Sturmovik
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Posts posted by Sturmovik
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2 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:
If you have future floor polish or something similar this technique will work. If not please do not attempt it. You can polish the canopy with progressively finer sanding films. Then dip it in future floor polish if you have that available.
Is sandpaper the same, from 600 and up? I was talking minutes ago with another guy about this, he recommended me a fingernail sanding stick bought in perfumeries that have pregressively finer sanding grades.
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Hopefully I´ll begin decalling the aircraft tomorrow. The spinner was handpainted.
@Troy Smith thank you for linking the brush painting topic in one of my posts, I did what it said, and the mottling came out so much better.
I scratched the canopy with the knife while I was removing it from the sprue, how can fix it?
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@Kahunaminor this is exactly what I was after, a full step by step build of Eduard´s model. It doesn´t look too difficult with that. I think you got a good fit of the gun covers by not adding the guns Eduard provides.
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The aircraft itself was completed after 4 hours of work. Naturally, I managed to almost remove parts of the wings while removing the remaining sprue gates. I also wanted to get a bit more professional, and filled with CA the seams and hatch that didn´t belong to the version of the model, and rescribed the panel lines that were deleted after using sandpaper (all of that with moderate success). I could buy Tamiya putty, but its 35U$D in Argentina (I´d only buy it if I were to build more models).
Up next is the painting stage. I always wanted an Fw 190 painted in RLM 70/71.
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Thanks, you can´t have enough Fw 190s, and I knew I had to have this one when it first appeared on the group.
Which means I´ll have to save for some more time before I buy the new PC I want.
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Good night guys,
I bought this model on Facebook this Thursday, and went to pick it up today to a reunion of plastic modellers.
I plan to build this Fw 190A-5 as Walter Nowotny´s aircraft (the other option is for Egon Meyer) while using Eduard´s painting instructions.
Decals are of the old Hasegawa style, with an ivory colour, just like the ones in their Japanese Army boxing of this aircraft.
I´ll post the progress of the build as soon as I begin, most likely tomorrow.
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How were the decals? Were they thick or did they settle down into the panel lines without problems?
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I built the MPM kit as the Italeri boxing in the past and had to sand down the upper parts of the wheel wells in order to get the upper halves of the wings to meet the lower halves. That´s the only issue I had with the kit if I remember correctly.
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2 hours ago, Troy Smith said:
Hi Jamie
I think it is more that Revell paint seems to originate from Germany, and many are matched to RAL standards, and despite the funny names are reasonable matches for various Luftwaffe colours I believe. (though if Revell quoted RAL numbers it would help)
actually, this gotme thinking and it looks like Revell do use the RAL names, but not the numbers
from list below
Revell Blaugrau Matt 79 (RLM 75) -
RAL 7031
Blaugrau
though I'dthink
RAL 7036
Platingrau
looks more like RLM 75
Revell Mausgrau Matt 47 (RLM 74) -
RAL 7005
Mausgrau
The above list is most likley from carious Revell instructions, i did the same thing a while back here
Looking at the list above the one thing that stikes me is the RLM 65/76/78 recommendations, as adding some white to RLM 65 does not make 76, and 78 is a deeper blue. (plus the grey confusion)
Sorry, a bit rambling, but hopefully some useful details.
@Sturmovik if you really want to double check, there is the paint chip chart from
http://www.crecy.co.uk/luftwaffe-colours-1935-1945-paint-chip-chart
which are actual paint chips and are considered the best available.
HTH
Revell 79 isn´t RLM 75, the former is much more bluish. When I built Revell´s Ju 87D in 1:32, the instructions called for the use of that colour for the pilot´s suits. Revell 69 is much greener, though I´ve also seen Revell put 78 Tank Grey as RLM 74.
Regarding the blues, Revell states in their instructions that adding white to Revell 49 will make RLM 76, since that one was a paler blue/borderline grey. I don´t know about RLM 78, maybe mixing Revell 56 with white, to make it paler but not as pale as 49 would work?
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6 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:
Which RLM colour reference is this based on?
It´s more of comparison chart between the RLM colours I´ve read about and the colours Revell lists on its instructions.
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I never saw a conversion chart for RLM/Revell colours, so I´m publishing one I made in 2015 with hopes of helping those who also paint with Revell. It can be used both with the acrylics and the enamels. The most recent colour added was 361 Satin Olive Green.
RLM 01 (Silver) Revell Metallic 90 (Silver).
RLM 02 (Grey) Revell Matt 45 (Light Olive).
RLM 04 (Yellow) Revell Matt 15 (Yellow).
RLM 21 (White) Revell Matt 05 (White).
RLM 22 (Black) Revell Matt 08 (Black).
RLM 23 (Red) Revell Matt 36 (Carmine Red).
RLM 24 (Blue) Revell Matt 56 (Blue).
RLM 25 (Light Green) Revell Matt 48 (Sea Green).
RLM 65 (Light Blue) Revell Matt 49 (Light Blue).
RLM 66 (Dark Grey) Revell Matt 77 (Dust Grey).
RLM 70 (Black Green) Revell Matt 40 (Black Green).
RLM 71 (Dark Green) Revell Matt 39 (Dark Green).
RLM 72 (Green) Revell Matt 39 + Revell Matt 15.
RLM 73 (Green) Revell Matt 47 + Revell Matt 45.
RLM 74 (Green Grey) Revell Matt 69 (Granite Grey).
RLM 75 (Violet Grey) Revell Matt 47 (Mouse Grey).
RLM 76 (Light Blue Grey) Revell Matt 49 (90%) + Revell Matt 05 (10%).
RLM 77 (Light Grey) Revell Matt 77 (Light Grey).
RLM 78 (Light Blue) Revell Matt 49 (Light Blue).
RLM 79 (Sand Yellow) Revell Matt 17 (Sand Brown).
RLM 80 (Olive Green) Revell Satin 361 (Olive Green).
RLM 81 (Brown Violet) Revell Matt 46 (NATO Olive).
RLM 82 (Light Green) Revell Matt 65 (Bronze Green).
RLM 83 (Dark Green) Revell Matt 68 (RAF Green).
RLM 84 (Green Blue) Revell Matt 59 (Duck Egg Blue/RAF Sky).
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26 minutes ago, Procopius said:
I don't see myself tightening up the demarcation.
Don´t do it, the model is almost finished, any attempt at correcting something of the paint may ruin the camouflage.
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@Uncle Uncool I´m from Capital too, neighbourhood not disclosed though.
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7 minutes ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:
Partly, as in I did cut the wing skins. I also chamfered the cutout in the wing and then chamfered the hatch edges too.
Where I deviated is gluing the hatches to the wing first. I did this because I'd already read countless complaints that it was extremely difficult to get a good fit trying to fit them afterwards.
I suspect Eduard know this kit is a bit of a pup because they did indeed retool it after a very short life. Most companies would expect a lot more than a decade between toolings.
What do you mean by "chamfered"? Could you show me a picture of what you mean?
By reading the instructions, I think I may procede as follows:
1) Build the basic forward bulkhead and leave pieces H5/H6/H20/H21/H18/H19 in the sprues.
2) Open the holes in the wings for the SC50 bombs.
3) Glue piece K20 first and then the wingspar, to get a good alignment.
4) Open the areas Eduard mentions to add the hatches in the closed position, and not glue pieces I14/J3 and I15/J3.
Maybe by doing that and following the other advices, I may be able to fully close the aircraft. Luckily it doesn´t have PE.
Eduard wasn´t counting for (a lot of) people to want their aircraft fully closed, so they went and retooled most of it, mainly the engine and the uper halves of the wings, which now come with the hatches in the closed position.
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@Corsairfoxfouruncle I´ll give it a try when I have some free time. In the meantime, I´ll write down on paper what was written here.
@Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies just to know, did you follow Eduard´s instructions for the closed wing cannon bays?
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@Troy Smith I use Revell acrylics yes. Thank you very much for the video, I´ll make sure to put into good use what you showed me.
@Marco that´s another good advice, I never thought on that one.
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46 minutes ago, longweight said:
Problems I recall with the HC/ACAD kits was besides the tail struts (I cant think of any kit in 72th or 48th that doesnt have this problem) I recall having problems fitting the engine cowl as it was a touch narrower (wider?...it was some 20 yrs ago) than the fuselage.
A major difference between the two kits was the underside of the wings. HC had the cannon bulge as a separate part so doing an E-1 was a doddle compared to sanding down and reinstating on the Hasegawa wing.
The cowling was a tad narrow, and also wouldn´t fit without a sanding on its mounts. The way HC did the nose assembly allowed for an easy painting, you could add the propeller after the model was completely painted and decalled.
Leaving the bulges out and not opening the flashed holes for the wing cannons will give you an E-1?
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Thanks, somehow I missed the RLM 75 mottling while painting the model (I was guiding myself with my phone).
29 minutes ago, Troy Smith said:there was a thread on this recently
@Antti_K technique is very well explained, experiment with an old model, stippling the paint on is not hard, and would really enhance your Luftwaffe builds, which you have been asking about.
We have at least one other Argentine member, @Uncle Uncool who is also Buenos Aires BTW.
HTH
T
Last week I was looking at that exact same topic, wouldn´t a highly thinned paint leave a blob when dry?
Sadly I didn´t keep my old models, all of them were thrown into the garbage.Interesting to know that about Uncle Uncool.
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I guess I´ll pass on this one and buy the new A-4, or build up courage and do what it´s said above.
Thanks.
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How´s the kit going? It looks great so far.
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Good night guys,
This could very well be my first Eduard kit, but I would like to know what construction tips could some of you give me to make this build as pain free as possible. I´ve read several reviews, most state how detailed the kit is and how well it looks when finished, but only two point out which areas requiere extra attention to avoid ruining the model (for example, attaching piece K20 before gluing the wing spar). The model would be built with everything closed up (I thought of not adding the guns, cutting the muzzles and gluing them after the model is painted).
I would also use the instructions of the Profipack version since they´re more complete and have the camouflage scheme in full colour.
The model in question.
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@tempestfan the Verlinden cockpit set looks the same as what came in my Academy kit, but I had to play with the parts to make them look like the drawings in the instructions. Maybe that´s why the frontal bulkhead was too long.
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@Troy Smith interesting, the article mentions both Hasegawa and Hobbycraft´s Bf 109Es as contemporaries, with the latter being designed with the Hase kit as its model. It also mentions about the ill-fitting canopy (something I experienced too). Thanks for the very interesting article.
Hasegawa 1:48 Fw 190A-5
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
Posted · Edited by Sturmovik
I´ll try to see if I find that grade of sand paper. How do you progress with the grades, 1000, 1500 and 2000?