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thekz

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Everything posted by thekz

  1. Hi guys! Forgive me for not writing anything for a while. I haven't taken a break from my Berwick at all, nor have I been busy with other projects. On the contrary - I have been very busy. I'll report back item by item: 1. These are the cranes that turned out. It's a shame, the way manufacturers usually simplify them! 2. The big launches. We have even had a discussion about a motor one with a deckhouse. I agree with @Dave Swindell and @Ships doc who have written that the look of the dinghy is questionable. but I have long ago made a deckhouse for this barge in the course of testing a new soldering iron and really wanted to use it. As a result, on the starboard side will be such a non-skid dinghy 3. All sorts of trivia and the latest generation of homemade sailors. 4. As the cherry on the cake - 8 barrel pom-poms. Used parts from kit, syringe needles, copper wire, foil and flywheels 1.2mm from our favourite NorthStar Models as ... gunsights All good things come to an end sometime. I finished with finalizing parts for Berwick. All that remains is to paint the parts of this post, put them in place, pull the remaining rigging and raise the flags on the halyards. The work is already well under way Anyway, expect my Berwick in RFI by Christmas. Thanks to everyone who reads me
  2. Good job! You can see the Russian from afar
  3. thekz

    Oars on motor lanch

    You are very convincing, but what we see in these fragments looks like a rendered cabin, not "misinterpreted hatches in an engine housing for access to fuel cocks, dipsticks and decompressors etc"
  4. thekz

    Oars on motor lanch

    so the lack of paddles in the 3D rendering is probably a mistake?
  5. thekz

    Oars on motor lanch

    A similar launch was used on Royal Navy cruisers in the 1930s and 1940s. Length probably 40-47 ft. HMS Berwick pictured Between 1930 and 1937: october 1941: Now I`m making her model in 1/350
  6. thekz

    Oars on motor lanch

    Does anyone know if oars were used on such a lanch?
  7. Hi guys! Here I am with my monthly photo report. Finished the main gun turrets, painted them and put them in place. No glue yet. Finally got the bow boom to the condition I had in mind. Reworked the water jets several times. Would very much like to hear what you think, how believable it is: @Chewbacca @Ex-FAAWAFU and others, unknown to me so far, gentlemen who have seen a serious ship in a serious sea, I will be very happy to hear your critique! Believe me, I'm not asking for compliments! Perhaps there is still room for improvement. By the way an interesting tip on making water jets was found in Ruben Gonzalez: I tried it, using "liquid nails" glue instead of AK8002. Doesn't look bad! PS I thought that after the 8'' turrets, refinishing the rest of the parts was a matter of technique. But Trumpeter had other plans! Look at the PE detail that is supposed to represent the crane arm. It's very neat, beautiful, one problem - the boom turns out to be unrealistically narrow. Here is a photo of a real crane. I had to arm myself with a soldering iron, superglue and hope for the grace of God. Here's the result. More later...
  8. If there is a secret, it is that I try to take my time. In those moments when I want to finish and start another project as soon as possible, I tell myself that the same technological operations are waiting for me there. I have a very modest budget for modelling, so I have to make many of the details myself.
  9. You just have a much smaller scale. I built one model in 1/700. I'm not doing it again.
  10. Hi guys! Big news from my home yard! The masts are painted and in place. Most of the rigging has been stretched. More and more self-made sailors in jackets are taking up their posts. A little-noticed, but psychologically very important milestone has been overcome - the leers on the lower level of the superstructure. The fact is that the shape of this level is the main difference between the Berwick and the Cornwall, and therefore it was impossible to do without leers from the kit. I had to apply inquisitorial methods to them And here's the homebaked Micro Master! Two of the four 8" turrets have been refinished. Of course, the Micro Master has smaller rivets and tidier parts, but the pleasure of doing it all yourself is incomparable! IMHO I still miss the splash in the bow. Added more but it's not over yet) Thanks to everyone who reads me
  11. it's really weird for me to read this. Indeed, I studied English at school and university (during the Soviet Union, when English teachers were not able to communicate with native speakers). Then I didn't practice English for many years and now I use auto-translation software to write all my sweats, substituting only specific navy vocabulary. Your compliments should be redirected to the makers of these software! Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
  12. Thank you, Jeff. I haven't actually stopped my work on Berwick for a day. But my poor English and introverted temperament prevents me from writing often
  13. Hello, guys! In past projects I have had difficulties with plastic spars. The rods and mast tops on Trumpeter`s models are very flexible and brittle. Not to mention the risk of breaking them, they lose their shape when the rigging is stretched. Berwick's thin masts were frightening to look at already on the sprues! Especially in the kit the mainsail was without maintopmast, so the question arose - what to make a spar out of? I chose bamboo toothpicks. Here's what came out: Unfortunately, I didn't have many photos of the maintopmast. I made a seaman on battens to liven it up (yes, it's a seaman, not Winnie the Pooh or Kungfu Panda) The foremast is a little better documented, and will hopefully be an ornament to the finished model. Winnie the Pooh in this case climbed into the crow's nest. Of course, to finally understand whether the material for the spar is successful or not will be possible much later, when I pull the rigging. And these are the hand-finished artellery directors and anti-aircraft machine guns: More later)
  14. here I have depicted my hypothesis about the arrangement of colors. the link is available for this picture in eps format. I hope you can use it to depict your version https://mega.nz/file/Ut1FEISI#-Mis_09-t233mYJkOduBtnhZa-0Zm1E1ZiImWlTINZY
  15. Specify the task, please: do you need a vector drawing of a ship or only camouflage spots superimposed on a raster image of the ship should be vectors?
  16. In spite of the heat, despondency and the European Football Championship, my Berwick continues to grow in details)
  17. I have such pictures of course, this is not a vector, but maybe they will do
  18. Hello, I would like to hear your opinion on one of the most beautiful camouflages of the Second World War - the battleship HMS Queen Elizabeth 1941 This is how it looks in an illustration from the book Les Brown And this is how Alen Raven The question is not even about the shape of the paterns - it certainly needs to be clarified. I find the range of colors offered by Les Brown rather strange. Isn't it logical to assume the standard MS1-MS2-MS3-507C set for that time? The color white seems especially strange to me. Take a look at this photo: you can clearly see the white waterline mark on a “white” background. In short, I will be very glad to all well-reasoned opinions on this matter. Especially interesting is the opinion by @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies
  19. Nice. Although personally for me to look at the cruisers is more interesting. Hope you can solve the free space problem
  20. You probably call this material by a different word. This is a synthetic wadding that is used as insulation for winter clothing. Cotton wool is likely to work with this method.
  21. polystyrene parts I glue with super liquid glue like this it should spread over the entire surface - it does not spoil it. As for the superglue, strangely enough it is easier to work with the thick version that has the word "gel" on it. It's not about the manufacturer. I am now using a very cheap Chinese from Ashan. pour out a small drop of this gel onto an unnecessary piece of plastic and either directly dip the parts into it or pick up with a toothpick. liquid superglue is actually harder to work with. but you can get used to good luck
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