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Everything posted by Marco

  1. Just remember this stuff is good because it is almost automotive paint. Not acrylics. http://www.my-sds.co.uk/auto.aspx?accountid=guest&languagecode=44&companyid=halfords&partcode=5015025708782 Use it in ventilated spaces and wear a mask.
  2. Acrylic paint usually comes off by leaving the kit overnight in water with laundry soap (the powder type).
  3. Get an H&S Infinity with a 0.15 needle. I also recommend using a compressor with an air tank.
  4. More work done: Wings attached: looks OK: Nose finished: Stabilizers and flaps: The rudder after putty and sanding: And the fuel tank:
  5. If you want a very resistant and very glossy coat, you can go with 1-component Clear Lacquers. They are car varnishes and there is no need for hardeners. They are easy to use and dry quickly. You can find these in car paint stores. Use a mask and get thinner for it. Some say it is ready to use but you will need the thinner to clean your airbrush. Nice and glossy: If you go for the two-component varnishes you will get an even better result. I would use this all the time if I built cars:
  6. I am not an airliner guy but I use PU car paint varnish. It´s beautiful, glossy and super resistant. Also it is very cheap and easy to apply Look for the one that isn´t two-component. Also buy the appropriate thinner and use a mask.
  7. This kit is famous for its undernourished tail. Here is how it compares to 1/32 plans: So some plastic surgery is required. I cut plastic card more or less to the size and stuck it on. Later on I´ll cover it with putty and sand it to shape. Going to get rid of the silly engraved lines and work on the big ribs. Thanks for passing by!
  8. Then I closed the sides and the engine covers. The sides fit very well. The engine covers are OK except for a little gap at the front.
  9. I build all the interior components and primed them with black primer. I left the engine unpainted (it´s going to be covered) and painted all the rest with Gunze and soem details with Vallejo. The PE parts are excelent. The kit has imperfections, but it is loaded with nice things. Everything here comes in the box.
  10. Hi! I started building this 1/32 109 G-2. I won´t use the kit decals. Instead, I got hold of a beautiful sheet from FCM Decals for Trautloft´s aircraft.
  11. Valeu, Luiz!! Um abraço de São José dos Campos! Thank you, guys!
  12. Hi! This is my latest 109. I tried to make the paint work look like this picture that comes with the EagleCals decals for Fritz Ungar´s ride. I lightly riveted the surfaces. The paints were mixed using acrylics (a local art&crafts brand). The gloss varnish is PU car paint varnish (great stuff). And the final semi-gloss is Gunze Acrylics. Small scratches were made with Noris Club watercolour pencils. The aerial is 0,10mm fishing line passed through 0,5mm brass tubing Hope you like it! Marco
  13. I put on matt/satin varnish because my acrylics lay down with a rather shiny finish.
  14. MIG filters are enamels. To avoid messing up your paintwork, lay down a coat of satin or matt varnish. Gloss varnish won´t be so good; you need some surface texture on to where the filter can stick.
  15. It looks like a WNF ... thanks for the link!
  16. Thank you! I saw that crashed 109 picture but the Yellow Six is much lower than the photo with the pilot sitting in the cockpit. The mottling looks very different too. The profile really isn´t that bad but I like using pictures specially when I get to see the other side of the plane.
  17. Hi! I´m looking for references for a G-6 flown by Fritz Ungar. I´ve looked through my books and got nothing. It´s Yellow 6 from JG54. The only picture I have is in the EagleCals instructions: EagleCals make excellent decals but their profiles are no good: Thank you!!
  18. I just go down to the paint store and buy a tin of car gloss varnish. It dries rock hard and nothing attacks it. You can get as a two-part PU varnish or one-part poliester. Also get the thinner (dilute it 1:3). One-part Poliester And a two-part PU varnish
  19. Waldron punches are expensive. Here is a good technique for making circle templates using beer tins. It´s in portuguese but the pictures are self guiding. Circle templates Make the circle the size you want by going deeper with the rotary tool. Then use a sharp blade to cut out the circles on masking tape.
  20. Marco

    Mixing Paints

    I wouldn´t worry too much. Paint it black (whatever one) and then use a satin (semi-gloss) finish varnish coat.
  21. Thank you! That would be great. I´m looking for RLM CMYK values.
  22. Hi! I tried downloading the xls spreadsheet but it seems the server is down. Is there a new link? I would love to use those CMYK values! Thank you!
  23. Hi! The Nespresso capsules are made of thin aluminum. At first I thought about trying to make some seatbelts out of a capsule. Then I thought they would look nice on a pilot´s seat... and, in the end I managed to make a whole cockpit out of one capsule. I drew the seat with a ruler and pencil. Cut it out with scissors and marked the folding lines with an Olfa scriber. The material is really nice to work with. Marking the folding lines makes it very easy to bend straight edges. The belts are just thin slivers folded and the buckles are even thinner slivers. I guess I could have easily punched small holes to replicate smaller details. The belts fold very nicely. Much better than Eduard PE belts. Hope you like it!
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