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Everything posted by opus999

  1. I missed this until now. Too bad! That's a beautiful aircraft and you've done a wonderful job on it. The car is pretty neat too!
  2. Just a little work last night to put it over the finish line. I did a little paint chipping, but not much as the pictures I saw of MD120 showed it wasn't too dinged up. I elected to go over the panel lines on the fuselage to get them to match the wings. Some final assembly and it was done. For some reason, despite trying to be very light with the pencil, the panel lines toward the top behind the cockpit (in the picture below) came out very dark. I'm really not happy about that, but I haven't thought of a way to lighten them up. In the end I think it turned out OK. Probably not my best work... lots of stuff went wrong ... but it looks pretty good on the shelf. I'll try to get a proper RFI out in the next couple days...
  3. I'm so close! Yesterday I completed all of the stencils. After that I did some oil wash in the wheel wells and gave it some oil stains along the bottom and various little dirt and oil streaks. After that, I gave it an initial coat of Mr. Color GX113. Today was all the little details. I painted the yellow propeller tips, which is a job where you take a ton of time to paint a very little area, which always makes it completely unsatisfying. I used water color to put a wash on the landing gears and wheels, and once dry, they got a shot of Testor's metallizer sealer. I cut the bar behind the seat out of my smallest diameter styrene rod and glued it in place (to be painted later) Then I set out to go over the panel lines. I elected to leave the panel lines on top alone because with the light color, there was already plenty of contrast. I only had to draw in the ones that had been sanded away. I just needed to make sure that I drew them in lightly so they wouldn't stand out. My weapon of choice: I did, however go over all of the bottom lines as they didn't show up at all, really. Once that was done, I used the Tamiya pastels to add dirt streaks, powder streaks, exhaust, and those panel lines behind the exhaust that I posted pictures of earlier. After that was the final coat of Mr. Color dull. Oh, yeah... I was able to draw in some wing fuel filler caps, but I didn't get any fuel stains around them because I needed a dull coat for the pencil to draw, but using an oil wash on a dull coat just makes a mess. So it will have to go without. The last thing I did was work on the landing gears. I am using some spare Eduard gears because the detail is much better than the Hasegawa gears. They need bigger holes to fit into, and for some reason it took a lot of trial and error, but I got them on finally. I really wanted to finish today, and I am awfully close, but I have some paint that is drying and, frankly, I'm just not feeling it today. We're having one of our famous dust storms, and coupled with smoke from fires in our state has made the light outside a dim, eerie yellow-tan. I took a picture out the window over my bench. It really doesn't do it justice. Makes for a very dreary day.
  4. Looking good! I love those drybrushed guns! After all this time modelling I still can't get the hang of drybrushing. I get it to work after a fashion, but not looking as nice as this!
  5. That looks really nice, and you've had some good recoveries along the way. I can't wait to see what it looks like when the masking is off.
  6. OK, Here's where I'm at... I made a jig to hold the model, used cold water with the decals and tried my hardest to get the position right on the first try. So, the good news is, the rest of the decals (minus stencils) are on. Here's how the jig was set up: You can see that I used Tamiya tape to make guides for the decals. Here is the side I started on earlier in the week: I was able to re-construct the fin flash with some Eduard decals I forgot I had. It started out with the Red/White/Blue and I just put more red and blue pieces to cover up the white. And a close up of the bad "O" -- I did a little touch up with "sky" paint, but haven't done anything about the outline yet. I dunno... it still looks crooked to me. Here's the other side The squadron code overlaps the serial number. The instructions for the kit that these decals came from have you put the squadron code over the serial number. I couldn't find any pictures of the starboard side of MD120, but I do have some of MD110, and MD111. MD110 does not have the overlap, but MD111 does. I couldn't figure out how to position them to avoid an overlap, so I went with it. The squadron codes don't look right to me on this side for some reason, even though I had the tape guides. I believe the "O" is smaller than the "NX". I started on the Eduard stencils last night ( you can see the wing walkway stripes ), but more back-to-school schedule craziness happened, so I didn't get any farther than that. Hopefully I can do some tonight....
  7. Hey, I didn't know that! Somehow I missed it in my Spitfire book. Thanks for pointing that out -- I love learning new things about these aircraft. So, I'll just need to try to accent around that cover to match the photos.
  8. I'm still pondering... I haven't been able to really do anything because school started and since they're learning from home with school-district supplied equipment, I've been playing tech support. I did have a little time to experiment with those decals. I glossed up a paint mule and used some spares from that sheet. I found that with hot water (which I'd been using) the decals stuck practically immediately. When using cold water, I had 15 - 20 seconds of working time, but the decals were very brittle and prone to breaking. So... with that in mind, I have a thought to make a jig to hold the a/c very still and try to get those decals in the right place right off the bat. I don't have much to lose at this point. Now as far as the broken up, crooked "O" goes... well... I think I could use sky to touch up some of the spots and the black outline might be fixed using my super small pencil I use for panel lines. It would still be crooked, however. So, I am debating whether or not to search for a black-lined "O", or just let it go and display the other side. I should post a photo of it for opinions. The little things always look huge to the modeller. I found I have spray dark sea blue from my Banshee build, so I wouldn't have to wait a couple weeks for paint if I want to paint the fin flash. A little more searching coughed up some fin flashes with the white stripe in the middle, but I can probably cobble something together. So, for now, I think I'll try to get the rest of the Kopro decals on. If that succeeds, then I'm home free. If not, well, I'll go searching for new decals!
  9. I read this too quick and thought it said "the guns were a blast", which seemed like a bad pun. Good to see a little progress. I know, darn work gets in the way.... oh, wait...
  10. Decals did not go well at all. The Kopro decals stick almost immediately and can't be moved or removed no matter what. I got the roundel on without problem, only because I nailed the location on the first try. The "NX" letter codes were a little crooked, but I was able to move them with a lot of effort. The "O" went on crooked and broke apart when I tried to move it. I was able to get the parts of it together with a ton of hot water and micro-sol, but there are chips missing from it that I don't know how to fix. I got to the fin flash and knew I had to be precise, so of course my finger slipped, it went on terribly crooked and it was stuck for good. I spent 4 or 5 minutes trying to move it, or get it to come up and little pieces kept breaking off. I finally had to give up and sand it off. So I'm stuck. I spent the whole evening trying to find decals for a Mk. VII. I really want to continue with JJ O'meara's, but I was desperate enough to use anything. But aside from another set of kopro decals, there was nothing. Not even a Italeri Mk. VII kit. I don't know what to do. The one squadron code letter looks really bad and I'd like to do it over, but I couldn't find black outlined squadron codes. I could probably paint the fin flash, but I'll need to order some insignia blue, so no matter what the build is on hold. Plus, I don't know if I want to continue on with the Kopro decals. It seems likely that more of them will get messed up. I've been racking my brain trying to come up with a solution, but haven't. My spare decal box didn't generate anything useful. I thought about painting the roundels, but I don't think I have good enough equipment to make masks... and there's still the issue of the squadron codes. So I really am at a loss how to fix this.
  11. Looking ahead to wear and weathering, I've been looking for some pictures of MD120, or Mk.VIIs with similar paint schemes, for a while now. Not many to find, but I think I have a good idea of how to proceed. First, I noticed in the pictures I already posted, there is some staining around the aft part of the panel covering the fuel tank in front of the cockpit. Maybe even a little staining from something running down from it. In this picture, there are a lot of dark panel lines just behind the exhaust. This seems characteristic of Mk.VIIs with this paint scheme, but this is the most extreme I've found: This one shows the same, but is mostly covered by the wing: Same, but not nearly as dark. I also have noticed in these last two pictures that the exhaust staining is not nearly as dark as the first picture. Same observations here: I haven't found any pictures that show the tops of the wings or the walkways, but I suspect they will be grubby. There's a reason why you don't put a white carpet in a house full of kids!
  12. I seem to notice details after I'm done too. That's a bummer.
  13. Also, notice that the glass on the rear part of the canopy goes down farther on the fuselage than other spitfire marks. This seems to be specific to the the Mk. VII (maybe the Mk. VI too, I'm not sure).
  14. Lots going on today, but I was able to take a few minutes to spray the silver bits and the canopy (dry fit here) I used precut masks for the canopy and wheels. Worth every penny! Applying the masks goes so quickly and easily... I really wouldn't want to go back to cutting my own! Many Mk. VIIs had a triangular vent window (I think that's what it was) on the forward port side of the canopy. However, the picture I posted earlier of MD120 shows that missing. I have mixed feelings about that -- It would've been neat to show that because it is a different feature from other Spitfire marks, and it would've been an interesting challenge. But on the other hand, not having it makes things a lot easier. Maybe tomorrow I can start decals.
  15. This looking terrific! You've done a lot of research and I'm learning a lot from this build. I'm glad you decided to use an aftermarket nose -- I did the Hobby Boss P-40M and the OOB nose still drives me crazy. I may have to take it out of the cabinet and replace it. I'm curious to see how the canvas in the wheel wells work out. I love P-40's and have a few in the stash, so I'm taking notes!
  16. I found a little time yesterday afternoon to finish painting the bottom. Since then I've put 3 coats of aqua gloss on with a hairy stick. I'm waiting for it to cure and I will be able to do decals. I have the decals from the Kopro release of NX-O and a new set of Eduard stencils, which will take a couple of hours because there are so many (I've been down this road before... can you tell?). In the meantime, If I have the time, I still need to spray the undercarriage and paint the tires. Oh, yeah... and the canopy too.
  17. Made quite a bit of progress yesterday! First off I got it ready to paint: That involved a lot more smoothing and fixing a major error on my part. I was using a spare fuel filler cap from one of my Eduard builds. I did the same thing with my Mk. VIII build, which went swimmingly, but not so much here. After drilling the same size hole as for the Mk. VIII, I pressed the cap in and "Crack!" the whole top of the a/c forward of the cockpit split open. Easily fixed, but it took more time. The fuel cap turned out to be a huge pain for some reason, but it all worked out in the end. Also, I fabricated the Lobelle hood tracks from sheet styrene, matching as best I could the close-up picture I posted earlier. After that, I primed everything (the grey on the starboard wing is sunlight) and applied the sea gray on top. The pictures of MD120 I've seen don't show it to be terribly weathered, so I went easy with the pre-shade marbling (That is, there is minimal contrast). After that was dinner and our family movie night, however after the kids went to bed I had about a half hour or so and was able to start applying the bottom color before I became too tired. It is a mix of 5 parts Model Master Intermediate Blue, with one part blue to about 15 parts leveling thinner. I have become spoiled with Gunze and Hataka lacquers. The Model Master enamel wanted to fight me all the way and I couldn't get the super fine lines needed to make a good pre-shade marbling. Luckily, my approach on this build minimizes that marbling so the end result is satisfactory. But it reminds me about how much I used to hate airbrushing before I discovered lacquers!
  18. I wouldn't have room to hang them up, but I'd buy some anyway!
  19. Well, I ended up getting one before I knew what was wrong with it. With my limited knowledge, I think it is closer to an A-7. I base that on the guide at IPMS Stockholm. The hobby boss kit lacks the rectangular shaped blisters on the upper wing aft of the outboard cannon. The instructions have you put the pitot tube next to the starboard outboard cannon rather than at the wing tip, although it's a butt join so you could put it at either location, I suppose. I could be wrong, though -- I'm still learning about FW's. If I am wrong about any of this, please don't hesitate to let me know. As an example of the archer hitting everywhere but the bullseye: The two paint schemes included in the hobby boss kit are Emil Lang's A-5 and Walter Nowotny's A-5. So in short, the kit is labeled as an A-6, with an A-7 body and A-5 paint schemes! I've put this project on indefinite hold anyway because it looks like the scheme I wanted to do is fictitious anyway.
  20. I just now found this thread. You've done some great work so far on this one, Steve. I like your fix for the intake; it looks like it worked well, although the latest photos don't show it too well. I did a deep-dive into Typhoons and Tempests a while back when I did my Airfix 1/72 Typhoon (wonderful kit, that). Those were two types that, despite my love of WWII aircraft since childhood, somehow got past me. Well, I discovered that they are both "handsome brutes". I fancied making a 1/72 Typhoon, but I haven't taken the plunge because I'm unsure of the quality of kits available. The most recent seems to be an Academy, but they seem like more "miss" than "hit". Good to hear the old Heller/Airfix is a good kit. Anyway, I'll enjoy seeing this one get over the finish line.
  21. I only just now saw this thread. It's entertaining to say the least. Too bad it's such a dog of a kit, but I think it looks marvelous none the less!
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