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opus999

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Everything posted by opus999

  1. I put 3 coats of Aqua Gloss on the Tiffy today in preparation for decals. While I'm waiting for that to cure I got to paint the silver and blue bits. The silver was Tamiya TS-30 silver leaf and was applied to the usual suspects: Gears, wheels and gear doors. The Blue was for the spinner and the insides of the gear doors. Airfix called out a humbrol color, but I instead chose Mr. Color's Azure Blue. My reasoning is that Mr. Color Azure Blue best matches the checkerboard stripe decal that will go on the fuselage. The pictures I've found of this aircraft are black and white, but the spinner and the checkerboard seem to look the same. Plus, I figure the ground crew would use standard paint colors and wouldn't go through the trouble of trying to get a different blue for the spinner! I don't know if I'm right, but it seems logical. Unfortunately my camera didn't really capture the very slight lavender tinge of the azure blue. But it is a very, very close match to the decals so I'm happy. Looks like I can do decals tomorrow and maybe assemble the landing gears.
  2. I guess I haven't updated my signature. Here it is: It's progressing slowly as my Typhoon has all my interest right now, but I expect to make some progress on it late this weekend or early next week.
  3. Thanks! I'm pretty happy with it so far. Hopefully I can encourage you to dig your Tiffy out --- there can't be too many Typhoons!
  4. I can vouch for brake fluid. I used it for years and it seemed to do well taking off enamel and acrylic. Sometimes I had to let it sit for a few days. My new "go-to" is Simple Green. I mix it up about 50/50 with water and in many cases, the paint is peeling off the next morning. On occasion I've had to let it sit a few days. on my current P=51, I stripped most of the paint with Simple Green and the stubborn bits came off easily with Mr. Color levelling thinner. Looking good so far!
  5. Monday night I had a little time to mask, and Tuesday night I put the Ocean gray on. I still struggle with tone under gray colors. I think I have greens worked out, but not grays Here's what I had after marbleing: And after the masking was removed A bit washed out in the photos, but it's acceptable. Tonight I was able to get the Medium Sea Gray on. Again a little washed out. I'm anxious to get those decals on, so hopefully I can get enough gloss coats on tomorrow!
  6. Wow, this gets better and better. I agree with you about how nice the exhausts look. Very nice rigging too -- something I've never been brave enough to try. And nice save on the gunner's rail too!
  7. Not a whole lot of progress was made this week, because (as I suspected), my bench time has been severely curtailed by going back to the office. Plus, I was waiting for my landing gears and gear doors to arrive and they weren't expected until early next week. I did get the fuselage back together The top seam is pretty good and won't require much work. The bottom, though, isn't that good and will take some sanding to get into shape. After this I focused on my Typhoon build. I was surprised yesterday afternoon by the arrival of my "spare parts": Yes, this was a cheaper and more complete solution than buying after market gears. The doors can't be bought aftermarket, so I would need to fab some up, and I don't know how I would get the unique look of the inside of the main doors. Instead, I spent 10 bucks and bought this instead because pictures I'd seen on line showed the gears and doors to be at least comparable to the Monogram parts they're replacing. After my hair-pulling experience building the HB Bf109E's I figured the rest of the model would be a paint mule or something, but playing with it, I discovered that the fit is really pretty good and the shape is pretty good except for too much chord in the tail fin. I set it aside for a rainy day -- I'll probably throw it together and hang it on my kid's ceiling. The Typhoon is eating up all my time right now, but I might get some work in on this soon.
  8. As I suspected, once I went back to the office, my time at the bench has dwindled severely, so not a lot of progress has been made until this weekend. First, I put the "cuckoo door" assembly together, since that needed to be inserted into the air intake before the two halves of the fuselage were glued together. The whole thing was three pieces, the mesh, with the 3 vertical supports on top, and finally the doors. The actual cuckoo doors themselves are the blue circle, and yes, they are a little off center in this picture, but I fixed them after this picture. For all the good it did me. See... the cuckoo doors are aptly named. I just about went cuckoo trying to get these things in the intake and glued. The sides of the filter had little tabs and the really vague instructions showed (well... implied, really) that you were supposed to glue the tab to the side of the inside of the intake and then put the two fuselage halves together. I could not keep that tin little tab stuck on! Plus the whole assembly came apart at least twice. Finally, I stopped and took a hard look at the problem (which I should've done in the first place instead of trying to rely on those instructions). I realized all I had to do was put some Micro Krystal Klear on the silver circular part of the radiator and glue the mesh directly to that. Since the Krystal Klear has quite a bit of working time, that would allow me to glue the rest of the fuselage in place and move the mesh part around so that it is centered, etc. I realized that the mesh is set farther back from the opening than the pictures I found show, but hey, it was either that or my sanity and I'm quite fond of my sanity. You'll notice the bare patch where the doors came off. I'll leave them off until the very end. After that excitement I was very diligent in gluing the tops of the landing gear bays so that the were firmly connected to the wingroot part of the fuselage. I'm pretty sure this caused my step on the other Typhoon I made. If there isn't a bond at that seam, the aft parts of the landing gear bays want to naturally hang down a bit, and the gap created would result in a step where the top of the wing meets the fuselage. After that I painted the landing gear bays Saturday, I worked on putting the wings together. Again, I was really careful to make sure that all the joins were glued properly and in place. When I was done I was rewarded with no step on the starboard side, and a barely perceptible step on the port. There were some decent sized gaps in the wings, so I used putty to fill those and then used Mr. levelling thinner to smooth them out. Which explains the missing paint by the wing root: Today was painting. I'd hoped to get at least two colors on, but only got one. I used the same worn paint technique that I've used on my olive drab aircraft. First I used a base of black Mr. Surfacer 1500. All my putty work looked good, so I proceeded to paint. I used my stencils and painted the Hataka RAF dark green. That was followed by stenciled olive drab, the russian radome green in random spots and then Dark earth for sun faded areas. All of that resulted in this mess: Then I carefully sprayed on a dilute mixture of the Hataka RAF dark green as an over coat, being careful not to overdo it and wipe out my base coats, but not put enough on and ruin any realism. I think it turned out nicely, but it may not be evident in the pictures. Next, I will mask the camo and apply the topside gray. I think the marbling will include intermediate blue, a light gray blue and maybe a light gray, or maybe a tan. I don't know if I will get any time to work on it before next weekend, though.
  9. I think that's a fine scheme you've picked out. I think this will be a fun build to follow!
  10. Interesting. I've tried using the airbrush for cordite stains once and it didn't work so well. Too dark. But I like how you position the airbrush -- I assume this method does the bottom and top at the same time? What kind of paint do you use? Also, what's your magic black goop for the bottom? Thinned oil paint? I have to say the degree of realism you've achieved here is pretty impressive. i find my attempts fall a little short, and it may be just the materials I am using! It looks beautiful!
  11. This looks really fantastic! Looks smaller than a zero? Must be a small hot-rod indeed. Very nice work!
  12. I've been thinking more about this build and realized that I keep thinking that my subject has a gray bottom, when it actually has a natural metal bottom. That will make shaping closed doors out of epoxy putty difficult. Well, shaping the doors won't be all that hard, but getting it to look nice with a BMF would be more of a challenge. I can get after market gears, but they come without wheels or doors. The wheels I can get, but doors -- not really. But I have a solution, and a cunning plan. but that will be revealed when my order arrives, hopefully later in the week.
  13. That would be neat. I've never done a diorama before. I'm curious to see how I would fare. I think I neglected to say what the subject is going to be -- I plan on making it "Geronimo", which is a natural metal w/ OD uppers of the 357th squadron. Heh...yeah I should know better. But frankly, the figures I see on the parts trees lately look pretty bad, with gaping holes in their torsos from sink marks and the like. I'm not sure anyone would want them! Thanks!
  14. That looks beautifully worn! I'm glad to hear that the stencils worked for you. I know they really helped me! And I've got to thank @The Spadgent for the idea of using them. The hinamaru and the "halo" around them from the masking look really sharp! I'm looking forward to more of this!
  15. Maybe I missed it, but were those pre-cut roundel masks? If so, where did you get them? I have taken to painting my Japanese Hinamaru and would like to work my way up to painting roundels. This looks terrific so far!
  16. Thanks! The seatbelts came with the cockpit set which was an Eduard Zoom photo etch set. Sprue Brothers lists it as "EDUSS717". I bought a set of Luftwaffe and RAF steel seatbelts from Eduard a while ago and have used them on all my RAF and Luftwaffe builds. I really like the steel seat belts because they look nice and I can bend them into shape fairly easily.
  17. Mike, Thanks for these! In my research I'd seen the wikipedia article and the militaryaviationchronicles article, but didn't see the other two. The Martin-baker.com article says: Which is what I wanted to know. I just didn't know which mark of seat was installed. So, now to find one! The ww2aircraft article has a good picture of the seat, plus its a very interesting article to boot.
  18. Oh... well that's what I get for looking at wikipedia without verifying it! So, they did have the Mk.5 then. I guess I'll go with what I have.
  19. Drat. I didn't even think about it. I've only done 2 gears up models in my life, so these habits run deep. I don't think I have any pilot figures in the spares since I usually just pitch 'em. Oh, and the seatbelts on the seat are wrong too. I also realized last night that its going to look funny without a spinning propeller too. Hmm.... going to have to rethink this. I like your thinking! In both respects, but especially with the stand
  20. Oh this looks like it will be fun! Plus it will expand my knowledge since this is a topic I know little about.
  21. Well, I finally got a little time to work on this. My goal was to get the fuselage buttoned up today, but I didn't quite make it. I'm surprised at how many little time consuming tasks there are preparing the cockpit. The first thing I did was glue the seat in. There was a lot of trimming and fitting involved because I used so much tube glue when I was 13 or 14, that the mounting posts on the fuselage and the areas of the seat where they go were deformed. I had to work to get those cleaned up so I could properly attach the seat. After that I created a shelf for the radio behind the seat, dry fit it and painted it. Then, I attached the bottom part of the IP to the top part and mounted it in the fuselage. Like so: Pretty good so far! I then created a new stick, painted and installed it. Then glued the radio to the shelf I made and glued that in as well. I glued the other sidewall assembly on the port fuselage half and dry fit the two halves together. The cockpit additions look really cool -- I'm gambling that you can see them clearly through the Malcolm hood. Boy I hope it pays off! I finished the day with removing the tail wheel doors, since this will be a gears up build. I'm really pleased with how the cockpit came out. I need to have a closer look at the Eduard Zoom cockpit sets that might be available. Some of the older kits in the stash could really benefit from them. Tomorrow I hope to glue the fuselage halves together. I also need to assemble and attach the gunsight. Since this build will be on a stand and I have to fill the landing gear wells with Apoxie sculpt, I think I need to add some counter balance to the back. The putty isn't that heavy, but just to be on the safe side! Besides, I will need to sculpt the tail wheel opening to look like closed doors.
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