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diablo rsv

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Everything posted by diablo rsv

  1. Thanks for your interest gentlemen, I have only had a quick look at the kit but from what I have seen it shouldn't be too difficult, but you are right Roger the resin is quite brittle. Wayne
  2. I haven't looked at that one yet but I rarely trust museum exhibits when it comes to paint schemes. I will do a little more research when I get there but I imagine they would have been painted Khaki Green No.3 with Dark Green No.4 as a disruptive colour. AA suggest Mid Bronze Green with Deep Bronze Green. Wayne
  3. Well done you indeed Andrew. I love the way that has turned out, there is a lot to like. The way you have weathered it is just right, the mantlet cover and camo nets look very authentic and the accessories are the icing on the cake. Wayne
  4. Very nice Milan. I haven't seen many of these finished, including my own. I love these early British tanks and now I have seen yours I think I really must get mine past the finishing post. Wayne
  5. Thanks Andrew, It's a really nice kit with lots of potential. I hope they decide to produce some other variants. Wayne
  6. Many thanks for the compliments and information Badder, I checked out the painting, you're right it has a fantastic atmosphere about it, your father must have been very proud to have received it. Wayne.
  7. Many thanks for the positive feed back. It is definitely an improvement over the Italeri which considering its age isn't a bad kit, it's just that the additional cost and work to upgrade it makes the Border kit a much better option. I wouldn't be put off by the tracks either, once you get into them they don't take much longer to put together than any other track. The detail is crisper than the Friuls and if using the sand shields you don't need the complete run of track. Wayne
  8. I have given up hope of an injection moulded kit of the 'Matilda I' being released by any of the mainstream kit manufactures and decided to take the plunge with Accurate Armours resin release from 1995. Although the A11 Matilda 1 was only produced in small numbers ( 140 between 1938-39 ) I feel that it is quite an important vehicle to add to a collection of British armour models, if only to highlight how short sighted British tank design was preceding WW2. Although planning work began in 1935 those who designed the tank were influenced by the mistaken belief that combat in a new war would be the same as in World War I, in which tanks were utilised for breaking through strong, static defensive positions. The General Staff specification required a cheap tank to be built with as many as possible already available commercial components. The result was a small, slow ( 8mph ), but heavily armoured vehicle. Armed with either a Vickers .303 or .50 machine gun and with a crew of two it was essentially a mobile machine gun post. Matilda I saw combat when the 4th RTR deployed to France with the British Expeditionary Force in September 1939 and the 7th RTR in May 1940. Despite some success it soon became clear that the Matilda1 tank was not suited for its intended role. Although it's heavy armour afforded the crew protection against anything other than the heaviest antitank weapons the vulnerability of the tracks and rollers proved to be a major issue. It's lack of armament meant it couldn't engage enemy armour or strongholds and the cramped interior and small turret didn't help the commander, who had to duck down to use the wireless, and direct the driver at the same time. Most of the vehicles in France were destroyed or abandoned and the few remaining units helped to cover the evacuation at Dunkirk before being blown up to prevent capture. The remaining UK stock was soon relegated to home defence and training duties. The kit comes in a relatively small but sturdy box and the parts are packaged into five plastic bags. There are a couple of broken parts in my kit but they should be simple enough to repair. There is also a small photo etch sheet, a length of wire some brass rod and a decal sheet with five options, all from the 4th RTR. I added a set of Friulmodel T-26 tracks to replace the resin offerings supplied by Accurate Armour. As the tracks are so exposed on this tank I felt that the weight of the metal tracks would add to the look of the finished model. The instruction sheet is 12 pages long with a list of parts, general instructions relating to the construction of a resin kit and working with etched brass, a written assembly sequence and photos of a model under construction. there is also a brief description of the history of Matilda 1. At first glance assembly of the kit seems straight forward enough. I have been looking forward to getting this project underway for sometime now, I hope that it doesn't disappoint. Wayne
  9. Thank you all very much for the positive feedback, it's very much appreciated. Thanks John, I'm still working on my Italeri one, its still a great kit but there is a fair amount of work and addons needed to bring it up to the level of the Border kit. The lines are borders that I add in Lightroom when I process the images. It does seem a little expensive in the UK but there is no real need for aftermarket parts. Thanks Nenad. Mine is the original glass bottled MRP and it matches perfectly with my Mike Starmer swatch which was why I was a little surprised when you mentioned that the shade was out in your Sherman builds. I wonder if you just got a bad one. I'm not entirely sure that I have got the colour balance right in the photos above as I'm still having to use my glasses which have a warm tint. I'm trusting that the software got it right. The actual model does match the colour swatch though. Thanks Bob, that's where I got mine from and I think it's good value for that and it arrived within a couple of weeks. Wayne
  10. It's a lovely kit Bob, I would say go for it. Thanks George, there is a reasonably detailed gun breech and some detail on the inside of the hatches so I think it would be fine to have them open if you are going to have figures in there. Thanks Steve, I did think about that option but the detail on their counter weight wasn't great so the plastic barrel with the RB model weight was the better way to go. I have now posted some more photos in RFI HERE
  11. A15 Crusader Mk.III 9th Queen's Lancers, 1st Armoured Division. El Alamein 1942. I have to say I have been very impressed by my first Border Models kit. The detail and fit of parts were excellent. Accuracy wise I can't really comment as I don't have any plans to check it against but to my eyes it looks right. Maybe the weld beads on the turret are a little prominent but that's about it. Most of my references show vehicles with the earlier sand shields that have two continuous ridges instead of the three broken ones as provided in the kit but as I don't have a photo of this particular tank I don't know which ones are correct. There is really no need for after market so I feel that the kit is good value for money. Hopefully there is enough interest in the kit to encourage Border to release a few different versions. The model has been painted with MRP paints and weathered with various paints, pigments and oils. A full work in progress can be found HERE. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the way this one has turned out. There are always a few areas that can be approved upon but as usual I didn't spot them until I had done the photography. At some point in the future I intend to build a base and will add some stowage. Wayne
  12. Many thanks Roger @Hamden, Simon @SimonL, Nenad @Nenad Ilijic ,John @Bullbasket, Vytautas @vytautas and @Milan Mynar. Unfortunately I'm still battling the eye infection, it's getting there but it means I have to wear glasses at the moment and mine really need replacing so I am trying to see through scratched and scuffed lenses. They also have a slight tint which makes getting the colour balance right on the photography side of things difficult. Enough of my self pity and back to the Crusader. I sprayed the model with hairspray followed by a heavily thinned coat of Tamiya acrylics mixed to a dusty colour. The idea of the hairspray was to allow me to remove the dust layer in some areas of wear or places that I was unhappy with. As it happened I removed very little. The rest of the dust effects were added with various VMS pigments mixed to what I felt was an appropriate desert sand colour. Oils were used to add a few stains here and there. A little graphite on the tracks and MG and that is pretty much it. I find the dusty desert appearance the hardest weathering to get right, I'm reasonably happy with this one but I'm sure I could do better. I shall call it a day for this one. I was intending to add some stowage but I have too many other projects that are calling me. I would like to build some bases and create some small dioramas in the future so I may add some embellishments then. As for the kit itself, I have to say I have been very impressed by it. The detail and fit of parts are excellent. Accuracy wise I can't really comment as I don't have any plans to check it against but to my eyes it looks right. Maybe the weld beads on the turret are a little prominent but that's about it. Most of my references show vehicles with the earlier sand shields that have two continuous ridges instead of the three broken ones as provided in the kit but as I don't have a photo of this particular tank I don't know which ones are correct. There is really no need for after market so I feel that the kit is good value for money. Hopefully there is enough interest in the kit to encourage Border to release a few different versions. Once I get my eyes sorted I can post some more photos in RFI. Many thanks for the interest and kind comments on this build. Wayne PS, I will gloss those periscopes.
  13. Looks like an interesting project Roger, not something that I have seen before. Wayne
  14. Handles, photo-etch and tracks, all of my favourite things. Great progress Ed, It's got to be worth the extra effort to be able to show off your excellent interior work. Wayne
  15. https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/featured-product/portrait Mine is the Portrait 2, if you shop around there are usually some good deals but I think Covid may have pushed prices up. With the vinyl I use I have managed to get down to 1.25mm high but with some trial and error with the settings and maybe some different vinyl you could get smaller. Wayne
  16. I feel your pain, I've never had great success in printing decals either. I think it's probably because ink jet printers just aren't great for this sort of work. Laser printers are probably a better option. In the end I gave up and bought a vinyl cutting machine and make my own stencils. If you PM me your address I would be happy to make some stencils for you. I would just need to know the dimensions of the boxes and diameter of the circle. Wayne
  17. Many thanks for the information John @John Tapsell, Jack @JackG and Mike @Mike Starmer. I have tracked down a copy of the book John and look forward to reading it. Wayne
  18. Thank you very much Roger @Hamden John @Bullbasket @vytautas @Carius @Peter Browne I have made a little progress before an eye infection curtailed my bench time. The markings were added using stencils and spraying apart from the WD numbers where I used the decals. I decided not to use the Division or Regiment/Unit signs as none of my reference photos show these applied. I have gone with the vehicle that Border has suggested in its instructions even though I don't have a reference photo for it so I have no idea if it's accurate, I do wish manufactures would supply a photo of the vehicle that they used as a reference. I gave the model a pin wash to pick out the details using dark brown oil paint. Once the wash was dry the paintwork was given some wear, scratches and chipping using various tools, brushes and some sponge work before spraying on the flat coat with Mr.Color GX113. I thin the clear coat with Mr Color Leveling Thinner to give a slight satin finish. Hopefully I will get this eye infection sorted soon and I can start putting on the dust effects and then I wont be far from getting this one finished. Wayne
  19. That's all coming together very nicely Andrew. The cargo looks great and nice save with the paintwork. As Matt said the name Tinkerbell is perfect. Wayne
  20. Nice progress Andy, looking forward to seeing this build develop. Wayne
  21. This looks as though it will be another interesting project to follow along with John. The hexagonal punches have an extra rod for alignment. They work very well but I am still a little cautious when I use them as they aren't cheap. Wayne
  22. First class work Steve, it matches your reference photo perfectly. It almost makes me want to build a Tiger... almost. Wayne
  23. That looks like a fun little project Simon. SCC.15 wasn't introduced until early 1944 so they would more likely be Khaki Green No.3 or SCC.2 brown which started to be used in mid 1942. There is a photo of a line up Mk.IIIs in a European scheme with the external fuel tanks fitted. Wayne
  24. I managed to find some time to get started on the painting. Beginning with a primer coat of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500. As the MRP base colour doesn't have high opacity the primer was followed by an undercoat of thinned white. To preserve some of the shadowed areas this was applied more on the upper surfaces. The wheels were then painted with a lightened Tamiya tyre black. I masked off the tyres and sprayed the inner faces of the wheels in Khaki Green No.3 on the assumption that they wouldn't have overpainted these areas with the desert camo. The base coat of MRP BSC No.61 Light Stone was applied and using some dark brown I started the post shading process. The post shading continued using thinned coat of Light Stone and a lightened Light Stone for the highlights. The effect is subtle and difficult to show on phone photos. The undercut on the turret, the hull front underside panel and bottom of the barrel were painted with an off white and the camouflage pattern was masked with silly putty. I then sprayed some decanted hairspray over the model before painting the camouflage colour to help with the chipping and paint wear effects. I chose to use SCC No.1A Very Dark Brown as the disruptive colour, I felt this was most likely given the terrain, green was probably used more as the fighting moved into Tunisia. I used the same technique as above for the post shading. The next job will be to tidy up the paint work and add a little wear and tear before I add some markings. Wayne
  25. I am currently working on a Crusader Mk.III form the El Alamein period and looking at reference photos I have noticed that none of the vehicles are displaying the Division or Regiment/Unit signs. Would these have been removed during battle periods as the photos don't appear to be censored? I'm sure I have seen photos of Grants and Shermans with the signs so I don't know if it was just something that applied to the cruiser tanks. It would make tactical sense to have not displayed them. Wayne
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