Marklo
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Posts posted by Marklo
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1 hour ago, pheonix said:
I have bought the reference book and am searching for plans as I will most certainly have to make one of these in the True Scale.
It really is a goldmine I will definitely make a Sablatning triplane and there are two or three other designs I’m considering as well.
They have a couple of other interesting books including German WWI night fighters which I’ll probably invest in over time.
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I’m going to say it’s this scheme only it may or may not have the shark mouth ( which I happen to have in a separate decal sheet, the box is well put away by this stage) so it does leave me with two spare sets of national markings, unit badges and possibly sharkmouths.
If I were going to do an early G I’d go for the italeri over the Hasegawa as the panel lines that would be under the breech block budget are already there and the wing tyre bulges are separate. Otherwise you’ll have to fill and rescribe the cowling area and possibly sand off and rescribe the tyre bulges, not a huge amount of work but nightly all the same.
Also the Decal sheet on the italeri is much better with two Luftwaffe schemes as well as the Swiss and Finnish.
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My G6s arrived. Thankfully both kits compare well to scale plans thankfully no raised panel lines ( unlike my Heller K4) and the Italeri ones come with Finnish and Swiss schemes. I need an early G for one of my builds and it looks like the italeri will be easier to work with so me will probably get converted.
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2 hours ago, Bandsaw Steve said:
Have you ever noticed how there seems to be a disproportionately large number of ‘Steves’ on Britmodeller?
No but there’s an awful lot of Marks
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2 hours ago, Carlosee1974 said:
.the Jeep was going to be left all by itself
Apparently the Willys jeep was considered superior to the Kubelwagon and quite a few captured examples were put to everyday use. So no need to leave it out just find an appropriate captured scheme.
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43 minutes ago, Hook said:
Is she wearing all of her shoes at the same time..?
You know that’s an argument you’re just not going to win. Shoes, handbags, hair even coffee, just don’t go there.
There is no reciprocity when it comes to buying bits of plastic, and the comfort that comes from a well assembled stash just isn’t understood.
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17 minutes ago, Ray S said:
I had a lovely twenty minutes while I was trying to get the Revell Contacta and the Humbrol liquid poly glues to come out of their metal tubes
I have a length of .5mm brass rod for this. I trend to run it through the metal tube first every time rather than fiddling with the bottle to try to get it to come out.
Great build so far.
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http://www.landships.info/landships/models.html
Landships a wonderful resource for early tanks and armour if you click on any of the names on the left hand side of the web page you’ll get a list of downloadable paper tanks and guns. Can be printed and built in card or used as the basis for a plastic model by transferring the components to sheet stock. I built my Saint chamond Sturmpanzer and Schneider in this manner.
There are also a few plane kits and some zeppelins on the site.
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If it were me I’d go for the one I liked. For many reasons there is no such thing as accurate colour unless you have access to the original and quite a bit of specialised hardware. So I tend to go for plausible colour, if it looks right it probably is; and failing that if you’re happy with it then that’s good too.
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31 minutes ago, modelling minion said:
We will buy new kits rather than use the perfectly adequate ones in out burgeoning stash!!
I’m with you; it will be an excuse to reproduce my 1/72 WWI tank collection in 1/35th.
And yes I do now realise the whippet is backwards. And for some reason the FT is factory finish all the rest are weathered particularly the MK IV.
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So I started researching my GeeBee for the GB and unfortunately realised I have the Lindbergh kit not the Williams one, the difference the Williams had a lovely detailed engine the one I have will have to go. The kit is available but for €50 or more, so buying one Isn’t an option. So now to figure out how to scratch a 1/32 wasp 1340.
( I hate making engines and wheels)
Not that I can’t do it. I had to scratch the two Anzanis on the PB31 recently. But the cylinders on the wasp are much more complicated. I’m going to have to think about it a bit.
Which also means I may start the GB with my Ford.
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45 minutes ago, Tomoshenko said:
Becoming increasingly difficult to differentiate this from the real aircraft. I mean this is looking more like a Hawker Fury than a Hawker Fury...
I think the model is a little bit shinier, but I could be wrong
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So can I throw out a question to the me109 experts out there. I know that during 1940 JG53 were ordered to replace the ‘Pik As’ emblem with a red band and as a protest III/JG53 overpainted their (ahem) tail markings. They were then allowed to reinstate the unit badge but not all of them restored their tail markings. Some because they were about to be upgraded to 109 Fs so it wasn’t worth their while.
So it’s possible to have planes from that unit with either a red stripe or a unit badge and with or without tail markings. I’ve found two schemes that I think are authentic, Weiss 5 ( red stripe only) and Gelb 14 ( unit badge only), but there are many more on the interweb, although I suspect these have just had the tail markings omitted. There are also some lovely schemes with a three colour camo and the red stripe but they have tail markings.
for example.
experimental three colour scheme.
So if you’re still reading; my question is this can anyone come up with any more bona fide schemes without tail markings and would the tricolour schemes with the red stripe have had their tail markings overpainted at some stage?
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48 minutes ago, jackroadkill said:
Maybe I'm a bit more normal than I thought I was.
Seriously in these times, who knows what normal is
This is probably my subconscious trying to recreate my former 109 collection ( ignominiously dumped by my elder brother I might add, some years ago) , only in one go. I’m sure it’ll represent some form of deep seated closure
( and no I’m not American)
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On 4/2/2021 at 3:24 AM, opus999 said:
Sorry for the picture heavy start, but I may not see the cockpits again!
No. Pictures are good. In fact tbh sometimes I just look at the pictures I n the threads and don’t read the text.
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This is the last 109 I’ve built Airfix E4 1/72 back in 2017. Brush painted. I’m going to do another BOB E from III/JG53 should be an interesting comparison.
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Looks remarkable. I do have to say the paint and decal then build approach is extremely unconventional although not entirely dissimilar to the process required when building biplanes.
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24 minutes ago, AdrianMF said:
I’m in danger of forgetting that I have a lovely ICM kit to finish! Nacelles assembled:
Yes but think of the Snargasher.
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I think I used the .5mm bit on my Airfix swordfish along with .4mm monofilament and it still looks pretty ok ( although the rigging lines on the real thing are pretty hefty) As happens 1/48 is my preferred scale and I find that combination works very well at that scale.
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I use these micro drill bits; you’ll get a set on eBay very cheap. Generally I just use the bit on its own but I do have a dremel knock off that I sometimes use. The only caveat they are very brittle and can snap easily. The sets I have go down to about .1mm. You can also buy packs of one size.
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I think the Snipe may be my favourite Sopwith, so I’ll follow along.
Just a thought, I know a PC10 snipe would be cdl inside but would a silver snipe be brick red?
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33 minutes ago, vppelt68 said:
I have only five
Ah yes but it’s only early April.
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Well my three G6s arrived today. But my S199s are still awol. So I have ten kits to build. Should be fun
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20 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:
Perhaps for this project you should drop the "i" and we can all just call it "a-LOO-minum" for the duration
A little known fact it was called alumium initially by its discoverer Sir Humphrey Davy, he then changed his mind and used aluminum, before finally changing it to aluminium in line with other metals like chromium and sodium etc.
So in the interest of annoying everyone equally I think you should refer to it as alumium from here on.
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I’m going to say it’s this scheme only it may or may not have the shark mouth ( which I happen to have in a separate decal sheet, the box is well put away by this stage) so it does leave me with two spare sets of national markings, unit badges and possibly sharkmouths.
My G6s arrived. Thankfully both kits compare well to scale plans thankfully no raised panel lines ( unlike my Heller K4) and the Italeri ones come with Finnish and Swiss schemes. I need an early G for one of my builds and it looks like the italeri will be easier to work with so me will probably get converted.
Not that I can’t do it. I had to scratch the two Anzanis on the PB31 recently. But the cylinders on the wasp are much more complicated. I’m going to have to think about it a bit. 
for example.
experimental three colour scheme.
This is the last 109 I’ve built Airfix E4 1/72 back in 2017. Brush painted. I’m going to do another BOB E from III/JG53 should be an interesting comparison.
I think I used the .5mm bit on my Airfix swordfish along with .4mm monofilament and it still looks pretty ok ( although the rigging lines on the real thing are pretty hefty) As happens 1/48 is my preferred scale and I find that combination works very well at that scale.
I use these micro drill bits; you’ll get a set on eBay very cheap. Generally I just use the bit on its own but I do have a dremel knock off that I sometimes use. The only caveat they are very brittle and can snap easily. The sets I have go down to about .1mm. You can also buy packs of one size.
Bf 109 STGB Chat
in Messerschmitt Bf 109 STGB
Posted · Edited by Marklo
@vppelt68 pm me if you’d like one of the italeri decal sheets.
Yes my hasegawa is ancient
and yet again it goes to show you need to be very careful with later model 109s as they can have many different details. I do like that Eduardo scheme hmm might even switch to it for my Finnish 109(s?) hmmm