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bmwh548

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Everything posted by bmwh548

  1. T-101 and T-104 are the same stuff, just different size bottle. T-106 and T-108 are the same stuff, just different size bottle. The dark blue label one is the standard stuff, I use to use it years ago, nothing wrong with it. The yellow label one is the one with retarder in it, it's my go to thinner for all lacquers, solvent based acrylics (like Tamiya) and some enamels. It allows for the paint to settle better (useful particularly with gloss finishes). They also make Rapid thinner (red-ish label) which is supposed to be excellent for flat finishes and metallics, I keep forgetting to add one to my shopping list to try it out.
  2. It really depends on the enamels. The old school ones like Revell and Humbrol stink up the place. I can still smell Revell residue on my booth's fan days after spraying them, which is why I tend to avoid them. AK's metallics on the other hand are also enamels, but they're alcohol based, the smell is much more tolerable for my nose (and this is a nose that is used to automotive paint). I strongly suggest buying or making a spray booth, it will allow you to use whatever paints you want without intoxicating yourself or the household members.
  3. Enamels and lacquers stink to high heaven, so I guess they're a big no-no for you. Try the specialized metallic range from Vallejo, haven't used them myself, but I've heard good things about them. You could give Tamiya's acrylics a go (with retarder), but their metallics are a bit flakey.
  4. I use the 0.4 in my Ultra and that's about as big as you need to go. Try some good quality metallic paints (AK, Gunze's Super Metallics, MRP - careful with this one as it's very strong). My air pressure is 10-15psi. Water based paints are hard to airbrush and metallics are even worse. If you have no choice and need to stick to these for health reasons try adding a drop of retarder to the mix and remember to move fast, the flake settles on the bottom if the mix stays in the cup for too long.
  5. - nozzle full of dried paint - contaminated paint (sludge/grit) - incorrect thinner being used - the dropper style bottles are very handy but paint dries up around the dropper and bits can fall into the paint cup when you squeeze the bottle, give it a wipe with a clean tissue before that Give the airbrush a really good clean (you might have to take the nozzle off to make sure it's properly clean) and before putting paint in the airbrush cup do two things: 1 - make the paint-thinner mix in a clear cup and check the mix for sludge and/or gritty-ness; 2 - run a few drops of the correct thinner through the airbrush before putting the mix in the paint cup (and that, obviously only if the mix looks good in the clear cup). Edit: if you do take the nozzle off be very careful when you put it back on. They're fairly easy to break if you overtighten.
  6. Did you try the 0.4 needle-nozzle? Are those working correctly? Also: why are you thinning MRP? Their lacquer paint is almost like water straight from the bottle.
  7. How tight is the needle seal? Maybe it's too tight and the needle can't move freely causing the unpredictable behaviour. It's also possible that the mix is just a bit too thick for the air pressure. Try it with the 0.4 needle-nozzle.
  8. Yes. The nozzles and needle are interchangeable between Ultra, Evolution and Infinity. Just make sure you use the correct nozzle cap as well.
  9. I see. I would do a test mule using the paint thinned to my liking (disregarding his advice) and a pressure that's suitable for airbrushing. Worst case scenario you end up wasting a few paint drops.
  10. bmwh548

    Messed up

    You can remove Tamiya with IPA and it won't damage joints that have been glued using weld action cement.
  11. Isn't Createx designed mostly for car painters? If so, just add thinner to your liking. I had a conversation with my automotive paint supplier years ago when I tried switching to 2K clear, he told me not to add more than 10% thinner to the mix (which was nearly impossible to spray through my airbrush). Talking to him he said he was under the impression I was using a normal car painter's pistol (which has a 1.3 or similar nozzle). When I explained the airbrush nozzle is in the 0.4 range he told me I can add thinner to my liking and just keep an eye out for buildup so the clear wouldn't "run" on the vertical surfaces.
  12. Actually they're referring to the labeling I think. It became a big deal in 2019 (not totally sure) when Tamiya (and I think Gunze) were forced to relabel the bottles. Also I think it was a UK only issue, not the entire EU. If that's the case it might explain why Tamiya is sending over the 10ml bottles, but not both. I did notice extra labeling on the 10ml bottles for both Tamiya and Gunze this year in Romania too. A whole bunch of extra warnings, especially on the Gunze bottles. If any of the UK resellers are around they might shed some light. I remember Phil Flory talking about it in some older shows as his shop is a reseller for Tamiya and Gunze.
  13. To me it looks more towards paint lifting. When I get a grease spot and paint doesn't stick the edges are kinda round, these ones look jaggedy, like the paint coat is being torn by the brush.
  14. Any chance you could use plastic foil to cover it? The one used for food? I've done that in the past when I didn't want to risk paint lifting.
  15. Sol R is supposedly cut-able. In theory (never did it myself) you can use a scalpel (after it's bone dry) to make straight edges.
  16. The Germany official reseller lists both sizes on the site and apparently both are available for purchase. I purchased some 23ml bottles about a week ago from a Romanian reseller and the label seems to be rather new, not the older one (I still have some 10ml old bottles).
  17. I genuinely can't be bothered with brand Super Glue. I just get blisters (3x1g) from Lidl when they pop up every now and then. The Pattex black cap ones are really liquid-y and they have a very small whitening effect. When they dry up I just toss it in the bin.
  18. Depends on the severity. If it's a slight orange peel you might be able to remove it by using an aggressive polishing compound. Personally I use Tamiya's Coarse for that and finish it off with their Fine compound. If it's metallic paint you will need to give it another coat after you're done polishing or you'll end up with different shades in the color, but I don't think this applies here.
  19. Ammo's shaders work like that and you can wipe the excess. Presumably you can wash it away completely in the first 24 hours if you're not happy with it. After a few hours (got distracted) it was really hard to remove the excess, but if you work fast (10-20 minutes) it's very user friendly.
  20. I haven't used the normal one, but the R version I have grips like crazy so be careful you don't pull the paint off trying to peel it. Also: the longer it stays on the better it grips.
  21. If you buy some good quality ones there shouldn't be an issue (air leaks). I would consider a moisture trap in the second room. I actually have something sort of similar on my compressor. I have a hose that leaves from the compressor's regulator towards my spray booth. On the side of the spray booth I have a second regulator with a moisture trap attached and a particle filter as well (overkill, I know). The first regulator is set around 30PSI and the second one is usually around 15PSI. I use the airbrush's "mac valve" for the fine adjustment,
  22. I don't think Mig works with Tamiya thinner (because Tamiya's stuff is alcohol). Get the Mig thinner if you really need it. I sprayed Mig through my 0.4 nozzle with no real issues, but I can't remember what pressure I was using, but definitely more than what I normally use. To me that looks like the surface might be contaminated with skin grease, Tamiya wouldn't be as prone to issues because the thinner has alcohol in it. My advice: give the model a good wipe with IPA or some similar stuff, up your air pressure to about 20PSI and do some tests. You can drop the pressure as much as the airbrush will allow you, but first get it working. Make sure there's nothing that could contaminate the Mig paint in your airbrush.
  23. There's only one "rubber" seal on the H&S (from the trigger forward) and it almost never comes into contact with thinner when you clean it. And it goes back to the original size and "elasticity" pretty fast. All the other seals are PTFE. The nozzle seal, paint cup seal, needle seal and trigger seal are all PTFE. I've been cleaning mine with cheap lacquer thinner for years now and I have yet to replace rubber seals on it.
  24. Revell Aqua can be sprayed, though it's not exactly the best experience. I have zero experience with Humbrol's acrylics so I'll just leave them out of the conversation. If you do want to spray Aqua you'll need the appropriate thinner (I would recommend against using water as airbrush thinner) and if Revell makes one: retarder. If Revell doesn't make retarders try one from a manufacturer that specializes in true water based paints (like Vallejo, Ammo...). Stick to the manufacturer recommended cleaner, otherwise you might make a big mess of the airbrush (water based paint turns to goo when it comes in contact with strong thinners). In 100% honesty I would strongly recommend switching to some "stronger" acrylics: Tamiya and Mr. Hobby. They're not true water based, they use alcohol I believe and they spray beautifully, they grip and they're compatible with each other. Leveling thinner and Rapid thinner are ideal for them, but I suspect you want to stay away from the really harmful stuff (they're both lacquer thinners). You can just use the appropriate acrylic thinner and maybe grab a bottle of retarder for the longer spraying sessions. Don't rush and buy an enormous amount of paints, just grab a few bottles from each manufacturer and see which one of them works best for you. Cleaning can be done with IPA (I use bog standard lacquer thinner, but again, that's smelly and harmful). As future purchases go you should consider a paint booth (preferably with the exhaust pointed outside, not just recirculating the air inside the room), as a beginner I have not so fond memories of gassing up the entire room with paint fumes when learning about air pressure and distances.
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