Julien

Nice, not a kit you see built up to often. Great job Julien

Very nice, nice and subtle on the weathering. Top job Julien

Now that is very nice. Can I ask what paint you used? Julien

I put them on a matt surface, tried gloss once and its a no go. As I never had an AB you could not brush matt on top of them so I just used to leave them once done. As long as you dont handle this are too much they look great. Also build them up in many thin layers rather than one big one, I find it looks more realistic. Did this hurri a couple of years ago now and was my first real use of this technique, came out pretty good on the exhaust and guns. Julien

I have had brilliant results brush painting but only on small areas. Latley quality control has suffered badly. The last tins of steel I got were unusable and this was my favorite colour. I do find it can be fragile to handling once painted on buffed up. I tried emailing about the QC problems but no answer Julien

Wow, nice build straight from the box. Julien

Dont know if anyone else is interested in Allied aircraft in Soviet colours, this new sheet is out in 72 and 48 by Empire city Decals Details at: http://modelingmadness.com/scotts/decals/e...ity/ecd7210.htm I have already ordered mine. If anyone is interested in this theme then check out this link; http://lend-lease.airforce.ru/english/arti.../spit/index.htm Julien

Incidently for acrylic primer I would recomend Valejho model air as this stuff dries rock hard after a while. I do wish they would do a light colour as the dark grey is very dark and only good for dark colours. Also the life colour stuff is good, but not as good as the valejho. Julien

I have had very good results using some of my old drawing tools. If you lay the tape out on a cutting matt and use a set of dividers with a very fine point, go round a few times with increasing pressure and it gives a very good result. Also I have a set of dividers into which I can fit a number 11 blade, though these might be harder to find. Also you can get a circle template like this; I use one and it allows me to cut holes in tape, you can either use a knife or the point of a divider as long as its thin and sharp. Takes a bit of practise but you get good results. Julien

Depends on what paint you are using and how dense the pigment it. With black it should be fairly dense. I must admit I never paint topcoat direct on to plastic. I always undercoat with an apporopriate colour. Generally white for lighter colours (a must if red/yellow) is going on and dark grey for most others. Some paints I find do ned a primer or undercoat. Some xtraxcolor will lift off if given 2 coats and not undercoated. With acrylics I like to undercoat to give the top coat something to bite into. Julien

Not been for years, I should really go back as this was the first airshow I ever went to. 1982 when I was 13 for my birthday! I went about 8 years ago when I was driving and went straight through. I went in the truck I was driving at the time (7.5 tonne) and the RAF police waved me to the front of the queue thinking I was trying to make a delivery! laugh was on them when I explained I was there for the show, they had to let me in first as I was now blocking the road Never had that luck again! Julien

I like the F-14, thats sure to freak the tomcat mafia out! Julien

Yes, hannants list it as voodoo grey but it is a boeing colour. Julien

Ouch at that price its a no no for me. Julien

Are you sure its not GPM for the lightning not MPG! Julien

John, thanks, I guess Airfix goofed when they pictued the one on the box top with walkways? as they are not on the colour plan inside or decal placement instructions. Tony, will be the new Airfix kit when I get around to it. I like to get all my ref upto speed before starting. Julien

I dont think my original question was put right. There are wing walk decals for other canberas but these ore not shown on the placement sheet for the PR.9. Would this have had the walk areas marked out or not? I can see where they would go, its just the PR9 diagram does not show them, did they leave them off?? Julien

I am looking at using the decals from modeldecal 89 for the No.1 PRU RAF Wyton 1985 XH165 Now for the other canberras on the sheet it shows wing placement decals, however for the PR9 view they are not there? should they be used? Thanks Julien

Only problem with that is if its a faulty can. If it is and still propellant in there it will come out as a liquid, ie propane etc and that definatly would not be done. Thats why you should never use any aerosol upside down. Very important to any one who uses canned air for AB or for cleaning a camera. Julien

Wow, hard to believe thats 1.72. Well done. Julien

Good job there. Its nice to see someone doing OOB and not chucking in £££ of resin & PE. Just shows its the modeller not the kit. Julien

If there is no puff then I suspect the propellant has gone. If nothing is comming out then I would not recommend still trying to puncture or drain the can as there might be a problem with the valve etc, and you would get a full or part full can trying to discharge. A large part of my work is dangerous goods and aerosols can be a minefield. To be honest I would just spring for a new one, I know it goes slightly against the grain, but safe is better. Julien

I find the valejo AB cleaner removes the paint while still wet no problems. After that if dried on the only thing I use is a touch of liquid reamer. If on parts I generally put it on a cloth and wipe, only the nozzel gets a spray through occasionally and I dont soak any parts. I always make sure I clean through while the paint is still wet. I think you use a bit more of the cleaner but I would rather use a bit more at £3.99 a bottle than having to soak AB parts in solvents. For brush painting I just clean the brushes in water. I have a bowl handy which they get a quick swill in, and then later I wash all the brushes again before they are put away. Julien

From where, model or airbrush? Julien

Very nice, I love that scheme. Julien