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diablo rsv

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Everything posted by diablo rsv

  1. I wasn't sure at first but it gets a lot more use than I thought it would. It works very much like a printer, you would however need a computer to use it as you need to use it's dedicated software to set up the cutter and alter settings. You can do the design work in it's own program or other programs and send the design to the Silhouette program. That dates you to around the same age as me, I had exactly those thoughts as well, if only I had known where it was all heading I would have taken a lot more notice and could have probably made a fortune. Wayne
  2. Nice start Kristjan, It will be really interesting to see what you do with this one. It was one of the nicest kits that I have built. Wayne
  3. Nice to see this progressing again Darryl. Good idea with the Panzer Putty, the wheels have come out really well but I can't help thinking it might have been quicker/easier using a compass cutter, assuming you have one, to cut some masks. Wayne
  4. Impressive work Torbjörn! This is really shaping up to be a lovely model. Wayne
  5. Thanks Stix @PlaStix, very kind of you. I have made a little bit of progress over the last few days and I think it's beginning to take shape. The tracks were painted with a metallic brown colour before being weathered with various washes and pigments. The worn areas were brushed over with some good old Humbrol Metal Cote polished steel, a product I had totally forgotten about until Bertie @Bertie Psmith reminded me of it in his Valentine project. Overall I am pretty pleased with how the tracks look for now. The wheels were also weathered with some pigments and then the bazooka plates could be added to hide it all. I have started work on some of the detail painting such as the exhausts and mantlet cover and also made a start on some stowage with a camouflage net made from some old plasterers scrim and painted strips of masking tape. The straps are made from more Tamiya tape and some photo etched buckles. I probably need to add a little more weathering to get it to look right but it's not far from what I was aiming for. I'm not sure what to add to the other side of the turret. There is a photo but its not a very high resolution one and I can't make out what tools they have strapped to it. Gun cleaning rods? If anyone has any ideas it would be very much appreciated. @Das Abteilung? Maybe I will just add some tarps and bedrolls if I can't work it out. For now though I shall carry on with the detail painting before tackling the final weathering. The end is in sight! Wayne
  6. Excellent work Andrew! There is soo much to take in. All those extra details really give life to the model. Brilliant! Wayne
  7. Sort of, they are wider than the standard Cromwell tracks, I think the Challenger may have used them as well. I also have a replacement idler wheel as most of the Charioteers had the later pressed one.
  8. Excellent progress Ed, it would take me months to get that far. Wayne
  9. This is it on my Centurion, personally I think the detail is nice but the circular guard still looks a little thick and it's possibly slightly undersized. Maybe etch would still be a better material. I'm not sure if there were different styles though. Excellent work on the pistol port, I still think I might go with the Tamiya turret on mine though as I'm not convinced by the weld beads on the bolts, easy enough to alter the Airfix ones but it's just another bit of unnecessary work. Wayne
  10. Thanks Bertie, I have it on hold for a week or two whilst I work on the Centurion but I must admit I'm itching to get on with it. If only I could find more time, life keeps getting in the way. Wayne
  11. Lovely work John, You would never know this was a scratch built conversion. Wayne
  12. Thanks Bertie, If I had let it go it would have just bugged me every time I looked at it, you know how it is, once seen and all that. I've been doing this long enough now to know that cutting corners never pays off. Thanks Ed, I could kick myself really, If I had made the stencils in the first place I wouldn't have needed to put that much extra effort in. 🙄 Thanks John, It's one of those things where you think "is the expense worth it"? but I guess the average model with detail sets and paints etc must be well over the £100 mark plus the hours spent working on it, so I just hate having iffy decals spoiling the thing. They seem to be selling at around £225, I'm sure I paid less than that for it but every thing seems to have had a price hike at the moment. Wayne
  13. @APA, @PlaStix, @Jasper dog, @Bertie Psmith, @LeeM, @Lazy Modeller Thank you all for taking the time to comment, your input is very much appreciated. I thought I would take the opportunity to try out a couple of different weathering products on the lower hull as most of it will be hidden behind the bazooka plates. The first of these was the acrylic paste for adding heavy texture, I used this on the underside of the track guards but I didn't really get along with it though as it dries fairly quickly and it needed painting over once it had dried, so I went back to my usual pigments, fillers and fixers. I have a photo of one of the Operation Sentry tanks sitting in a field where it had churned up the soil and these vehicles had also covered a lot of miles during the trials therefore I am assuming they got pretty dirty, so I'm trying to recreate the look of a dirty tank with a build up of drying mud. I will probably add some oil and grease stains but I don't think I'm far off from the look I wanted. Unfortunately I spoke too soon regarding the decals. They did appear to settle down nicely. And this is why I hate decals, once I applied the flat coat over the model the carrier film became very apparent. I'm not entirely sure why this happened, I know I could have trimmed the film around the sentry boxes but AFV had used white backing paper which made it difficult to see where to cut and it would have been impossible to trim around the serial numbers. So I felt I had no choice but to remove them and cut some stencils. which I should have done in the first place, that will teach me to be lazy. The paint work was repaired and I set about designing and making the stencils. Finding the correct font was difficult but the one I chose was close enough. I took a photo of the Sentry box emblem that is in one of Dick Taylor's Warpaint books and uploaded it into the design software where it could be converted to a stencil. The Portrait cutter is an impressive piece of kit and it's amazing how small you can cut once the correct settings can be found. The Sentry box scales out at around 8mm. It was a slightly time consuming process applying the paint as there are five colours to spray. I really wished I had trimmed those kit decals at this point. The end result was worth the effort though. No more carrier film. After that little hiccup I can hopefully get back on track, literally, with getting the running gear put on. Wayne
  14. Great start, I shall watch your progress with interest. I also built the 'battle bus' and toyed with the idea of doing the pigeon loft conversion but when Miniart released the pigeon set I thought the.loft was bound to follow. Wayne.
  15. Top notch detailing as always John. If you're still looking for ariel bases I just got some of these from accurate armour. https://accurate-armour.com/aa-products/135th-accessories/a187 They look like they are 3d printed. I have just used one on my Cent and I will post a photo later. Annoying about the Village photos situation, I use Imgur and so far so good. Just hope you don't jinx them.😁 Wayne
  16. Excellent detailing work, looking forwards to seeing this progress. Wayne
  17. The paint work looks good Darryl, the chipping on the suspension units has worked well. Wayne
  18. Up to your usual high standards again Ed, looks really good. Wayne
  19. Thanks Guys, looks like I've been neglecting this thread a bit. I have a Silhouette Portrait cutter John, it's become one of my favourite tools now, I try to use it as much as I can to create masks so I don't have to use decals and it's very handy for the wheel masks as well. I have managed to get some paint on at last. Using my preferred brand, which is MRP, I put down a base coat of SCC.15 Olive Drab and in an attempt to add some variation I mixed in some very dark brown for the shaded areas and some buff for the highlights. I like to keep the effect pretty subtle as I find that the monotone schemes are generally broken up by the weathering stages. The phone photos actually exaggerate the effect a little. As you can see I have also added the markings. I used the kit decals despite what I said above, in this case the ones AFV provided were quite nice with fairly thin carrier film and good register. I used some Micro Set/Sol on them and they settled down very nicely. Once dry I gave them a slight misting with some SSC.15 to tone them down a little. MRP paints dry to a lovely smooth satin finish which is ideal for the pin washes which is what I will be doing next. Wayne
  20. I've managed to find the time to tackle the tracks and I thought it would be easier to fit them before joining the upper and lower hull together. The Charioteer ran on a wider 15.5” track and Accurate Armour provides these as resin sections. I've used resin tracks a couple of times now and I actually quite like them. They need a bit of care removing them from the casting block as they are quite delicate and I found with these ones a couple of passes with a knife blade did the trick. Once removed there is a bit of cleaning up to do but it is mostly flash and doesn't take too long. The sections are then superglued together to make up one complete run. There was quite a curve in the run but I would rather have a tight join between the sections as they can be straightened out afterwards by applying heat from a hairdryer and pushing them, up against a straight edge. I then heated up the rear section of track and placed the track over the wheels. Whilst still soft the rear section can be formed around the drive sprocket and allowed to cool. The front section was then heated and formed around the idler wheel. The join was made at the bottom of the track and once dry more heat can be applied where needed and the track moulded to the required shape. It's actually easier to do than it is for me to explain. They still need a little tweaking but that's easy enough to do by re-heating as necessary. The new turret ring was also a little warped in my kit but using the same heating process as the tracks it was soon sorted it out. Once I was happy enough with the tracks I could join the hull together and now I carry on with detail parts. Fair play to Derek at Accurate Armour as well, a couple of days after emailing him regarding my missing drivers door and other parts they arrived in the post. That's it for now. I really should get back to the Centurion. Wayne
  21. Thanks Darryl They do do some interesting stuff but from what I can gather the quality can vary. My only experiences are the Matilda Mk.1 and this conversion plus a few bits and bobs. Thanks John, I've started on the easy stuff really, the pace will soon slow down. Thanks for the link, I have been using some images of that tank but it's handy having them all in one place. Probably this time next year knowing me, I'm trying to not get tempted away by other projects. Thanks Dave. I did find some of those scrap yard photos, mostly they focus on one tank though. I did read somewhere that they used whatever hulls were available but most of what I've seen appear to be F hulls. I wonder if they upgraded the hulls during the conversion work. Wayne
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