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Chrissy_J

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About Chrissy_J

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  1. Having spent some frustrating hours looking for the reference that suggested Light Sea Grey I must concede to defeat. Every reference I find says Neutral Grey. I'd absolutely do a comparison test, painting each colour before committing myself.
  2. Looking at my notes, I did my D-Day C-47 underside in Tamiya XF-25 Light Sea Grey mixed 2:1 with XF-2 Flat White, and I'm very pleased with it. It has a faint bluish tinge, I'm not a rivet counter and I think it's just right. I'm not sure how I came to that decision though, but I would definitely have found that suggestion online.
  3. You did well there. It's a good kit too. When I attempted this kit I knew the decals were beyond my skills at the time so my version is a plain black 'test bike' with just a few sponsor logos.
  4. You can get some of these as pdf downloads from mxdoc.com, among others sources, but their legality is in dispute as they have been uploaded by private individuals without copyright permission.
  5. I'm not enamoured with those colours on the real thing, but you've reproduced them really well. You've had a really good result all round, especially given the tribulations it caused you.
  6. Chrissy_J

    IPA Dilution

    I think I'd be concerned with what 70% IPA is diluted =with= ... it might not be very nice for your paint or kit. If you're just using it for cleaning then I don't suppose the purity matters, but my supplier does 99.9% cheaper than 70%, so that's what I buy. For airbrush cleaning I prefer a 5% by volume solution of ammonia in distilled water, it's loads cheaper than IPA.
  7. I am aware of motorcycles being carried as cargo for the use of AFV crewmen and I think there's enough contemporary evidence in photographs and memoirs to provide reference for a model. US forces were particularly noted for repurposing German vehicles. Yes, motorbikes are heavy, but the benefits of having it, especially if it's 'buckshee', probably outweigh the effort of lifting it onto the vehicle.
  8. My first thought was of an armoured driver training vehicle, like a turretless Chieftain. Then I looked into something a bit earlier, like a training vehicle used by the German Panzerarmee - a fahrschulwanne. A different approach is a civilian driving school car, or truck if I can get one cheap. But I haven't decided and I'm a bit lacking in motivation at the moment so I'm not making any firm choice right now. I'll put something together though, don't want to let the side down...
  9. I guess I'm in the small minority in that I don't really know what I'm going to build... not an aircraft, though, unless I'm completely out of ideas.
  10. I built this kit about a year ago, nothing fancy just OOB. Good fun, and the first time I used modern metallic paint - AK Extreme Metal's Aluminium, I think. The simplicity of the kit and the two coloured plastics were a flashback...
  11. You did well to score that for fifteen quid! If I'd known about it I'd have been in competition with you... As for me, I've just bought another Lotus Super 7, the Tamiya 1/24 kit, from eBay. Sadly, not as cheap (at £26) as the last one I bought, but I had to have it.
  12. Vallejo Acrylic Metal Color is what you're thinking of. I have this, and the AK Extreme Metal.
  13. Chrissy_J

    Tinting Clear Parts

    I must remember this for my own use...
  14. That's a damn fine idea, and one I can easily try - I just bought a set of punches for work. Thanks!
  15. It's not recommended to spray =anything= when the air temperature is as low as you have, except maybe de-icer... You need a warm space to work in, even if it's a clean cardboard box. The lightbulb method suggested above is good, and you could try a small fan heater pointed into the cavity to warm the area, removing it when you work. It would do no harm to gently warm the model, either.
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