Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Crimea River

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Crimea River last won the day on February 3

Crimea River had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,489 Excellent

1 Follower

About Crimea River

  • Rank
    Obsessed Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
  • Interests
    WW2 Aircraft Models, Mosquito Restoration

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The OP said single engine
  2. Also bubble top Typhoon/Tempest
  3. Good references. I edited my post to say 74/75 rather than 75/76 but the photos make my point moot anyway.
  4. Assuming that the pictures referred to by Touvdal don't contradict the following, I would suggest the possibility that the new colours were applied over the standard factory 74/75 using the same demarcations. The precedent is there as Paul Allen's tri-colour FW190A-5 was found to have used this technique on the wings after the restorers meticulously peeled back the layers of paint to the bare metal.
  5. Well they did put the ground starter socket in the wrong place on their new Mk I Spit. Not major and easily mistaken given its been put there on modern restorations for safety.
  6. It would depend on whether the flame dampers were added to an existing cowling as a mod or incorporated during production.
  7. That's unfortunate but if you don't enjoy the work then there is no point. The Tamiya one might be better for you.
  8. Yeah I started with that and trimmed to suit. I think I just installed the wheels then bent the wheel and axle until they were at the right angle then put a dab of CA on the bent part in case it cracked.
  9. If this Italeri kit is a reboxing of one of the Dragon kits then I've had this experience. I built what Dragon called the "A-5 Special" and found the retraction arms to be far too short. I found this out quite late when I was gluing gluing the undercarriage into place: In the above image, the strut at left shows how this all goes together without mods. The strut at right, minus the retraction arm, is where I judged the correct position to be. The remedy I used was to snip the eye from the end of the arm and add a short length of card: With the main strut in the correct position, I then snipped the extension to the desired length and glued the two pieces of the modified arm into place: It's a fairly simple modification that is well worth the effort. Good luck! Andy
  10. My favourite method uses this, picked up at sewing or knitting stores: The method is described part way down this post and later on in the same thread.
  11. Well, here's a case where it did: https://ww2aircraft.net/forum/threads/1-48-xp-55-ascender-prototype-weird-aircraft-trainers.46670/page-3#post-1540894 Vac form canopy before: After two weeks on a sunny window sill:
  12. Well, I'll be the outlier and suggest that you put it out in the sun for a day or two. Nothing to lose and sunshine is cheap. A member on another forum tried this and had some of the yellow disappear.
  13. Lovely work. I'd like to try that dot filtering as well. I've seen some done badly but your model looks superb.
  14. Excellent build. The paint scheme is nicely done and the weathering looks very realistic.
  • Create New...