Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

445 Excellent

About pipthepilot

  • Rank
    Established Member
  • Birthday 09/26/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    WWII Aircraft, Early Jets and 1930s race planes

Recent Profile Visitors

329 profile views
  1. Unfortunately to share images on this site you have to link to online images. I use Google Photos which is included with gmail. gmail is free to setup, once you have an account you can access Google Photos and upload your images to there. You then have to share the individual image to allow other people to see it, this image can then be used on Britmodeller. Hope that helps.
  2. Hello Stefano, I don‘t usually use primer but I did with the tempest as there was a lot of scratch building, sanding and filling to make sure was right. I used Vallejo primer on the whole aircraft. For the underside, I started by painting a thin layer of Hataka Medium Sea Grey directly over the primer, next I painted the the panel line shading in a dark grey. I then airbrushed a random highlight pattern inside of the line shading using plain white. Then I painted another light coat of the Hataka Medium Sea Grey as the top coat. I used a similar process for the Ocean Grey and Dark Green sections. Once the whole aircraft had the colours, I airbrushed a Vallejo gloss varnish layer so I could place the decals. Over the decals I use a thinned coat of Tamiya smoke gloss. This seals the decals but also reduces the overly bright colour of the decals. Then I used panel line wash, my preferred wash is AK Interactive - Paneline for Green and brown camo. I also used some oil paint for staining. I also airbrush the exhaust smoke stains using a very thin layer of black, another thin layer of dark brown and lastly a small area close to the exhausts in light sand colour to replicate some lead staining. Lastly I gave the entire aircraft a coat of Vallejo Satin varnish.
  3. I came really close to chickening out! And then I thought I had really f-ed up when the wing tips were further forward on the upper surfaces but once the tips were glued in place everything else fell in place.
  4. Thanks Andy, Those gun doors gave me a real headache so I'm quite pleased how they came out. The White 11 scheme is so interesting, I'm particularly looking forward to creating the bare metal finish on the gun cover and the underwing surfaces.
  5. When I tested the Hataka paints I used them straight from the bottle and they sprayed fine. When I am airbrushing models I always use "Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver" with all my Acrylic paints, including the Hataka. The flow improver does thin the paint slightly, but more importantly, it stops the paint drying in the airbrush which reduces paint blocking.
  6. I have just spent the last couple of hours getting the wings on using Howard's method of attaching the upper wing surfaces first. It is not easy but probably the only way you can get the gun doors in the correct place. The doors have to be attached after the wings are on but I found I needed to push them from below to get them to sit right. If I had attached the lower surface there would have been no way to move them. I found that I had to use a lot of clamping when joining the wing surfaces together, again there are no alignment pins so I found the best approach was to join one part then leave it to dry before moving to the next. The gun doors did need a lot of filling but the gaps weren't too big so Perfect Plastic Putty worked well. Whilst I was waiting for parts of the wing to dry I also worked on the undercarriage. I quite like having all the extra bits, the ones that are attached last, to be fully finished and painted before I start painting the main body as I found I have more patience at that stage. If I wait until the painting is done I tend to rush those parts to get the thing finished.
  7. Closed up the fuselage, which wasn't the easiest job. There are no aligning pins so you have to keep an eye out for the alignment in different places. I made life even harder for myself by forgetting to install the tail wheel and then having to pull the rear fuselage apart again to install it. There is a large gap at the rear of where the canopy sits but as this won't be seen when the canopy is in place I am not even going to attempt to fix it. There was actually very little filling needed, I used Mr Dissolved Putty to fill the tiny gaps and then Mr Surfacor to cover the faint lines before sand and polish. Then I just had to re-scribe the lost panel lines and rivets. In the past, I have struggled with scribing panel lines but I recently bought a Mr Scriber (Narrow) http://www.hmhobbies.co.uk/mr-scriber-narrow.html and I can't highly recommend it enough. The lines below were scribed with Mr Scriber and Dymo tape as a guide, I have found the secret is to make several very very light passes then the tape can be removed and then make a few more passes to get the depth correct. Finally, I clean the lines with Mr Cement S.
  8. Hello Stefano, I have been very slow to take some photos, I will try to do them today to post in RFI. As for the paints, I used a combination of Vallejo, Ammo Mig and Hataka. The Hataka Dark Green is a very good match, compared to the colour chips in the book "British Aviation Colours of World War Two" and was as easy to use as Vallejo. That said, I bought some Hataka RLM colours recently to test and found a few were very difficult to cover. In case it is useful, the below image is my spreadsheet to keep track of colour matches based on the paints I own compared to the colour chips. I realise that this doesn't take into account colour scale but personally, I prefer to know that the colour is correct first as post shading and highlighting means the colour isn't consistent anyway.
  9. Thanks for the compliment and I'm really pleased that you found this thread useful.
  10. I might give it a go, I am really concerned about the fit of the closed gun doors over the wing, they seem like they are going to need a lot of fettling and having the upper surfaces attached first could help. The fix to get the lower wing section in the correct alignment was very easy and in the end, I only had to shave a small amount away from the wing spar.
  11. Couldn't agree more, an incredible aircraft. Lovely model by the way.
  12. Thanks for the link, was really interesting to read your wip and two very nice 190s you have there. I like the way you joined the upper wings to the fuselage first before the lower section.
  13. So, I have run into a bit of a problem this evening. I dry fitted the wings and I couldn't get them to align properly. If you look at the image below you can see where the oval is, the fuselage is butted up against the wing spar but the whole fuselage still needs to move forward by about a millimetre so the trailing edge fairings line up where the box is. From below you can see that because of the issue described above, there is a large gap at the rear and at the front, the wing overlaps the lower engine panels. I think the problem is caused because the wing spar should have been slightly further forward, which is strange because the support piece behind the spar has locating pins that were correctly aligned. To correct it I will remove some plastic from both mating faces, i.e. some from the back of the spar and some from the fuselage.
  • Create New...