Space Ranger

I don’t recall. I was working at Squadron when I bought it from them so got a substantial discount.

There are a number of WIPs on this forum which describe the pitfalls of building this kit. It can be turned into a very nice model, but the path to same is strewn with frustration.

I didn't know about that, but it will not run on my ancient but honorable steam-powered FrankenMac.

What kind of paint do you use for your base colors: lacquer, enamel, or water-based acrylic?

Marmalade is a beautiful feline and an obvious connoisseur of fine modeling!

Incredible! Nine-year-old me, who built a Revell H-19 out of the box in the space of about two hours in 1955, could never have conceived of it looking like this!

Where did you find the plans? Are they in the book?

A "rogue"???? The man is a convicted felon! He accepted bribes from defense contractors (at least US$2.4 million) while serving in the U.S. House of Representatives. That's not "political," that's a fact. His abuse of his office and violation of public trust more than negates anything he might have done as a fighter pilot. He disgraced his uniform. He deserves to be remembered in infamy if at all.

I did not personally know Chas the Codger, but I was an admirer of his work. Our modeling community is greatly diminished by his passing. My sincerest condolences to his family, friends and followers.

The Meyers 200 (U.S. civil aircraft) was of similar construction, with a steel tube central portion (cabin and inner wings) and monocoque outer wings, aft fuselage, and tail surfaces. They were essentially hand built, and after Aero Commander acquired the design, they concluded, after producing a few as the Aero Commander 200, they could not manufacture the airplane at a reasonable cost and make a profit.

I have those in PDF format. Send me your email address in a PM.

Years ago the folks at IPMS Dayton (Ohio) developed and sold a 1/72 conversion kit for the AFTI F-16. I had one, but it has long since disappeared in one of my many cross-country moves.

Latin’s a dead language. That’s plain enough to see. It killed off all the Romans, And now it’s killing me!

Good Lord those spar caps are HUGE!

Received my Electra yesterday after its 9-week journey from Japan via New York City (the long way around!).

I concur.

Check out Ron Downey's "Aviation Archives" blog (http://aviationarchives.blogspot.com/) . He has a couple of official McDonnell drawings that you can download.

Okra grows in Ireland??? I had no idea. It's a staple in many homes in the southern U.S., usually fried (of course!). I hate the stuff.

I have a McDonnell drawing that may help. Send me a pm.

I never meant to imply that ball-end sculpting tools are the ultimate solution to creating fillets. I use them on Milliput, Aves Apoxy, Evercoat, and similar fillers to create fillets and sculpt them into a good "first approximation," which then serves as a basis for further applications of surfacing putty such as Spies Hecker Permacron, 3m Acryl, or Bondo, followed by sanding as necessary, then priming. For large fillets I create masks from tape, using plans as a guide, which I apply to the area to outline the edges of the fillet. I then apply my filler into the corner and smooth it using assorted ball-end tools as necessary, working it up to the edges of my masks. Any excess filler gets deposited onto the masking tape and comes off when the tape is removed. For small fillets such as a typical wing-to-fuselage joint on a modern aircraft, I just lay down a strip of masking tape on either side of the joint a few millimeters from it, apply filler, and smooth it with a small-diameter ball-end tool of appropriate size such as a dress pin. The edges of the fillet made in such a way are usually pretty obvious, and any excess filler not on the tape can be removed before it has hardened. But even after taking care to get it as right as possible to begin with, some sanding with wet-and-dry paper is usually required. But wetting the sculpting tool with an appropriate plastic-safe lubricant helps get the fillet pretty close to begin with.

Excellent!

Wow! New Kit? Old kit? Re-released kit? I've never seen it before. I presume the currency is an indication of its cost as well as its size.

As a sub-teen modeler, I once got in trouble for trying this with some of my mother's scented (and very expensive) talcum powder. But shortly after this incident, my allowance was raised and I was able to afford flat paints from then on.

Definitely interested. Will either fit the older Airfix Vulcan kit as well?