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jelliott523

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About jelliott523

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    Idaho, USA
  1. I dont think this is exclusively to the nose gear. Take the Academy F-4's for example, they have you add the main landing gear very early in the build, and these are fairly complex assemblies IMHO. I broke them off when building my F-4B and I wasnt able to get them to align properly so it looks off, when looking at it from straight on. I still have the F-4J in my stash and I'm looking to see if I can come up with a way to modify the main gear for that build so I dont run into the same problem.
  2. I've built a few of the Revell kits and they are great, as everyone has mentioned. I picked up the Hasegawa missles and bombs sets to enhance the Revell kits. I've not built the GWH kit yet; however, I'm currently working on the GWH F-15C kit and its pretty good. The detail is excellent but the tolerances are tight, if you are off in one area, it will come back and bite you later.
  3. No worries! I'm looking forward to starting my kit after the New Year. Trying to get several others finished up that were started this past year.
  4. In regards to your question about the wing sweep oil and marks, I saw another builder who installed the wings, then took a pencil and drew light marks as he moved the wings fully forward and aft to draw on the paint. Then he took oils and highlighted the areas, when it was finished it looked great and very authentic. I do not remember what site this was on, possibly on a Facebook group for building the Tamiya F-14.
  5. She's lookin good Marlin! Good job on picking up the metal gear! I recently built this exact same kit (actually still under construction) and I didnt think ahead and used the kit gear....BIG MISTAKE!!! I had the thing all set and ready and when I placed her on her legs, after a day and a half, both of the main gear were warped terribly! I have since removed the kit plastic gear and bought some metal gear from Scale Aircraft Conversions to get some support. I am hoping to have these soon so I can complete mine. Other than the gear, the kit does go together wonderfully and only had a couple of very small areas where I needed to use filler.
  6. Matt, my apologies! I didnt catch the part about you referencing the metal and a primer for that. I would agree, Stynylrez by itself is not good to use on photo-etch. In this case, for me, I use Mr. Hobby/Mr. Metal Primer before doing any painting on photo-etch, even then, I've not had the best of luck keeping paint sticking. I may look for another, possibly a cheap automotive primer that I can use.
  7. I have switched 95% of my priming to the Stynylrez/UMP Primer which are the same thing, they are made by Badger Air Brush in the US. I typically use the black, grey, and white. I have noticed that the regular black is somewhat thinner than the grey and white and I can spray it just fine in my Badger Renegade Krome with the .2 needle at around 25psi, I do get a little tip dry, but that is likely due to the small needle size. I will sometimes also spray it through my Paasche Talon with the .3 needle. I have not thinned the black primer; however, when spraying the grey and white, I do typically add a few drops of the UMP thinner to the mix and it flows well. As to the comment about this thinner only forming a skin on the surface and not bonding, I have to disagree. I have used the Ammo of Mig Primers (before they came out with One Shot - which btw is also Stynylrez) and it acted the same as the Vallejo primer and they would just roll and peel off the surface no matter what. With Stynylrez, prior to spraying the primer, I will wipe down the model with 91% ISO alcohol to remove any dirt and or grime left by my hands. After spraying, letting the primer fully cure for several hours is recommended. I usually let mine sit for a good day or so, if I'm going to need to do any sanding. This primer will feather and blend perfectly without rolling up and peeling off.
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