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pipthepilot

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  1. pipthepilot
    Nice work on the tyres.
  2. pipthepilot
    Unfortunately to share images on this site you have to link to online images. I use Google Photos which is included with gmail. gmail is free to setup, once you have an account you can access Google Photos and upload your images to there. You then have to share the individual image to allow other people to see it, this image can then be used on Britmodeller. Hope that helps.
  3. pipthepilot
    Hello Stefano, I don‘t usually use primer but I did with the tempest as there was a lot of scratch building, sanding and filling to make sure was right. I used Vallejo primer on the whole aircraft. For the underside, I started by painting a thin layer of Hataka Medium Sea Grey directly over the primer, next I painted the the panel line shading in a dark grey. I then airbrushed a random highlight pattern inside of the line shading using plain white. Then I painted another light coat of the Hataka Medium Sea Grey as the top coat. I used a similar process for the Ocean Grey and Dark Green sections. Once the whole aircraft had the colours, I airbrushed a Vallejo gloss varnish layer so I could place the decals. Over the decals I use a thinned coat of Tamiya smoke gloss. This seals the decals but also reduces the overly bright colour of the decals. Then I used panel line wash, my preferred wash is AK Interactive - Paneline for Green and brown camo. I also used some oil paint for staining. I also airbrush the exhaust smoke stains using a very thin layer of black, another thin layer of dark brown and lastly a small area close to the exhausts in light sand colour to replicate some lead staining. Lastly I gave the entire aircraft a coat of Vallejo Satin varnish.
  4. pipthepilot
    I came really close to chickening out! And then I thought I had really f-ed up when the wing tips were further forward on the upper surfaces but once the tips were glued in place everything else fell in place.
  5. pipthepilot
    Thanks Andy, Those gun doors gave me a real headache so I'm quite pleased how they came out. The White 11 scheme is so interesting, I'm particularly looking forward to creating the bare metal finish on the gun cover and the underwing surfaces.
  6. pipthepilot
    When I tested the Hataka paints I used them straight from the bottle and they sprayed fine. When I am airbrushing models I always use "Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver" with all my Acrylic paints, including the Hataka. The flow improver does thin the paint slightly, but more importantly, it stops the paint drying in the airbrush which reduces paint blocking.
  7. pipthepilot
    What an incredible build, your Mustang looks amazing.
  8. pipthepilot
    I have just spent the last couple of hours getting the wings on using Howard's method of attaching the upper wing surfaces first. It is not easy but probably the only way you can get the gun doors in the correct place. The doors have to be attached after the wings are on but I found I needed to push them from below to get them to sit right. If I had attached the lower surface there would have been no way to move them. I found that I had to use a lot of clamping when joining the wing surfaces together, again there are no alignment pins so I found the best approach was to join one part then leave it to dry before moving to the next. The gun doors did need a lot of filling but the gaps weren't too big so Perfect Plastic Putty worked well. Whilst I was waiting for parts of the wing to dry I also worked on the undercarriage. I quite like having all the extra bits, the ones that are attached last, to be fully finished and painted before I start painting the main body as I found I have more patience at that stage. If I wait until the painting is done I tend to rush those parts to get the thing finished. 🙄
  9. pipthepilot
    Closed up the fuselage, which wasn't the easiest job. There are no aligning pins so you have to keep an eye out for the alignment in different places. I made life even harder for myself by forgetting to install the tail wheel and then having to pull the rear fuselage apart again to install it. There is a large gap at the rear of where the canopy sits but as this won't be seen when the canopy is in place I am not even going to attempt to fix it. There was actually very little filling needed, I used Mr Dissolved Putty to fill the tiny gaps and then Mr Surfacor to cover the faint lines before sand and polish. Then I just had to re-scribe the lost panel lines and rivets. In the past, I have struggled with scribing panel lines but I recently bought a Mr Scriber (Narrow) http://www.hmhobbies.co.uk/mr-scriber-narrow.html and I can't highly recommend it enough. The lines below were scribed with Mr Scriber and Dymo tape as a guide, I have found the secret is to make several very very light passes then the tape can be removed and then make a few more passes to get the depth correct. Finally, I clean the lines with Mr Cement S.
  10. pipthepilot
    Hello Stefano, I have been very slow to take some photos, I will try to do them today to post in RFI. 😳 As for the paints, I used a combination of Vallejo, Ammo Mig and Hataka. The Hataka Dark Green is a very good match, compared to the colour chips in the book "British Aviation Colours of World War Two" and was as easy to use as Vallejo. That said, I bought some Hataka RLM colours recently to test and found a few were very difficult to cover. In case it is useful, the below image is my spreadsheet to keep track of colour matches based on the paints I own compared to the colour chips. I realise that this doesn't take into account colour scale but personally, I prefer to know that the colour is correct first as post shading and highlighting means the colour isn't consistent anyway.
  11. pipthepilot
    Thanks for the compliment and I'm really pleased that you found this thread useful.
  12. pipthepilot
    I might give it a go, I am really concerned about the fit of the closed gun doors over the wing, they seem like they are going to need a lot of fettling and having the upper surfaces attached first could help. The fix to get the lower wing section in the correct alignment was very easy and in the end, I only had to shave a small amount away from the wing spar.
  13. pipthepilot
    Couldn't agree more, an incredible aircraft. Lovely model by the way.
  14. pipthepilot
    Thanks for the link, was really interesting to read your wip and two very nice 190s you have there. I like the way you joined the upper wings to the fuselage first before the lower section.
  15. pipthepilot
    So, I have run into a bit of a problem this evening. I dry fitted the wings and I couldn't get them to align properly. If you look at the image below you can see where the oval is, the fuselage is butted up against the wing spar but the whole fuselage still needs to move forward by about a millimetre so the trailing edge fairings line up where the box is. From below you can see that because of the issue described above, there is a large gap at the rear and at the front, the wing overlaps the lower engine panels. I think the problem is caused because the wing spar should have been slightly further forward, which is strange because the support piece behind the spar has locating pins that were correctly aligned. To correct it I will remove some plastic from both mating faces, i.e. some from the back of the spar and some from the fuselage.
  16. pipthepilot
    Thanks for the compliment, I'm glad Troy stepped in with an answer as to the kit pros and cons as I have not built the Tamiya kit so couldn't give you a decent answer. Again, I defer to Troy for the accuracy of this kit but in terms of assembly, generally it is good but it has thrown up a couple of issues. I'm glad Kahunaminor warned me about the firewall alignment as that would have been a real gotcha and it is definitely a kit to always dry fit first as I have had a couple of issues to sort out. See below.
  17. pipthepilot
    I was hoping to get the fuselage halves together today but in the end, I only go as far as painting and varnishing ready for panel wash.
  18. pipthepilot
    That must have taken a lot of patience with all those PE ribs, really good work and a great subject.
  19. pipthepilot
    This is looking like a fun build, might follow along from here.
  20. pipthepilot
    Started working on the wings and boy, Eduard really wants you to have the wing gun bays open. You have to cut out part of the wing to allow the doors to sit inside rather than on top, I have made it as neat as possible but I will have to fill some areas. I generally like Eduard kits but surely they could have designed this better? Thought I would also modify the barrels, partly so they won't get broken but mainly by using brass tube they look much more like barrels. This image below is the test fit, I can now remove them, glue the wings together and glue the barrels later on.
  21. pipthepilot
    Congratulations, it really does deserve it.
  22. pipthepilot
    Really beautiful, you have really nailed the paintwork and weathering.
  23. pipthepilot
    You can buy sheets of letters in different sizes in order to create any serial number or squadron code you like. such as https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/X72189
  24. pipthepilot
    Looking very good, can't wait to see the colour over the top of that pre-shading.
  25. pipthepilot
    It is always nice to see a good biplane and you have a great job on this one, especially the rigging it looks fantastic.
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