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Ol' Scrapiron

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About Ol' Scrapiron

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  • Birthday August 8

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  • Location
    Puyallup, WA
  • Interests
    Vintage aircraft, especially B-17 Flying Fortress.

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  1. Bring on Wing #2 Today was all about trying to duplicate the look of the first wing without screwing anything up Out came the dremel and again four simple parts were hacked into 12. Clean up went much faster this time, having learned a bit from the previous wing. Work on the nacelle also was much more efficient this go round. Some soft solder was pressed into the nacelle... ...which provided a nice template for the forward bulkhead. Not the exact shape, but a good starting point. - Rivet
  2. I look forward to seeing your build having seen one in action at several local events. They are gangly but just lift off the ground almost instantly. I swear a good gust of wind would allow these to be vertical takeoff aircraft. Interesting to see a full radial engine among the kit parts. The Storch that flies just up the road from me looks to have more of an in-line engine, but might be a difference in the German- vs. Italian-built versions. Here are a few om ny shots of the Fi 156 C-2 4362 at the Flying Heritage Collection - and the
  3. The scratchwork on those seats is really nice. I am enjoying this because we have a Junkers Ju 87 R-4 Stuka being built at the Flying Heritage Collection in Everett (just a few miles up the road from me) As a bonus, the work in progress is being displayed in the museum hangar so visitors can appreciate it (and take pics!) I'll hold off on sharing photos of the seats because you have already done such a good job that any differences would be unnecessarily distracting at this point. However, here are a few shots of the engine firewall in case they can help you g
  4. Time to get the tail in gear... The last few days have seen slight amounts of progress in several areas, but mostly unworthy of an update. However, yesterday I took a big leap and hacked the control surfaces off of the tail area. My goal was to add some drop to the elevators as seen in my pic of B-25J 44-31032 “Problem Child” on display at March AFB. I also wanted to have the rudders turned slightly. Even when they are not turned there is a substantial gap visible on the real planes, so the kit rudders needed to be removed and repositioned.
  5. Wait... I may have answered my own question. You must be talking about in the very front... I guess I took "the small angled one on the starboard cockpit side" to mean the angled panel that is close to the back side of the nose section (near the windscreen) Since it is really on the underside of the plane, could you do what some museums do and just paint the "window" either blue or black to imply the glazing? Maybe even the interior color (with some hint of detail as if you're seeing inside?) and then really put a good gloss coat on when
  6. Which glazed panel are you missing? Your front end on that side matches pretty close to the Blenheim nose section I shot at the IWM Duxford way back when (2008)... and the Blenheim (Bolingbroke) at Pima just a couple years ago I also shot the Blenheim at the RAF Museum outside London but didn't get a pic of the right side (several of the left but that won't help). I don't see what you're missing -- your project looks nice!
  7. Super simple update for today... First off was filing and sanding the top/bottom pieces that will make up the aileron and two-part flaps. The aileron pieces go together fully, but the flaps make a dramatic "V" from the trailing edge with a wide gap at the forward edge (because the wing is much thicker there). Also, the top of the flap is much less exposed in the normal position than will be needed in the lowered/extended position. Looking from the side, instead of a "V" it looks more like a checkmark. Hope that makes sense. I filled in the area with some balsa wood and
  8. Now I've gone and done it!!! It was decision time and I made some bold steps... But let's do this in order. This morning I set out to replicate the cowl flaps on the first engine and even streamlined the process a little. Problem was that I moved so fast I forgot to paint the inside of the ring green before adding the new flaps. This meant that I would probably ruin the nice "real metal" from the soda can when I tried to brush some color underneath. Two engines looking pretty good for the moment. In a moment of foolishness, I broke out
  9. Cockpit update I just couldn't stop after I made the post about the cowl flaps. Installed the IP and the yokes. Note the extra throttles made from wire and drops of Elmers glue for the handles. I went with red for the knobs purely so they'd be easier to see. In the Mitchell they would be side-by-side but I opted for up/down because it was easier to get the wire to attach that way. The wire is flexible eneough I may try to bend them to be sideways once it all dried and cure. If not, I am OK as it is. - - - On my screen t
  10. What's the flap? Today's adventure included opening up the cowl flaps. After looking at some of the pics I have taken, I decided that on the real deal there really is not a lot of difference between the surface of the flaps when they are closed and the area beneath the flaps while they are open. Let me start by sharing some photos to help demonstrate... B-25J 44-30823 “Pacific Prowler” McChord AFB B-25D 43-3318 “Grumpy” Paine Field Step one was using a pin vise to punch some holes just large enough to accept bi
  11. Getting ahead of myself... oops! While I was putting together the pieces that make up the command deck and the access tunnel, I thought the little foot pedals looked oddly small. I checked the shot of my son inside B-25J 43-35972 “Maid in the Shade” and there are definitely arms that reach down to the pedals So I set out to recreate this on the project using stretched sprue Of course, when I located the instrument panel I found the other pedal parts were attached. I am going to trim the kit's parts off and use the ones I fabricated. The pa
  12. Engines (Part 2) My experience using thick wire for the pushrods on the first engine was frustrating as it was difficult to get the very short pre-cut pieces to glue into the right position, and the longer pieces tended to break off when I tried to clip them (probably my own impatience working before the cement had properly set.) So, for engine 2 I opted to use stretched spue -- cheap (free) and plays nice with just Testors plastic cement. After the glue had set, I trimmed the rods and then added the bent lengths of 34-gauge wire Thos
  13. Re: leading edge gun area The Thunderbolt at the NMoUSAF even has it painted special. Here are some pics I've shot of various P-47s in museums and airshows. Hope they help you decide how much to emphasize on your build. P-47D 45-49167 “Five by Five” NMoUSAF 2018 P-47D 45-49295 Thunderbolt II RAF Museum London 2008 P-47D-15RA 42-23278 “Fiery Ginger” NMoUSAF 2018 P-47D 45-49406 “Tallahassee Lassie” Flying Heritage Collection - P-47D 44-90471 “Hairless Joe”
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