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Space Ranger

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Everything posted by Space Ranger

  1. Same here. Just use it in a well-ventilated room. I generally pour some into a small bottle, such as an empty but clean paint jar, with a lid with a good seal. Keep it sealed when not in use. Apply with a good quality, small paint brush to seams and let capillary action do the rest.
  2. I don't understand why you can't get it through ebay; that's how I got mine. I wasn't aware ebay discriminated against Aussies.
  3. There's a mad rush of Vulcan kits on ebay?? I didn't get that memo.
  4. Pre-order inquiry sent. But my email (to panbu [at] otenet [dot] gr) bounced back. "Quota for this mail account has been exceeded" was the message I received. That's the email address posted for contact re: this kit. Somebody needs to tell Christos Koutalianos he has a problem.
  5. At a TRAIN SHOW???? The horror, the horror! He's gone over to the dark side!!!!
  6. That "big black ball thing at the far end" is very likely a tank of some sort, but I have no idea what for. The first thing that came to mind was possibly pressurized nitrogen for emergency landing gear extension, but that's just a guess.
  7. There's nothing inherently wrong with mixing paint in the airbrush cup; I know modelers who do it all the time. They add a tint of black or white or some other color to the basic color in order to create variations to simulate weathering. The only problem I see is in adding flow enhancer/retarder in the cup. I suppose it's possible to add too much of each if you have just a small amount of paint. Airbrushing is sometimes more of an art than a science. Be patient and keep experimenting with mixes and air pressures until you find the combination that works just right for you and your airbrush and compressor.
  8. If spraying acrylics, you might try adding some flow enhancer to help prevent the paint drying on the tip of the needle. Liquitex Flow Aid is a good one.
  9. Looking forward to this one. I was living in Enid, Oklahoma, when Vance Air Force Base got its first four T-6s, which were for the instructors writing the training curriculum. The house I lived in was directly under the approach to Vance's main runway, and I saw them every afternoon when they returned to base. And I see the T-6s of the USAF's 80th FTW and the Euro NATO training program at Sheppard AFB every time I visit my home town of Wichita Falls, TX.
  10. Any solvent cement should work: Tamiya Extra Thin, Testors liquid, EMA, MEK, etc.
  11. Good job on those wins. We're gonna have to roll out the red carpet on your next visit to Texas.
  12. They're sold here in the US by Micro-Mark: http://www.micromark.com/Quasar-Lighting-System-for-Optivisor,8608.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CjwKEAjwho2xBRD0mpzUvsya6SgSJAAkRepSKlJ6qfIPnMEabgfW5HWny724j1XG85cr5mArZtL_yhoCJYTw_wcB As well as other retailers; I think I got mine through Squadron There are other Optivisor lighting attachments available as well, and a Google search will turn them up. There are also neat little LED clip-on lights for eyeglasses and LED headband lights sold here at Lowe's and Home Depot and on-line.
  13. I use one of these: Just don't answer the door with it on. By the way, that's not me.
  14. What happened is that Aviation News (and Italeri) apparently took the official Convair-quoted overall length to be from the tip of the pitot boom to the tip of the tail when in reality that dimension is from the tip of the radome to the tip of the tail, a difference of 61.5 inches. (A late cousin of mine was a Convair aerospace engineer on the B-58.)
  15. I've been building plastic models for 60 years (yes, I am THAT old!). I have never used superglue to assemble them and don't understand why folks use it for that purpose, due to its poor shear strength. The best adhesive for plastic models is one that actually welds the plastic, such as EMA, Tamiya's Extra Thin or Regular, or Testors liquid, or even straight MEK. They never fail to work. Save your superglue for bonding resin or metal to plastic.
  16. That is a help, thanks. And I am aware that AW177 was an 'H' version. That's why I asked for "Any hints/suggestions for conversion"!
  17. That works well, too, Just be sure you pull it along the joint to be glued instead of pushing it. That works, but I find I have more control over liquid cements with a paint brush.
  18. Just clean it in the Plastic Weld. Earmark a brush for nothing but Plastic Weld. If you apply it sparingly and let capillary action do most of the work for you instead of painting the stuff on, you won't have to worry about cleaning it. It may get stiff, but the next time you use it, it'll be fine.
  19. Didn't someone just post a copy of a Modeldecal instruction sheet with the fuselage length anomaly noted? I thought I had saved it but now can't find it.
  20. Just got this kit, and it a real gem. However, as I do not build anything with a swastika on it, I would like to build it as He 111H-1 AW177 of the RAF's No. 1426 (Enemy Aircraft) Flight. Any hints/suggestions for conversion and color/marking details?
  21. Scalemates is in error. The Revell 1/72 Voodoo was newly released (in the US) as a Revell kit (no. 4456) in1992, but the Monogram "Mini Masterpieces" F-101 is a 1989 re-release of their earlier 1/109 scale kit. It was issued in a series with other Mini Masterpiece kits which were 1/72 (P-51B, F8F, and P-36), but is definitely NOT 1/72, in spite of what it says on the box.
  22. That was the first thing I thought when I saw the photos. The joints look very clean, not at all like they should look had they been "welded" with a solvent-type liquid cement. I have never used CA for assembling plastic model kits, having grown up in the era of Pactra and Revell Type "S" tube cements and switching to liquid plastic cements and/or MEK as soon as I discovered them. In fact, I fail to understand why so many use CA to assemble plastic models unless they're in a big hurry. As far as I am concerned, the only use CA has is to bond dissimilar materials or 100% resin kits, and even then, epoxy is many times a better choice for that.
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