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About dnl42

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.

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  1. Oh, those are good shots, especially with the Comet 1 included.
  2. Now that's a build to aspire to!
  3. I am indeed soldiering on, @Hewy! The canopy is the last of the fabrication efforts. Only final assembly remains after it's done.
  4. Solvaset finally did the job with the decals. Microscale Industries Micro Flat was then applied and the wheels attached. Next up is that spinner. It was a fairly good representation of one style of Lysander spinner, just not the right style for this aircraft. I fashioned the new part of the spinner from 3/8in Evergreeen tube. I first trued up a section of tubing and cut a ring Next I marked the centers of the blades at 120deg intervals, cut crude notches with a sprue cutter, and filed the notches to shape with a round needle file. Some work with an equaling file and abrasive pads faired the new ring to the spinner front. A primer coat with Mr Surfacer revealed some gaps in need of filling. CA did the trick. Another round of Mr Surfacer was followed by the underside color. Et voilĂ ! A new spinner. I have the Part canopy PE frames cut and formed. The clear sheet to the upper right is for the side panels. For unknown reasons, Part only provided paper patterns for the upper and rear cockpit canopy segments. I'll use 5 mil Evergreen sheet for those parts.
  5. That's coming along nicely! It did according to the Paul Matt 3-views on this page. This Wikimedia photo confirms that; but others don't.
  6. Perhaps identify the paint brands of interest to avoid uninteresting replies...which may well include this one. A couple of rows in such a table, in order of my preference Mr Color, Mr Surfacerr, &etc.: Mr Color Leveling Thinner Colourcoats: Mr Color Leveling Thinner Humbrol: Humbrol thinner Tamiya: Tamiya thinner Microscale Industries Micro Flat, Micro Satin: Water The Army Painter Warpaints: Water (I only use this for brush painting small details, and yes, I do thin for brush painting) I use hardware store lacquer (cellulose) thinner for cleaning my airbrush. Don't even think about using hardware store lacquer (cellulose) thinner to clean your airbrush after spraying Vallejo. Never. Don't do it. Turns into a nasty gel. One of several reasons I resoundingly rejected Vallejo paints. To be fair, others love the stuff. In case you're looking for paint suggestions, I find Mr Color to be an outstanding paint. When applied properly, it produces an amazingly smooth and thin coat. HTH -- dnl
  7. dnl42

    I hate photo etch

    Do try this!!! Master makes a MiG-21MF pitot with DUA's that also has interlocking construction. That made all the difference to me as I had literally been struggling for DAYS trying to build the part that Academy provided.
  8. It makes sense if your look at an architect's scale. This notation is not uncommon in wooden model ships. Having written that, I greatly prefer 1/48.
  9. I cannot provide any authoritative info except to note that Amodel's 1/144 kit appears to agree, at least in principle. HTH -- dnl
  10. Computers operating above sea level are measurably impacted by the increased cosmic ray flux density @Beardie describes above. A computer operating at an elevation of 5km is more than 10 times more likely to experience a certain class of error than at sea level.
  11. I saw They Shall Not Grow Old on a flight last week. The movie isn't suitable for a 13 year old, but the trailers are OK. They show some simpler trenches, a lot less structure, literally a dug trench, some bits of wood structure, and water, a lot of water, at the bottom. Perhaps some paper figures standing ankle deep.
  12. Thanks for moving this!!! As for progress, I'm still working on getting the decals to snug down. I usually use Microscale Industries Micro Set and Micro Sol, but the Blackbird Models' decals weren't impressed. Solvaset appears to be working, but I'm trying to go light on it as I've suffered catastrophic decal failure with the stuff... I found a Part PE canopy frames set in the stash. It replaces the side, upper, and rear panels. A nice feature is the ability to position the upper canopy over the pilot open. I also noticed that the Gavia spinner isn't quite correct for JR-P. The photo shows a more conventional spinner that appears to completely surrounds the blades. The Gavia part sits entirely in front of the propeller, which is correct for the Shuttleworth aircraft as well as many others.
  13. This work is so outstanding, yet superlatives seem trite. How did you make the lifebuoy? On my effort in this scale, I used a kit's plastic ring, paper, and thread.
  14. Just to be clear, this is for former USSR "republics", not other countries in the Warsaw Pact. For example, Polish and Czech subjects wouldn't fit. Is that correct?
  15. Perhaps one of the mods could move this to the Aircraft WIP section? TIA -- dnl
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