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Matt Parvis

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Everything posted by Matt Parvis

  1. As I was getting the pictures together to post, I noticed the fern/vine as well. Having had it pointed out elsewhere as well, it has been removed. (Fortunately that was easy to do.) Thanks for the kind words everyone, they are appreciated. Matt
  2. Finished this one up recently. This is the first project I've completed since I made the switch to lacquer paints for airbrushing, and I wish I'd made the switch sooner. Matt
  3. Very, very nice. The body position on the board and the board interaction with the wave looks right on. Matt
  4. If you are looking for information on how to get started, Shep Paine's book "How to Build Dioramas" is an unrivaled resource. Some of the techniques are a little dated but much of the information is timeless. Matt
  5. With Google maps and street view great references are only a click away. As an example, I am working on a project set in the Normandy area and needed references for a building. After a little bit of searching and going up and down various streets I found this building which works for what I need. Caution is needed to not use a modern building as a historic reference, but, with some consideration it isn't too difficult. Matt
  6. Rob, I agree 100% about the 251. It isn't really integrated into the groundwork as it should be. I made the road and the snow and should have attached the 251 into the road as it dried but didn't think ahead enough to do that. Next time more crud. Matt
  7. Thanks! The snow is all from AK Interactive, their Terrains Snow (AK8011), Snow Sprinkles (AK8009), and Snow Microballoons (AK8010). There is a pretty good how to on Youtube as well that can be found here if you are interested. Matt
  8. Thanks for the kind words gentlemen, they are appreciated. The small size is both a challenge and a blessing. Challenge because even the tiniest nudge will send pieces off into oblivion. The blessing is that with the small size and simplified construction I can move through the build/paint process quicker and keep interest up. IanC, yes it is the Dragon kit. Stuart, the figure is this one. Finding figures for 1/72 is the biggest challenge to me. There are lots and lots of soft plastic figures out there of course, but, the detail is rarely any good and the poses are pretty much all action poses which generally don't interest me. Matt
  9. Started this a while back and lost interest. It went back in its box and sat for years. I ordered the figure in 1/48 for a different project and ended up with the 1/72 version. Decided to combine it with this and here you have the result. It was a fun little project and it is always nice to finish something that has lagged. Matt
  10. Hard to believe this all started with some peeled paint! Amazing work all around. Matt
  11. Beautiful work Rob. As others have said, it just draws you in. The setting is perfect as well. All in all, amazing. Matt
  12. Ahh, the joys of incorrect scale. Even with body size difference, when figures are far enough off in scale, you can see it. Not as big of a deal in more popular scales with all of the options available, but, with less populated scales figure wise it can be quite frustrating. Matt
  13. Beautiful work. That paint scheme is no joke and you have pulled it off perfectly. The struts for the landing gear are particularly impressive. Matt
  14. Looking good. It may not be a perfect replica, as you say, but, it is immediately obvious what it is. For the base of the stand, most craft stores have simple pine boards with a routed edge. A little sanding, some stain and varnish, drill a hole for the support rod and done and dusted. Matt
  15. Manfred, I don't have experience with the RP Toolz cutter, but, I do have a Chopper. It works fine, but, for the level of precision you work at I suspect it would not meet your needs. Cuts it makes aren't perfectly square and the marking and measuring guides aren't particularly precise. Keep up the good work, I always enjoy seeing the latest craziness you are up to with this project. Matt
  16. Really coming along now Dan. The additional layers have really integrated everything together. I need to try and be more patient with my own figures and let the color build up slowly as you have done. Matt
  17. Dan, as a struggling figure painter myself, I feel your pain. While I don't have any answers there are a couple of things that might be the trouble. To me, it looks like your shadows have gone a bit more brown then they maybe should be? Like you said, it may be that they are too big as well? I wonder if the combination of those two factors is what makes the coat look more dirty then shadowed? What water are you using to thin the paint? If you are using tap water that might be what is causing the chalkiness. The flesh tones, by the way, look fantastic and I fully intend to try the initial wash you employee next time I've got a face to do. Matt
  18. To me, it matters more how a scene looks then if the scales are different. I suspect, but don't know, that some of Aitor Azkue's dioramas mix scales and you wouldn't know it. Even items of the supposed same scale don't always work together. Try putting a 1/48 Tamiya figure next to a 1/48 ICM figure and it is pretty obvious something is off. Matt
  19. Not sure if you are looking for more references, but, if you are, there is a little bit (By "a little bit" I mean 453 pages worth) that should be relatively reliable as it was published by NASA in October 1963 located here. Matt
  20. Really nice work Rob and quick to finish up. There is probably a lesson there for me with my many stalled projects... I wonder if I'll learn it... probably not. Anyway, the whole scene is really nice. The camo painting is effective and the horses look good, not to overdone with contrast as they often seem to my eye to be. The groundwork is particularly effective, I'd say you've nailed the look of a spring thaw perfectly. Matt
  21. Got more horses planned? For the reins, one thing I have taken to doing for rifle slings, so very similar to reins, is to lay lead wire on the bench and roll over it to flatten it out. It can be a little fragile, but, it has no spring so stays exactly where you put it. Matt
  22. Very late to this thread as well, but, the best piece of advice I can give for learning about building a diorama is Sheperd Paine's book, "How to Build Dioramas". Some of the techniques are a little dated, but, as a source to help you avoid the various pitfalls and give you a good foundation of knowledge, it is tough to beat. Matt
  23. Rob, how about some unraveled speaker wire. Like so: Matt
  24. Looking good Rob. The tails look a little fuzzy to me. I wonder if some PVA thinned with water and brushed over them might knock down some of the fuzz? Matt
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