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About Sting67

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    Duesseldorf, Germany

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  1. Beautiful build and a very patient and efficient mastering of the occured modelling disasters. And of course from my side... a very Happy Birthday to you! Cheers Ramon
  2. I had the same many years ago when I was priming a Blackbird. I tried several gloss black brands and the result was always semi-gloss. I then gave up working on that model because it was the inaccurate Hasegawa SR-71 anyway. About half a year ago I wanted to overspray the roof color of a model car to gloss black. I used Alclad II black primer. Again, a semi-gloss finish. I'm not very experienced with airbrushing so I researched and found out one very important thing. It seems to be e very easy to avoid issue. The key is the distance you keep to the object when airb
  3. Hi Bill, with great interest I'm following several of your builds, mostly as a still reader/watcher. Looks like you are not sure about if scratch building a leading edge landing light or not, since there are no many reference pics. Unfortunately, I don't have reference material of this specific aircraft, but I found something interesting that maybe could help you. There is (or was) an aircraft add-on for the Microsoft Flight Simulator X (FSX) https://www.mutleyshangar.com/reviews/ag/e10a/e10a.htm The add-on is made by Just Flight that uses to
  4. Thanks for the valuable info! The decals look very good on the model. What resolution do you use for printing out the decals, 300dpi? Using 3-view-drawings sounds very good. It's a bit of a challenge to find the right ones and to be sure they have the correct size and haven't been resized. Fortunately, it's not a mission impossible. Ramon
  5. Serkan, here I have to ask you for more details. You manage to create custom decals that look like professional ones which is amazing. As we know, sometimes we want to build a unit for which no decal exists, so we have to learn doing our own decals. My questions to you are: First thing is to get the appropriate font and the stencils. So far so good. But then... - 1/72 decals have to be very very tiny and clear. How you get that absolute tiny and clear result? Is it the right choice of program (Photoshop, Illustrator, Gimp, Inkscape)? (Som
  6. Unfortunately, I don't know, but once a modeller told me that it turns yellowish with time. I think there are a lot of people here that used Future/Pledge in their projects so that they can tell more.
  7. Serkan, I still don't have many experiences with Alclad II, but I don't think it's a waste of money to have them. Once I copied some useful information on how to handle Alclad II paints best from a forum. I already posted this info here Maybe it comes a bit late as you already work with Tamiya paints, but maybe it will help you in the future. The key to avoid the loss of shine by masking tape use is to seal the metallic paint with a layer of Aqua Gloss. This is mandatory if you use high shine colors. It will also allow you to use decals with the decal setting solu
  8. Watching a few Youtube videos on the Anycubic Photon (for example) the print quality seems to be that good that you are able to print even tiny pieces in 1/72. The second half of the video shows examples that have very small details.
  9. You probably have these pics already but here's at least one sharp pic of the spike, plus an interesting video that shows the position of the spike.
  10. Maybe this: https://www.shapeways.com/product/JQLZJXHSV/sr-71-blackbird-engine-spike-1-72?optionId=60722282&li=marketplace and this: https://www.shapeways.com/product/GDH3ANEJN/sr-71-blackbird-engine-inlet-1-72-testors?optionId=60804741&li=marketplace will help you. Here are some more nice detail pics. They show an YF-12A, but many sections like air intakes, exhaust, gear bays are the same on most versions anyway. http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/howard_mason3/yf-12a/ Ramon
  11. Hi David, even if it's a bit late for the info below, as you are almost done with painting the Mirage, I found some interesting tips on how to handle the Alclad II colors. I still don't have any experience with Alclad II, so I can't say much about it. All I know is that the metalic shine is much better if the model is first primed with a high shiny gloss black. But here's what I got: ALCLAD Regular 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 116, 117, 120, 121, 123 and 125 need ALCLAD Primer 302, 306 or 309. ALCLAD High Shine 105, 107, 1
  12. Oops, I just read it. Also from me, belated Happy Birthday, Giorgio! Ramon
  13. Hello Giorgio, as always.... a beautiful job! Regarding the metal finish I remembered having watched a Youtube video of the same build but in 1/72. This modeller uses Alclad II Chrome which unfortunately costs a lot more but the effect is good. I don't have experiences with the extreme metal range of AK Interactive but the videos I have seen so far look good. What I don't understand is the long drying time. Shouldn't be. The must be some factor that delays or prevents the paint from drying properly. Maybe too much humidity in the air? But here the link: Ciao! Ramon
  14. Beautiful build, Giorgio and always amazing scratchbuilding approaches. And one thing I particularly like in your builds is that you finish them all fairly soon! Well done! Ramon
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