Marco

I like using stretched sprue. Stick it over the gap with tamiya extra thin and gently press it in while it is still soft (not with your fingers). And sand it. You might need to repeat the proccess in some spots.

I finished all the sanding and primed the Hunter with Gunze Black Surfacer. Got the paints but, unfortunately, #331 was dry. I put some more thinner in the jar and managed to melt the dry pigments. The color looks good but there is still a rubbery goo in the pot. I´ll check it tonight to see if that has melted too. I hope so because I´m guessing this goo is what makes the paint stick to the model. Here is the Hunter with the others I primed.

Beautiful work, PanZair! What is the brown pen you used?

Another thing I do is to apply Tamiya Extra thin glue to scribed lines. Not too much. Just pass an almost dry brush. This smoothens the cut and makes it look much better. I like to practice on leftover/spare drop tanks.

I don´t like Dymo tapes very much. They don´t stick so well and don´t go around curves very well. I use floor marking tape. It´s a thick vinyl tape. I slice it on top of a glass surface.

Thanks again, Graham. I made the changes. Original: Cut: And filed: The stabilizers before: And after cutting the locating tab: I also rescribed all the lost panel lines. The red tape is floor marking tape. It´s thick and sticks well - an excellent ruler for guiding the scriber:

Beautiful.

Thank you very much, Graham! I hadn't noticed the difference. The bullet is awfully big compared to the real one. These are up next!

Nice kit! Be careful with the montex masks. Specially on the curved parts of the canopy because the edges always lift up. I stopped using vinyl masking tapes because of this problem.

Things are starting to look good. Here is the result after sanding: There are still a gap to be filled but now everything is aligned. Before and after: I used Infini sanding sponges to do this. Great tools. Also started on the big gaps on the intakes.

Thanks!

Thank you, Ian. The intakes are the next to be tackled. Wretched place to sand 😄. Thanks, John. I´m glad I was not the only one with nose problems 🙂

Sanding time: The result was quite good but I still had some micro seams. I used stretched sprue to cover these. I assembled the nose. And repeated the sprue process. Now I´ll have to let the glue dry before sanding the excess plastic.

Thank you.

Working on the nose. When I dry fitted the fuselage on the nose cone I saw that they had different profiles. The nose cone is round and the fuselage oval. So I had to ad some spacers so that the profiles could match. Here: The bottom part needed spacers too: Right there: I also opened up the holes for the cannons. And glued the lead weights. I used epoxi glue for this because I read somewhere that lead and CA glue don´t go together

That´s looking very nice.

Nice work Lord Riot. When you start your next instrument panel try using watercolour pencils. First paint the base colour (normal paint) and then pick out the details (buttons, frames etc) with a sharp pencil. I like using cheap Staedtler Noris Club student pencils. For this type of work they are better than the pro pencils.

Thank you for reminding me of the nose weight! Always forget that. For painting small details I use Vallejo paints and very thin brushes. But I always makes mistakes and have to repaint parts. After painting, I seal everything with a gloss coat and then cover it all with very thinned raw umber (oil). This sort of blends the colours.

I glued the wings before closing the halves. And had to thin down the resin cockpit outer walls so that the halves closed right. I now stand at this tricky part:

Built and painted the cockpit: Nice glass effect: The tub:

I started with the resin cockpit. I cut the back wall so that the new cockpit stayed flush. Had to cut this part too. Later on I had to cut an extra 2 mm.

Hi! This is my Hunter WIP. I´ll be using an Aires resin cockpit and a Xtradecal sheet. And I´m going to make it XK149:

Thanks! 👍

Thank you, Lawrence! All the modulations were made with thinned down oils (burnt sienna, burnt umber, payne´s grey and naples yellow).

This is my latest one. A very nice kit with excellent tracks. Painted with Gunze Mr. Color and weathered with oils, watercolour pencils and dust pigments. Small details were painted with Vallejo acrylics. Thanks for looking!