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Marco

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About Marco

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  1. I put on matt/satin varnish because my acrylics lay down with a rather shiny finish.
  2. MIG filters are enamels. To avoid messing up your paintwork, lay down a coat of satin or matt varnish. Gloss varnish won´t be so good; you need some surface texture on to where the filter can stick.
  3. It looks like a WNF ... thanks for the link!
  4. Thank you! I saw that crashed 109 picture but the Yellow Six is much lower than the photo with the pilot sitting in the cockpit. The mottling looks very different too. The profile really isn´t that bad but I like using pictures specially when I get to see the other side of the plane.
  5. Hi! I´m looking for references for a G-6 flown by Fritz Ungar. I´ve looked through my books and got nothing. It´s Yellow 6 from JG54. The only picture I have is in the EagleCals instructions: EagleCals make excellent decals but their profiles are no good: Thank you!!
  6. I just go down to the paint store and buy a tin of car gloss varnish. It dries rock hard and nothing attacks it. You can get as a two-part PU varnish or one-part poliester. Also get the thinner (dilute it 1:3). One-part Poliester And a two-part PU varnish
  7. Waldron punches are expensive. Here is a good technique for making circle templates using beer tins. It´s in portuguese but the pictures are self guiding. Circle templates Make the circle the size you want by going deeper with the rotary tool. Then use a sharp blade to cut out the circles on masking tape.
  8. Marco

    Mixing Paints

    I wouldn´t worry too much. Paint it black (whatever one) and then use a satin (semi-gloss) finish varnish coat.
  9. Thank you! That would be great. I´m looking for RLM CMYK values.
  10. Hi! I tried downloading the xls spreadsheet but it seems the server is down. Is there a new link? I would love to use those CMYK values! Thank you!
  11. Hi! The Nespresso capsules are made of thin aluminum. At first I thought about trying to make some seatbelts out of a capsule. Then I thought they would look nice on a pilot´s seat... and, in the end I managed to make a whole cockpit out of one capsule. I drew the seat with a ruler and pencil. Cut it out with scissors and marked the folding lines with an Olfa scriber. The material is really nice to work with. Marking the folding lines makes it very easy to bend straight edges. The belts are just thin slivers folded and the buckles are even thinner slivers. I guess I could have easily punched small holes to replicate smaller details. The belts fold very nicely. Much better than Eduard PE belts. Hope you like it!
  12. I like using stretched sprue. Stick it over the gap with tamiya extra thin and gently press it in while it is still soft (not with your fingers). And sand it. You might need to repeat the proccess in some spots.
  13. I finished all the sanding and primed the Hunter with Gunze Black Surfacer. Got the paints but, unfortunately, #331 was dry. I put some more thinner in the jar and managed to melt the dry pigments. The color looks good but there is still a rubbery goo in the pot. I´ll check it tonight to see if that has melted too. I hope so because I´m guessing this goo is what makes the paint stick to the model. Here is the Hunter with the others I primed.
  14. Beautiful work, PanZair! What is the brown pen you used?
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