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Matthew1974

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Everything posted by Matthew1974

  1. This document found here: https://history.army.mil/museums/Arms-and-Ordnance/documents/Policy-Sop/Ordnance/US_Army-Aircraft-Paint-Color-Guides.pdf discusses how olive drab changed through the years as used on US Army aircraft.
  2. I use the polyurethane varnishes and really like them over the acrylic resin line they also produce. I thin it ~ 50% and spray in light coats separated by at least 4 hours at about 15psi with a 0.25 needle. I also keep a brush moistened with airbrush cleaner nearby to mitigate tip dry. Albornoz Pablo has a great tutorial on its use on Vallejo’s YouTube channel. You can find it here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zFS-jTba9vQ Hope it helps!
  3. Vallejo primer is polyurethane based. It dries to touch quickly but takes a few days (or more) to cure where it can be GENTLY sanded but even then it’s not that durable because it does not bond with the plastic like a lacquer primer does. That said it provides a great base for applying Vallejo paint to and comes in a wide selection of useful colors. The company’s YouTube channel has a good tutorial on its use.
  4. I use the polyurethane varnishes by Vallejo of which these are not. 26.518 looks to be packaged like the polyurethane stuff (26.651) though. Maybe Vallejo is reformulating the varnish as the polyurethane formula was a tad delicate for subsequent weather stages and ironically did not take well at all to their own decal softener (now called medium) which would eat right through the varnish. Just a note but the gloss polyurethane varnish dries quickly and is fully cured in about 48 hours.
  5. I grew up using enamels, mainly Testors, to build with. After the mandatory break from modeling in high school through college for sports, girls, studying, work, girls, beer, and girls, I came back to the hobby and started using Gunze Aqueous and loved the paint. Sadly it stopped being imported to the US and I switched to Humbrol enamel and got on great with it for years. I then decided to give Vallejo Air a try, mainly for their range. My first couple of attempts were disasters-paint peeling, furiously bubbling over in the cup, orange peel... I gradually got used to the stuff by not thinking about it in the end. I had convinced myself there was some voodoo involved in getting this paint to work and I would never get it. The one thing I pay attention to is cure time, not dry time, for both the primer and paint. In the American southeast where I live this can take a few days. Once it does cure it’s pretty durable. I admit though I completely understand why some dislike it.
  6. Thanks for the reply... when I get back to an Italian M13/40 that I have so far utterly failed to lay down satisfactory mottling on, I’m going to give the IPA/ water mix a try. Cheers!
  7. I use a wet palette when hand-brushing ModelColor, adding a drop or two of water if needed. The glaze medium is some interesting stuff - Youtube has some neat videos on effects people achieve with this product.
  8. I always suspected Vallejo could be sprayed with isopropyl but never gave it a shot as I had read about the paint “gumming up” once mixed. Do you use this to thin ModelAir and ModelColor? Any issues with tip dry? Very interested because isopropyl is much cheaper than Vallejo’s proprietary thinner. By the way, I’ve followed you work. Phenomenal and first rate.
  9. Already stocking up on new sanding sticks! Thank you for sharing!
  10. The mistake with the wing root is not something that would particularly bother me about a kit, but I appreciate the opinions of others on the subject. It is nice to see Bronco using relatively recent PRC history to promote modeling and thus hopefully draw new folks into the hobby. I spent many years in both the Republic of Korea and Japan over a 25 year period and as the middle class grew, so too did the interest in our hobby. Given the PRC’s immense population and ever growing middle class one can hope that our hobby will grow accordingly!
  11. The sun fading technique you used is first rate! I have this kit scheduled up for the interceptor group build and hope I can get to half the level you achieved. Well done!
  12. I use Vallejo Model Air almost exclusively and have never gotten a nice feathered edge when spraying freehand. Very frustrating. I use paper masks to provide a nice feathered but tight transition between colors. I have an Italian M13/40 in the works which has five coats of primer on it, as I have attempted that many times with trying to get the camo right with Model Air to no avail. My next go will be with Tamiya thinned with their lacquer thinner to try and get it right. My suggestion, like Mark showed, is cut out paper masks and secure with low tack masking tape.
  13. When doing some research for an upcoming build of Kitty Hawk’s UH-1D Iroquois, I came across the document linked below that provides some interesting research on what color US Army aircraft were painted from WW II to the modern era, particularly with regards to what it claims are correct shades of olive drab... It’s short and sweet and I thought others may find it interesting given the various debates about olive drab. Enjoy! https://history.army.mil/museums/Arms-and-Ordnance/documents/Policy-Sop/Ordnance/US_Army-Aircraft-Paint-Color-Guides.pdf
  14. I like Vallejo Model Wash as both a filter and a wash. They thin with water, come in many colors, and are flexible and fun to play with in achieving many effects. The only downside is once they dry they are permanent so work in small areas at a time. They are not like a and enamel or oil wash where you can reactivate them with thinner. Although I haven’t tried them, Flory Models weathering wash looks impressive and I have heard many good comments on it.
  15. As far as Vallejo lifting when being masked, one thing that helps is using their proprietary polyurethane primers. Mist the primer on in light coats until satisfied with the coverage and then give them enough time to cure. For me in the southern US, during summer it can take a couple of weeks to fully cure given our extremely high humidity. I then spray the model air in light misty coats thinned if need be with Vallejo’s thinner and flow improved, which again need to have enough time to cure before masking. 99.9% of the time I experience no paint lift when removing any masks. That being said, I completely sympathize with those that don’t care for the brand.
  16. I have an Aztec (metal body) I got for like 50% off, new from Amazon, to augment my Paasche. Worked well enough a couple of times, then started leaking paint along the seam of the body. I contacted Testors and they said to send it to them for a service, which I did and when it was returned, again sprayed well for a couple of sessions and then had the same problem so I bought a new Paasche Raptor and like others haven't, looked back since. As Testors no longer makes Aztek, one of these days I will take it apart and see if I can get it working just to see if it can be done.
  17. Up until about 2008, I used Mr. Hobby Aqueous paints as my go to. Great range, thinned easily with isopropyl alcohol, and were highly durable. However they stopped importing the line to the States and I switch to Tamiya and was generally happy, except for their limited range of colors... Four years ago I switched to Vallejo Model Air and get on okay with them, except for as noted the tip dry and subpar durability. For tip dry, I keep a soft brush ready with thinner and periodically sip down the tip; for durability I have found that giving them a couple days time to cure before masking and such helps. Ironically, Model Color and Panzer Aces are great for brush painting and are very durable.
  18. I use Vallejo Model Wash over a well cured Vallejo gloss coat. They come in a variety of colors and are thinned with normal H2O that allow for a range of effects to be achieved, not just a panel line wash but as a filter as well. Their quick drying time is a blessing and a curse, but really once you get the hang of them, its fun to play around with them to achieve various effects.
  19. Really like the effect you achieved in showing the worn paint were the crew would be walking. Did you first paint the green and then gently sand down the gloss sea blue or use a different method? Very realistic!
  20. Very realistic looking finish, particularly the weathering! Very nice!
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