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Jim Kiker

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Everything posted by Jim Kiker

  1. Hi Floyd, My own effort for a PR XI was to use the Airfix PR XIX kit for the basis of a conversion. This gives you all the needed PR stuff right off. I cut the nose off the Airfix kit and added a Merlin nose from an Aeroclub Mk XVI. The deep Mk XIX radiators were replaced with more shallow units. Take note that the Airfix clear parts and indeed, vacform replacements, are a tad off being correct, let alone measuring the same. It's now some of my best work. Need more? Shoot me a note at jckikerATcarolinDOTrrDOT com for more intel. Cheers, Jim
  2. Hi 112Sqn, Thanks for the input, I appreciate that. The fundekals guys are friends. I have their stuff on these Corsairs, but there is nothing in their photos regarding the PR modifications. "Eyes of the Phoenix" if a fine book, but again, no direct photo evidence to be had. Thanks for the response, Jim
  3. Hi all, I am looking for more information on the FAA/BPF photo recon Corsairs, especially Major Ronnie Hay's modified F4u-1A. A few of these conversions were delivered in both 1944 and 1945, going from F4u-1A's to F4u-1'D's and there seems to be as few pictures as there were these PR's. There is a description and drawings from an old Quarter Scale Modeller but I'd really like to find files showing Major Hay's machine from the left side. So; if I am wrong about the last known information that has been found, great; if not, does anyone have pics of the F4u-1A JT427 or other British Corsair PR's from the latter part of 1944 I would love to put them to work on my Tamiya 1/48 scale F4u-1A kit! Thanks in advance, Jim
  4. Hi all, I am almost ready to use the yellow tape Eduard masks for the canopy of my Tamiya 1/48 FB Mk VI Mosquito kit. The thing is, I am finding it difficult to find the edges of the individual masks even with magnification. I'm thinking I might need go for another brand. What is the secret to finding the right spot to see the pieces/edges? TIA, Jim
  5. Hi Graham, Thanks for the input; I thought it was a common, if not mandatory, practice as well. On the other hand, finding any indications of it has been difficult at best! Regards, Jim
  6. Hi all, I am working away on my Tamiya NF XII and have another unanswered question. Were the ends of the cannon barrels in the belly protected from the elements outside? I am talking about the exposed openings for these guns such as painted patches, tape on the ends of the barrels, corks, etc. I have come up with "zip" so far for the NF Mk XII from 85 Sqn only. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed. Cheers, Jim
  7. Thank you all for the input, it is much appreciated. I do think the truth is out there somewhere. The game is still afoot! Regards, Jim
  8. Hi all, I am working on a Mosquito NF XII conversion from the Tamiya Mk VI kit in 1/48 scale. This is one of the first batch of NF XII's delivered. The thimble nose has a small round artifact in the middle of the nose, but what is it? A painted disk, a metal plate, a clear Perspex port? See the image below. Thanks, Jim
  9. Doh! Of all the things to mistake, this takes the cake! Thanks for getting me on the right track. So, same thoughts about build-ability, etc. TIA, Jim
  10. Thanks for replying, Zac; until that time... Cheers, Jim
  11. Hi all, With the upcoming release of the Percival Mew Gull racer by Dora Wings, I have a couple of questions. First, bearing in mind that this kit is being 3d printed, how do Dora's plastic kits stack up in terms of building? And second, what would one need to glue together a 3d kit? Surely not styrene liquid glue? Maybe CA or epoxy? Thanks, Jim
  12. Hi all, I am looking for a set of 1/48 scale RAF WW2 dull red code letters, 36" tall, for one of my projects but I am having a hard time finding them as they seem very uncommon. I have exhausted myself on the 'net for commercially made sheets, and spoken to the Fantasy Printshop folks but they are not accepting custom work at this time. I have even checked into using different scale letters. 1/32 scale 24" letters have the same height as 1/48 scale 36" letters (19mm), but I did not find any dull red lettering sheets there. Am I beating a dead horse? Let me know if there is a sheet of decals out there that I have missed. Or, any other ideas? Masks, perhaps? If so, I would need help because I do not have the expertise. And since I mentioned it, if it's possible to scale up some letters could they be made with a height of 39" ? The photos of my project do show these letters to be slightly larger than the standard 36" roundels. Any light you can shed on this would be very helpful. Thanks and cheers, Jim
  13. Hi all, This was just what I was looking/hoping for; many thanks for sharing! Cheers, Jim
  14. Hi all, Thanks for the variety of approaches! Here is an extra issue in my mind. Looking at wing tip lights on most airplanes of the period, there is a clear cover over the light and only the bulb is colored. By extension, I would think the same would apply to the id lights; however, thinking often gets me into trouble. So, does someone at on the net have pictures of the Mosquito's belly lights? Much obliged, Jim
  15. Hi all, I'm working on a NFXII conversion using the Tamiya Mk VI kit in 1/48th scale. In the Tamiya kits the belly lights (bottom of the fuselage) are simple engraved circles. What can be done to these circles to make them look more like unlit lights? There must be something better than just painting them. Thanks in advance, Jim
  16. Hi all, Mainly I want to give you all belated thanks for all the information you have provided- thanks! I also have yet another question; namely, when the Coastal Command a/c received those new wing tanks and lost the .303" wing guns, where were the refueling points? Top of the wing over the outward tank? Connected somewhere else to the main fuel system? Anyone have a clue, much less a picture? Thanks in advance, Jim
  17. Hi all, I had another question which came to light as I move along with the build. Many pictures of that early batch of NF XII's feature the thimble nose cap painted in a dark, likely black, color and with a light disk on the tip of the nose. Does anyone know what that disk is? Metal plate (unlikely, it would interfere with the radar signal), painted disk, clear inspection panel, or something else? Inquiring minds want to know! Thanks in advance, Jim
  18. Thanks to all of you for your responses. I've been unable to reply further since last week. We have talked about items 1 and 4 on my list, but we have not gotten around to the second and third items. Here they are: 2) Should the belly ID lights on the kit pieces be kept, or should they be removed? 3) Wheels/tires- are the spoked wheels in the kit correct, or should it be solid hubs on both sides of the landing gear? I have the Ultracast block tread tires and I'd like to use them if the hub configuration is correct. And one additional question: did the AI MkVIII require the dipole antennas? I've seen several pictures now of Mk XII a/c with no dipoles. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed! Cheers, Jim
  19. Thanks Graham! Ross, her serial was DZ302/G. Thanks for the info on the codes! Regards, Jim
  20. Hi all, I am working on the Tamiya 1/48 scale Mosquito FB VI kit, converting it to the NF XII standard and a few details elude me. 1) There is a Bakelite base plate on top of the fuselage where the antenna mounts. The kit piece is slightly oval in shape, but my available references have drawn it as a circle. Is there evidence either way? 2) Next, the belly ID lights on the kit pieces are molded in place; were any of the three of them present on the NF XII, or should they be removed? 3) Wheels/tires- are the spoked wheels in the kit correct, or should it be solid hubs on both sides of the landing gear? I have the Ultracast block tread tires and I'd like to use them if the hub configuration is correct. 4) I'll end this with a markings question. The code letters for this a/c are for John Cunningham and Jimmy Rawnsleys' Mosquito are VY-R; I don't have a picture of their a/c where the codes can be seen. The question is, how tall were those letters? I THINK 30" would be correct but I'm not positive. Thank you for having a look here, and for any additional light you can shed! Cheers, Jim
  21. Gentlemen, Thanks for the images and information; you have been most helpful! A final question if you please. I am doing a Beaufighter from 236 Sqn, a Mk VIC, from early June 1943. What would be the correct combination of rails and rockets? Thanks again, Jim
  22. One of my long-term projects is a Tamiya 1/48 scale Beaufighter armed with 25 lb rockets. I've read somewhere that the kit rockets are not especially well done. I cannot find any direct observations on this, and I am also looking for the rocket colors beyond the rocket body being in Bronze Green. My Google-fu is weak tonight! If any one can spread some light here I would really appreciate the help! Cheers, Jim
  23. Hi all, After a long time has passed I am getting back to an old build, specifically the Tamiya 1/48 scale Mosquito as a NF XII, DZ302/G flown by John Cunningham with Jimmy Rawnsley. I am working on the kit again and have found unanswered questions that I had completely forgotten about. What I know- standard NF scheme of overall MSG with disruptive DG on the upper surfaces. Codes- VY-R. Thimble nose for the AI Mk VIII. Serial No. already mentioned and I have that in decals. What I don't know or I'm not sure of- I think the codes should be 30" high (in Dull Red), with the fuselage roundel about 36" in diameter. Standard for the Mosquito should be for the single individual code letter to be in front of the roundel and the squadron codes behind the roundel on both sides; correct? That said, there are plenty of different variations among different units. I cannot find a picture of either side of the fuselage but there are models of this aircraft showing the codes in different order; does any one have/know of pictures that actually show this plane from either/both sides? One left side profile I have in an old Aircam book also shows a little cut-out in the DG just in front of the horizontal fin, just long enough to show all of the serial number over the MSG paint. I hope it is correct... I think that exhausts my current state; I imagine there will be more questions to do with airframe details to come. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed! Cheers, Jim
  24. Hi all, I am working on the Eduard 1/48 scale Bf-109g-6/AS kit and I've broken the pitot tube. In the pictures I have found so far it seems to be two telescoping tubes, and they appear longer than the kit's piece. What I need to know is how far out the tube protrudes from the wing. Did different g-6 airframes have different lengths of pitot tube? Any light you can shed will be much appreciated. I realize that replacement units are available, but I would prefer to replace it myself if I can find the correct length. Thanks in advance, Jim
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