Sturmovik
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Posts posted by Sturmovik
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46 minutes ago, Alan P said:
The photo of the nose was horrifying
It was horrible indeed. I then discovered I could use the cannon barrel holder to force the nose up. Now onto greener pastures with better fit.
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16 minutes ago, jackroadkill said:
Well done for beating it into shape so nicely
We can't let a piece of plastic beat us. Thanks!
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6 minutes ago, Biggles87 said:
quick
The benefits of CA as filler!
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RFI post ready!
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After fighting this kit in the early build phase, I was able to complete it to a decen standard. The difficult areas were the engine nacelles and the wings to fuselage area. The first one was solved by applying CA to the gaps, and the latter by sanding the upper portion of the wheel wells until the wings fitted without gaps. Would I build another 1:32 Me 262 from Revell? Well, now that I know the poor areas of the kit, I'd definitely give a go to the original nightfighter B-1a/U1.
If you want a better fitting kit, then the Trumpeter one is for you (and me too).
The last photo has Galland's autobiography (left) and a book about his life in Argentina (right).
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After letting the glue dry overnight, the 262 is finally able to stand on its wheels. I also glued with white glue the clear parts. RFI photos now.
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Pictures are showing as broken links on my side. Could you try to re-upload them again?
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@exdraken great to see Unc² sent you the photos. The parts look great, especially the wheels.
Here's my effort on one of the decal schemes but on the Kosmosur 3D model:
I'm still not sure if I should get one in the future.
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The landing gear has been glued. I'll let them dry before gluing the wheels and gear doors. The clear parts have been painted too, meaning the end of this build is just around the corner.
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1 hour ago, kiseca said:
The big decal on the starboard side of the tail has to cover a bump - the rudder actuator - and while trying to get it to sit flush I ruined the decal completely
Just as a heads up, try using a decal softener (such as Microsol or Mr. Mark Softer) if the decal goes over prominent bumps. I used the first one on a Revell Spitfire IX, and the decal conformed very well to the lower wing's bumps. Though I'm sure you already know this. Another trick would be to paint the marking. Takes more time, but you won't have to deal with the drying time of the softener.
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With the aircraft glossed, it was time to add the decals. I used the crosses that came with the kit, which worked perfectly. The gloss and time of day make the colours look lighter than what I assume they were.
It's now time to matt coat the model and add the landing gear, retraction arms and underwing R4M rockets..
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Just now, franky boy said:
I see the A-4M is getting another round. As said before I wish they would re release B/C versions.
James
They re-released the C last year and it sold out fast.
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Another way to get rid of wing gaps is by using a sprue to expand the fuselage outwards. That has saved me lots of filling times.
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Finished painting the upper sides of the aircraft. I'm following Eaglecals's instructions for the painting scheme, which call for the upper sides to be painted RLM 82/83, and the undersides in natural metal with RLM 76 control surfaces. The white chevrons were painted first and masked.
The paint I used needed several thin coats to build opacity. The light panel lines weren't able to take the entire coats, filling several of them in the process.
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6 hours ago, Walter said:
That's very odd the build I've seen on the internet including YouTube don't mention such an issue.
I checked a video from Scale Aircraft Modeller on YT, and he didn't have any fit problems. I must have gotten a faulty copy. There's no way something like this wouldn't have been noticed in the quality control stage by Revell.
I began the painting stage. I started by painting white the areas where the chevrons would go. I then masked those areas with masking tape and applied RLM 82. Hopefully I won't have any paint bleed into the white areas. Photos later.
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4 hours ago, Biggles87 said:
Oh dear, I won’t be getting rid of my Trumpeter kit then.
3 hours ago, Silenoz said:me neither...
You two would be making a huge mistake by getting rid of the Trumpeter kit. I remember building two of them when I was younger. They were excellent kits.
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5 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:
It's actually an old kit. I built one in the '70's and the fit was about the same.
It's not the 70's mould, it's the kit that was released after the new tool Me 262B-1a/U1. This mould is from 2019.
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48 minutes ago, Doccur said:
Iffy fit and poor moulding
What's strange is that no one has said anything about the troublesome fit. Maybe I just got a faulty copy. I'll stick to other brands for now.
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Remember when I was enthusiastic for starting this kit? That enthusiasm was waned and now I dread to keep going. This is by far the worst fitting kit I've ever built, and I still haven't reached the painting stage! The nacelles didn't fit, they don't even follow the curvature of the wing. Then I tried mating the wings and fuselage together, and had to sand down quite a lot from the wheel wells to get a decent join. The only thing that fitted nicely were the horizontal stabilizers and rudder. I still haven't sanded the outer part of the engines, which also had huge gaps.
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6 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:
Thats because its a 1970’s tooling. It was re-issued in 2018 and 2019
It isn't the 1970's tooling. It's the 2019 tooling, which came after the B-1a/U1.
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A 2019 kit with the worst fit I've ever encountered so far. I don't understand how Revell got the fit of the engines to the wings so wrong. The nacelles don't even follow the curvature of the wings, and the inner cowl doors have huge gaps. I even had to enlarge the channels where the nacelles should fit because they had extra plastic moulded into them.
Has anyone who have built this kit found the fit of the engines to the wings to be so poor? Even the old tool Hasegawa kit had better fit.
See for yourselves:
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I don't see many Bf 110s built. In any scale, from 72nd to 32nd. In 1:32, the only available kits are the old Revell Bf 110C-4/b and the family from Dragon that goes from C to D.
The Dragon kit is not easy, being very fiddly in multiple places, such as the propeller construction and engine assembly. The clear parts also come separate as 8 individual sections. The engines is where I encountered the biggest issues. If you aren't going to open the cowlings, then you can just assemble the basic engine with the arms and glue them to the landing gear bulkheads. Once that's done, make sure to glue the outer exhausts looking upward, while the inner ones point downwards. The covers for the engines were also wrongly marked in the instructions. I didn't realise this until it was time to glue everything together. But I beat the kit in the end.
I used the kit decals. The crosses were undersized. I think they'd fit better in a 1:48 kit. The sharkmouth conformed to the panel lines after using some Mr. Mark Softer.
The question is, would I build this kit again in spite of the self induced issues and poor instructions? Absolutely. In the Revell boxing of course.
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Finished!
The clear parts were a chore to put together, but I got them all in the end.
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Most time consuming pieces have been added. These were the landing gear and gear doors, bombs and propellers.
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Adlerflügel! Focke Wulf Fw 190A-3 "Black 13" (Hasegawa 1:48) Finished!
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
Posted · Edited by Sturmovik
After building Revell's 1:32 Me 262, I thought I'd start on this one.
This Fw 190A-3 is the original new tool version that would spawn so many boxings by Hasegawa. The plan is to build it as Black 13 with the Eagle Head on the nose. Decals look great on the sheet. Hopefully they won't breal when placed in warm water. The Eagle Head will also be a test to try my Mr. Mark Softer.
Here's a photo of the box.