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Stalker6Recon

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  1. Very interesting, I finally found a bit of time to watch the videos, amazing how they use completely different techniques, but end up with the same results. Plasmo soldering appears better suited for someone like me, its fast and easy. I finally understand how important flux is to soldering, so I will have to go out and pick up new supplies. My soldering iron is a cheapo, plug in and hope not to burn the house down chinese crap, I think an upgrade might be warranted. In the first video, the technique closely matched the way I would sweat coppers pipes for plumbing. I would heat the
  2. I think I am going to pull the trigger and purchase this. I did find a large bending tool by trumpeter for around $20, a very good price. With as many BIG ED sets that I have, it is almost required tool before I begin my builds. As a rotorhead, the amount of PE and resin is off the charts! Once I have the tools in my inventory, I will review the combo vise/bending tool on this thread. At minimum, the vise will certainly be perfect to paint figures, and I have plenty of those, thanks to my cash of Kitty Hawk kits filled with figures. Cheers, Anthony
  3. I have always planned to used clear tape. Put the part on the end of the tape, sticky side up. Place part in tool, where bend is required and lock it down. Then just lift the tape. If that doesn't work, then I will have to buy single edge blades. They scare me though, I would worry about damaging the paint job on pre-painted PE set, which make up quite a bit if BigED sets these days. Cheers, Anthony PS. Found the xuron cutters on micro-tools website, but they do not ship to the Philippines. Its a great price though, so I am considering my options.
  4. I have a sinking suspicion that I will never find that glue, since I live in the Philippines. The bug? I will have to look that one up, but sounds fun! You don't know how happy I am that soldering is not the only answer, I have never used one before, and something tells me that it's an acquired skill over time. I would probably do more harm than good, if I tried that on delicate PE. Thanks Ray, that response on the other thread was just that, my practical mind at work, but I believe the theory holds true anyway. In the Philippines, its difficult to find any tools, I actually mad
  5. That leads right into my next question. What tools do you use to fold and glue PE parts. Is using a soldering iron the only method to seal up PE joints, like boxes made of PE. Is soldering safe for painted PE parts? What size/wattage soldering iron is required for such intricate work? Thanks in advance, Anthony
  6. Thats what I saw on their website. But you have to be careful, the cutters have extentions, like NS (non-serrated) and ET (etch, or photo etch). When buying, its important to get the correct ET version. I would hope that most decent model shops only carry the ET model, but it definitely pays to make certsin they have the correct cutters. I doubt the cutters for Kevlar will hold up against metal, since it's not designed for such work. Upon double checking the site, the NS is still for metal, but the ET is specifically designed for photo etch, as seen in the picture below.
  7. Good call, I can buy a tiny board here for about a dollar. Just to be certain, you are talking about the white plastic cutting board found in nearly every kitchen? Thanks, Anthony
  8. Excellent points all, especially like the wax pencil to hold down the part while cutting the stub. You may have the answer for the next question regarding the xuron. It appears that the primary cutter is the 9180, but it apparently comes in different blade types. Serrated blades and non-serrated, the "xuron 9180NS". If I do find one thag doesn't cost me a leg and my first born, what type do you recommend? Well nevermind, I just found the details on xurons website. They make the 9180NS for cutting arymid yarn(sp), basically Kevlar used in fiber optic cables as a pull string. I used to work in I
  9. Good suggestions all, especially the tape to prevent premature launch to the carpet monster. Sounds like the consensus is a good old fashioned razor knife, so no reason to spend the piggy bank for a specific tool. It seems to reason that no matter what scale PE you work with, the tabs should generally be the same size. Since I work mostly in 35th, the parts remain a bit larger than some of the ship scales, a bit easier to keep track of. I also have several wet stones and even a diamond set of sharpening plates that I have yet to try, probably perfect for razor blades. I will leave the stones f
  10. Hello all, I need some advice on what tool works best to cut PE off the sheet? I have seen mainly xuron cutters, but in the Philippines, they are very hard to find. I know that I can also use a flat edge razor blade, and gently rock it back and forth, but I prefer to have the right tool for the job, to avoid accidents/damage and leave the lowest amount of clean up possible. Suggestions will be appreciated greatly, Anthony
  11. I wish someone with more knowledge than I had replied here, but I will give you my two cents. From what I have seen regarding ship building, you probably run into some very small, but long PE parts, like railings and such. In your case, I would recommend that you bite the bullet and go for the big one. Better to have the tool that will most likely cover anything you would run into, than buy a tool that needs to be replaced by a bigger one. At the very least, go with the mid size, but certainly nkt the small one. The other option to consider, is much less expensive, but risky. If I
  12. While I did buy the original kit (still in my stash), I have been hoping that Kitty Hawk would come out with 1/35 kits for all their 48 helos, but it doesn't appear they are going to do so, at least not any time soon, sadly. Now with their announced closure for an unknown amount of time, the likelihood of these being given the size increase, is pushed further into the future. Nice pictures and explanation by Zach, someone knows their AH-1 family. Its amazes me that it took decades to add a pair of rotors, always wondered why the only had two anyway, makes the helicopter
  13. Hey guys, late to the party, but I figured I would add this bit of detail regarding the kit. For some strange reason, the main gun turret is wrong. On the actual aircraft, the turret is just a wrap around type, not enclosed. Some of you master builders would likely have no issue correcting this problem with precise dremel work or other method, it would be a shame to hide the details of the rotating 20 Mike-Mike! But this change creates another issue. The turret is designed to hold the weight provided, and might explain the mistake, so you would have to find another method of making certain she
  14. I just checked them out, they certainly do look the same, the price is a lot higher than what I have found from the DSPIAE store on aliexpress. I have never used that site and am curious why everyone thinks it's a shady place to buy items? Is there a lot of bad sellers? Some things I buy online in the Philippines, where I live, are COD. This takes all the risk of buying, almost zero. They don't make money unless the item arrives and I pay for it. I would however, trust their shop, since their repution as an honorable dealer is on the line. Anyway, I look forward to buying these nip
  15. I have been trying to buy a pair of these for some time now, having first found them on ebay, along with a bunch of other tools by the same company. I never heard of them either, but the slick color choice, being the bright red that car owners with a similar color can attest (police have an eye for red cars), that makes their tools hard to ignore. Looking over some macro pictures and videos, it's like a masterful culk leader, taking you in, I sprung for their micro drill set. I too was just as impressed with their quality and accuracy. The only downside in my opinion, was the metho
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