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Everything posted by opus999

  1. I'm still trying to wrap up the Yak...
  2. Cheers for that! I've seen a photo of that airframe at the museum before, but not these. They will be helpful because I'm trying to figure out all the little antennas that are on the aircraft. It's interesting that the colors of this museum example are different than the operational ones I found pictures of (like here: https://russianplanes.net/id24849). The Begemot decal instructions said this example got the 4 color camo, and then it was repainted just before being put on display, so that might explain why the colors are different.
  3. Nice work on the fairing. I've really liked the look of the Mk. XIV for a long time, and now I've got a bunch of builds to watch! yay! Maybe I ought to join in the fun too...
  4. I spent a couple hours "finishing" off the decals. No pictures to show, really because the remainder of the decals were stencils. I say "finishing" because I'm not really finished. I had forgotten to gloss coat the rocket pods and the various bay doors so I did that and will complete those decals tomorrow, probably. I also plan to put a protective gloss coat on the whole aircraft tomorrow, so Tuesday will be oil wash and weathering. It would be nice to finish before Thursday because next weekend is all accounted for, but we'll see...
  5. Liquid Gravity... I've heard of it. I should look into that. It seems an easier solution than cutting weights into small pieces and then drowning them in epoxy. I've had a couple models in my life where I had just a hair too little nose weight. I found if I sanded the main wheels a little flat on the bottom, that would keep it on its nose. So that's an option if need be.
  6. Those lading gears look very realistic! The brake line additions are great. I wish I could get wash to behave as well as that on my builds!
  7. Interesting research so far! I'm keen to see how it progresses. Nice work on the body too, the resin aftermarket looks great.
  8. I didn't have any time to post this week, but did have a little time to work on this. Monday and Tuesday I penciled in the panel lines using a schematic I have that matches well with close-up walkaround photos. I found the pencil worked fine on just the Mr. Color paint, which meant I didn't have to spray a dull coat on. That made me happy since I don't want to put more overcoats on than necessary. The drawback to drawing directly on the Mr. Color is that it comes off much easier. If you aren't familiar with how I use a pencil for panel lines, I draw the panel line on with no care taken to how dark it is. Then, I go over it very carefully and very lightly with the eraser to dial it back to where I feel it is believable. I've found this is faster and more controllable than trying to lightly draw them on and not mess with the eraser afterwards. Well, with the Mr. Color, I had to recalibrate how lightly I went over it with the eraser because it didn't take much to completely remove them. Still, I'm pretty happy with how they turned out: Next up on Wednesday night was all the masking for the metal parts. A half-hour of masking, 2 minutes of painting. Well, the exhaust area took a little more, so maybe 10 minutes of painting. In the photo above, you can see where I masked the plate for the IFF antennas on the nose and the antenna just forward of the tail fin. And below, of course, is the exhaust area I used Mr. Color super stainless for all the metal parts, because it seemed to best match the walkaround photos I've seen. On the exhaust area I used Alclad Burnt metal, with Alclad jet exhaust on top of it: I thought I was free to start decals on Thursday night, but realized I forgot the metal at the opening of the intakes. Plus I had to fix the off-center dielectric panel on the nose. Here's a shot of the masking (after I painted and remembered I hadn't taken a picture! ) I also hand painted the white panels on the tail, which my reference says are RSIU short wave ground control system aerials. I had to hand paint them because I didn't have the ability to mask them. I had left the panel lines for those, but even so, they were difficult to paint and didn't come out well. Normally I paint these kinds of features with enamel over the aqua gloss and then use a toothpick to clean it up. In this case all I had was Mr. Color Lacquer and it softens up the aqua gloss, so cleaning up with a toothpick can make an even bigger mess if you're not careful. In the end they turned out just OK. They look fine from arm's length so I guess I'm satisfied. You'll notice I didn't zoom up too far on those... I also hand painted the little white nubbins on the back of the aircraft (my references says they are rear radar warning antennae (sides) and an IFF aerial (bottom): Friday we took the kids to a water park down in Oregon (aside: for living in a an area that collectively has almost 200,000 people, it amazes me that I have to travel an hour to a town of 17,000 people to go to a water park with water slides. In all fairness there are water slides here in the Tri-Cities, but they belong to fitness clubs that you have to be a member of to use ). So, that evening, there wasn't much motivation to hit the bench. Saturday i put on decals and got about 2/3 of them on. There are a lot of stencils (over 100). I debated whether to put them on, but my reference photos are inconclusive, so I opted for detail. Getting close now! I think I can finish the decals today. Then it's weathering which will be on the light side, only because I'm not sure how often the aircraft was used after being turned over to Ukraine. I need to work on the landing gears. I broke one when I was removing the paint. It is broken right where it connects to the wheel, so I need to think about how to fix it. I also plan to run hydraulic lines on them. After that, it will be down to details.
  9. That is fabulous! The lighting really makes it look both incredible and realistic. The diorama you set up is really great... the Tusken Raider and Bantha are a nice touch.
  10. Not my usual scale, but I think this is a terrific looking aircraft, so I'll follow along if I may. Cockpit looks great!
  11. Just found this... I have the 1/72 version of the Academy Mk. XIV. I've wanted to build one for a long time. I think the 1/72 version has the same issues as the 1/48. In the end I had someone here at BM recommend the Sword kit. I was going to excess the Academy, but I can't let plastic go to waste, even if it is inaccurate, so I chose some spare decals and at some point plan to just build it and put it in the back of the cabinet. I'll have a look at some of the notes there are about correcting it -- maybe I'll try some of that. Ironically, the kit had a sheet of paper in it bragging about how accurate the model is and how they used laser scanning of a real Mk. XIV to get the kit exactly right. My lady doth protest too much?? I'm excited to see yours come together.
  12. The P-39 will be interesting! I bought this kit more than a couple years ago. Every time I think about building it, I remember all the reviews I read about how hard it was to keep it from tail sitting, and I put it back. I'm a bit intimidated by trying to cram all the weight in. The Dominican Republic camo is fascinating. Can't wait to see that wrap up!
  13. Good idea! Thanks for that. I'm happy to hear that, i filled panel lines on my last 2 builds with CA and am very tired of sanding, to say the least.
  14. Thanks Mark, I really like it too... aside from my confusion and frustration with the pattern.
  15. Wow, that is beautiful! The rigging really adds to the realism. I was intrigued by your mention of PE rigging; is it just long sheets of PE "threads" specially built for this kit? As always, a wonderfully realistic build... and a fun thread to follow!
  16. WOW!!! This is going to be fantastic! The videos are a nice touch -- they really help visualize the final product.
  17. I don't mean to cause any thread drift, but I recently bought some clear resin and a curing lamp with the idea that it would make filling "oops"s and panel lines (*cough* Airfix *cough*) easier than my current, tedious, method of CA and sanding. Now I am reading about shrinkage and cracking and dissolving... Which is causing me to wonder if these are things I need to worry about if using the resin for my intended purpose? Given my experience with other materials, I suspect a lot of this comes down to a combination of resin thickness and cure time (which I think has been explicitly stated above). So I guess my questions are: Should I expect difficulties with shrinkage and cracking with panel line filling, what cure times should I use, and Is there such a thing as too much curing? Back to our regularly scheduled program. Thanks for the detailed posts Johnny, they're fascinating even for a non-3D print guy like me!
  18. Yeah, it sure seemed to improve things. I think I would've come around to changing that dark blue at some point, though, because it was really bugging me. So, as promised, I did some touch up and had to paint a curious little strip of intermediate blue. The three photos I have are: 1) side view port side, 2) side view starboard side and 3) oblique view from behind the port side, with the a/c wings folded. That means that the area where the fuselage curves down on the starboard side is not visible. For the life of me, I studied those photos and just couldn't reconcile how that weird little strip connected with the other parts of the camo. The strip curves down toward the leading edge of the starboard wing, but that would connect with the other intermediate blue coming over the middle of the fueslage and that's not what I see in the picture. Also in the picture there is a strip of the lightest gray coming over the middle of the fuselage that I don't have on my scheme, and that I can't really see in the oblique view. Weird. I scratched my head for quite a while and just decided to make the strip of intermediate blue a "blob" that doesn't connect to the wing. It doesn't match the picture, and that totally drives me nuts, but I didn't know what else to do. So here it is with all the masking in place for the touch ups and the mystery strip. Then it was time for more masking. This time it was for the painted-over Soviet navy flags. For the overpainted stars on the tail fin, I just did free hand. After that I masked to paint the bottom, where I used Mr. color IJA gray: and the various dielectric panels, which i painted a Mr. Color off-white (which has an FS number, but I don't recall what it is right now): The end result of today's work: I really like how it looks. The camo pattern continues to bother me though. I wish I could put together a pattern to fit what I see in the photos, but it is just not coming to me. I hate it when I am certain something is wrong, but I can't figure it out. Well, Maybe I don't want to figure it out because I'd have to paint it a 3rd time... Anyway, I plan to do things in a little different order on this build. I plan to dull coat next, to provide a surface for my pencil to mark, and then I will draw panel lines. I fully realize that there will be decals that will need panel lines on top of them, and I will have to do that as well. The reason why I am panel lining now, is so that I get all the various access doors, etc. so I can position the stencils correctly. On the Hobbycraft build I had to do some careful estimation of where various access panels were when I was putting decals on, and then had to draw the panel lines around them. It made the job much slower, difficult and error prone. After the dull coat and drawn-on panel lines, I will protect the pencil lead with a spray on semi-gloss, and then apply my aqua gloss for decals as I normally do. I figure I can at least get a start on drawing on panel lines tomorrow.
  19. Progress at last today! First off, I discovered my bottle of FS15042 on the shelf downstairs when I was collecting supplies. If that was there, what was I using?? I was using Mr. Color Midnight Blue. No wonder it looked black!! Ugh... First thing I did today was put primer on the areas that had been sanded clean. You might notice a little black behind the intakes. That's because I originally planned to paint the blow in doors behind the intakes, but forgot. This time I painted black, and will put masks over the black. I saw a guy, somewhere on the web, who had a Revell kit like this and he cut the blow in doors out. I figured if he could do it then I could do it and attempted it on the HobbyCraft build. Well, let's just say that I made such a mess of it, that filling the mess I made back in and painting the doors instead was a much better proposition! So, without further ado... here's the masked doors and anti glare: I first painted a uniform coat of the FS15042, which I could tell immediately was the right color. Still, I decided to mist Cobalt blue on it to push it even more to the blue side because I figured the contrast with the lighter colors might make it look too dark. Then came masking. Having found actual photos, I discovered that the diagram that came with the decals was incorrect. I tried to get as close to the photos as possible, but I found that I didn't have enough angles to really figure out how the camo went around the top to the starboard side, so I had to make an interpretation. The other problem was this kit's dimensions are inaccurate, so the demarcation between colors on my model doesn't always go where it should because a feature (e.g., a door, or a fin) wasn't where it should be. Disappointing, yes, but in the end I managed something that looks relatively accurate. Sprayed on the intermediate blue ...and more masking. Same difficulties. But in the end It came out much better than the original job. This looks right to me, and it compares very well, color wise, to the photos I have. I think the light gray could stand to be a little darker, but y'know what? I'll live with it!! More painting to come: I have a couple touch-ups and there's an odd sliver of intermediate gray that needs to go just below the starboard anti-recirculation fence. I also have to paint the patches that the Ukranians painted when they covered the old Soviet symbols (e.g., the naval flag). with my new pictures I found that those patches are a noticeably different color... which to me looks remarkably like straight FS15042, so that's what I'm going to use. After that it's the bottom, the off-white dielectric panels and then the metal bits.... All in all a good day though.
  20. It never fails that I find more pictures late in the game. The one picture I had was of number 40, but I found 3 pictures of number 83 (the one I am modeling) -- 2 color and one b/w. One of the photos is here: https://russianplanes.net/id24849 and it shows the colors very well. Together with the other photo (taken of the opposite side), I discovered a couple of things. 1) The camouflage pattern shown by Begemot is accurate except for the starboard side toward the front intake 2) the dark blue that Begemot calls for is too dark -- which i already thought anyway -- and needs to be just a little more blue. On top of that, the light gray I used seems too light. I almost wonder if I grabbed the wrong bottle. It was supposed to be FS36270, which is a neutral gray, but it seems much lighter, both when held next to the bottle cap, and held next to other models with the same color. I had thought about fixing the dark blue with masking and misting blue over it (like I did with my HobbyCraft build), but I realized I had other painting tasks (like the repairs) that together would be tedious and time consuming. It occurred to me it would be faster and easier to start over with the painting. So, that's my plan. I'll over coat the whole thing with the FS15042 dark blue, mist the cobalt blue over it until the shade is right and then mask and paint the intermediate blue. Finally, I'll mask and paint the light gray, but I'll use RAF medium sea gray, which seems like a close match to the photos (and isn't that far off from the neutral gray I was supposed to use). The underside color in the photos is much lighter than the gray that Begemot calls for so I have a couple of candidates to choose from. Don't think I'll be able to work on it tonight, so look for an update tomorrow.
  21. Looking at the only photo I've found of the plane this is based on, I think the dark blue (FS25042) is too dark. I thought it looked pretty striking, but it seemed too dark. Now looking at the photo, it seems like it should be something like a dark sea gray. The dark blue looks almost black and the photo doesn't show a contrast as great as that. The other two grays look right, though. Examining the camo pattern, I think it will be fairly straightforward to mask the dark blue and over paint it with gray. At least I hope. Well, I can't work on it until tomorrow night any way, I wish I could post the photo, but now I can't find it on the interwebs. Any thoughts out there?
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