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Spiny

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About Spiny

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  1. Seconded. When I think of the size of these, it makes the detailing especially incredible. All praise you receive is fully deserved.
  2. I'm trying to get through this year without buying any kits (don't laugh anybody!), but this is one of those which is sorely tempting me. I'll be interested to see what you make of it, from first impressions it looks like it should make a very good representation.
  3. Thanks everyone. Matthew - that sounds like a good tip with the magnets. I'm hoping that this one will settle ok once I have the engine cover fitted properly, otherwise that tip is likely to be used. I suspect at sometime in the future there will be a kit where that will be needed - I've been quite lucky so far. And I'm looking forward to your purple machine - I've seen you produce great results from kits very inferior to this one so it should be a good one for us to watch (and I'm sure you'll enjoy this kit too).
  4. Definitely a relief to get it sorted - you can probably imagine my reaction when it shattered. Good old Amazon for it. This is the one I bought, but I'm sure others are available. You'll also want to buy a cheap UV torch if you haven't got one already, unless you're content to go for a slow cure on the windowsill and let the sun do itswork. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B076RHF9NG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 To apply, I just use a cocktail stick, exactly the same process as with Clearfix when it comes to application. Then, once you have the part in place and have made sure you haven't got any resin sitting when you don't want it (like on the windscreen of the Stratos I did), shine the UV torch on itfor 30s to a minute and it should be solid enough. I only got this end of September, so I'm not sure if it will be harder to work with under the summer sun.
  5. I'm not sure you need a clear coat on that - the shine on that is better than my finished paints.
  6. With the rotten weather this weekend, I got a decent go on the table (in between leaks ). First up was getting those front lights sorted out - a little bit fiddly but nothing that some curved tweezers couldn't sort out. A bit of tube glue to tack in place, then once that had set some Tamiya Extra Thin to secure them, and all was ready (apart from the indicator/sidelight lenses which will come later. After that it was the turn of the back end, and it took most of the weekend to get the small reflectors in the middle of the reversing lights painted with enough layers to look ok. Fortunately, the rest of the red and orange glass came as coloured plastic so that was easy. Or so I thought... but there was a valuable lesson learned - when removing a part from the sprue, always cut the bit nearest the fat bit first if it's held on my many joints, especially if it's clear plastic which tends to be a bit more brittle The rear lights have a chromed reflector piece which needs fitting first, then it's the turn of the glass. Following trials with the Stratos, I went with the infra-red setting clear resin, which I ran around the edge of the recess before installing the 'glass'. Fortunately, with a little trimming, I was able to get the red surround glass fitted and looking something like ok - you can't tell on the real thing so please believe me when I say this picture shows it as bad as it gets. The fit around the lenses is tight - you could possibly get away with just clicking them in place, but I'd rather have a bit more security than that. Good job I went with the resin - I had a bit of transfer via my finger onto the paint when I was trying to press the orange and clear lenses into place, but unlike normal glue could wipe it down before using the IR torch to set it. I'm liking this stuff more and more. Anyway, after this weekend, this is where I am. The number plate decal will wait until the body is on the chassis just in case...
  7. As Jeroen said, white cars can be a real pain to photograph, but your pics look pretty good to me and are certainly enough to show how well this one ended up - good job with both model and photographs. It's odd, when the 360 first came out I thought it was a bit of a minger, but as the years have passed the looks have grown on me.
  8. I've got the Vallejo filler myself and to be honest aren't all that impressed by it. Personally, i try to give it longer than 10 hours to fully set, but I still find it susceptible to pulling out of whatever hole you're trying to fill and don't even think of trying to wet sand it (!). It also seems to have a tendency to shrink back with primer, so for all but the smallest holes you're probably going to be filling, priming and repeating. I won't be getting any more of this - just haven't got myself another filler yet so probably creating more work for myself. But rest assured, you can get there in the end.
  9. Good job on the model, very nicely detailed too. I wouldn't worry too much about the gap between the top and the main body - every single one of these I've seen (including the one I did when I was in my teens) has that gap and as you say, it's not going anywhere unless you permanently glue it shut and hide all that work on the engine.
  10. Good job there, it's a good kit and you've done well with it. Definitely the right sort of colour for the car too - communist drab is just the thing for it. Only one question - aren't you going to show us any photos of the engine?
  11. Very carefully! Basically, I used a 5/0 brush to paint the grille with a 10/0 brush for the bits around the headlights using semi-gloss black paint. For something like this, unless your eyes are very good, a magnifying headset is very handy. All the chrome was kit chrome apart from the window surrounds and where I touched up attachment points. I guess if you wanted to do a wire aftermarket grille effect you could use a black wash over it then rub the wash off the high points, but the standard grille is black.
  12. Damn you! I'm planning to have the S2000 build later in the year, and I can already tell it's going to look so basic compared to this. Hurry up and finish so mine doesn't get compared to this Seriously though, this is looking like a great start and I get the feeling it's going to look awesome when complete.
  13. First of all, good choice of kit. I did one last year (see sig in link if you want to see that one) and there's not a lot wrong with it, and an awful lot right. I'll try and answer as many of your questions below as I can.
  14. Can't help with the aerial, but I would definitely recommend the Molotow Liquid Chrome for the headlights. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Pump-Marker/dp/B01E7EFSVU Personally, I find that the finish from the 1mm pen is better than the 2mm pen I also have, but that may just be me. If you get one, make sure you give it a good shake before use. Also, be aware that while it dries reasonably quickly, it takes a long time to fully harden (best to leave for a week at least if you can) and will still not be super tough. It might not quite match kit chrome for shininess, but it isn't far off and is a lot better than normal silver paint.
  15. Unfortunately so - two headlights, reflector, black trim and body-coloured top on each. The keen eyed amongst you may have noticed that the top in the photo above didn't quite line up with the rest of the light - turned out that at some stage since last summer the left and right top pieces had got transposed. So I've parted the top from the rest of the unit and fitted the correct piece - looks better now and will fit properly when I come to add it to the body.
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