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diablo rsv

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Posts posted by diablo rsv

  1. On 28/11/2022 at 20:54, Mark Oddy said:

    Fantastic build with some amazing skills with the scratch building. If I live to 100 I don’t think I would ever be that skilled!

     

    Thanks Mark, that's very kind of you. 

     

    On 29/11/2022 at 15:50, Maginot said:

    Very nice WW1 camouflage scheme you are pursuing.

     

    I'm hoping to make a start on it soon, fingers crossed I haven't bitten off more than I can chew.

     

    6 hours ago, mahavelona said:

    Those Copper state wheels look amazing. 

    Where did you order them from I was not aware these were available?

     

    They are lovely, I ordered them direct from Copper State, although they're not cheap I feel they will make a big difference to the finished model.

     

    Wayne

  2. Whilst I was pondering on how to tackle the paintwork I thought I would have a look at the wheels.

    I had originally planed to use the wheels supplied by Meng on the 1920 car but I was a little concerned by their use of rubber for the tyre. The detail itself isn't too bad but they are flexible and I'm not sure how well they would take paint plus they also seem to attract dust. The other problem is that there is no way to give the impression of the weight of the car by flattening or bulging the bottom of the tyre.

    YkbAXgql.jpg

    I wanted to get a set of the DEF Model wheels but unfortunately nobody in the UK seems to have stock of them so I ordered the FC Model Trend wheels. I have to say I am really unimpressed with the quality of this set and would say it was a complete waste of £20.  Not the first time I have been disappointed with their products.  The detail on the front face is fine but large sections of the tread pattern is completely missing and the surface has quite a rough texture to it. The inside of the hubs have no detail at all.

     

     ns2YxV8h.jpg

    I felt my only option was to order the DEF wheels from Europe, I'm so glad I did as these wheels are superb. Although they are the same price as the FC Model Trend wheels there really is no comparison..

     

    huxaww2h.jpg

    For the 1914 car Meng provide two halves of a plastic tyre and a photoetched set of spokes which is sandwiched between them. @Bertie McBoatface made an excellent tutorial on how to assemble them in his build log HERE .

     

    c0OUyKvl.jpg

    They do look great but looking at photos of the actual car I felt that the tyres look a little too chunky and the spokes could be finer.

     

    SvpuUhil.jpg

     

    It just so happened that I had the Copper State Lanchester sitting on my bench and the wheels look very similar to the Rolls Royce ones and size wise they are exactly the same.

     

     vzLd9Zll.jpg

    Definitely an improvement but I had ordered a set of Copper State Models replacement wheels for the Lanchester and these are fantastic. Not cheap but when you see them you can see why.

     

    HhTxADal.jpg

    They are soo delicate, I just hope I can adapt them to fit.

    Here they are all together for comparison.

     

     d4dlhXch.jpg

     

    Hopefully next update will show some paint on the cars.

     

    Wayne

     

     

    • Like 13
  3. On 23/11/2022 at 07:28, edjbartos said:

    More good work Wayne, I'm enjoying the progress of both builds, they are both looking fabulous...

     

    Ed

     

    On 22/11/2022 at 23:54, Kingsman said:

    Those are the only images I've seen of the car with the barbed wire or barricade hook, as it is believed to be.  So I'd have to say unique.  Bearing in mind that armoured cars were limited to roads and tracks with a firm surface, I would say barricade hook rather than barbed wire.  An armoured car on skinny tyres wouldn't have the grunt or grip to pull any length of wire.

     

    As for Solomon colours, like all WW1 colours it's all a bit sketchy.  But on the MkI tank shown there was probably no "base grey".  Although it has been believed that MkIs were grey, it now appears that they were actually finished in Fosters' commercial Brunswick Green as that was available and the contract did not specify a colour.  The R-Rs however would have been grey.  So I think we're seeing grey, green and brown there with black edging.  The brown would be Service Brown, frequently discussed here.  A slightly greener shade of the WW2 SCC2 is probably about right.  The mix for green in the Handbook For Artificers would be a Brunswick green.

     

    Caunter scheme could be either Portland Stone or Light Stone depending on what was available and the vehicle's existing base colour.  As the R-Rs were already there, Portland Stone is perhaps likely.  But monochrome imagery won't differentiate.  Plus Slate and Silver Grey.  Definitely no blue.........

     

    On 23/11/2022 at 07:32, Geo1966 said:

    Great work Wayne. As others have said, its really good to see the two versions being built together to highlight the differences.

     

    George

     

    On 23/11/2022 at 07:44, Jasper dog said:

    Brilliant modelling Wayne, superb attention to detail.

    Absolutely masterclass,  both in modelling and history. :like:

     

    Atb

    Darryl 

     

    On 23/11/2022 at 18:56, Courageous said:

    Great stuff Wayne (& Peter), will be using this thread for when I get round to doing my 1/72 versions.

     

    Stuart

     

    Once again, thank you all for your help and encouragement. It's very much appreciated.

     

    Wayne.

  4. I have started to add some of the details to the front of the cars although the lights and radiator covers will be left off until after the painting, as will the fenders for the 1914 car. 

    There is an armoured plate that covers the front axle. I felt that Meng's were too thick so replaced them with some thinner card.

     

    ceV2fDUl.jpg

     

    One of the more noticeable differences between the 1914 & 1920 cars is the position of the vision slots on the drivers visor. The slots on the 1914 car are at the same level where as the right hand slot on the 1920 car has been raised up.

    Again I felt that the plastic used for these was too thick and as Meng only provide the later style of visor I cut two new ones from card.

    On this particular 1914 car it looks like the crew have added some thicker plate, or possibly timber, for added protection.

     

    ic5IyhPl.jpg

     

    xburXGZl.jpg

    Looking at the above photo I see that I have forgotten to add the hinges to the top of the visor.

     

    Now onto the turrets.

    The 1920 cars turret was built without any modifications apart from replacing some of the rivets. The rivets on the front and back of the curved surfaces are somewhat elongated,  I guess this due to the way the parts have to be removed from the moulds, so I punched out some .5mm discs and replaced the worst effected ones.

     

    Another of the main differences between the 1914 & 20 cars is the height of the turrets. The 1914 turret is noticeably lower than that of the 1920 cars.

    The photo below shows the different styles side by side.

     

     Xm5dpvBl.jpg

     

    Sadly Meng only provides the later taller turret. I thought I had found the answer to the problem with an after market turret from Friendship models. This resin turret also comes with the earlier drivers visor.

    I can't comment on the quality of the product though as, after a month of waiting, it never arrived.

    So my only option was to modify the kit turret. This, unfortunately, isn't just a case of taking a couple of mm off of the bottom of the turret. The overall height isn't that much less however the angle of the slope is greater.

    I couldn't find any reliable plans so the best I could do was to get approximate dimensions from photos. I had the diameter of the kit turret so I enlarged or reduced the photos to match that. I could then work out the rest of the dimensions using a digital Vernier caliper. Probably not the best way to do it but I think it's close enough.

     

       tLZKsmVl.jpg

     

    The aperture for the Vickers MG appears to be squarer on the earlier turret but that may be unique to these particular cars.

    Another modification my subject car had was the addition of a box on the roof section. 

    Presumably headroom was a problem with the lower turret and I guess that is why the height was raised on the later ones. I can't tell from the photos I have whether this box was hinged, had a hatch in it or was just fixed. I suspect the later.

    One other addition on these cars was the fitting of a hook assembly to the front of the chassis. I believe this was to enable the removal of barbed wire. The image below is the clearest I can find of it but I was wondering if this was fitted to any other vehicles

    or was it a local addition. Maybe Peter @Kingsman could shed some light on it and the raised turret roof. 

     

    692EMYUl.jpg

     

    I decided I could fit the fenders and running boards to the 1920 car before painting.

    They did have quite a nasty ejection pin mark inside them that could possibly be seen on the finished model, so these were removed with a bur and whilst I was at it I thinned down the edges as well.

     

    VUwhbbol.jpg

     

     

    BC72zHqh.jpg

     

    I was getting to the point where I needed to think about getting some paint on them. Firstly I gave the modified turret a coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 to get rid of any sanding, glue and file marks and then both cars were primed with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500

     

     R4IGeFKh.jpg

     

    EMFeiIfh.jpg

     

    The colours for the Caunter Scheme of the 1920 car are fairly well documented. I just need to check if the base colour would be Light Stone or Portland Stone and see if I can get the correct pattern from @Mike Starmer There are patterns in his book for cars but not specifically the Rolls Royce.

    The 1914 car is a different matter. I doubt there is a documented account of the colours used on these  .

     

    zyBSH6il.jpg

     

      M2HCuk2l.jpg

     

    1WGo2zhl.jpg

     

    These cars were photographed in Arras in April 1917 and these seem to be the only two photographed in this scheme. There could be more of course but by this time trench warfare meant that there was limited uses for armoured cars on the Western Front so they were a rarity.

    The pattern on these cars isn't dissimilar to the Solomon Scheme that was seen on Mk.I Tanks in August/ September 1916. The toned down version of this was most likely Ochre, Brown and Green over the base Grey  and often each colour was separated by a thin black line.

     

    Hpuah0Yl.jpg

    I really must finish that kit.

     

    However there only seems to be three colours used on these cars and the scheme was phased out by December in favour of a 'mud brown colour'. 

    These cars have also been given a coating of a mineral substance known as Uralite which was believed to absorb the impact of bullets. Not something I had heard of before and I'm not sure how this would affect colours or lustre. Looks like I will need to do some more research or ask Peter @Kingsman again. 😁

     

    Wayne

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 15
  5. Great to see another RR being built.  I'm really enjoying my build, it's a nice kit as it is but there is plenty of scope for improvements.

    You are going for the same scheme as one of mine so it will be interesting to see how you go about painting it. I'm still trying to think of the best way and which colours to use.

    Your wheel looks good, I haven't attempted mine yet but you made the process look pretty straight forward.

     

    Wayne  

    • Thanks 1
  6.  

     

     

    On 15/11/2022 at 18:59, planecrazee said:

    Absolutely fantastic work there Wayne - that scratch building is second to none!!!  With your skills you could just build a subject yourself from scratch and not bother with a kit :rofl:

     

    Thank you very much, that's very kind of you, but to be honest I think I'm still in beginners class compared to some of the scratch building skills displayed on these pages. For one example check out the build by @Model Mate HERE.

    I do quite enjoy that side of it but I don't think I would have the patience scratch a complete model.

     

     

    On 16/11/2022 at 20:17, Ned said:

    How are your boxes so square and perfect and not smudged with glue?

     

    I just use these tools and various sanding sticks, plus you don't get to see the ones that don't make it. :D

     

    yHvuujll.jpg

     

    On 15/11/2022 at 09:08, edjbartos said:

    Beautiful work Wayne, really nice. I'm enjoying seeing this being built up with all the additions and changes that you are making, keep going...

     

    Ed

     

    On 15/11/2022 at 11:32, Muchmirth said:

    This keeps getting better. Lovely build and additions.

     

    On 16/11/2022 at 19:49, mahavelona said:

    The additions you are making here are fantastic.

     

    Thanks Guys, that's really appreciated.

     

    Wayne

     

    • Like 3
    • Haha 2
  7. 14 hours ago, John Masters said:

     I have saved some of your photos for future reference when I get to build mine in 2023.  I hope that's alright.

    No problem with that John, quite flattered really.

     

    I managed to find a couple of clearer photos of the 1914 car that I am trying to replicate. The first thing I noticed is that I have gone with the wrong style of storage box under the rear fender, in fact there doesn't appear to be one at all on the left hand side,

    however I decided that maybe there was one at some point. So I removed the boxes that I built earlier and scratched two new ones.

     

    P8oevAGl.jpg

     

    The door flap is made from some pewter sheet.

    As with the lower boxes the upper ones appear to come in a variety of styles and sizes. The ones that Meng provide are quite poorly moulded and need a lot of sanding to make them usable.

     

    kKikr39l.jpg

     

    On this particular 1914 car the boxes seem to be longer than the Meng ones ( which are really only suitable for the 1920 vehicles) but are they similar in section. So once again I made some new ones out of plastic card.

     

    zsxIWf5l.jpg

     

    I left this one partially open and will have a tarp or something poking out. 

    I also decided to replace the front of the mudguard as Meng's depicts the construction as three quite thick planks but looking at the photos of the actual car it looks as though it is one sheet of ply.

     

      AsVjirml.jpg 

     

    For the 1920 car I used the Meng boxes as a base. After sanding them to remove the moulding issues a plastic strip was glued along the top edge to represent the lip around the lid. It appears that the hinges are inside the lid and fixed through the lid into some wooden blocks, so some plastic strip was glued to represent those.

     

    TTWfBEfl.jpg 27Oy1kwl.jpg

     

    I have some work to do at the front and then I can move onto the turrets.

     

    Wayne

    • Like 25
  8. Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your comments. 

     

    13 hours ago, Ol' Scrapiron said:

    That is an interesting way to open the exhaust, but I think I may have an alternate (but similar) approach that would maintain most of the original shape.

     

    Use a thin saw to slice into the end of the exhaust such that the blade thickness forms the gap (or at least gives a start that can be expanded if needed)

    20221110_235015.jpg

    Then you should only need either a small amount of putty for the the small areas on the side or insert some small pieces of styrene.

     

    I haven't done this, but it seems like it would be less destructive to the original piece and keep more of the original shape.

    Worth a try i the future?

     

     

     

    Thanks Scrapiron,

    that would be an easier method, I toyed with a couple of methods, including drilling out and a similar method to yours, however the Meng moulding isn't great.

     

    9gniHdpl.jpg

     

    Not sure if it shows clearly in the photo but the left of the exhaust tapers down to about 1.5mm so it really needed reshaping anyway.

    After looking at my reference photo the Meng exhaust looks a little long, on the 1914 car, so it maybe a wasted effort as it won't really be seen if I cut it back.

     

    Wayne

    • Like 7
  9. The next phase of the build involves fitting the cabin floor and rear deck to the chassis, this is where I found the first snag. The fly wheel seems to prevent the cabin floor from sitting down properly onto the chassis rails.

    At first I thought I may of made a mistake as I hadn't seen anyone else have this issue.

     

    BBig0Hsl.jpg

     

    I couldn't see any option apart from shaving off the top of the fly wheel.

     

    2F99l0El.jpg

     

    Once this was done the floors fitted nicely. I added some wood grain texture to the rear deck with course sand paper and the edge of a fine razor saw. 

     

     7thXqBbl.jpg

     

    I built up the second chassis and fitted the car bodies onto them.  The car bodies are a one piece moulding which speeds up the process

    The panels that make up the mud guards were textured and added. 

     

    pQjniqtl.jpg

     

    Up to this point both models had been identical but I had reached the point where I had to make decisions about which subject I was going to model.

    Looking at reference photos it seems that almost every vehicle had subtle differences. I guess there were different body builders plus field modifications.

    It's hard to find enough photos of any particular vehicle to get the details exact so I decided to make them representative models of the type.

    I also want the cars to look as different to each other as I can and to show the evolution of the type.

    One of the first differences is the armoured plating around the fuel tank. On some of the earlier vehicles this has an angled back rather than the squared off one of the later ones.

     

     4bZyE3jl.jpg

     

    Some of these angled ones seem to be a little shallower and what appears to be a drain plug can be seen on the bottom of the fuel tank.

    This isn't included on the kit tank so I scratched one from some sprue and punched out plastic discs.

     

    A97ceI8l.jpg

     

    There also seems to be quite a variety of storage boxes, or sometimes none at all, fitted to the underside of the rear mud guards.

    Using one of the reference photos for ideas I made the boxes up from some plastic card and then added some wooden texture.

     

    V88fQepl.jpg

     

    The only other modification I made was to the support brackets. Meng's are depicted as a solid wooden piece whereas most of the early ones seem to be a metal strut, these were easy enough to make from some plastic strip.

     

    5r7Sykdl.jpg

     

    And here they are side by side for comparison. The 1914 car is on the left.

     

    snln0Gyl.jpg

     

    There's a bit of tidying up to do on what I have done so far and then I shall carry on with the upper stowage boxes and work on the front end.

     

    Wayne

     

     

     

      

    • Like 24
  10. On 04/11/2022 at 02:38, Ted said:

    That's a clever way to open the exhaust, thanks for showing the step by step in detail.

     

    On 04/11/2022 at 06:10, stevehnz said:

    Wot Ted said. I'm keen to see how you go with this, one of these occupies a small corner of my kit accumulation. :)

    Steve.

     

    On 04/11/2022 at 07:53, edjbartos said:

    I really like what you have done there Wayne, the exhaust looks great. The chassis looks great too , I wish my Miniart one would be a bit simpler...

     

    Ed

     

     

    On 04/11/2022 at 08:24, Geo1966 said:

    Fully agree and would like to do this with mine, but i am scared of getting floaters. Lets face it nobody likes a floater......

     

    Great work btw Wayne.

     

    George

     

    Thanks guys, I borrowed the idea but I couldn't really see any other way of doing it.

    As regards to floaters George, you're right but it wouldn't be too difficult to remove an readjust. 🤞 

     

    Wayne

    • Like 1
  11. The Meng RR Armoured car has often been featured on modelling forums including this one, most notably the excellent build by @Andy Moore, so it will be difficult not to repeat what has done before especially as the build process itself is quite straight forward.

    Therefore I have decided to skip the vehicle history and sprue shots and put more emphasis on my painting and weathering processes. 

    The part count of the kit is quite low especially compared to Miniart and Gecko, and to be honest that's quite a relief. A demonstration of that is the construction of the chassis, which is where assembly begins. 

     

    7ucrT5hh.jpg

     

    Although it maybe a little simplified it really is all you need, The centre section being one piece means that there shouldn't be any issues with alignment. Judging by their B Type bus that I built last year Miniart would of made this chassis out of at least 50 separate parts. 

    The front axle is moulded as one piece with the wheels straight ahead but I thought the model would look better with the wheels steering to one side a little.

    This was simple enough. I just cut the hubs and arm off and glued them back on at a slight angle.

     

    6rRnHtbl.jpg

     

    I replaced the tie rod as I cut the original one a tad short.

     

    vPeNh5zl.jpg

     

    The end of the exhaust needs a little work to improve it's appearance...

     

    9gniHdpl.jpg

     

    so using the same method that Andy did on his build, I set about improving it. First I cut out a semi circular section using a bur in a rotary tool,

     

     z87qcT7l.jpg

     

    I then cut two semi circular pieces of plastic card and glued them in place leaving a smell gap between them. I then filled the join with some Tamiya filler.

     

     idGcpEEl.jpg

     

    This was then sanded to regain the shape and thin the edges of the plastic.

     

    lPbz8zul.jpg

     

    I then stippled some diluted putty over the entire exhaust to give it some texture. The end result maybe a little over scale but I feel it's a worthwhile modification.

    I am finding it difficult to find photos of the exhaust outlet on the Pattern 1914 cars and I'm wondering if the fishtail was used then or was a latter addition for the Pattern 1920 cars.

     

    quLzPeel.jpg

     

    Once the exhaust and rear axle are added the chassis is complete. 

     

    EfqVuK9h.jpg

     

    Now I shall do it all over again for the second kit before moving on to the body work. 

     

    Wayne

     

     

     

    • Like 21
  12. On 30/10/2022 at 13:28, edjbartos said:

    Out of the two I really like the option on the right, but I would not know how to do the camouflage.

    Me too Ed,

    I get attracted to the more interesting paint schemes, they can be a challenge but are more rewarding when done. Also two of my latest and three of my current builds are olive green. :yawn:

     

    Wayne

    • Like 1
  13. 12 hours ago, Peter Browne said:

    Currently building the RFM 1/35 Firefly VC.  On page 7, it says to make cuts to parts E33 and E34 if using Y35 (see page 15).  I'm building a 2nd Irish Regt. Guards vehicle crossing the Waal in Market Garden, so no sand shields.  So I assume I make the cuts...

     

    spacer.png

     

    spacer.png

     

    6 hours ago, Kingsman said:

    Yes that's exactly it. That's what I would regard as the norm for no sand shields on any M4 variant. A straight diagonal from the hull corner to the top of the idler mount.

     

    Noting that this tank has been fitted for wading at some point. The vertical plates inboard of the tow spring brackets are mountings for the trunk. I have a diagram somewhere showing the various rear end wading bits that I did for a thread over on Missing Lynx. I will look it out.

     

    I was having the same dilemma on my build ( link  HERE ) and found a couple of period photos that may help.

    fKY27jTh.jpg

     

    On the above photo the plate seems to be as RFM suggest...

     

    fw6as8xh.jpg

     

    and on this one of a VC on the back of a Dragon Wagon, although I cant tell if the left one has been cut or is just bent.

     

    Wayne

    • Thanks 1
  14. I was originally going to build the Miniart Austin for the groupbuild but Ed beat me to it and although I was going to build a different version I felt most of it would be repeating what he was doing, and he is an excellent model maker so I doubt I would be able to add anything of note.

    So I have decided to go with the Meng Rolls Royce.

     

    J5HHNuql.jpg

     

    I couldn't decide on which version I wanted to build out of these two options.

     

    WShzSOKl.jpg  TyBWqd6l.jpg

     

    So I thought why not do them both. I know that the kit doesn't exactly provide the correct parts for the 1914 version but I have ordered the early turret from Friendship Models and hopefully I can make any other corrections.

     

    Wayne

     

    • Like 23
  15. 3 minutes ago, Enzo the Magnificent said:

     

    :thanks: very much for posting those photos.

    If you need any detail shots let me know, he keeps one of them up the road from me.

    We did take one to the MAFVA nationals show earlier in the year and a fellow was taking loads of detail shots apparently for a new kit, I didn't catch where he was from but maybe at last we will see an injection moulded kit, probably around the time you complete this build.

    Wayne

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
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