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Marco

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  1. Just remember this stuff is good because it is almost automotive paint. Not acrylics. http://www.my-sds.co.uk/auto.aspx?accountid=guest&languagecode=44&companyid=halfords&partcode=5015025708782 Use it in ventilated spaces and wear a mask.
  2. Acrylic paint usually comes off by leaving the kit overnight in water with laundry soap (the powder type).
  3. Get an H&S Infinity with a 0.15 needle. I also recommend using a compressor with an air tank.
  4. More work done: Wings attached: looks OK: Nose finished: Stabilizers and flaps: The rudder after putty and sanding: And the fuel tank:
  5. If you want a very resistant and very glossy coat, you can go with 1-component Clear Lacquers. They are car varnishes and there is no need for hardeners. They are easy to use and dry quickly. You can find these in car paint stores. Use a mask and get thinner for it. Some say it is ready to use but you will need the thinner to clean your airbrush. Nice and glossy: If you go for the two-component varnishes you will get an even better result. I would use this all the time if I built cars:
  6. I am not an airliner guy but I use PU car paint varnish. It´s beautiful, glossy and super resistant. Also it is very cheap and easy to apply Look for the one that isn´t two-component. Also buy the appropriate thinner and use a mask.
  7. This kit is famous for its undernourished tail. Here is how it compares to 1/32 plans: So some plastic surgery is required. I cut plastic card more or less to the size and stuck it on. Later on I´ll cover it with putty and sand it to shape. Going to get rid of the silly engraved lines and work on the big ribs. Thanks for passing by!
  8. Then I closed the sides and the engine covers. The sides fit very well. The engine covers are OK except for a little gap at the front.
  9. I build all the interior components and primed them with black primer. I left the engine unpainted (it´s going to be covered) and painted all the rest with Gunze and soem details with Vallejo. The PE parts are excelent. The kit has imperfections, but it is loaded with nice things. Everything here comes in the box.
  10. Hi! I started building this 1/32 109 G-2. I won´t use the kit decals. Instead, I got hold of a beautiful sheet from FCM Decals for Trautloft´s aircraft.
  11. Valeu, Luiz!! Um abraço de São José dos Campos! Thank you, guys!
  12. Hi! This is my latest 109. I tried to make the paint work look like this picture that comes with the EagleCals decals for Fritz Ungar´s ride. I lightly riveted the surfaces. The paints were mixed using acrylics (a local art&crafts brand). The gloss varnish is PU car paint varnish (great stuff). And the final semi-gloss is Gunze Acrylics. Small scratches were made with Noris Club watercolour pencils. The aerial is 0,10mm fishing line passed through 0,5mm brass tubing Hope you like it! Marco
  13. I put on matt/satin varnish because my acrylics lay down with a rather shiny finish.
  14. MIG filters are enamels. To avoid messing up your paintwork, lay down a coat of satin or matt varnish. Gloss varnish won´t be so good; you need some surface texture on to where the filter can stick.
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