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Marco

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Everything posted by Marco

  1. Marco

    Mixing Paints

    I wouldn´t worry too much. Paint it black (whatever one) and then use a satin (semi-gloss) finish varnish coat.
  2. Thank you! That would be great. I´m looking for RLM CMYK values.
  3. Hi! I tried downloading the xls spreadsheet but it seems the server is down. Is there a new link? I would love to use those CMYK values! Thank you!
  4. Hi! The Nespresso capsules are made of thin aluminum. At first I thought about trying to make some seatbelts out of a capsule. Then I thought they would look nice on a pilot´s seat... and, in the end I managed to make a whole cockpit out of one capsule. I drew the seat with a ruler and pencil. Cut it out with scissors and marked the folding lines with an Olfa scriber. The material is really nice to work with. Marking the folding lines makes it very easy to bend straight edges. The belts are just thin slivers folded and the buckles are even thinner slivers. I guess I could have easily punched small holes to replicate smaller details. The belts fold very nicely. Much better than Eduard PE belts. Hope you like it!
  5. I like using stretched sprue. Stick it over the gap with tamiya extra thin and gently press it in while it is still soft (not with your fingers). And sand it. You might need to repeat the proccess in some spots.
  6. I finished all the sanding and primed the Hunter with Gunze Black Surfacer. Got the paints but, unfortunately, #331 was dry. I put some more thinner in the jar and managed to melt the dry pigments. The color looks good but there is still a rubbery goo in the pot. I´ll check it tonight to see if that has melted too. I hope so because I´m guessing this goo is what makes the paint stick to the model. Here is the Hunter with the others I primed.
  7. Beautiful work, PanZair! What is the brown pen you used?
  8. Another thing I do is to apply Tamiya Extra thin glue to scribed lines. Not too much. Just pass an almost dry brush. This smoothens the cut and makes it look much better. I like to practice on leftover/spare drop tanks.
  9. I don´t like Dymo tapes very much. They don´t stick so well and don´t go around curves very well. I use floor marking tape. It´s a thick vinyl tape. I slice it on top of a glass surface.
  10. Thanks again, Graham. I made the changes. Original: Cut: And filed: The stabilizers before: And after cutting the locating tab: I also rescribed all the lost panel lines. The red tape is floor marking tape. It´s thick and sticks well - an excellent ruler for guiding the scriber:
  11. Thank you very much, Graham! I hadn't noticed the difference. The bullet is awfully big compared to the real one. These are up next!
  12. Nice kit! Be careful with the montex masks. Specially on the curved parts of the canopy because the edges always lift up. I stopped using vinyl masking tapes because of this problem.
  13. Things are starting to look good. Here is the result after sanding: There are still a gap to be filled but now everything is aligned. Before and after: I used Infini sanding sponges to do this. Great tools. Also started on the big gaps on the intakes.
  14. Thank you, Ian. The intakes are the next to be tackled. Wretched place to sand . Thanks, John. I´m glad I was not the only one with nose problems
  15. Sanding time: The result was quite good but I still had some micro seams. I used stretched sprue to cover these. I assembled the nose. And repeated the sprue process. Now I´ll have to let the glue dry before sanding the excess plastic.
  16. Working on the nose. When I dry fitted the fuselage on the nose cone I saw that they had different profiles. The nose cone is round and the fuselage oval. So I had to ad some spacers so that the profiles could match. Here: The bottom part needed spacers too: Right there: I also opened up the holes for the cannons. And glued the lead weights. I used epoxi glue for this because I read somewhere that lead and CA glue don´t go together
  17. Nice work Lord Riot. When you start your next instrument panel try using watercolour pencils. First paint the base colour (normal paint) and then pick out the details (buttons, frames etc) with a sharp pencil. I like using cheap Staedtler Noris Club student pencils. For this type of work they are better than the pro pencils.
  18. Thank you for reminding me of the nose weight! Always forget that. For painting small details I use Vallejo paints and very thin brushes. But I always makes mistakes and have to repaint parts. After painting, I seal everything with a gloss coat and then cover it all with very thinned raw umber (oil). This sort of blends the colours.
  19. I glued the wings before closing the halves. And had to thin down the resin cockpit outer walls so that the halves closed right. I now stand at this tricky part:
  20. Built and painted the cockpit: Nice glass effect: The tub:
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