now removed. To Eduard's credit, many period photos and extant Lysanders do show the air inlet they provided in PE form. Eduard claimed the exhaust ring was to be painted with Mr Color MC219, metallic brass. That's not right! I used Alclad Paile Burnt Metal as a base color--it does have a brassy sheen--and then toned it down with Alclad Exhaust Manifold. It doesn't show well in the photos, but I'm happy with the uneveness of the cowl ring coloring. I drilled out the Ediard resin air inlets a little more and trimmed the rear to correctly align them. I finally added various details using plastic rod and sheet, lead wire, and brass rod. The kit provided 5 parts for the prop, the front hub, rear hub, and blades. A template from some light cardboard ensured blade alignment. Remaining construction includes finishing the cowling, building the landing gear, and the external fuel tank mounts.
  7. Nicely done! What color did you use for the exhaust ring?
  8. First off, OF COURSE you got hooked! This is a fabulous hobby!!! The underlining may have been cause by accidentally hitting the underline button in the posting tool bar. There are also bold, italic, strike-out, and other font mangling buttons... Some putties were suggested above. My two favorites are Tamiya Putty and Vallejo Plastic Putty. Both are available in hobby shops or online, including Amazon. I use either depending on the circumstances. Let's talk about Vallejo first. If you look carefully at the link, you'll see that the Vallejo putty has a thin applicator tip. This allows you to get the putty in rather tight spaces. Since it's water soluble, you can use a wet cotton bud or even your wet finger to shape the putty surface. If you're careful, you can shape the putty surface so it doesn't need any further work before you prime and paint it. I'll use Tamiya putty where the to-be-puttied spot is more accessible. Before I attempt to sand the putty, though, I'll shape it using a cotton bud dipped in Mr Thinner. I've had enough practice that I can get the putty surface quite close to final. I'll use Swiss Pattern needle files (4- and 6-cut) to smooth the putty surface on flat or convex surfaces.. Abrasive paper with a sanding block, or abrasive sticks, such as you can find in a drug store's nail care aisle, also do a fine job. BTW, those nail buffing sticks are really useful things to have! I'll use abrasive sponges for concave surfaces. Mr Thinner is my paint remover of choice for lacquer or enamel paints. Apply with cotton makeup pads or cotton buds. It will remove the paint without damaging the plastic. Whatever you do, DO NOT use regular hardware store cellulose (lacquer) thinner--it will melt the plastic!! Isopropyl alcohol will remove some acrylic paints like Vallejo, Gaming Workshop, and others. Use the same way as I described for Mr Thinner. Soaking the part in Coca Cola (yes, that stuff) can remove paint over the course of a few of days. Automotive brake fluid and lye-based oven cleaners also work, but do some research before you try these last two solvents. Here's some info on airbrushing.
  9. Nice work! It really does capture that utilitarian appearance of the prototype!
  10. Ah, the beauty of 3D modeling! They specifically cited the reasons: Even if this doesn't find all errors an actual injection molded test shot would find, this would allow errors to be identified and corrected before actually committing to that more expensive hard tooling. I have various vector drawings--2D models if you will--that I've used to cut masks and even some plastic parts. I can cut the pattern at any size.
  11. That indeed does happen, but not at a rate that would significantly alter the statistics being sought
  12. FWIW, here's a photo showing sub-assemblies ready to paint. I chose the sub-assemblies based on what made sense to mask and paint for the particular color scheme. Again, some people prefer to paint parts and then assemble. I know of a very prolific builder, who's not retired, and he paints everything before assembly, touching up as needed. Bottom line, you're building it, see what makes sense to you!
  13. Welcome aboard! I don't have that Revell kit, but it looks a lot like diving in the deep end of the pool! I am building the Eduard 1/48 Lysander, for the D-Day 75th Anniversary GB, so you can see what it's like--and that would be diving in the deep end for a 2nd kit. A 1:12 scale model of the Storch or Lysander? Aeromodeller ran some contemporaneous articles back in 41 and 42 on Lysander models, including a 1:12 rubber-powered plan that is available on the Interwebs. Check https://rclibrary.co.uk/index.asp for more info. That's a matter of choice. So do on-sprue, others off. I always do off-sprue so I can trim and dry-fit the part before painting. Dry fitting means to assemble various bits without glue to make sure it really fits well. Never ever assume it will just fit together as-is. Always trim the sprue from the parts. Don't cut too close to the part or you risk damaging it.Get yourself some nail filing sticks to start with, as well as 400 and finer grit abrasive sheets. Some "sprue nippers" are quite useful. I build paintable sub-assemblies. For most aircraft, building and painting the cockpit is first. Followed by assembly of the airframe, which is then painted as a full assembly, with adequate masking of the cockpit and/or canopy/canopies. For the Lysander, I'll paint the fuselage, wings, and horizontal stablizers are separate units because that will work well for me. Most paints should be thinned before painting with a brush. Some paints, like lacquers, shouldn't be brush painted because the dry too fast. Mix paint and thinner in a little cup and then paint. This is a somewhat lost art form, so others will have to help more. I do! Various primer rattle-cans are available that work quite well. Tamiya is a great choice, but there are others too. Dish washing soap does fine here. Indeed!! Using an airbrush is yet another art.
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