Stalker6Recon

I found a pretty large tub of autobody filler at the hardware store today, if I post the ingredients, will that help define whether its good to use? The guy even told me the you can stray it thinned out, might be perfect using this application for restoration of lost details. Also, been looking for a thinning agent for acrylics and enamels, or just a good brush cleaner, both air and regular, is paint thinner and lacquer thinner the same thing? I could not tell as both had generic labels with little detail. One did say that it was also known as mineral/white spirits. I remeber back in the day, the last thing we ran through our sprayers was mineral spirits as it cleaned the last residue and served to lube all the components within.

Looks great, and with all that carbon on twisty parts, no way a decal would make the grade. Since I do mostly military kits, this won't be applicable to me, for now, but I will remember it hopefully. Cheers, Anthony Stalker6recon D'Agostino

You and I are in the same boat, I haven't built a model in more than thirty years, and the modelling art has changed drastically. So many aftermarket parts that will turn your ten pound Revell into a hundred pound monster in no time, would be nice to make sure the ending weathering doesn't spoil the work. I will watch this post, as I too have serious supply problems because I reside in the Philippines.

I have a link to a method that can remove scratches, even the ugly seams left behind from the molding process, the results speak for themselves and the amount of labor seems almost too easy, no floor wax required as well. Take a look, hope this helps. https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/how-to-repair-clean-and-polish-clear-parts/

I have seen PE benders online, anywhere from $20 to $100 dollars. This might be a case where having the right tool for the job is actually true. I don't know for certain if they work, I have never used one, or even used PE before, but I will soon, I hope someone can give more definitive information for us beginners.

Catweasle, isn't that the code word to get the lady with the whips to stop? That said, awesome article, I was skeptical when I read the title, now I am a believer. Just hope I can find a similar product here in the Philippines. I also read an article about saving clear parts from damage and removing the seam that is often left behind as well. It was another "can't be done" fix that I didn't believe was possible, yet the proof is in the pudding as they say. Here is a link for anyone interested. https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/how-to-repair-clean-and-polish-clear-parts/ Cheers!

Thanks to everyone that gave advice/encouragement on this seemingly out of place post, I hope to find my way around the site and do better at location the next time. I have decided that after all the back and forth, to just throw in the towel and quit modelling all together. Just kidding, I decided that the time for debate and worry are over, and I have put one of my AH-6J's on the table, the build has begun. As it is a conversion, the first order of business is to removed both front and rear doors, which are part of the frame. This was done first using my exacto handle with a sewing needle, scoring the lines over an over again. This worked pretty good, the occasional slip outside the line must now be sanded away though. Then I tried my new mini-saws with less success, but I did learn how not to remove plastic from a kit. It worked, but it left a jagged mess behind, I just hope that it will clean up ok. So again, thanks to you all, I will try to post some more info and photos for scrutiny on my profile. Any words, good or bad, are certainly welcome, as are tips to help me move along. I have never used resin/PE, so any tips to avoid disaster would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Anthony Stalker6recon D'Agostino

I absolutely agree with what you said. As a beginner when I was a boy, I started with snap-together kits, some bad brushes and testors enamals. The kits wers darn ugly, but they were mine and I loved them all the same. You are right, it is supposed to be fun, and my anxiety is more about excitment than torment, I just want to hit the ground running. I am sort of an anomaly, not really a beginner, but far behind the curve when it comes to all the new aftermarket parts and upgrades. When I finish a model, I really just want it to take off and fly away, thats the kid in me. So for true begginers, usually a child without the means, this list does not apply. For an adult that knows they love the art, it really is a good start list, and there is no airbrush/compressor in the list, that can come later for sure. My main reason for posting this, is my unique situation, where almost everything must be ordered via ebay, or some stores that ship here. I wanted to consolidate the items I need, and hopefully buy it all in one go, save me tonnes of money on shipping and import duties. As I am new to this site, which by the way is awesome, some modellers set the bar very high, and the best part, we try to help eachother out. Encouraging people to try new things, go beyond their main genre and learn a great deal about the history behind their kits. I have been dormant for a while because I had no space to work, and our cats would have destroyed anything I tried to build anyway. Now in a new home, I have my own workspace, free from cats and dogs, and I am almost ready to begin my first kit, that is very exciting to me. I just want to be absolutely certain that I have everything I need before I begin. I probably set my goals too high, but that is the only way to get better. And of course the centuries of experience you guys bring to the table is priceless to me. For me, asking these questions is a form of flattery almost, a bow down to those with greater knowledge that inspire people like me to go the extra mile. That is why I joined this community.

Actually, while I agree with most of your argument, especially those on a limited budget, there are some flaws as well. I have noticed that many of the paints needed for a specific kit, come in two dirrent forms, which then jams up the goal of staying within one paing type. For instance, most of the F-15 can be painted using water based paintz from tamiya or vallejo, but the tail/exhaust might need to be a metalizer that is only available in enamel colors from the same paint company. Then the idea of staying within one paint group goes out the window. From my researching, I am to believe that paint brushes should be kept seperate as not to contaminate one with the other, so a set of two 00 brushes may be needed. As far as the paints go, I remember a time when the front page of the instructions had all the needed paints listed, only to find a call-out during construction of a color not listed at the start. Maybe that is why it is best to read through the instructions fully before beginning. But, it is probably also true that there are basic colors that you should buy, which are almost always used for specific details, like cockpits or little green men that sit in them. I don't know what those basic colors are just yet, and it would be nice to get an idea of that before I start my first build. My situation is unique though, as I don't have a corner hobby store to make a quick run to, and by the missing ingredient. For me, no matter what it is, I have to place an order and have it shipped to my home, which is a long and slow process of anxiety, the will it arrive or vanish into the winds, such is the postal system of a third world country. The closest hobby shop that I have found, is in Manila, and even they have limited stocks of equipment. On the whole, I agree with your argument, probably a wise and thrifty way to begin. You don't need US Navy paints if you are doing airforce aircraft. But if you have limited local stock and must order pretty much everything under the sun AND the sun, best to get it all in one go. Having finished 90% of a build, only to shelve it while you wait for the donkey to cross the mountain ridge with the decal set, would be an act of sheer frustration, at my age, frustration is to be avoided. Come to think of it, maybe modelling is not the best route for agina patients! Thanks for your input, it adds flavor to the conversation!

Thanks, awesome list! Just a few details if you don't mind. What is PVA glue? I live in the Philippines, everything needs to be locally sourced and usually converted to a local brand, scary, or ordered online, expensive. Also, sanding sticks, is that something you buy, or you make? I bought a few sheets of 2000 & 2500 grit sandpaper, I want to go slow on all my sanding, as a new guy, they are wet/dry too, so bonus. Have you ever noticed that things cost 3x more if they have a specialty tag attached to them? I looked for sanding sticks, and could not find them, then I had a moment of clarity, they sell truck loads of nail polishing sticks by the half penny, they have four grades of grit and can turn nails into mirrors, so I bought some of those. The also bough some angled nails clippers, looks like angle cutters, only a lot smaller and sharper, great for cutting parts from the sprue, I hope. I am in a bad part of the world for modellers, of course they make the kits here, but they don't build them. Actually, bit off topic, there is a Tamiya plant near my home that offers tours... I plan to grab what I can and hit the doors running (jk) when I visit, should be fun, I will post pictures when I go. Anyway, thanks for the tips, I guess I am almost there, just a few more odds and ends and I can get started. See you on the dark side!

That was sort of my point. For the new members that don't know their way around, and as I said, I looked, this seemed like the next logical step. Maybe there should be a list for each genre, giving those who plan on doing WWII gear, a starting point. Then another one for gamers, the paints they will use are far different than what a modern military aircraft modeller will need, even the tools are likely different to a degree. That was sort of my point, and the fact that even after typing in a few search queries, I could still find nothing that helps a total beginner, who probably feels overwhelmed and maybe even scared to create a post. That should not be the goal, we need to support one another and our local stores, we need to make sure this art form grows, not dies. A young bloke (trying to sound Brit) must feel welcomed, not be admonished for posting in the wrong place, where there seems like and endless amount of places one could start. Hope you understand, sorry if I put this in the wrong place, but it seemed to fit considering.

After several attempts at locating information that I need, I determined that maybe this has never been done before and should possible have it's own forum partition. I will get to the skinny of my request. Basically, what should a beginning modeller have in their workstation if starting from scratch, before they ever open their first kit and begin building? I.e. For modern warplanes, a beginner should have airbrush, compressor, a list of paint codes to have for, say US Navy aircraft, as well as paints that are used for non-FS painting, but will be used often. Basically the list of all paints a modeller should have in their everyday colors, then the paints for specific color call-outs. This is in military terms, a PCI (pre-combat inspection). Make surs you got the right gear before you go out and pick a fight, I hope to acheive the same for beginners like me. Hand brushes, sandpaper (what level of grit) puddy (type and why) exacto knife with different blade shapes and their uses, panel line tool, weathering effects and washes, decal solutions, thinners field both enamel and acrylics, paint tent/box, ventilation. Anyway, I am new (again, after a 30 year layoff) to modelling, and things have changed a lot, mostly the quality has gone up I hope, and the aftermarket has exploded for upgrades and conversions. Having a workstation with the basic tools and paints to begin, is itself stressful. I would hate to start a kit, only to find out that I need a certain tool or paint or whatever, and all progress halts until the missing aspect arrives. This could be added to each group of modellers with a list of the basic paints used on almost all kits of that genre, and an explanation of how to determine the specific paints required. This could be fun for the more experienced modellers, see who has the best list, make a contest out of it. Mostly though, I really need to know that I have at least the minimum tools and paints/glues/overcosts required to begin my first build. Hope to hear from you all soon and thanks in advance, sincerely, Stalker6recon

I just received my kit (along with the UH-1Y) this week, one of my favorite subjects. Coolist thing I ever saw, a Marine F-18 flying center, while two AH-1's flew in a V formation, one on each wingtip. I did not know that the F-18 could fly slow enough, of the AH-1 could fly fast enough to be in formation together, awesome site. Second only too watching and listening to A-10's doing gun runs in Graf, Germany. Every pass was concluded by the BURRRRRRRRRP sound and flare countermeasures being released, never knew why they did that. Anyway, beautiful kit, I only hope to come close to such a beautiful looking kit, as I am basically a begginer after a thirty year layoff. Thanks for the inspiration, sincerely, Anthony "stalker6recon" D'Agostino

I am a bit late to the party, but I just received mine yesterday. Great review, I will keep returning to the review for guidance when I begin the build. My only complaint would be the raised panel lines, in every photo I have seen so far, they don't appear to be rasied at all, in fact, they appear to be a V shaped concave seam. Also, I wonder how I can achieve the golden tint the real birds have on the canopy, which I understand has more to do with making the cockpit stealthy over giving the pilot some sun shade. To me, and this might sound crazy, but I can see a version of this with no clear canopy at all, since the pilot flies using the cameras and sensors projected onto a screen inside the helmet, there is no reason to have a canopy. Maybe pilots just arent ready to fly without the visual cues they are used too? Anyway, great review. I plan to build a A and C version later on down the road. In fact, since I am basically a beginner again, I might shelve this and build the other, less complex versions first. Cheer, Anthony "stalker6recon"

I know that I am nearly a decade behind this conversation, and just so everyone knows, Kitty Hawk has done nothing to address the giant bumps in their panel lines. Of course I have not painted it yet, even started it, just doing pre-build research on the airframe. I am in awe of the knowledge I can find on this site, I am absolutely a laymen when it comes to aeronautics and stealth. It was my understanding that most of the stealthy aspect of the F-35 where built into the foreward aspects of the plane, the rest is done via electronic countermeasures, but I may be wrong. Anyway, I was wondering is anyone came up with a viable solution to the ridiculously raised panel lines, as nearly all the photos I am gathering, show pretty much a smooth skin. In some photos, the lines appear to actually be concaved in a V shape, but that might be lighting trickery. Anyway, I am looking forward to building this kit, and when I have the time/money, it finish out with the other versions, being the F-35A and C variants. I might even try a different maker, like hobby boss. I hope I can pick your brains when troubles or just questions arise during my builds, you all have infinity more experience and wisdom than I can possibly fathom.

What a great thread, the F-18 has always been in my heart since I was a kid. When the super hornets was revealed, I was proud of it, like a dead beat dad that finds oit his kid just got center position for Manchester United (trying to throw in some British humor, I'm American, don't hate me for it) and brags to his friends about being a sperm donor. Anyway, decades ago, I used to build kits, getting better and better at it, but never to this level. As I go around the site and see the amazing builds of the airframes that are in my build list, I get a hint of 🤢, knowing that mine will never look that good. Worst, many builders here make what they do look so easy. Much of it is talent built from over decades, other spects are the endless amount of products that take what was once a high wire act of skill and chemistry, now just a simple pre-made wash done right. I live in the Philippines, very little is available here for modelers, all the aftermarket gear is non-existent, my only real recourse is ebay, but the shipping is usually double the price of the product I want to buy. Anyway, I have two Super Hornets in my stash, one will be built as an E, the other an F. Both kits are the Hasegawa P38. After seeing this beautiful version, and others, I put these near the back of the pack. I am guessing it will take years of practice and destruction of failed attempts, before I will even consider trying those kits. I want them to be right, and just hope that I can learn quickly from the literal centuries of experience on this site. I am humbled and awed, but that is also motivating. One day, I will start a thread that is worthy of sharing, thanks to all for being inspiring to all us mere mortals.

Ok, this is how much of a neebie I am. What is bluetack? What do you use to polish the canopy? I have not bought this kit as of yet, but I am certainly planning on it. I want to do a display of the Marines fighter/attack aircraft thru the decades. AV-8 is a must, then the F/A-18C or D, I forget which one. and of course the newest, and most ridiculous F-35B. I saw Meng has an offering in 1/48 of the F-35, I have yet to look for reviews, but I have heard good things about the armor class kits, so maybe this is a good option over the more expensive KittyHawk, which I can't seem to find for less that 60 dollars plus shipping. Anyway, thanks for the input and tips, I am still in absorb mode, haven't yet begun my first build. I will be doing the MH-6J with conversion kit from CZ, which will be my first experience with resin and PE........I need to make sure I have everything down before I start the build. I am still collecting the gear that I am going to need, including paints. Thanks in advance, Anthony Stalker6Recon.

Thanks for the advice, and after having the good feedback, I am definitely cut down on the markers. As I had said previously, I have been out of the game for more than 20 years, a lot has changed. I already have several resin parts either on hand, or on the way, which is why I wanted to buy the saw kit. Plus, I need something that I can control while doing panel lines. These are techniques I have never done before, the tools have changed so much, and everything that I have looked at, I double check on Amazon to read the feedback. This saw set has very good ratings from a lot of people. Once thing I have learned in my years, always use the right tool for the job. I will also cut the number of panel line accents. Really for two reason, one as you stated, and the other, I have watched enough videos to see that you can use very thin paint to achieve the same results. I will revamp my cart and try again. What do you guys think about these prices? They seem very low for the items when compared to Amazon US. Which is what I base them on. The are 2/3s or even half the price that I have found on Amazon.com. The other items you mention, are the decal adhesive, which I was buying based on my previous experience of having the film show and/or silvering. Some of the kits I have bought, have bad decals, old, yellow, can't use them. Others have bad ratings, as either too thick, or too brittle. I have been buying aftermarket decals to get more of what I want as far as designs go. I already have a decal setter in my stash, and from the reviews of the adhesive, it seemed like a good fit. I think I will keep that one, just be safe than sorry. At such a good price, I can't see a real reason not to include that in my list. I was planning to buy Tamiya paints from this site as well, when I figured out what I needed. Any advice on the "weathering sticks"? I do plan to do armor after I finish my current stash of aircraft, and figured while I was making the purchase, I would pick those up as well. They are not available in the Philippines, even if they are, they will be more than double the price, if I am lucky. Usually the prices here are double, triple what they are elsewhere. It sucks, but the Philippines is very protective of their own manufacturers, and even if there is not competition, they still over tax imports at nearly 100%, which creates the extremely high prices. Thanks again guys, you are going to help me put more money into kits and less into materials, which is always what you want in the end.

Thanks for that feedback. I was specifically looking at the red marker because I read on one of the posts here, how they used that to line the bay doors, same as you. Seemed like a pretty smart thing to do. As you said, it is not clear how well the Tamiya markers fare either. Bit off topic, when I moved to the Philippines, I brought with me (not sure why) a sharpie marker that I had already owned for more than a few years. I guess I figured that they would hard to find here. Anyway, today, TEN YEARS since I moved here, that marker remains in my kitchen drawer and still works perfectly. I hope that the Tamiya markers are the same. I will probably eliminate a few of the markers that I may never use, but I will keep the red/black and maybe silver. I have never done weathering of any kind before, and when I saw all these different panel line accent colors, I went a bit nuts. Are those something you actually need or save time, or is it just as easy to thin out your regular paints to create the desired effects? Again, thanks for letting me pick your brain, you have probably forgotten more skills in modeling than I will be able to learn with the rest of my life ahead of me......Anthony

My issue is just availability of any paints in the Philippines. I did send a message directly to LifeColor, and they have been exceptional in their reply to me, asking me to gather a list of colors I need, and offering me some form of discount as yet disclosed, but I was grateful for the offer. I have written down all the kits I have currently, and the ones I have on order/shipping at the moment, so I can try to figure out what colors I will actually need. As a new/old modeler, I will need to rely on getting FS colors for now, until I can become comfortable with mixing my own color to achieve the proper FS shade, which can't be easy. There are lots of problems I foresee, such as my monitor may not be tuned to show colors in their actual hue. How to know that the color I am looking at in a picture, is actually correct in the first place? This is why I desire pre-made FS. They may not be accurate, but I am not going to be extraordinarily picky about this, the models are for my pleasure only, and won't be sold/shown beyond the pictures I post here. With all that said, does this list seem like a good start to having the tools/colors one needs for military modeling? Is there anything in the list that I can ditch, and is there any items that are "must haves" which I did not put into my cart? Thanks for the feedback, I really do appreciate all the help you guys are giving me, more of a "moral support" as much as it is advice. Sincerely, Anthony "stalker6recon"

As an American veteran that wrote the same check, I thank you for your service, and the honor and patriotism you display with those words. Each of us come from imperfect countries, but the difference between us, and other nations out there, is we are always striving to make our countries as close to perfect as we can. Serving our nation is the highest honor to our nation we can provide, and YOUR nation is lucky to have you. PS. This is a great review, I am on ebay right now, getting ready to pull the trigger, and this review pushed me over the top. Can't wait to get my hands on this, but I will have to be patient as well, I need to figure out what modifications I plan to use before I build this. It has literally been decades since my last build, and I want to start again, now that I am medically retired from the military. I just hope that I don't get in over my head, and I spend 10 times the amount of time learning from others, before I do one cut from the tree, one coat of paint, one line of glue. Research and learning are my main goals, as I build up the kits and the tools I will need. Thing are very different today, with the awesome tools/paints/resin/PE products, turning my old days of straight out of the box building, into a real craft. Thanks again to Mike for the great review, and thanks again to you, for you honor and service to your country. This is why the American's and the British will always share common bonds of brotherhood.

Ok guys, here is a "buy" list from the dealer I found that has very good prices. These are the items in my cart. Remember, I am starting from scratch. If you have the time, can you look over my list and tell me if any of these items should be removed, or if I am missing anything. I don't want to get hit by a bunch of shipping charges, so I am trying to get as much as I can in one bulk order. Mr.Hobby MS232 Mr. Mark Setter　 US $2.30 US $2.30 × Tamiya 87132 Panel Line Accent Color - Brown US $2.80 US $2.80 × Tamiya 87131 Panel Line Accent Color - Black US $2.80 US $2.80 × Tamiya 87133 Panel Line Accent Color - Gray US $2.80 US $2.80 × Tamiya 87140 Panel Line Accent Color Dark Brown 40ml US $2.80 US $2.80 × Tamiya 87176 Decal Adhesive US $2.30 US $2.30 × Tamiya 87086 Weathering Stick - Sand US $2.30 US $2.30 × Tamiya 87102 Mark Fit Finishing Materials Series 40ml US $2.00 US $6.00 × Tamiya 74094 Photo-Etched Craft Saw US $5.50 US $5.50 × Tamiya 89204 MP-04 Black Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89205 MP-5 Yellow Paint Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89207 MP-07 Silver Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89208 MP-08 Gold Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89209 MP-9 Flu.Red Paint Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89002 X-2 White Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89011 X-11 Chrome Silver Enamel Paint Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89007 X-7 Red Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89012 Marker X-12 Gold Paint Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89301 XF-1 Flat Black Paint Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 89001 Marker X-1 Enamel Black Paint Marker US $2.00 US $2.00 × Tamiya 87095 Putty White Tube for Plastic Models US $2.30 US $4.60 × Tamiya 87139 Model Paints & Finishes CA Cement (Stong) Net 3g US $3.20 US $6.40 × Tamiya 87035 Masking Tape 18mm US $1.90 US $3.80 × Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement 40ml For Plastic Model Kits US $2.80 US $5.60 × Tamiya 87114 Paint Retarder (Acrylic) 40ml US $2.30 US $2.30 × Tamiya 87135 Mark Fit (Strong) US $1.90 US $1.90 × Tamiya 25163 1/48 v-22 oaprey with jp marking US $34 Thanks in advance for you help on this list. Sincerely, Anthony "stalker6recon"

Wow, what an awesome reply, lots of very good information. I did read about somewhere about LifeColor not being so good, but that was more than a decade ago, when I searched more about it, I have found much more positive reviews as the time gets closer to present, which is a good thing. I found one dealer in the Philippines that carries their products, but not in the numbers I would like to see. I had bought 5 bottles the last time I was in their store, more than a year ago. I finally opened one of the bottles to see if they were still ok after such a long time sitting in a box. They were very thin, but the color/pigment at the bottom, but appears to have mixed fully again, which is a good thing. The paint does seem really thin, and it sounds like that is how they are making their paints, at a near "airbrush" ready paint. That is guess is good or bad, depending on your situation. For me, I would rather thin paint, which will extend the life of one of the tiny bottles they come in. I made my own bed, and must sleep in it. I choose to live in the Philippines, and have to make due with what they have. Looking through one of the FS charts that includes LifeColor paints, they seem to have the largest selection of FS paints than any other company I have seen. I am also frustrated by Tamiya paints, which apparently someone has linked one paint color as multiple FS colors at the same time. Not sure how that works, seems weird to me. I have probably 30 bottles of Tamiya paint, also bought from that same store where I got the LifeColor. I just made a list of my kits, and now I will go thru them all, to get as many of the FS numbers as I can find, so I can then find out where to order them online. My other issue is with a few of my kits, having been opened or just so old, the decals are so yellow, probably brittle as well, absolutely useless. So now I am trying to hunt down some decal replacements for the kits that I have. This is another bump in the road before I can start building. Once I get the colors I need for the AH/MH-6 Little bird, and the UH-60L Blackhawk, I am going to start there, doing both as SOAR aircraft, all black, will make things a LOT easier on me, while getting back into the hobby. I of course have a picture in my head, of how I want these kits to look, and only hope that I can get close to that vision. There are so many people on here, with so much skill, I am very envious of their work. I have never used weathering products before, and will be attempting these washes for the first time as well. I ordered a Hasegawa F-18F in 1/48 scale from Japan. They shipped it with very little protection, and a lot of parts broke from their trees, including the canopy. I sent them pictures of how I received it, and they sent a replacement kit. Now I have 2 kits of the same aircraft, not exactly what I wanted, but I won't complain. I am hoping to convert one of the aircraft into either the E model, or the G model, if I can find the right parts/decals. I don't think I will have the same "that is not the right intake/gear/tyre/color" standards as some people have, and I will be happy if the kit looks good, but I do care about accuracy when I know something it NOT the way it should be. I also bought the Hasegawa F-15E, but everything I have read about this kit, is that it does NOT make an F-15E at all, and was apparently based on a mock-up of an F-15C before the E program was approved. I was very disappointed to find out it was not a real E model kit, and I have to work extra hard to figure out which kit it will build, and need to find the right decals for that as well. I guess I kind of dug myself into a bit of a hole, when I started buying these things impulse from a store that I only visit, once a year. I am sure that others have run into this kit, and either built it as designed by Hasegawa, or became upset about the unrealistic kit, and converted it to the proper model it represents. I will do some research when this kit is table ready. I emailed that store, and they gave me a list of the FS colors they have from LifeColor, and I will probably be snapping them up, even though the price is way higher than it would be if I was back home. I know, my fault for living here. The import taxes are ridiculous, and even at the high prices I will pay, they still have a very low profit margin for the retailer, so I can't blame them for the high prices. I only started buying on ebay recently, and so far, I have not lost any kits or tools that I have purchased via ebay, and I will continue to buy that way for now. I did find a dealer in Hong Kong, that sells Tamiya paints in the larger 23ml bottle, for less than what I pay locally for the small 10ml bottle. I was shocked at how low the prices are, and he has thousands of positive reviews, so I can only guess that the products are real. I even started a post about his store, cause the prices seem so good, other might want to order from him as well. I wonder if I should just stock up on the Tamiya paints from the guy in Hong Kong, based on the unbelievable prices, and just learn how to mix them to the FS colors I can't find in LifeColor? I know that was a lot of information to chew on, but I really would love to get more feedback, especially about the Tamiya paints available at such great prices, whether I should stock up on them, while I can? Thanks again for so much input, and if I may, I would like to pick your brain again before I begin actually building my first kit. Thanks again, sincerely, Anthony "stalker6recon" D'Agostino

I know this is an old thread, but I am new here. I have been out of modeling for more than 20 years, and I am just now trying to get back into it. I have some questions I have posted already, which can be found on my profile I think. Anyway, I too considered the syringes for mixing, but was not sure if I should draw the paint in at a measured amount, then release that into a cup, and use a separate syringe for the thinner. If you do the whole thing in one syringe, do you go to the thinner first? And is that thinner windex as described? I live in the Philippines now, and I am an American veteran, disabled, the weather is much better for all my busted bones. Anyway, I found a few bottles of LifeColor here, but finding any modeling gear is next to impossible, not a lot of hobby shops in this country. I am trying to find a direct way to buy from the company and I am awaiting their reply. Hope I get good news from them. Anyway, glad I found your tip, you confirmed what I was thinking, hope you can tell me the process you use. LifeColor seems to have the largest selection of FS paints, which is important to me, since I am doing mostly modern aircraft for now, and once I complete my "tribute" to the 5 US military branches, I will try my hand at some WWII kits. Hope I hear back from you, sincerely, Anthony "stalker6recon"

Thanks for the fast response guys, I have bookmarked both of those pages. At the moment, they look like sandscript to me, but I am sure that I can figure it out. I did find a paint in a store in Manila, called "Life Color", and they are FS shades in acrylic, I bought a couple of bottle while I was there, but did not know if they were actually colors I will need. They are "light ghost grey" and "medium ghost grey", which if memory serves, is one of the most used colors for Navy/Marine aircraft. Have any of you heard of this brand? It seems to be pretty thin already, and looks like it will spray very well out of the bottle, but I don't want to start spraying a kit until I know that this stuff will work, and I am not sure what the best way to test it would be, I don't have any spare kits to shoot, just for giggles. Any advice? Also, this just popped in my head. I bought a Paasch (sp) airbrush on amazon. Then I bought a compressor/airbrush kit as well. The kit came with a simple compressor that I have seen a thousand times, all look the same, only a different brand plate is attached. The kit included 3 airbrushes as well, two double action and one single action. Here is the kicker, the paasch (arguably the better of the airbrushes) appears to use a propriety size hose couple that does not fit the compressor, and the hoses that match the three airbrushes do not match the size of the paasch airbrush. Is there a quick fix for this? A coupler that I can replace on the airbrush to fit the standard hose in the kit, so I am able to use any/all of the airbrushes without having to change the couple size when ever I want to switch out brushes? I know that I am probably a pain in the bottom, but you guys have probably forgotten more advice, than I will ever be able to learn. I yield to your expertise, and only hope to come close to the kids you guys produce. Thanks again to all, for all the help. Sincerely, Anthony "stalker6recon". My screen name was my radio call-sign in the army, they have such clever names, scary too. I just could not let it go. ***EDIT*** Hey guys, I just found a link back to our website with a detailed review/overview of LifeColor, the proper way to write it. It looks REALLY GOOD and appears to have more FS colors than any other brand of paint that I have seen so far. I found a seller online with seemingly decent prices, if they will ship to the Philippines, that is another question. The website that carries the paints, is "BNA model world". I will be emailing them, to see if they ship to the Philippines. If you guys have any experience with these paints, please let me know. One other question I forget to ask above, is what are the pressure ranges I should be shooting Tamiya with? I thought it was 20psi, but then I have heard others say 12psi. Little bit confused on that regard. Thanks again. My research is taking me ALL over the place, but that is ok, more information is ALWAYS better than not enough.