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planehazza

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About planehazza

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  1. I'm having great luck with Tamiya acrylics. Thinning them 50/50 with X-20A and having better results; Tamiya just seems to work. Zero clogging at ~20PSI with a 0.2mm needle. If I drop the pressure then it can clog a little, but I find 20PSI seems to work well. I can see me ditching vallejo for Tamiya; Vallejo is better value but they have been more faff involved for me. The mixture rate and need for flow enhancer is too much of a guessing game for me, and they clog way too often for my liking. None of this with Tamiya.
  2. planehazza

    F-16 Speed Brake Internal Colour

    Thanks, Murph. Funnily enough, that was the exact shade I thought it might be, so thanks for clearing that up
  3. planehazza

    F-16 Speed Brake Internal Colour

    Can anyone tell me what colour the speed brake mechanism is please? Is it the same as the outside, or a specific grey/white? Many photos suggest it is the same as the vertical tail, but then some photos suggest it's white, or a mixture of the two. If I were painting a 'regular' USAF Viper, I wouldn't be too fussy, but because I'm doing a splinter aggressor I want to ensure it's as correct as it can be. Thanks!
  4. planehazza

    Me262A-1/U4 1/48

    Getting fed up of people photoshopping out backgrounds and making real planes look like models...
  5. Hi all, I've spent six hours over the last two nights converting the bottom of a kit pylon as in the photo below. Thankfully, I only have one to do! Anyways, it was a VERY fiddly task using a scriber, ad 11 and 10A blades. Are there any tools to get a smoother finish? I've used Tamiya thin to melt the plastic fluff but I'm concerned that the primer is going to show up all the rough edges. In the second image, you can see where I've damaged the now very thin walls. Any ideas how to repair that? No chance of gluing sheet styrene, as cement would melt it and CA would be too tough to sand given how delicate it is. I tried PPP filler, got halfway through reshaping it before it fell out.
  6. Massive fan of the buffers, and in my opinion, the white buffer portion is far superior to the alleged 12'000 grit micro mesh pad. I had no idea they came in the thinny stick version (I use that size in the yellow, orange, and white grits, of which I'm also a huge advocate ) so I will be trying these for sure!
  7. Yeah I was doing that, but I obviously need more practice. I didn't put any flow enhancer in stupidly, but I thinned the Vallejo white to about 1:1 with UMP thinner, and knocked the PSI back to about 15. The tip kept drying, so often in fact that it would clog after almost every blast, meaning that once I'd let go of the trigger I'd have to clean the tip again. Acrylics are so frustrating to spray some times, but then it's part of being an airbrush novice. It's really doing my head in, as "it'll do" simply won't do. I want it to be to my best, which may not be very good, but I want to put in everything I can into my F-16 builds. I'm at the point where the build simply cannot progress until I get this intake done, and having built Tamiya F-16s yourself, I'm sure you understand why haha.
  8. planehazza

    1:1 Scale Painting

    Interesting to see how the real jet painters work. Just goes to show why the marbling technique is so popular. I wonder how much tamiya 2mm and blue tack they go through per jet! https://theaviationgeekclub.com/heres-nellis-afb-corrosion-shop-repaints-aggressors-f-16-fighting-falcons/ Things of note: they paint darkest first, working towards lighter shades. Panel lines on a recently painted jet are very subtle, almost like a model that has no wash applied. I need to watch out of that on my upcoming build. I can see me needing a different wash for each paint shade.
  9. I've found the opposite in success so far. I tried spraying it first and couldn't get a decent coverage without runs. So i did the paint pour and it worked OK to good; I just needed some cleaning up of the edges. This time around, it has been an utter disaster, the point I'm thinking of going down to my LHS tonight and picking up 5x each Tamiya gloss and matt whites, mixing them together to form a satin, and doing the paint pour with that. The whole intake assembly has already had one paint strip bath, not in a rush to do it again
  10. planehazza

    Eduard 1/48 Spitfire HF VIII

    I don't like the extended tips spitfire, and you've modelled it very well, so I don't like your model either. Wait...? Superb work, mate!
  11. May I ask how you painted the inside of the intake? I've just done the paint pour (2nd model I've done it with) and it was a disaster; I must have had beginners luck first time around. I'm planning to fit a FOD cover on this model (I had planned for it to be removable, but now I'm thinking I'll just fix it in place now) but I'd still like to get the inside nice and crisp. I'm going to try sanding it smooth, masking it again, then trying another pour, otherwise I'm either gluing the FOD cover to hide it all, or giving a paint removal bath...
  12. planehazza

    I'm a serial brush killer

    Yeah, that's the stuff I have a use. I think my biggest mistake is allowing paint to get up into the 'roots'. I'll try priming with water. I take it that once a sable hair brush is misshapen, it can't be repaired? I was tempted to get some W&N S7s but I can't trust myself not to ruin them yet. Their website lists them as watercolour brushes, or are there multiple types of series 7s? A 000 W&N S7 is 'only' £8 locally. https://www.details-express.co.uk/acatalog/Winsor-and-Newton-Series-7-Miniature-Sables.html
  13. planehazza

    I'm a serial brush killer

    Yeah, it's 100% user error on my part, I just haven't nailed down what exactly I'm doing wrong, but I have a few ideas to try.
  14. planehazza

    If you're not all bored of RIAT yet....

    To be precise, they're not CJs, but are C block 52+.
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