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About Sting67

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    Duesseldorf, Germany

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  1. Watching a few Youtube videos on the Anycubic Photon (for example) the print quality seems to be that good that you are able to print even tiny pieces in 1/72. The second half of the video shows examples that have very small details.
  2. You probably have these pics already but here's at least one sharp pic of the spike, plus an interesting video that shows the position of the spike.
  3. Maybe this: https://www.shapeways.com/product/JQLZJXHSV/sr-71-blackbird-engine-spike-1-72?optionId=60722282&li=marketplace and this: https://www.shapeways.com/product/GDH3ANEJN/sr-71-blackbird-engine-inlet-1-72-testors?optionId=60804741&li=marketplace will help you. Here are some more nice detail pics. They show an YF-12A, but many sections like air intakes, exhaust, gear bays are the same on most versions anyway. http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/howard_mason3/yf-12a/ Ramon
  4. Hi David, even if it's a bit late for the info below, as you are almost done with painting the Mirage, I found some interesting tips on how to handle the Alclad II colors. I still don't have any experience with Alclad II, so I can't say much about it. All I know is that the metalic shine is much better if the model is first primed with a high shiny gloss black. But here's what I got: ALCLAD Regular 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 108, 109, 110, 111, 112, 113, 116, 117, 120, 121, 123 and 125 need ALCLAD Primer 302, 306 or 309. ALCLAD High Shine 105, 107, 115, 118, 119 and 124 need ALCLAD Primer 303 or 305. ALCLAD Transparent Colors can directly be sprayed on ALCLAD Regular; ALCLAD High Shine must be sealed with ALCLAD Aqua Gloss 600. Recommended Polisher: Micromesh Polish-Set 301. Decal softener is not suitable for 105, 107, 115, 118 and 119! Ramon
  5. Oops, I just read it. Also from me, belated Happy Birthday, Giorgio! Ramon
  6. Hello Giorgio, as always.... a beautiful job! Regarding the metal finish I remembered having watched a Youtube video of the same build but in 1/72. This modeller uses Alclad II Chrome which unfortunately costs a lot more but the effect is good. I don't have experiences with the extreme metal range of AK Interactive but the videos I have seen so far look good. What I don't understand is the long drying time. Shouldn't be. The must be some factor that delays or prevents the paint from drying properly. Maybe too much humidity in the air? But here the link: Ciao! Ramon
  7. Beautiful build, Giorgio and always amazing scratchbuilding approaches. And one thing I particularly like in your builds is that you finish them all fairly soon! Well done! Ramon
  8. Also from me to you Giorgio a very Happy New Year! Ramon
  9. Interesting solution to replicate the intakes. I did something similar when I tried to build intakes for a Saab Gripen, but the material I used is very hard and it takes forever to sand it to shape. Your approach seems much easier using a much softer material. Well done! Ramon
  10. Good to see you on the next project, Giorgio. I don't know how accurate you want to be and if you prefer to scratchbuild the air intakes but there's an easy solution.... Here http://xmold-modeling.com/products-page/scale1-72/172-f4d-1-skyray-seamless-air-intakes-for-tamiya-kit/ Cheers Ramon
  11. Fantastic artwork, Giorgio! The final A-10 looks great and I can't wait to watch you building the Skyray. Ramon
  12. @ShalakoSorry, but I can't say much about the Hobby Boss kit. I have the Italeri AND Hasegawa kits and can compare both of them. So far my favourite is also the Italeri kit.
  13. Hi Giorgio, first of all, welcome back and good to read that you had a fantastic time in California. I was in the northern part of California in 1999, also in San Francisco. I could also visit an old aircraft carrier there in Alameda (next to Oakland). It was the USS Hornet. So I know about all these impressions. Also, as always, very cool progress pics! The A-10 looks nicer every time. I see, you managed to assemble the fiddly Gatling Gun Well done! Best Regards, Ramon
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