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Everything posted by opus999

  1. Hey, thanks for the picture!
  2. I'm calling the Frank "done"! I got through the paint chipping and a couple minor painting tasks last night, but wasn't able to post pictures since my camera battery was dead. Here's a couple more pictures until the RFI, which will probably be when the Tojo is done. Kind of hard to imagine it started out as a natural metal finish made by a 20-year-old me! Not quite a restoration on the scale of some of @Brigbeale's builds (which are a lot of fun to watch)... but I'm happy nonetheless. Tonight I started masking the Tojo's control surfaces. I got as far as the bottom before the kids appeared looking to play a card game, so I wasn't able to get the control surfaces painted. But that's OK! I'm not sure how the weekend is going to turn out since we have some in-laws visiting us from Wisconsin until next Tuesday. So the WIP may get a little lean for a couple of days...
  3. I'm getting pretty excited to see this one come together. I haven't paid much attention to the Kate until recently and I'm getting quite interested in it. Love those crew members -- they look fantastic. I admire anyone that can paint a crew and paint 'em well. I don't have the patience... I want to get on with the aircraft!! I've only done two crew members -- John Glenn in his F-86 and Baron Von Richtofen in his Albatross. Very nice work sir!
  4. +1 for this. This website is incredible. An alternative is using the navy blue that the US Navy used in WWII if you have some. Then give it a mist of black before you take the masking off. Works for me, anyway.
  5. I'm planning to do the aircraft seen here: http://www.aviationofjapan.com/2012/08/alexei-kryukovs-hasegawa-148-85th.html. When I click on the pictures for a close up the red-brown has a definite red tint to it. At least to my eyes. In part 2 of the article (http://www.aviationofjapan.com/2012/08/aleksei-kryukovs-hasegawa-148-85th.html), he says "brown blotches were mixed from Tamiya acrylics XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan, 64 Red Brown, and 68 NATO Brown". I suppose I could try mixing my own, but he doesn't give a recipe, and really it looks like the old Testor's "Rust" color (and mine dried up a couple years ago).
  6. I got through this tedium.... Sprayed it with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black, Mr. Color Olive Drab and Mr. Color dull coat. It turned out pretty good. Then it was down to the 1000 little details. I painted Mr. color Dark Earth on the exhaust: Then I added some shading around the control surface hinges. What I do is put masking along the hinge, then take a short bristled brush and use it to apply Tamiya black weathering pastel along the hinge from in a front to back motion, but only applying it to the 2 or 3 mm on the trailing edge of the hinge. I discovered a neat trick while doing this. I found that I put it on too dark on one aileron. The weathering pastel will wash off with water, but it can make a real mess. I had an inspiration and took some fresh Tamiya tape and pressed it along the dark area and when I removed it, it pulled up some of the pastel, making it lighter. I experimented with this a bit and found I could just about totally remove the pastel by applying and reapplying the tape and burnishing it. Nice trick! It allowed me to back off the darkness on the aileron I'd been a little too aggressive with. I sealed the pastel with dull coat and then used a water color wash on the landing gears and in the gear bays. I sealed those in with Testors metallizer sealer. I also painted the tail wheel bay. So after all of that, here's what I had: There were a bunch of other little details that I painted, but nothing I thought to take pictures of. They would probably be boring anyway! I realized today that I still need to mask and paint the leading edge landing light. That will be my biggest task tomorrow. The rest will be final assembly and paint chipping.
  7. Aw thanks Mark... that's ever so kind! As for the pencil technique: I've had several people mention they'd like to try it so I made sure to be pretty detailed about my technique. I was thinking about it yesterday and I believe the hardest aspect of the whole procedure is erasing the lines to make them fainter. It is so easy to wipe them out completely. I've learned how to be incredibly gentle with the eraser. I'm almost not touching the surface. Knowing where to draw the lines can be a challenge. Having charcoal rubbings of the lines at hand makes it fairly easy as you can measure from a datum (like an aileron hinge or bottom of the canopy). I found on the Frank and the P-51 that, even though I thought I had sanded that puppy smooth, I could still see faint traces of the panel lines in a bright light with some magnifiers on. That made it super-easy! Turns out I didn't use the charcoal rubbing at all. I've decided in the not-to-distant future I'm going to do the reverse and fill the panel lines on my Airfix Spitfire Mk. I and Airfix A6M2 Zero and draw the panel lines in at the end.
  8. I have the propeller color and it seems quite brown to me with only a hint of red. If it's not too much trouble to paint samples, I'd like to see them.
  9. As I'd mentioned, I did the oil paint treatment yesterday, giving the Frank various oil streaks and dirt streaks. Last night I coated it with Mr. Color GX dull coat. This morning after the dull coat had cured and hardened, I set out to re-draw the panel lines. Here's what I used: The pencil, a strip of Tamiya tape stacked 4 deep, and a brush to remove all the little eraser bits from when I erase. I put the lines on pretty dark because the tape guide will pull some of the graphite off making it lighter. Also through handling the lines get lighter too. You can see in the above pictures the small oil and dirt streaks I added yesterday. When I am done with the bottom, I go over the line very, very lightly with an eraser to tone the lines down. The graphite can be completely removed very easily so it takes a very light touch. I also need to keep in mind that the lines will appear darker when dull coated, so there is a bit of a balancing act there. Basically, the lines are very very faint when I am done with the eraser. Then I dull coat the bottom and repeat the process on the top. After that I got out the Tamiya weathering pastels and put in exhaust streaks and cordite streaks and junk from the wheels on the bottom. Here's what it looks like when the panel lines and pastels are finished. The panel lines are hard to see on top with this camera exposure, but they are faintly visible in real life. I'm a little disappointed because the underwing stains from the wheels came out a little darker than I wanted. oh well. It's seen lots of service. I also put exhaust streaks on the gear doors and panel lines on the drop tanks. I'd hoped to finish today, but was busy with other things, so maybe tomorrow. There really isn't much left to do on the Frank. The canopy, a watercolor wash on the gears and wheel bays, a few odds and ends for detail painting. Then I'll look at finishing the Tojo...
  10. Hmm... first page for once! I'm in! Terrific intro; I can always count on procopius for the appropriate context.
  11. That is simply beautiful! If that can be said of such a burly, powerful-looking aircraft! Just a gorgeous finish. How did you get the look of the exhaust stacks? I struggle with those to this day, having never found a satisfying technique to give them that slightly rusty, raw metal look.
  12. opus999

    RLM 79 confusion

    Thanks for all the informative discussion, everyone! There's too much for me to comment on, but I've found it all very informative in general. I have a good idea now about 1) why there were two RLM79s and 2) when I should use either of the two (well, roughly...).
  13. Gave the Frank the oil paint treatment yesterday, I'll post photos today. For some reason I am especially excited about the Frank. I don't know if it's because I've had the bare metal version on the shelf for years and this just something different or what. Thank you! Well, there's going to be at least one more in the near future because I have a Fine Molds Ki-100 on deck. I love this. I believe the same!
  14. Wow! That is actually quite striking. I like it! I'm somewhat ignorant about free French markings -- sometimes I see the crosses in red and sometimes in blue. Was there a reason for the different colors?
  15. Yesterday I was able to gloss coat -- 3 coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss, hand brushed -- so by about 11 PM I was ready to decal. Since I painted most of the markings on, I only had 4 markings and 4 stencils to do, which was pretty quick. I always love this stage because it can be hard to imagine exactly what the markings are going to look like together with the paint and it turned out pretty neat! The next task was one that I was dreading because I wasn't sure if I could pull it off. The decal sheet had 5 red filler cap decals, but they were used on my previous Frank build. Usually those filler caps are round, but on the Frank they're oblong. My plan was to use the dot painting technique my wife taught me, and make two dots next to each other and connect them using a hand brush. The trouble with this plan is its very difficult to get the dot exactly where you want it. And by exactly, I mean within a millimeter. So when doing single dots it works well, but putting one next to the other would be a bit of a challenge. Usually what I do is use an enamel and put it on an acrylic gloss coat, so I get several tries to get it right because I can use a mild paint thinner to clean it off and start over. So, nothing for it, but to get it done and It worked! I pulled it off! I only guffed up one pretty badly, but I was able to fix it fine. The one on the top right in the white is the one I messed up I also got part of the drop tanks painted. It takes time for the Mr. Color yellow-orange to dry for some reason, so I set them aside to dry over night. ...and painted the prop. I used FS34102 for the green. The plan is to do the oil staining now and let that dry overnight, so I'll turn my attention to the Tojo in the meantime.
  16. Another long catch-up for me. "Henry the Hernia"... Ugh. I'm sorry to hear about that!! Hopefully all is back in order now!
  17. Somehow I missed catching up with this when I resurfaced. It looks wonderful with the transfers on! I find I rather like seeing a P-40 in the British desert scheme. Hmmm.... No, no, no.... must do the ones I have in the stash! Eye of Sauron and all of that....
  18. Same here. It's such a great plane, and this is such a nice looking build of it!
  19. That's a beautiful build. I was just commenting recently that "fresh off the showroom floor" builds can be attractive builds. It probably felt funny calling it done when it felt only 80% done, though! Very nice work with the metal foil. I'm always impressed by the look of foil, but I tried it and found it so tedious that I soon moved on to something else. Happy to hear that moving went well, and I hope the new job is a good one.
  20. Not too much to report. Yesterday I painted spinners and the Frank's prop: Monday night as I was showering I realized I still needed to paint these red lines on the wings, so I masked and painted them last night. I'm glad they turned out OK! Tonight I had a couple of touch ups. There's some overspray on the bottom right of this: and there was a little "nubbin" on the right side of this Hinamaru -- very small I know, but it was noticeable... Those repairs turned out well, so it will be gloss coating tomorrow! I took a couple of minutes and used the decanted TS-30 Silver Leaf on the Tojo and took the masks off. Turned out pretty well -- there is some ridging, but I think it will be OK.
  21. This is a fun subject. I'm curious to see what you think about it since I have one in the stash -- my dad gave it to me when he was cleaning out his stash!
  22. Looks like you've got some great paint schemes going there. I like the Swiss one with all the neutrality stripes. 16. That's quite a few to finish in a short span of time... I think I might have 16 total in the stash...
  23. You're welcome! Thanks for this link, it is tremendously helpful! It seems to be fairly current based on the paints I have here at home. At least its a good starting point.
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