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Getunderit

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Everything posted by Getunderit

  1. Okay. Two plain oCUPus's coming up!
  2. An interesting way on how you created your landscape. The grass looks lush. My dog would love to roll in that! Like the little whispers of green on the barer areas 😉. Love this build, I never know what is going to unfold next.
  3. I have a cup of tea waiting for you all at the bottom of the rabbit hole.
  4. Another optical device found from junk bits is a door security peephole. This has a fish-eye lens. It can capture items at very close range. Will attach the peephole to the hull. What is behind the hull, to be seen, will be hidden in a box. Curiosity may invite the observer to have a look into the peephole. What is to be seen will be unexpected 😱 , and will dramatically shift their previous perception of the ADLIB-1. What will be seen? My lips are sealed 😶, until the model is finished 😀 .
  5. Playing around with the Propulsion Room (PR). The compartment's name gets changed all the time. Perhaps this means I don't have a clue what I am doing. Used yellow card folder for making stripes. Painted the circuit board side of the transformer. This will be part of the upper deck floor. Done something similar on the PR floor. Getting the console furniture, and personnel ready.
  6. Found some items at secondhand shop I know Gory (sic), I mean @Gorby, would like. Come on fellows, it's Schmacko time. Meanwhile on the other side of the bridge. . . _______________________________________ Will be returning to this model shortly.
  7. I know that whatever you do @rockpopandchips it will work out marvelously. I am just enjoying this build, and now and again my inner child wants to play along. I know what's it like with scratch building, ideas and things get changed along the way. Inspiration and creativity is a never-ending-story.
  8. Have a space guru meditating under the tree. Yeah, I better shut up too. @rockpopandchips, love the knolly tree. Much like a Bonsai.
  9. LOVE IT! That fin changed the character so much. Hope you keep it on there. Like the mountain top waypoint idea for a diorama. As a waypoint, are you going to have old fashion direction markers?
  10. It has come to my attention that I once seen a similar device used by entomologists for collecting small insects. They used them in the field. They sucked on the vacuum hose. This device is called an aspirator.
  11. Please note that my drawing leaves out a length of hose from under the trap lid to about an inch from the bottom. It can be seen in the photographs. The hose was placed in to ensure deposits would be left on the bottom. If you like, you could add a small fly-screen filter over the intake tube of trap (vacuum cleaner end).
  12. LEDs with their own resistor is meant to be connected in parallel. LEDs without a resistor can be connected in series with, or without, a single resistor. The thing is that if a LED uses 2 volts to operated optimally, then it requires 2 or less volts to operate. However, if you connect 5 LEDs in series, it can be hooked up to (5 x 2 volts = 10 volt) supply or less. If you added, lets say, 7 LEDs in series to a 9 volt battery, each LED will be running on about (9 / 7 = 1.3 volts), and would be dimmed down. However, running 2 LEDs, in series, on a 9 volt supply (9 volts / 2 LEDs = 4.5 volts per LED) will instantly blow the LEDs. (open circuit)
  13. I would use 500 ohm. Any bigger than 1,000 (1K) ohms and you lose range of dimming. LED resistance is calculated by the LED's operating voltage (average of 2 volts) and its current capacity (average 20 milliamps (mA)). The resistor is for any voltage over 2 volts. Okay, you are using 9 volts. You can dim the LED by also using a smaller voltage supply (perhaps 5 volts, which can easily be obtained from computer shops selling transformers with a 5 volt output. To calculate LED resister (R). R = (power source voltage minus 2 volts) x 1000. Then divide this by 20 (mA) Okay, for 9 volts R = [(9-2) x 1000] / 20 R= (7 x 1000) / 20 R=7,000 / 20 R= 350 0hms I suspect that the resistor with your LED has a 390 ohm value. An extra 100 - 500 ohms will dim the LED quite nicely. Or the added 0-500 ohm trimmer will make R = 390 - 890 ohms.
  14. Got sick and tired of removing all tools etc just to access the sawdust, shavings, etc for cleaning. When I was in the RAAF, we (Avionics Technicians) had a vacuum inlet on the workbench. A small diameter hose was attached for sucking up small foreign matter. We made our own traps at the inlet. These would stop anything we accidentally sucked up, like a small screw. Today, I made myself such a device. It attached to my vacuum cleaner. Tested it on kitchen breadboard. The bread crumbs are on the bottom of the jar.
  15. Try and dim it first. You may see the problem in a different light 😉.
  16. If possible, try and add material to block the light from entering unwanted areas. I had used a sheet of card, glued next to the LED, as a blind. Also have used aluminium foil (don't short the LED leads with this!), to block areas out. The trimpot has three connections. You only need two. One must be the centre connector, the other can be either one of the other two.
  17. Put a large claw on the end of your crane which resembles the beak of a flamingo.
  18. Yes you can add another resistor. I would add anything between 100-500 ohms. Or even add a 500 ohm trimpot, and vary the brightness to your desire. The build is looking great. The blue light in the front cockpit (mouth) is a fantastic idea.
  19. Thank you @Corsairfoxfouruncle, @oileanach, @The Chief Smeg, @Brundledonk, @harveyb258, @Gorby, @Jaktis, and @rockpopandchips for your 👍. _____________ Not much to report today. Have been busy cleaning the abode. Came across a pair of scratched polarized sunglasses (found on beach a few years ago). Decided to use them as a window for the ADLIB-1. Will attach one lens to an RC type servo for rotation purposes. Have the amount of polarization automatically change according to whatever sensor I use (light, Infrared, or ultrasonic). Both lenses will mostly be hidden within he vessel's shell. What will be shown is a portion of both lenses (the window). The rotating lens will be the bottom lens. In effect, it should not be noticeable that two lenses are used and one is rotating.
  20. Thanks Pete. I can relate. I wear glasses now to see things on my desk. Recently bought clip-on magnifiers at x 1.5 to see those small 1/144 and 1/150 figurines. There is not much more one can do about the visual. But there is another problem which can be overcome, and that is to have a steady hand. At first, fear got me to be tense with the fine paintbrush. No matter how hard I tried my lines were wriggly (and still is at times). It is trying that stuffs me up. Trying is like struggling with indecision/doubt, my hand does not know which way to go. Then I had to learn to relax. Accept stuff ups. I often say to myself "Oh well, if I stuff it up and can always paint over it." That often relaxes me, and then I can do a reasonable job of it.
  21. Thank you @Gorby, @Corsairfoxfouruncle, @rockpopandchips, and @Jaktis for your 👍 ____________ Played around with the console instrumentation. I have to admit, I had lots of fun. Tried to illustrate instruments on card and paper, but photographic paper worked best. Will try the gloss type later. The following photo should explain how I went about it. The original view point is not blown up like here. So at normal vision, it doesn't look so rough.
  22. I agree with Will Vale's comment. If I was building this model (as well as you have been Pete), I would have all its right side uncovered. But my reasons would be different to your own. Regardless, what you are doing with this creation is, and will continue to be, stunning.
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