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bmwh548

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Everything posted by bmwh548

  1. I'm not a fan of their new pressure control valve. I find that the range is way too small for my liking. The old one was far better in that regard. I guess the new design has less things to go wrong on it, but I'll stick to the old one.
  2. One of the distinctive characteristics of the CR Plus is that it has triple chrome plating to make it less prone to "wear and tear". Like @nheather said the CR Plus valve is most likely extra plated so it matches the body of the airbrush.
  3. The CR Plus has the extra chrome on it.
  4. I've got some similar stuff from the cosmetic aisles, incredibly effective for very little money. Some of them work well with wet buffing too.
  5. I did a trial with my Ultra and an Infinity tail and it worked just fine. But given the price of an Infinity tail...maybe just save up and get the entire airbrush?
  6. I think it's just a part number, not the grit size. Even if it would be an imperial versus metric situation the numbers don't add up. Shoot the seller a message, maybe they can clear it up.
  7. Gunze bottles all their thinners (including what seems to be lacquer thinner) in plastic containers. However it's most likely plastic designed to handle that type of solvent. Vallejo's bottles are designed for water based paints. Not trying to start an argument or anything like that, just my two cents.
  8. I would imagine the solvent in Tamiya (alcohol based or something like that) is far more volatile and might escape through the plastic that makes up the dropper style bottle (and it's cap).
  9. PVA glue with the advice to apply a uniform layer of it. If it doesn't get complete "coverage" you'll see the edges when you look carefully.
  10. I'm going to go out on a limb and say you might have a problem with the main airbrush body. Maybe the front end got damaged and the nozzle isn't seating properly in there. There was a topic with another Iwata (I think it was actually an Eclipse) that eventually got sent out for servicing and they concluded that the body had an unrepairable fault.
  11. It may sound silly, but did you get the same size nozzle? If I remember correctly Iwata will equip the airbrush with a 0.3 (or 0.35), but they will sell you a 0.5 nozzle. If you put a 0.5 nozzle with the 0.35 cap you'll get some air coming out, but not enough to draw paint from the cup.
  12. Grab some scrap resin and see what the heat does to it. Maybe you can dip it in some room temperature water as soon as the soldering is done, but practice it first, it could warp from the jumps in temperature.
  13. There's three nuts on the back of the airbrush (for most models). There's the needle/trigger travel limiter nut (located on the very end of the tail of the airbrush). With that one fully tightened the needle can't go anywhere so no paint can come out. The needle chuck has two nuts. 1. On the very end of the needle chuck there is a nut that secures the needle inside the mechanism. That needs to be fully tightened (not with tools, your fingers should suffice). If that one is loose the trigger will move freely, but the needle will stay put inside the nozzle, sealing it, no paint comes out. 2. At the end of the airbrush's body there's a second nut securing the needle chuck to the aforementioned body. This one can be fully tightened and it will not affect the needle movement in any way. It (on a lot of airbrushes) also plays the role of an adjustment to the spring inside the mechanism. If it's fully tightened the spring is more compressed and there's more resistance on the trigger's movement towards the rear but the trigger becomes snappier (which is more to my liking). If it's loose the trigger movement is much more "fluid", but I personally don't enjoy it, it feels like there's less feedback to my finger. If you are tightening the correct nut (the one I numbered 1) and the trigger isn't moving it could be that the needle is "cemented" on the inner PTFE seal (due to dried up paint). Depending on the airbrush you could remove the needle chuck entirely and twist and pull the needle (towards the back) with some pliers or you could remove (and this is normally better) the front end of the airbrush and tap the needle tail until it starts to come out through the front. A few drops of the appropriate thinner in the seal area should help free up the needle.
  14. bmwh548

    Debonder

    I've had that happen to me, yes.
  15. I love the Mr. Color Clearcoats for airbrushing. The GX range for flat and gloss, the C one for semi gloss because they don't make one in the GX range.
  16. Don't take this the wrong way, but I hate you! I can't brush an area larger than 2/2cm without getting brush marks and you do that like it's child's play. Chapeau bas!
  17. Nice idea with the tire "dust"! Thank you!
  18. Not to make you feel bad, but I've never cracked a nozzle. It flares up in time, but that's normal wear. How are you doing the needle insertion?
  19. Just grab an ordinary one from a hardware store. They state some basic thresholds (like 3 and 6 maybe), but you can play with the internals (there's 2 or 3 adjustment screws in there) to get the start/stop you want. I had to do that for a friend recently, it takes about a half hour of twisting and turning, but it works.
  20. I would try dipping them in some lacquer thinner and maybe using a brush to scrape the putty. Careful not to melt the handles.
  21. I think you might have overtightened the screw that holds the PTFE seal. It's supposed to be tightened so that you feel a slight drag on the needle (without the trigger or the needle chuck installed), but not so much that there's significant resistance. You should also check the needle to make sure it's clean in the area where it "sits" in the seal (sometimes paint dries up on it and creates a small ring that rubs against the seal) and check the trigger and needle chuck for dried paint or excessive wear. Not so funny story: my trigger has excessive wear on the axle and at one point it became unpredictable. I took it apart and polished the axle/rod and it went back to normal. Almost two years later it's doing it again so I'll have to repeat the process (or buy a new trigger).
  22. Stay away from second hand airbrushes. You don't know how the previous owner treated them. If you need a new needle-nozzle combo you'll probably reach the price of a brand new one.
  23. They're not, they turn to snot. In theory if you keep adding thinner, at some point you'll get something that is usable, but at that point why bother? If you're using a lacquer thinner, why not just switch to lacquer paints?
  24. You can thin some of them with water, not sure about the Ammo product though. Try it in a cup and see if it works.
  25. bmwh548

    AK Real Colours

    I have a few of them, nice paints. However, are you sure you mean the RC range? Because that's lacquer, not "acrylic" in the way Tamiya and Mr. Hobby are. They're closer to Tamiya LP and Mr. Color. I would rank them just under Mr. Color for pigment strength and usability, they're really thick so a bottle will last you ages (I use Leveling thinner for them).
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