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About spejic

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  1. The lighting really made this look epic. There are moments you could really believe this is the ship itself and not a model.
  2. First, the answers that won't help you. The best styrene F-35B comes in the Tamiya Ibuki kit, a fictional variant of the Izumo helicopter destroyer. The best styrene F-35C comes in the brand new Pit Road stealth fighter aircraft set. You get two nice SH-60J helicopters in either of the most recent Pit-Road JMSDF upgrade sets (either NE10 or NE11) - they are pretty much SH-60B's with the right paint and decals. But all of these are pretty wasteful if all you want are the specific aircraft. A much more efficient way to go are the Trumpeter SH-60B, SH-60F, MH-60S, or HH-60H sets, which are also excellent but molded in clear plastic which I don't like. None of the kits I mentioned include photo etch, but almost all photo etch for ship kits include helicopter blades. I don't know any styrene F-35B or C alone sets released up to now. They exist in resin (like the amazing Orange Hobby ones), but those are at a price that makes getting the entire Ibuki kit more thinkable.
  3. Try looking for images of the US State Department Air Wing. They operated Hueys in Afghanistan in both a fetching sand camo scheme and a civilian-looking grey with red stripe, both of which might be armed.
  4. The weathering is very appropriate. There are a decent number of pictures taken by Americans after Hetzers were knocked out or in junk yards just after the war, and they pretty much all look like this.
  5. Mostly out of the box. I extended the intake back a bit and I added some minor changes to the cockpit. These are kit decals, but the Pit-Road kit has almost no warning or stencil decals so some I printed myself. The bombs come from the Revell Tornado Gr.1 kit. The kit mostly goes together well. For some reason I had trouble fitting the wing to the fuselage, and I had to hack away a big chunk of the internals to make them come together. The airbrake requires lots of filling if you pose it closed. And the long pylons require bending to fit the wing. That stupid port canard broke off so many times. It caused me weeks and weeks of repeated repairs and repaints. The snap-fit nature of the kit shows in the gear wells. I probably should have spend some time cutting all that away. I had to weather the belly a bit to hide some paint issues.
  6. Seeing your work, I never would have believed it. Guns and turrets are easy to add after painting as they don't have any gaps that need filling. I would use a PVA glue, as it makes things easy to position and you don't need a structural bond.
  7. Fantastic painting and weathering, both in design and execution.
  8. Thank you all. I really appreciate such thoughtful comments.
  9. This has been a very on-and-off build starting when the kit was first released in 2006. But it's finally done. As you can see, I had a bit of fun with the paint scheme. I used a He-162-style ejection seat because it was a more advanced device better suited to a Luft '46 production aircraft and not at all because the correct style of seat no longer fit in my modified cockpit and I had one of those lying around. There were an extensive number of additions and changes to the kit. The original had holes where the engine exhausts were supposed to be, allowing you to look right through out the massive nose gear bay. So we need to make engines and while we are at it we should add the structural pipe-work around it. Brick red was a primer color for plywood, and it allows a nice contrast for the pipes. However, it took 6 episodes of Star Trek Enterprise to mask off the red and another one to take all the tape off when I was done painting. The cockpit had even more complicated pipe-work. As you see, I divided the pipes between the two halves of the kit. When I first constructed this in 2012, I had a clever system of sliding everything together. When I came back to the kit in 2018, I forgot how to do it, and I ended up breaking a few things learning. The instrument panel is a kit-supplied decal. I later added some simple bezels around the larger instruments to make it look better. I also added ammo boxes and feed paths, and the guns were moved forward to the correct location. Everything except the main posts of the landing gear was scratchbuilt. The curvy bits are boat davits from Pit Road 1/700 scale JMSDF ships. Some of the doors were scratchbuilt as well because I put them someplace safe years ago and I couldn't find them later. The nose gear also got scratchbuilt parts, and its doors were modified from the Horten 3-door system to the production style 2-long door style. For some reason, I had steps between the wing and the wing (it's all wing, right?). That took lots of sanding and rescribing and I lost some raised rivet detail. The front canopy just would not sit right without repeated modifications to the shape of the instrument panel (a kit part!). Otherwise it went together well. Model Master paints, 3rd party decals for the crosses, kit decals for the warnings.
  10. The best part of the Revell kit is spending years scratchbuilding the engines and pipework and cockpit and fixing up the landing gears and their doors and moving the guns to the correct location and then finding out that Zoukei-Mura are releasing a 1/72 version of the aircraft. Maybe "best" is not the right word.
  11. The launch is the easy part. You would just use a bridle like many of the aircraft of the period (like F-4's and A-4's).
  12. spejic


    Hull and superstructure are FS36270, which is Neutral Grey in the Model Master line. There isn't a direct Tamiya equivalent. Note that the color weathers a lot, particularly when painted on anti-radar reflecting surfaces (which sometimes take on a checkerboard pattern as a result).
  13. That's a nice looking and clean aircraft. The wash is nicely restrained, but looks even which is a trick with the uneven Hasegawa panel lines. You are also missing the pitot tube at the top of the tail. You still have the hole it goes into, so it should be a quick addition.
  14. The paint was on for a fairly short time. It would either be new, in which case it would be an extremely even tint with barely visible panel lines, or it would be used, in which case it would be an extremely even tint with barely visible panel lines except that every possible place that oil could leak or liquids could collect or grounds crew could touch or vents could vent would become very dirty very quickly.
  15. This is building at the highest quality. Looking at the amazing high resolution images, it almost feels like you can open the door into the wheelhouse or man the oars on the boats.
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