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Jazzy Jase

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Posts posted by Jazzy Jase

  1. Other worthwhile points to note are the comparatively fresh overpainting of the Sky band, and the light appearance of the Ocean Grey on the wingtip and tailplane. This very light appearance is seen on a number of late-war aircraft - often at the wingtip. No known explanation.

    I hadn't noticed that the sky band had been overpainted, but it is quite clear in the colour photo now you mention it. Do you think they would have painted the squadron "D" code white at the same time as it looks white in the photo. (And gives me a problem as I can't find white decals for this!)

    Also, I think you can just about see the serial number under the tailplane, which looks white too.

    Again, I hadn't noticed the lightness of the grey on the wingtip or tailplane until you mentioned it. Could it just be the light fom the sun making it look lighter?

    The aircraft in the colour photo has a camera hole in the starboard side, but the other two photo's, showing the port side do not. Would the camera hole only be on one side? The instructions tell me to put glass on both sides?

    Is it also safe to assume that the squadron "D" code would be the aft of the roundel on the port side too?

    Thanks to everyone who has given me information so far. It is all much appreciated. :thumbsup2:

  2. Except ignore the suggested colour scheme for these aircraft - Paul Lucas suggested the Low Level Recce scheme as a possibility

    Please can you elaborate? Are you saying the aircraft won't be Dark Green, Ocean Grey and Medium Sea Grey? Or are you reffering to the roundels?

  3. Jason

    You might find this link which is from the original Air Ministry "rules" on markings of use.

    http://www.rafweb.org/sqn_codes3.htm Click on the arrow at the bottom for further info on colours and sizes

    If I have interpreted this right the Spitfire should have 8" high serial. By eye-balling the pics I would estimate the code letters to be 24". The codes are supposed to be Sky but it looks white to me in the colour photo. The fuselage roundel thus looks to be 36". I am sure others will be quick to intervene if I have got this wrong. Interestingly the upper wing roundels look to be the type III (red, white, blue and yellow) rather than type I (red and blue) which I would have expected.

    You can find decals for roundels and code letters in various colours and sizes - Xtradecal do both and I also like the Fantasy Printshop roundels. I find it a struggle to line up five tiny decals for the serial so I tend to print these myself on decal film - you would need to download an appropriate "RAF" style font to do this.

    Pat

    Thanks, that's a useful link Pat.

    I agree that the code letter is white as it is the same colour as the white in the roundel.

    I also agree that the roundels on the top of the wing are type III. The information on the website you've lnked to says the roundels on the bottom of the wing should be type II. You can't see any of these roundels in the pictures though, so I will just have to go with that and hope it's right.

  4. Could I ask what the part/serial no. on that kit is Jase? I'm trying to get hold of the low-backed version to convert to an FR18, and it would help to differentiate between this and other Fujimi Mk XIV releases which just have the high-back spine and canopy.

    Cheers

    Keith

    The number on the box says 74007. Hope that helps.

  5. Jase, I hope I'm not being too cheeky, but if you're not using the decals could I scrounge them? I raided the sheet in the one I had to do a speculative Spiteful FR14 and that's the one Fujimi spitfire that seems to be rather difficult to find!

    I may use the decal for the instrument panel, but I don't think I will use the others. They look a little yellow, but you are welcome to give them a go. PM me your address and I will send them once I've measured them (and cut out the instument panel). Did you want the decals for the camouflage too?

  6. I've never used resin before, and I don't really want to start, so I was just really wondering if the resin had been produced to correct some obvious flaw with the kit.

    Good thinking about measuring the kit decals for size. The roundels on top of the wings are a different style between the photo's and the kit but they look about the same size.

    I will try to purchase the books you mention.

    Jason:

    The aircraft in the photo is NH757 of 414 Sqn RCAF. Info is from the excellent "2nd Tactical Airforce-volume 3-From the Rhine to Victory" by Christopher Shores and Chris Thomas.

    Alvin5182

    Awesome. Thank you very much. I shall also investigate that book. :thumbsup2:

  7. Hello,

    I recently purchased from ebay Fujimi's 1/72 Spitfire XIV.

    3212700532_cf70a1f0f7_o.jpg

    3212700576_e3b802eb82_o.jpg

    I bought this particular kit because I saw the picture below and decided I wanted to build that particular aircraft.

    3212700476_7e27b49fd5_o.jpg

    So far though, I haven't been able to identify the serial number, so I have found another couple of aircraft which I could build:

    3212700496_7287a5b3a3_o.jpg

    3212700410_564ce5b2b5_o.jpg

    So, can anyone identify the aircraft in the colour picture?

    The kit decals are useless, so I need to buy roundels, stencils, code and serial numbers. I can find stencils and there are various decal sets for the others, but I have no idea what size roundels or lettering is correct.

    There's a lot of resin stuff for this kit. Is any of it essential?

    What is the best course of action to give the cockpit a little more detail?

    Thanks,

    Jason

  8. Ammonia is supposed to work. I recently bought some Homebase Household Ammonia. As a test I dipped a spare, Klear coated canopy into the bottle and it hasn't clouded the part, not sure if it actually removed the Klear though!

    A word of caution. When using ammonia wear a mask and use it in a really well ventilated area.

  9. My bottle of Microset smells of vinegar. I 've stopped using it though as I find it has some sort of reaction with the clear that leaves brownish stains. Perhaps I have a dud bottle though if no-one else has experienced it?

  10. Hi there Jase

    I used the Quickboost barrels with the oval perforations. They look really good when painted black and then dry brushed with a gun metal shade. The Revell gun barrels are orrible and not at all convincing!!!

    The bombs were Gunze Vietnam camo green (the lighter shade - can't remember FS number) with a bit of fading. To do this i heavily diluted Tamiya sky grey and misted it on very lightly.

    The tyres are Revell acrylic Anthracite with a touch of black added to darken it down a bit. Wheel hubs are Tamiya acrylic gloss black.

    Hope that this helps?

    Rob

    That's great thanks, I've used the Revell gun barrels on the Lanc I'm building, but when I build another one I will definitely get some Quickboost barrels.

  11. Whilst attempting post-shading for the first time I made a little error. As you can see in the picture below, there's a couple of patches where I've put on too much paint and it has pooled. How should I go about fixing this? Don't really want to strip and re-paint the whole wing. :(

    3199218151_7b14d26613_o.jpg

  12. I have just received in the post a sheet of Xtradecals that I ordered. (Sheet X039-72 - Normandy Invasion)

    At first glance they look very nice, but if you look closer there seems to be an issue wth the roundels...

    On the red and blue roundels there appears to be a darker area of blue on each one where I think the blue is overlapping the red slightly.

    Is this normal? and is it likely to be visible on the finished models?

    I could sned them back, but I guess there is no guarantee that the replacements will be any better.

  13. Right, I'm getting there slowly. I'm almost ready to assemble the undercarriage, but looking at my reference pictures I can't figure out what colour the landing gear struts should be. The instructions in the kit would have me painting most of it black, but the pictures (in post 3 of this thread), show them to be much lighter in colour. They don't look like bare metal though, so what colour should they be?

  14. The BBMF A/C arein bits because of their winter overhaul.

    Ready for this years Airshow season.

    Of course, that makes sense.

    So, if it wasn't a BBMF one then that rules out the Griffon engine I think.

    Vickers McFunbus's suggestions seem like the most likely in that case.

  15. Could be either of two that have Invasion stripes, a PRXI or a PR XIX, the latter being Griffon powered :analintruder:

    Ta. I've been having a bit of a look on the net and I think the latter is most likely, but I'm sure it wasn't painted blue. The only other contenders are 2 seaters though and I'm sure it didn't have 2 seats. Curse my poor memory and eyesight!

  16. During my lunchtime walk I was lucky enough to see a Spitfire fly past almost directly above me.

    As there aren't many Spits flying these days I was wondering which one it was and any help would be appreciated.

    Facts:

    It had pointy (not clipped) wings.

    It had invasion stipes.

    I was in Marlow, Bucks.

    Not facts:

    Sounded like a Griffon engine to my untrained ear.

    I think it had a pointy tail.

    I don't think it was a 2 seater.

    I don't think it was painted blue.

    Any ideas? :)

  17. Hi

    There are some piccies in Lancaster at war. On Page 21 here is a piccie of a 44 Sqdn Lanc and it doesn't have the flared deflector, this is in 1942. In Lancaster at war 3 on page 93 there is a picture of a 467 Sqdn Lanc with the 4 gun .303 turret and the deflector so they were fitted before the Rose Rice turned up. I.m pretty sure that by late 42/early 43 they were being fitted as standard but haven't yet found the date it all started, hope this is of use,

    Regards

    Paul

    That's great Paul, thanks.

    With what you have said about them being fitted in late 42/early 43 and in the absence of photographic proof then if it wasn't factory fitted I'm going to imagine that the deflector was fitted at the same time as the larger nose blister!

  18. Nice Spit you've got there! Like yours, mine is also the Tamiya kit and I am using the Eduard PE set and some new decals, but still in the classic BoB colour scheme. I'm guessing I used the same colours as you (Vallejo Model Air Dark Green and Dark Earth and Duck Egg Green), but it looks in your photo that the colours came out lighter than mine. To be fair though it could be the camera, or the colour balance on my monitor...

    I was thinking about this problem earlier. I have an impression in my mind of what the correct shade of brown is, and that impression comes from the colour illustrations I have seen in books and magazines over the years, but where did the illustrators get their shade of brown from? The vast majority of photos from the era are black and white, and the few colour ones that exist have questionable colour reproduction. It could just be that nobody knows what the correct shade of brown is!

    Thanks, yes, I used those colours. Did you find that Tamiya tape would not stick to the Duck Egg Green? I had all sorts of problems getting tape to stick to it. My Spitfire does appear a lot darker under natural light. I look forward to seeing pics of your when it is finished.

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