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diablo rsv

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Everything posted by diablo rsv

  1. Thanks Bertie, I have it on hold for a week or two whilst I work on the Centurion but I must admit I'm itching to get on with it. If only I could find more time, life keeps getting in the way. Wayne
  2. Lovely work John, You would never know this was a scratch built conversion. Wayne
  3. Thanks Bertie, If I had let it go it would have just bugged me every time I looked at it, you know how it is, once seen and all that. I've been doing this long enough now to know that cutting corners never pays off. Thanks Ed, I could kick myself really, If I had made the stencils in the first place I wouldn't have needed to put that much extra effort in. Thanks John, It's one of those things where you think "is the expense worth it"? but I guess the average model with detail sets and paints etc must be well over the £100 mark plus the hours spent working on it, so I just hate having iffy decals spoiling the thing. They seem to be selling at around £225, I'm sure I paid less than that for it but every thing seems to have had a price hike at the moment. Wayne
  4. @APA, @PlaStix, @Jasper dog, @Bertie Psmith, @LeeM, @Lazy Modeller Thank you all for taking the time to comment, your input is very much appreciated. I thought I would take the opportunity to try out a couple of different weathering products on the lower hull as most of it will be hidden behind the bazooka plates. The first of these was the acrylic paste for adding heavy texture, I used this on the underside of the track guards but I didn't really get along with it though as it dries fairly quickly and it needed painting over once it had dried, so I went back to my usual pigments, fillers and fixers. I have a photo of one of the Operation Sentry tanks sitting in a field where it had churned up the soil and these vehicles had also covered a lot of miles during the trials therefore I am assuming they got pretty dirty, so I'm trying to recreate the look of a dirty tank with a build up of drying mud. I will probably add some oil and grease stains but I don't think I'm far off from the look I wanted. Unfortunately I spoke too soon regarding the decals. They did appear to settle down nicely. And this is why I hate decals, once I applied the flat coat over the model the carrier film became very apparent. I'm not entirely sure why this happened, I know I could have trimmed the film around the sentry boxes but AFV had used white backing paper which made it difficult to see where to cut and it would have been impossible to trim around the serial numbers. So I felt I had no choice but to remove them and cut some stencils. which I should have done in the first place, that will teach me to be lazy. The paint work was repaired and I set about designing and making the stencils. Finding the correct font was difficult but the one I chose was close enough. I took a photo of the Sentry box emblem that is in one of Dick Taylor's Warpaint books and uploaded it into the design software where it could be converted to a stencil. The Portrait cutter is an impressive piece of kit and it's amazing how small you can cut once the correct settings can be found. The Sentry box scales out at around 8mm. It was a slightly time consuming process applying the paint as there are five colours to spray. I really wished I had trimmed those kit decals at this point. The end result was worth the effort though. No more carrier film. After that little hiccup I can hopefully get back on track, literally, with getting the running gear put on. Wayne
  5. Great start, I shall watch your progress with interest. I also built the 'battle bus' and toyed with the idea of doing the pigeon loft conversion but when Miniart released the pigeon set I thought the.loft was bound to follow. Wayne.
  6. Top notch detailing as always John. If you're still looking for ariel bases I just got some of these from accurate armour. https://accurate-armour.com/aa-products/135th-accessories/a187 They look like they are 3d printed. I have just used one on my Cent and I will post a photo later. Annoying about the Village photos situation, I use Imgur and so far so good. Just hope you don't jinx them. Wayne
  7. Excellent detailing work, looking forwards to seeing this progress. Wayne
  8. The paint work looks good Darryl, the chipping on the suspension units has worked well. Wayne
  9. Up to your usual high standards again Ed, looks really good. Wayne
  10. Thanks Guys, looks like I've been neglecting this thread a bit. I have a Silhouette Portrait cutter John, it's become one of my favourite tools now, I try to use it as much as I can to create masks so I don't have to use decals and it's very handy for the wheel masks as well. I have managed to get some paint on at last. Using my preferred brand, which is MRP, I put down a base coat of SCC.15 Olive Drab and in an attempt to add some variation I mixed in some very dark brown for the shaded areas and some buff for the highlights. I like to keep the effect pretty subtle as I find that the monotone schemes are generally broken up by the weathering stages. The phone photos actually exaggerate the effect a little. As you can see I have also added the markings. I used the kit decals despite what I said above, in this case the ones AFV provided were quite nice with fairly thin carrier film and good register. I used some Micro Set/Sol on them and they settled down very nicely. Once dry I gave them a slight misting with some SSC.15 to tone them down a little. MRP paints dry to a lovely smooth satin finish which is ideal for the pin washes which is what I will be doing next. Wayne
  11. I've managed to find the time to tackle the tracks and I thought it would be easier to fit them before joining the upper and lower hull together. The Charioteer ran on a wider 15.5” track and Accurate Armour provides these as resin sections. I've used resin tracks a couple of times now and I actually quite like them. They need a bit of care removing them from the casting block as they are quite delicate and I found with these ones a couple of passes with a knife blade did the trick. Once removed there is a bit of cleaning up to do but it is mostly flash and doesn't take too long. The sections are then superglued together to make up one complete run. There was quite a curve in the run but I would rather have a tight join between the sections as they can be straightened out afterwards by applying heat from a hairdryer and pushing them, up against a straight edge. I then heated up the rear section of track and placed the track over the wheels. Whilst still soft the rear section can be formed around the drive sprocket and allowed to cool. The front section was then heated and formed around the idler wheel. The join was made at the bottom of the track and once dry more heat can be applied where needed and the track moulded to the required shape. It's actually easier to do than it is for me to explain. They still need a little tweaking but that's easy enough to do by re-heating as necessary. The new turret ring was also a little warped in my kit but using the same heating process as the tracks it was soon sorted it out. Once I was happy enough with the tracks I could join the hull together and now I carry on with detail parts. Fair play to Derek at Accurate Armour as well, a couple of days after emailing him regarding my missing drivers door and other parts they arrived in the post. That's it for now. I really should get back to the Centurion. Wayne
  12. Thanks Darryl They do do some interesting stuff but from what I can gather the quality can vary. My only experiences are the Matilda Mk.1 and this conversion plus a few bits and bobs. Thanks John, I've started on the easy stuff really, the pace will soon slow down. Thanks for the link, I have been using some images of that tank but it's handy having them all in one place. Probably this time next year knowing me, I'm trying to not get tempted away by other projects. Thanks Dave. I did find some of those scrap yard photos, mostly they focus on one tank though. I did read somewhere that they used whatever hulls were available but most of what I've seen appear to be F hulls. I wonder if they upgraded the hulls during the conversion work. Wayne
  13. Fascinating stuff. I enjoy your scratch builds so I shall watch this one with interest. There is always something to learn from you guys. I wish I had the patience/ time to attempt one. Wayne
  14. Very nice work Stix, I really need to up my weathering game, I play it safe too often, good idea trying out different methods on unseen areas. Wayne.
  15. As Ed said, that is an excellent finish, a good example of how washes and filters should be used, they make a big difference when done properly. Wayne
  16. Lovely work! That looks like a great little kit, it's a shame that the British didn't use them, as far as I know. l wouldn't mind having a go at making one of them but I'm trying to build a collection of British used vehicles. Wayne.
  17. Thanks for the interest in this thread guys and welcome along. I'm hoping this will be a relatively quick build. Apart from the turret the main part of this conversion is to alter the hull, turning it into an F type hull rather than the Tamiya C . For this Accurate Armour have provided a new engine deck and the swing out style drivers hatch as well as a new front plate. Unfortunately the engine deck AA has provided wasn't great and the panel line for the access door is in the wrong pace anyway so I decided to stick with the Tamiya one and alter that as John has done here on his Cromwell build HERE . Below are the engine decks from Accurate Armour, Tamiya and then Airfix on the right. The drivers hatch replacement requires a little surgery but it's a fairly straight forward job of cutting along the panel lines where the existing drivers roof is. A bit of filing on the edges and the new roof can be glued in with some super glue. Unfortunately the actual door is missing from my kit, it could probably be scratch built quite easily but I emailed AA and he has promised to send me one ASAP. There is a new front plate to replace the Tamiya one and this dropped in with a little fettling. The splash rails on the glacis plate need to be altered slightly by cutting away the central section and cutting the ends back by a few millimetres. The top and bottom row of rivets also need to be removed as these plates are now welded. I shall add the weld beads latter. Under all of the debris you can see the cut back splash rails and weld beads on this sadly decaying tank. There is a track guard support on the left hand side that needed removing, the grooves in the track guard then had to be extended where the support had been which wasn't the easiest job. On the Charioteer the exhausts exit through the rear hull plate and end in a fishtail so there is a replacement rear hull plate to be added. On all of the images I have seen of Charioteers the tow bar is of the sprung type, however AA don't provide one. After a little head scratching I remembered I have a Bronco Comet in the display cupboard which does have the tow bar that I needed so I borrowed the Comet one and used it as a master to cast a new one in resin. It's not perfect but good enough. The rear hull plate is bowing in slightly so I will need to add a support behind it. I still need to replace all of the handles, add some welds and all of the little photo etch details but the hull isn't far off. Hopefully I will have another update soon. Wayne
  18. It was this one (not my image by the way) but it's a long time since I used it so I don't know if they still do it.
  19. Thanks for the link, I've not seen that one before. There's some handy reference shots there. Wayne
  20. Coming along nicely Si, I like the look of those grab handles now you have some primer on them, I need to invest in some of those. I used to use Halford's primer as it is convenient but I also started to get inconsistent results, I even tried decanting it so I could put it on with an airbrush to get more control. Nowadays I think it's hard to beat Mr.Surfacer but that's if you're happy using lacquers. Looking forward to seeing some paint on it. Wayne
  21. I went down the route of altering the Tamiya deck for my Charioteer conversion as the Accurate Armour 'F' engine deck that they provided wasn't great, it was warped and still has the panel line in the wrong place. The Aber set that John mentioned is quite handy. Wayne.
  22. Looks like your making good progress Darryl, Despite the extra work those manlet covers look great. Wayne.
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