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spejic

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  1. Someone did this scheme using Tamiya X-34 metallic brown and I think it looks spot on. https://www.kampfgruppe144.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3700
  2. I don't like this scheme either, but the F-15E is well represented in third-party decals. You can can chose from many different units from many different time periods. I'm sure that's what most modellers will be doing.
  3. Plastic ones are a little tricky because the thickness means you will get a fuzzy circle unless you spray into the corner of the template in a circular manner. There are really thin metal templates which don't have the problem.
  4. I've done some custom decals, and on US Navy aircraft, particularly older ones, there is very little standardization of letter shapes and spaces between letters. If you look closely, they will vary between aircraft or even on different places on the same aircraft. I've found I've had to just trace what the picture shows to get accurate text.
  5. Thank you for giving us those helpful hints. I have this kit and your experience will be very useful. I still need a 1/72 Carl Anderson, but that's another matter.
  6. Actually, I'm incredibly near sighted. Without corrective lenses I only see things clearly about 10cm from my face. I figure I should use my handicap for something productive.
  7. A Lego figure is 4cm tall. The ship is about 7.5cm long.
  8. The six ships of the Hayabusa class were designed as fast-reaction craft for threats close to the coasts. They were built starting in 2002, a few years after a North Korean spy ship traded shots with Japanese Coast Guard vessels. They replaced three Type 1 hydrofoils which were fast but didn't have much else to recommend them. The Aoshima kit for the Hayabusa patrol boat comes with two kits, but the decals are terrible (totally wrong font and silver badly anyway) so one of the kits is waiting (and may wait forever) for the proper hull numbers. But I did have some decals meant for the Pit Road Sugashima minesweeper that let me finish PG-828 Umitaka. GMM railing, Colourcoats paints. Showing how big it is using a universal measuring device. Here's a picture during construction that shows some of the improvements. Besides the general added detail, there were some notable problems with the area behind the bridge and the mast. The crane was also terrible. Antenna are taken from a fine braided wire. There are still some things that need work. I lost a tiny antenna off the mast during transport to the USS Hornet model show, and the dull coat (done during high humidity) seems to have left a bit of fogging on the turret. I'm not sure how to fix that, although in my experience it sometimes works itself out.
  9. I'd say it's more than a rumor seeing as he wrote about it in his own autobiography.
  10. At one point this was sooo close to happening. Microsoft wanted to make their own streaming service, and Blake's 7 was going to be one of their shows. They had hired directors and script writers to do initial treatments but then Microsoft canned the whole enterprise. There was a reboot radio show about a decade ago. I rather liked it.
  11. Did you have any difficulty installing the upper wing? Those "W" parts in the kit are really wimpy feeling and I was wondering if you had any problems.
  12. spejic

    Africa GB chat

    Are we going to get a vote in the Gallery thread?
  13. Considering the stress on the part and the angle of the break, you really need to pin that when you fix it.
  14. I think pies are the perfect graph style for this. We are not doing any sort of data analysis here, we just need a feel for the relative sizes of the parts of the whole. For example, in the Kit Makers graph the important thing is that a quarter of the builds are Airfix or Eduard and the rest are sprinkled over a wide array of makes and it doesn't matter that it's hard to connect builders to exact counts. You couldn't get this in a bar graph unless you make one a mile long in 4 point font, or you group everything with 3 or fewer builds in a single "other" bar, which is far more problematic.
  15. One night recently I dreamt that I was supposed to be building a 1/144 scale MiG-21 and when I awoke I checked under a pile of A-4M instructions and parts to find out that was the case. The last thing I did to the model was paint the main part of the canopy frame the interior Russian blue-green. Because it's bad form to put acrylics on not-fully-cured enamel, and the only bottle of interior Russian blue-green I had was enamel, I mixed my own using a precise formula of some drips of Model Master teal and some drops of Model Master RLM 25. It looked great, and by intelligently looking ahead I didn't need to wait a couple of months before continuing painting to be sure the enamel was set and could continue work right away. So a couple of months later I put down the green parts of the camouflage in all parts except the nose, which will be done last because I don't feel like installing or masking the MiG-21's jousting lance, which in this scale is the most delicate and breakable plastic part conceived by man. I did the green first because it's a lot easier to mask that than the yellow, and I'm all about doing things the easy way. Nothing's easier than painting yellow over dark colors. I'm sure of it.
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