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RC Boater Bill

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Everything posted by RC Boater Bill

  1. It depends on what you want as a result. I wanted a line up of colorful planes, to showcase the different ways the plane was painted. I don’t care about making exact replicas- not doing turnbuckles or cocking levers on guns- so I went with 1/72 scale. Plus, my goal is to eventually hang them in a mobile over my desk… This would be too expensive, take too long to build, and take up too much room in a larger scale… ( I have four more Dr.1s to do, plus another ten Albatroses.)
  2. I went ahead and experimented with a new (to me) technique: Base coat: Vallejo desert tan primer, which is more of a beige than a tan. Wood grain: Tamiya tan, applied with a short, stiff brush. Overcoat: a couple of light coats of Tamiya clear yellow. I decided to try this because the only artist’s oils I had were very dark browns. I tested the technique on a piece of styrene sheet doing just small areas. It looked good, and dried quickly, which I liked. I experimented with a drop of Tamiya retarder now and again, to change the way the paint flowed, which worked- I got variations in the intensity and definition of the effect, which looked more realistic to my eye. Encouraged by these results, I went ahead and tried it in Sigmann’s Albatros D.V, which only has a small amount of exposed wood. I masked off a couple of panels at a time, so I could get slightly different results on each one. That was definitely worth the effort! Not the best photo, but it gives you an idea of how it turned out…
  3. This is how I build four Eduard 1/72 Albatros D.V kits at the same time, in four different schemes. In the early stages, I mass-produced sub assemblies- painted all eight fuselage interiors, built 4 engines, and four cockpits. I then assembled all four fuselages, then attached the bottom wings. TIP: the wing cutouts on left and right fuselage halves kit are not even- the right side is not deep enough. I needed to remove almost a sixteenth of an inch to get the wing to be horizontal. Once the lower wings were set, it was time to send each plane back to its respective box. The “red” scheme is easiest to paint with the rudder attached, and no stab. The green scheme is the opposite- it will be easier to mask with the stab in place and no rudder. Sigmann’s plane, and the blue one are best painted with both tail surfaces in place. Two of the top wings need to be painted with an undercoat for lozenge, while the other two get lilac&green camo. Segmenting the parts in individual boxes at this point helps to ensure the right number of wheels and struts get painted the right colors- and that I am efficient in my painting, by having (only) the right two boxes at hand when it is time to do wing camo, for instance.
  4. Wow- those are 1/72 builds? I’m impressed! I’d say that is proof the “WnW Technique” will work in 1/72!
  5. How do you paint wooden Albatros fuselages in 1/72 scale? I’ve alway used the “tan or light brown acrylic base coat with darker brown artist’s oils on top” technique, as documented on the WnW site (and many others). I have had great success in 1/32 and even 1/48 scale with this technique. It works OK-ish for me in 1/72 too, on small pieces such as struts, props, etc. I now have about a dozen 1/72 Albatros to build, and some of them will be in schemes with partial or full varnished wood fuselages. I’m a little concerned that my usual technique isn’t fine enough to do such larger sections in the smaller scale- that the effect will look “overdone”. My sense is that Albatros fighters were built from a lighter colored, finer gained wood- like baltic birch. There’s a fine grain there, perhaps too fine to replicate in paint in 1/72? Maybe I should just paint the a few of the panels in slightly different shades of a light yellow-ish tan, and just add a hint of a little slightly darker streaking - some vertical, some horizontal. (To suggest a hint of a grain direction.) Or maybe I’m over- thinking this…..! So I’m curious as to what other builders are doing…… - Bill
  6. Does anyone put bulkheads inside fuselages or ribs inside wings to strengthen them and help them keep their shape? (An occasional “stick and tissue” builder asks…)
  7. After a couple of weeks away from the bench, I’m back at it again. Started on some more “Colorful WW1 Fighters” for my growing collection. This time it will be four of the Eduard 1/72 Albatros D.V Weekend Edition kits. I’ve done some priming and parts cleanup so far- nothing really photo worthy yet…. This recent release comes with a huge decal sheet. I’ll be doing two of the kit schemes (top row), and using the lozenge for two others. The decals for the one with all the little stars comes from a 20-year-old Eduard Profipack kit. But I’m going to go with a dark blue fuselage instead of black- as shown in the Wingnut Wings “Bavarians” kit. (Eduard sometimes missed with the colors in some of their older kits— I trust WnW’s more recent research more.) The green and white one was picked because it is colorful, and doesn’t have any markings that can’t be masked and painted…
  8. Am I correct in thinking this kit comes with injected clear parts, and not vac forms? I’d love to add one of these to my 1/72 USCG collection…
  9. Very nice! That tail-on view shows you got it all perfectly aligned! (That can be a real challenge with this kit!). I also really like the subtle shading you did on the wings— how was that accomplished?
  10. That’s why I build them all with pilots…. Here’s a (poor) shot of my current mobile…
  11. Added two new builds to my collection of colorful triplanes in 1/72: #9 is an Eduard kit in the markings for Hans Pippart of Jasta 19. I cut the masks for the yellow dots on my Cameo4 cutter. #10 is the (newer) Revell kit, as Bruno Loerzer’s plane from JG III. This one is a personal milestone for me- no decals! All the markings were masked and painted. I’ve been learning to use the Cameo4 to make masks, for some of my earlier build, but this is the first to use only home made masks for all the markings… Here’s all ten. #9 is the black one with the yellow dots. The first eight have been posted here before…
  12. Recently, I picked up five copies of the recent Eduard 1/72 Albatros D.V Weekend Edition. That kit is a great deal! For $12 USD, you get a WE edition with decals for four colorful schemes, three of which I’ve never seen offered in 1/72 ( kit or aftermarket decals)!! Plus, one of them is with lozenge wings, so you get a full set. I have already started prepping four of them to build. My plan is to build between 8 and 10 of them, to make a colorful collection to go with the 10 Dr.1s I’ve already done…..
  13. Finished two more Eduard 1/72 builds: Red: Manfred von Richtofen, Jasta 11 Black: Hans Pippart, Jasta 19 (I figured it was finally time to do the “cliche” MvR all red plane….it was easy to paint!) I have four more to do- I’m going to need a bigger backdrop!
  14. I’ve been very busy with work and spring projects- haven’t had much hobby time at all. But I did finally get time to install the acrylic windows…. Last night I installed them, using a mix of white canopy glue mixed with some Vallejo flat black paint as an experiment. It worked well, leaving a dark grey edges around the clear pieces. ( I do have one edge to clean up, by wicking in a bit of paint from the outside.) The only other work done so far was making the floor and rear bulkhead from sheet styrene. (The kit provides paper templates in the instructions.)
  15. I tried using Micro Crystal Clear to make a trial fuselage window- didn’t like how it came out at all. So on to “Plan B”. I thought I’d try making some windows out of clear acrylic sheet. I have some 2.5mm thick leftovers from a display case I made- it is just about the same thickness as the resin fuselage sides. I’m a member of our local Maker Space, so this morning I popped over there to use the laser cutter. It only took about 15 min to cut a bunch of perfectly square little 7mm pieces. I think I’ll try mixing some flat black paint into some canopy glue to install them- the hope is that will simulate the black outline from the rubber gaskets used on the real aircraft….
  16. Sign me up! I have just started parts cleanup on an old Revell 1/72 Sikorsky HH-3E. I’ll be using the Air Graphic Models conversion to make it into a US Coast Guard HH-3F Pelican. It is a fairly simple conversion- delete the refueling probe, add a nose radar, modify the sponsons, new tail rotor, add the FOD shield in front of the engine intakes.
  17. Doing more test fitting with the parts, it seems that if I use the cockpit floor in the nose, and the cabin floor aft, that it properly sets the fuselage sides at the correct width. This leaves me with a wedge-shaped gap from zero at the aft end to about 2mm at the bow*. The idea of making a long, curved wedge/shim out of styrene doesn’t appeal to me- getting the taper just right would be a challenge. The cockpit floor is a thick, sturdy piece. I’m thinking I could glue the fuselage together, joining the parts at the aft end directly, and using the cockpit floor as a spacer to set the angle correctly. Once that cures, I’d now have a small canyon to fill. I’m wondering if an epoxy putty like Milliput or Green Stuff would work here. I could pack the seam from the inside, and then sculpt the “vee” bottom on the hull from the outside. I have never used either product before, but I have watched a few videos online. I understand they are similar, but with some different properties which may make one more suitable for my model. I’m unsure which would be best for an application like this: Milliput Super Fine or Green Stuff? Any advice from those who have done this sort of thing before? -Bill * - (I’m finding it easier to use ship terms when talking about the flying boat part of the fuselage.)
  18. OK, first goof made. I was test fitting the hull halves, and noticed the mating edges weren’t quite true. So I taped some sandpaper to a flat surface and sanded them a little to true them up. I think I was a little over zealous, as now the cockpit floor is too wide. I was about to sand it down a little so it would fit, when it occurred to me I should check to see if it is really the floor or the hull that is off. A quick check with the canopy tells me that the floor is right- the hull needs to be wider. Guess I’ll need some styrene strips to fatten up the hull a little..... at least I caught it before I made a small error worse!
  19. I have started work on the kit, giving everything a bath, and cutting the larger parts off the pour stubs. Here are the main fuselage pieces. The windows were filled in with a very thin skin of resin. I had cut a few away before I saw the note in the instructions that implied they could have been left in place if I didn’t want to glaze the windows later. (Too late, but wouldn’t have done that anyways!) The windows are about 9-10mm square- I guess I will need to figure out what to do to fill them! I’m not sure that the PVA canopy cement glazing trick will work on such a large (to me, anyways) hole..... I’ve rough cut away the resin for the windows on the left side piece- still have one left to do on the right side, aft of the doorway.
  20. Thanks! That lilac-trimmed one seems to generate the most questions. I hadn’t seen one like that before, either, until I found this for Rudolph Stark, Jasta 34b: https://www.google.com/search?q=rudolf+stark+fokker+dr.1+jasta&client=safari&hl=en-us&ei=p9d8YLjfEO3s_QaFjpm4BA&oq=rudolf+stark+fokker+dr.1+jasta&gs_lcp=ChNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwEAMyBwghEAoQoAE6BAgAEB46AggpOgUIIRCgAToFCCEQqwI6BggAEBYQHlC3UFj_pgFgqasBaABwAHgAgAG7AYgBxRSSAQQyMC43mAEAoAEBwAEB&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#imgrc=Af1zj-C10HFDtM I know the above link is from a flight simulator game site- I don’t consider them valid references on their own. But it seemed like a reasonable interpretation of the photos of Stark’s 148/17, as posted on fokkerdr1.com. I also found some corroboration on another site (Aerodrome, maybe?) but I don’t remember for sure which one now..... The scheme seemed reasonable, given that Lilac seems to be the commonly accepted color for the trim on Stark’s later Fokker D.VII mounts....
  21. I’m new to the GB thing... I just joined my first one recently- the Anything but Injected build that is underway now. The resin model I selected also qualifies for the “Unarmed” build that is starting up. Is it bad form to post the same build in both threads?
  22. Count me in! I’m building a collection of colorful 1/72 WW1 fighters, I’ve got 4 more Eduard Dr.1s in the stash still to do, plus two more Eduard D.VIIs yet to do....
  23. One minor correction: the US Coast Guard is Military, not Civil....
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