thekz

Cool. I dream of learning such unobtrusive weathering

1. Paint the surface in the color that should look out from under the main paint. It is better that it is not a solid color, but a mosaic of different believable colors, like in this photo: 2. We dry well. At least 24 hours. 3. We cover with hairspray the places where there should be scuffs. Can be coated directly from the balloon, but it is best to pour it into an airbrush. 4. Immediately apply a thin layer of the base color. 5. Next, you need to erase the paint. Here options are possible: a softer brush moistened with alcohol or a harder one - with water. Depending on how long the base layer has dried, the result will also be slightly different. Ideally, combine different techniques. 6. If necessary, repeat steps 2-5 again.

Hello guys I returned. Dear Rob and Michael, I really want to apologize to you. I am not Mig Jimenez))) I very quickly realized that I cannot describe and comment on every layer of paint I applied. If only because the painting process at times got out of control and I had to change the original plans. The most difficult, oddly enough, turned out to be the painting of the sides in color 507C. I chose this color option over the dark gray sided one Rob was doing because I hoped to show the impact of autumn storms most effectively on the light gray color. For me it was very important painting. I will briefly describe how it happened: 1. Since Berwick's hull was painted a dark gray in the previous period of service, I decided that this color must be visible on the bow, stern, near the waterline and in other places. I took the color that I mixed as 507B, added a little white and yellow to it (thus depicting paint fading) and applied a thin layer on the pre-shading, rubbing with alcohol in the anchor hawse area, on the nose, etc., showed rust. 2. On top I began to apply a light gray, again erasing a little each layer. After 3-4 layers, I achieved the desired effect - the pre-shading is barely visible, rust and dark gray are sagging in the places of the chips. Everything was fine, except for one thing - the overall shade turned out to be too dark. More layers of 507C were needed. But they would have killed the preshading (((((. Here we had to change the plan. 3. I dried the paint well and covered the body with hairspray. The workshop smelled of girls))) It seems that there is some kind of special chemistry for this, but I'm used to hairspray (I just have a few bottles lying around. I have to spend it.) Then another layer of 507C, alcohol and a soft brush. We dry for a day and repeat. In the end, it turned out approximately what I intended - different areas of the board have different light gray shades. 4. I used the same method to paint the underwater part. There are different shades of rust under the red-brown. And not chaotically, but based on photos of real ships. For example: Here's what happened. Of course, I didn't stop there. Real paintings are painted in oil! The colors used were white, shade gray and a few browns. Basically, I applied thick paint with thin strokes, and then shaded it without a solvent with a hard brush. But a more typical method of application - an oil point and smearing with white spirit was also used. And here is a small wash with rusty, dark gray and olive colors. The oil takes a long time to dry. Therefore, in order not to get bored, I was engaged in leisurely work - I made deck fans and funnels braces

I myself wonder what will turn out in the end

Just call me Modigliani

My hands were itching to paint something for a long time. Finally I allowed myself to do it.)) I started with the fun part - the wooden deck. I admit that I have little experience in painting decks at a scale of 1/350, so the painting method was invented on the run. Perhaps it is somewhat complicated, but it is "fool-proof" - all stages are well controlled and it is possible to correct flaws. I must say that I do not use special paints for scale models, but inexpensive acrylic for artists. The main difference between these paints, besides the price, is that they are less opaque. Therefore, if someone wants to try my method using Tamiya or Vallejio paints, it is necessary to take this difference into account and either use more contrasting shades or dilute the main color with varnish, or somehow modernize the method “for yourself”. First I mixed three of these colors: The first stage: a chaotic airbrush drawing with colors 1 and 2. Color 1 also covers the metal areas of the deck, which will then be simulated with rust. Scratches on the fresh paint in the direction of the planks were made with alcohol and brushes of different hardness. Color 3 is applied with random strokes. Either brush strokes with liquid paint alternate, or vice versa - with an almost dry brush. Pay attention to the brush - I tried several and the best fit was this heavily swept almost completely unusable. I often save these brushes - they are good for simulating rust, scuffs, etc. Then everything is quite simple - two thin layers of color 3. When applying paint, do not strive for uniformity, the airbrush torch is small, the direction of movement is along the boards. While you can stop at this. The wash will come later. ____________________________________________ PS: Is this Berwick in 1949? No, this is preshading)))))

Gentlemen! I came across information on the web (not confirmed by a photo and links to any documents) that Warspite received the well-known camouflage not during the modernization at the shipyard in Phuket, but much earlier - even before the battle of Matapan. Has anyone seen the confirmation of this version of the photo? As for HMS Valiant - I will be grateful for any legible photos of him in this camouflage.

Definitely a good idea. To be honest, I also had an ambitious plan - one Walrus with folded wings in an open hangar, the second with folded wings on a catapult. I made one with folded ones and made sure that it did not fit in the hangar ((( I had to change plans. Is it realistic to open the hangar? Really! To do this, you need to replace its side walls with thinner ones and most likely make your own Walrus on a scale of about 1/380. Then he will climb into the hangar. I didn’t dare to do this. Sorry....

As I promised, I'm talking about gophers. What it is? Russian modelers call a gopher a part, as a rule - independently made or heavily modified, which turns out to be invisible on the finished model. Moreover, the more complicated this detail, the fatter the gopher. I would be grateful if readers would tell me what the English call it. In the meantime, we will call it in our way - gophers. I admit, I never make gophers on purpose. But they themselves somehow work out. The best place to breed gophers in Berwick is the airplane hangar. He can't be empty! The second Walrus was assembled there. He really did not want to climb into the hangar - he had to shorten the left stabilizer by half and narrow the left pair of wings. I was ashamed to photograph such a mutilated Walrus separately and hastily hid it in the hangar. Q.E.D! Of course, you can notice that there is someone in the hangar, but ... I think you already understood everything yourself. Photographing a gopher is even more difficult than it is! I had to give up my favorite black background and even resort to using Photoshop. After all, everyone can see that there is Walrus? And that it has braces on wings? Here's another wall And this is the back wall of the hangar. There are no gophers here, don't look.)) Here Trumpeter saved on ventilation pipes - there should be two thick ones (on Cornwall too) Another gopher l was caught outside the burrow in time. Here I defeated vanity and captured a homemade catapult. Yes, everything is very sloppy. God grant that she could be seen at least a little.

Yes. Cooper wire 0.15 mm, twisted on a drill 0.3 mm

In my opinion, the main decoration of County-class cruisers is their funтels. Of course, the real beauty comes after applying camouflage and installing braces, but it's already pretty in this form. The main improvement at this stage are steam-pipes. Trumpeter simplified them a lot - in the set all 8 are the same and too short. In reality, there were 7 of them on Berwick. The extra one was useful for lengthening the rest. I made bends in different ways - I bent over the heat and glued them out of pieces. As a result, it turned out crooked. But, thank God, on the finished model it will be impossible to look at the pipes exactly from the bow or stern. And with a half-turn it looks kind of acceptable. The pipe fittings, internal pipes and sirens forgotten by the Chinese are made of wire and sprue. Now I breed gophers in the hangar. What happened and why there are gophers in the hangar - I`ll write in the next post. To be continued...

Let me share my experience. It's better to use toilet paper, not a kitchen towel, and the cheapest one. Apply a layer of PVA diluted with water, on top - a layer of toilet paper, then another layer of PVA and so on - up to 5 times. Wait a little. The paper will turn into porridge, we form this mass with a palette knife, spatula, table knife, teaspoon or whatever is more convenient for you))). After 2 hours everything will dry up and you can add more try it - it's very simple

Gidday, I also thought about the conversion of Cornwall to Cumberland at one time. As a result, I decided to limit myself to Berwick (he is now busy). Here is a photo of Cumberland and his Suffolk Sistership that I managed to find: https://mega.nz/folder/g88m2RKa#x-cX71aOEw7lR48twd2yzA hope this information will help you anyway - good luck

I would be attracted to the heroic service of Cairo. e.g. fight 15.06.42 against Italian cruisers

Gidday, Rob! I wish you a successful building Do you have a desire to make a conversion from Calcutta to Cairo?

Apparently the difference between our projects is that you make 5 models a year, and I make one. But your Berwick is already finished and looks very impressive on the whole. Even my wife liked it.)))) I am still very far from the end. And there are still many chances to make mistakes..

Ladders from Microdesigh, if it matters.

The crisis with the portholes has been overcome. Made all sorts of small things along the ports. Collected anchor chains. The chains are from the kit. Yes, they are oversized, I know, but I have nothing better. In order not to get bored while the putty dries, I was busy with boats. Here's a rare 1920s style boat. There is one in the kit - instead of the second a stack of logs. But I wanted to put two. All the more the stacking on the Berwick is not visible in any photos. The second under the awning is made of scrap materials. Work is underway on the hangar. The detailing of the front funnel is also almost ready. It remains to collect. Every success Thekz

I understand your position. I am trying to restore the historical appearance of the ship, not because I am afraid of criticism on the site. and I understand that I will never achieve 100% historicity. but fantasy modeling is not interesting to me

I thought so too. Berwick is a little easier to make, although there are also a lot of small differences, and most importantly there is little photographic material on the basis of which they can be noticed. To be honest, I'm afraid that my so-called Berwick 70 percent will remain a repainted Cornwall.

Converting Cornwall to Suffolk is certainly possible, albeit very time consuming. Here is an example of such courage: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=202855&hilit=suffolk

You understand people surprisingly well. The monastery is my dream. ((((( Let's go back to the ships. top Berwick, below - Cornwall. You haven't noticed the most famous difference - the position of the front twin 4”turret and the position of 32ft boat below it. That is why the garbage chute is so important - everyone who is in the subject will consider this area first. They also have a slightly different superstructure under the catapult, but this is not visible in these photos.

Attention to everyone who is going to make Berwick from Cornwall! Read and tell your friend!))) I found a photo of Berwick and Cornwall from almost the same angle. I drew a collage like this: What differences are striking? Another position of the chute. The point is not that it is so difficult to make a new garbage chute (cut off the old one so that it is probably impossible to transfer). The fact is that when drilling the portholes, I was guided by it! Horror! We'll have to re-drill at least 10 portholes from each side and re-make visors on them ((( Of course, at first I wanted to hide my discovery from the people and leave everything as it is. But after three days of doubts I realized that after such an act I could not consider myself a modeler. Alea iacta est! I cut the trash chute on the port side. Wish me good luck...

I must apologize to you: it's been a month and a half now, I've been building Berwick, but I've been putting off writing this post. Everything seemed to me that it was too early. But now my hands have reached. So that there was nowhere to retreat, I started with a stormy sea. The technology is standard - the base is penoplex, waves are made of toilet paper on white glue, then painted with acrylic, volume is added with the help of transparent glue "Liquid nails" and covered with glossy varnish. The plate was drawn in Photoshop and printed on a photo printer. The wake jet is made of sintepon coated with white glue. I will use the same method to make foam and spray around the bow, but this, of course, after painting the hull. Work is underway on the sides: I drilled the portholes, added visors to them made of 0.25 mm copper wire, reworked the shape of the garbage chute and exhaust pipes, added the borders of the casing sheets. Of course, it will not work without an aftermarket - in the photo there are ladders and winches from MICRODESIGN. And this is my challenge to the aftermarket - the first generation of self-made people in pea jackets. Of course, this is worse than resin figures, but IMHO it is much more convincing than flat people with triangular heads from Eduard. Some more little things - Valrus with folded wings (braces will be after painting) and a 32-foot cutter. On this I say goodbye)

Happy New Year, guys! Inspired by the work of the esteemed Rob, I began to build my version of the heavy cruiser HMS "Berwick" based on Trumpeter's "Cornwall". Doing Berwick for November 1940, before the battle at Cape Spartivento. I would like to make a stormy sea typical for this time of year. Like my previous projects, I plan to use a mini aftermarket details and everything that I can modify myself (I have nowhere to rush!). I also want to make my own crew figures. I think it will not be as difficult as it seems - firstly, in fresh weather there should not be many sailors on deck. Secondly, the figures in storm jackets are not very difficult to make.) Gentlemen! I would be very grateful if someone shares a photo of Berwick. Photos from 1940 are especially interesting. For my part, I share what I managed to find: https://mega.nz/folder/E5cFXArQ#eznRe1pyYHcTpIfYdcBSwg