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Everything posted by Getunderit

  1. Without going to far off the topic...
  2. Now that would be a challenge, Timmas. I can see that it would require two separate models, each obscure, yet can only be seen from one point in space, for the two to merge into one impossible perspective. Ideal for a peep show. Are you going to build this?
  3. HEADACHE DAY today. Came to a full stop with controlling the boat motor. Could not remember what my operating plans were for it. Discovered many unresolved issues with the design. Decided to start from scratch, in regards to operating the console. There are about 14 steps to complete. Got stuck in step 3 already. It turns out that there is a need for major re-design. Starting operations manual from scratch. As you can see, much of the original plan needs to be altered, and this is just for selecting up and downstream travel. Strange how one can become blind to things when focusing on it for too long.
  4. Yes and no. Yes, I have built such a circuit before. No, it is not because I built it before. But more importantly because it's knowing what/how the components operate/do. All components have a datasheet, with graphs showing their range of operating tolerances. Here, a photo-transistor, triggered by light intensity, is being used. It has a huge value variation from brightness to darkness in operation. So, it becomes prudent to have this circuit adjustable to suit its operating range and purpose.
  5. That is correct. It is going to be darker under the display table, where these circuits will be operating.
  6. Related true story movie: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/To_End_All_Wars
  7. Created a similar circuit for the optical switch which switches boat pulley motor OFF when it reaches end of travel. Top right image shows boat vane about to enter sensing gap of optical switch _ green LED indicates motor is ON. As soon as vane passes midway of optical switch, relay is tripped _ red LED indicates motor is OFF. Will create circuit board for two circuits, one for each end of transport track.
  8. Above post was the construction of the circuit shown in link below.
  9. Thanks fellows. You are all swell guys. ___________________________________
  10. I know it is not the same as seeing it for real, but I am sure the museum will make a video, for YouTube, when its all finished. If so, I'll post that here, on this thread. Most likely early next year.
  11. Had some head banging today. Had a boat vane problem. The battery holder got in the way of docking at the other side of the track. Had to relocate the battery holder, optical switch, and the limit microswitch, by a total of 11 mm. That is a lot!!! Had to move the battery holder 6 mm, and the optical switch 5 mm, to left. Designed the simple light detector circuit. The relay is dormant while light beam is OFF, allowing downstream nav lights to be ON, represented by the red LED. Once the light beam is ON, the relay becomes active, changing over nav lights for upstream, represented by the green LED.
  12. @Timmas, sorry that I may have confused you in these last posts. Believe me, it's confusing for me too. However, at one step at a time (post by post) I am starting to get a clearer view of what I have been trying to build. Aging has its downfalls. No longer able to hold too many ideas at once. This particular section of the build has many parts that must fit together without restricting any of the other parts. So. it's a bit of a visual nightmare to grasp. Fingers-crossed, I have come near its completion without foreseeable problems. Only have to design the electronic circuit, and circuit board, to fit (somewhere) on the boat vane. Oh, and design and build a 9V battery charger, which goes in a box under the display table.
  13. A favourite LED holder is a pen tube. However, this pen had a strange bore shape. Not only was it square, it was also way off centre. But I quickly put it to my advantage. Upon rotating the tube, one can shift both LED and LDR longitudinal axis to align better, to each other, over a long distance.
  14. BOAT NAV LIGHTS CHANGEOVER TRIGGER Had difficulty figuring how to switch the boats navigational lights from downstream to upstream travel. Mechanical switching proved troublesome to arranged when boat reverses direction. Decided to use an "old party trick" using a light beam to trigger a change in nav lights. The idea is that the LED light beam is ON whenever the pulley motor is in clockwise (CW) rotation (boat to travel upstream). This light is fixed at on one end of the tracks. On the boat vane is the light beam sensor, known as a Light Dependent Resistor (LDR). While the vane moves back and forth, the LDR is always facing the LED light source. When the light is OFF, the LDR resistance becomes high (135,000 ohms). This keeps a transistor in OFF mode. When the pulley motor is switched to CW operation, the LED light turns ON, and shines on the LDR. Its resistance instantly drops to 62,000 ohms. This low resistance allows a transistor to be in ON mode, tripping a relay. The relay switches the boats nav lights over from downstream to upstream configuration. Here, I am experimenting with the LDR.
  15. Thanks fellows for your 'likes' _________________
  16. AWESOME build, Steve. I was thinking about building the AE2 and found this build in my Internet search. What a wonderful build you have created. You surely made a tough benchmark to attain to. Thanks for sharing your build with us.
  17. The boat has its own power source, a 9V rechargeable battery. However, it needs to be recharged. A docking connector has been made. Upon assembly, I discovered that the connectors are misaligned. Will have to make a new wooden terminal block for the battery side of the connector. Will do this tomorrow.
  18. Nothing much to show. Today was mainly spending time on other volunteer work. However, was as able to figure out where and how to attach two microswitches to both ends of the transport frame. These are emergency limit switches, in case an optic switch fails. If this happens, the microswitch will switch motor power off, but the boat vane will hit the end of travel. The Perspex bracket will take up the brunt of the impact, and save the switch from being smashed. Besides, the springs will take up the 1/2 inch drift of the pulley cable.
  19. @Svedberg, all good questions which the answers have not been tested. There is a drift of motor axle after switch-off. The motor is attached to a 1:148 gearbox, which has a high torque, so it is unlikely to 'just stop' with an equally negative load of the pulley system. The tension on the springs is minimal. The spring resting tension is greater than the load. The boat, and vane on wheels, pose hardly any resistance. I do not foresee any spring isolation. The springs are mainly to keep a positive tension on the cable. Anyway, I will let you know what happens when I get to that point of construction. Thanks for asking. About boat travel, your assumption is correct. The boat will (I hope) dock (disabled) at one end. Then the bridge needs to be lowered and raised again before the boat once more becomes enabled. When it does, the nav lights need to change over and the boat motor polarity reversed.
  20. If you can rest your brain while walking your dog, then either the dog is so well trained or it is taking you for a walk. Gorby, this build has not yet been fully worked out. I am still facing hurdles as I proceed. At times I get the dreaded jitters thinking that I missed a key part, or concept, for it to work. If so, I fear having to go back, way way back, and start again. I like to keep things simple yet lasting. It's complicated due to two things, 1) the boat operates automatically, no-one operates it. 2) The nav lights need to exchange position on returned trip. If you returned from your walk and find yourself eating the dog biscuits, then the dog took you for a walk.
  21. @Mancunian airman, Ian, the boat operates automatically after the bridge span is raised to top of bridge. It's the automatic portion, plus switching over the navigation lights on return trip, which makes it a complex arrangement. Anyway, today I trimmed quite a few bolts to minimize future hassles of restricted space problems. Drilled two holes which used would have the bracket upside down. Added centre support bracket. After assembling brackets, it was time to test to see if the vane will align in between the optical switch. Though it looks all well and aligned, I may still incorporate a simple tin plate funnel, and file edges of vane to a bow point.
  22. To stop the boat at either end of traveled distance, an optical-switch is being incorporated. The switch is triggered when the boat vane cuts the light beam between its 'U' structure. Two sets of brackets are needed for both ends. The switch needs to be positional to compensate for any vane drift after switch-off. In other words, I can position it to have the vane stop before crash into end of travel (slot in display table). Changed design of track supports. It already is supported at both ends, so it does not need to be also screwed to slot braces (as in original drawings). Instead, another track support will be placed half way along the track. This will stiffen the track and eliminate any sagging. You will notice two slots per side bracket. Originally it was to be one long slot. I realized that the centre portion was not really required, so I left it in.
  23. The pulley cables to the boat vane are slightly under tension by the pull-springs. This is to keep positive attraction on the pulleys and motor shaft. I have not yet tested this, but it may also do as you suggested _ smooth out the initial start.
  24. Unpacked the rollers and found them well greased. However the viscosity was too high for free flow, so I added a drop of road bike chain lube to free it up. Note: Never use a degreaser, like WD40, on bearing surfaces such as chain links, etc. It washes the grease out and before you know it, the bearing has worn out. Bearings need grease/oil, not degreaser. This rolls down the track so easily.
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