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About Matthew1974

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 05/29/1972

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  • Location
    Commonwealth of Virginia
  • Interests
    Aircraft, armor, naval modeling; fishing; jogging

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  1. Excellent finish on the vehicle! The Soldiers look very realistic as well!
  2. Thanks for the reply... when I get back to an Italian M13/40 that I have so far utterly failed to lay down satisfactory mottling on, I’m going to give the IPA/ water mix a try. Cheers!
  3. I use a wet palette when hand-brushing ModelColor, adding a drop or two of water if needed. The glaze medium is some interesting stuff - Youtube has some neat videos on effects people achieve with this product.
  4. I always suspected Vallejo could be sprayed with isopropyl but never gave it a shot as I had read about the paint “gumming up” once mixed. Do you use this to thin ModelAir and ModelColor? Any issues with tip dry? Very interested because isopropyl is much cheaper than Vallejo’s proprietary thinner. By the way, I’ve followed you work. Phenomenal and first rate.
  5. Already stocking up on new sanding sticks! Thank you for sharing!
  6. The mistake with the wing root is not something that would particularly bother me about a kit, but I appreciate the opinions of others on the subject. It is nice to see Bronco using relatively recent PRC history to promote modeling and thus hopefully draw new folks into the hobby. I spent many years in both the Republic of Korea and Japan over a 25 year period and as the middle class grew, so too did the interest in our hobby. Given the PRC’s immense population and ever growing middle class one can hope that our hobby will grow accordingly!
  7. The sun fading technique you used is first rate! I have this kit scheduled up for the interceptor group build and hope I can get to half the level you achieved. Well done!
  8. I use Vallejo Model Air almost exclusively and have never gotten a nice feathered edge when spraying freehand. Very frustrating. I use paper masks to provide a nice feathered but tight transition between colors. I have an Italian M13/40 in the works which has five coats of primer on it, as I have attempted that many times with trying to get the camo right with Model Air to no avail. My next go will be with Tamiya thinned with their lacquer thinner to try and get it right. My suggestion, like Mark showed, is cut out paper masks and secure with low tack masking tape.
  9. When doing some research for an upcoming build of Kitty Hawk’s UH-1D Iroquois, I came across the document linked below that provides some interesting research on what color US Army aircraft were painted from WW II to the modern era, particularly with regards to what it claims are correct shades of olive drab... It’s short and sweet and I thought others may find it interesting given the various debates about olive drab. Enjoy! https://history.army.mil/museums/Arms-and-Ordnance/documents/Policy-Sop/Ordnance/US_Army-Aircraft-Paint-Color-Guides.pdf
  10. I like Vallejo Model Wash as both a filter and a wash. They thin with water, come in many colors, and are flexible and fun to play with in achieving many effects. The only downside is once they dry they are permanent so work in small areas at a time. They are not like a and enamel or oil wash where you can reactivate them with thinner. Although I haven’t tried them, Flory Models weathering wash looks impressive and I have heard many good comments on it.
  11. As far as Vallejo lifting when being masked, one thing that helps is using their proprietary polyurethane primers. Mist the primer on in light coats until satisfied with the coverage and then give them enough time to cure. For me in the southern US, during summer it can take a couple of weeks to fully cure given our extremely high humidity. I then spray the model air in light misty coats thinned if need be with Vallejo’s thinner and flow improved, which again need to have enough time to cure before masking. 99.9% of the time I experience no paint lift when removing any masks. That being s
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