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Mike Dean

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  1. Having looked at the pictures in more detail, there are too many unsanded mould lines showing, plus big gaps around the scoops, so it's going back under the knife for a bit more filling and sanding. Best to do it now before the top coat goes on. Updates possibly later in the weekend.
  2. All white now, baby itsa aaaaaaaalllll whiiiiiiiite now....................... One coat of grey and two coats of white primer with a light rub down in between, and then a light misting of gloss white over the hood and roof. I'm leaving that until the weekend to harden off before masking and the application of the gold. Engine and suspension next up tomorrow.
  3. I think this is going to be a kerbside. As you say, I'll concentrate on the paint job and the wheels, and forget any other fancy stuff. The interior is going to remain very basic. There is some wood trim and and dials to sort out, but I'm not knocking myself out in that department. Primer (grey and white) has gone on and is baking in the sun!
  4. I have to conceed that, yes, it is an old kit and the mould does look rather tired, so I'm prepared to forgive the old girl. Thanks for the instruction scans. They make an interesting comparison. Mike
  5. That bright yellow surface must really help when the piece you are cutting goes "ping" off the cutting mat, which previously would never have been found for at least a couple of months. It all looks jolly tidy. Why don't you throw everything in a heap now and get it over with? (I'm just jealous)
  6. Well, that didn't go well. When asked last night "What are you doing down there?", the answer "I'm fiddling with my Mustang" got me a night in the spare bedroom. Thanks for that. And for future information, no it doesn't piggin' well glow in the dark. I wasn't going to post pictures again until after the beast is primed, but I thought I'd show some essential pre-painting gluing. The front air-dam and rear lower valance need attaching prior to painting, and the only way to ensure they are in the right place (there are no locating holes) is to dry fit the front and rear chrome parts and then glue the lower bodywork in place around them. It seems to have worked well. I've also dry fitted most of the parts, and have headed off a lot of future potential problems by doing so now. I wanted to check the fit of the body to the chassis, as I don't want to keep handling the bodywork all the time, once it's had its lovely paint job. The give-away is immediately noticable out of the box, as the body shell, inner tub and chassis come dry fitted in a sealed bag (see post above). Immediately you can see that all three fit poorly together: it fits where it doesn't touch and doesn't fit where it does. Much filing and fettling got it into shape, and the body is now painted satin black inside and taped up ready for priming. BTW, the back seat (which can be fitted with the back raised or folded down) seems to fit so badly, it looks like it's from a different kit. I'm not really impressed with this kit. The beast has more scoops than an Italian Gelataria, and they have been added now so that hopefully the paint layers should blend them in nicely. If you're building this kit, the instructions are incorrect on the upper scoops: Part 22 goes on the passenger side, and part 23 on the drivers. Talking of instructions, they are pretty much useless. There are only 6 diagrams (and two of those are for the different engine options), and although the parts are numbered in the diagrams, some of the gluing location points are pretty vague to say the least. As for painting call-outs, forget it! There are 2 Cragar and 4 Goodyear decals (2 white, 2 blue) on the sheet, but there are no instructions as to where to stick them. I could make a few suggestions. Priming tomorrow. What could possibly go wrong? Stay tuned.
  7. Someone in the states called Whoppiekat decals used to do a set, but I can't seem to find their website (maybe out of business?). See March 2nd 2018 post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/17689-revells-68-mustang-gt-2n1-kit/page/3/ Maybe a set will come up on ebay one day.
  8. I hadn't thought of that. I'm taking it under the duvet tonight to check that out, and I'll get back to you tomorrow. That's assuming I'm still alive in the morning
  9. Here we go then with the box contents. All separate runners are in individual bags. All out of the bags. Examples of flash all over the place. It needs a good clean up. Close up of the body in Lime Gold. Finally the chromey and rubbery bits. It looks like there are a lot of chrome parts missing, but all the parts to complete the kit have been checked as present. The kit must have been loaded with extras in earlier releases. I dispensed with the clear part picture, (there's only one part, the all-encompassing single section front and rear screen) as I'm ditching it for thinner clear acetate. The next time you see the body in will be in either grey or white primer. As Tony says, now is the best time to get paint to dry quickly.
  10. Now I love a restoration, and actively seek out glue bombs and badly part started kits, just to give them a new lease of life, but the restoration of this '68 Shelby is going to be a real test! Anything stashed away for 30 years deserves another chance. This one has defintely got my attention. If you want the red cill stripes from my kit, you can have them.
  11. Popped into Halfords to check out the spray cans, and ended up with Ford Solar Gold (Solar/Sunlit. Close enough!). It was on the shelf next to the Arizona Gold so it was easy to do a comparison, but the Solar Gold looked better to me and the purchase was made.
  12. Just catchin' the mellow vibe, and goin' with the flow, dude. Love and peace Are you seeing a dancing pink elephant? Good, it's not just me then.
  13. That's one cool cat, looking for a kitty..........
  14. I've opened the box! Obligatory sprue shots later. What is a dirty rotten swizz, is that there are no imprints on the Goodyear Polyglas tires, and no decals in the box for them either. The box top clearly shows writing on the tires. Not impressed with that. At all.
  15. Thanks for tip, I'll check that out. At least an automotive paint will take a gloss varnish! I have to agree that's a great colour too, as is Seafoam Green (half-way down page 1 of the 1968 color charts on the www.mustangspecs.com link you provided in the reference section). There's also a "Moss Green" (4th down on page 2) which is catching my attention. Funny, I thought I'd already decided on the colour?! The kits provides cill stripes in white and red, but I can only really see the red ones going on white bodywork, and that's not happening here anytime soon. Mike
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