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About Stalker6Recon

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  1. That's an understatement my friend, she looks great! So am I correct, did the kit skip these details (t-locks, commander intercooler box, that awesome pull chain for the troop compartment, all the other details made from white plastic)? Or did you just replace the kit parts because they were inferior? Cheers, Anthony
  2. As a novice model builder, but a professional painter in my time, I recommend you wait on the fix for a few days, just to allow the paints to fully harden. That way, when you sand the area, the new tape won't damage the finish. Plus, it might be a nice look if you find the panel lines where the damage is, and repaint the panels just like a repair on the real aircraft. Then it would not matter if the repaint is different, it would actually add to the realism. That said, the subtle differences do show up in the pictures, just enough to allow everyone to understand what you were going for, and accident or not, you nailed it. She looks great! Cheers, Anthony
  3. Reminds me of a guy that makes his own swatches with every new paint he puts on his paint shelf. If memory serves, he sprays one half, and hand paints the other, just so he can see the actual color as painted. Not a bad idea at all. This guy has the ability to build 1:1 scale, flying models. Many of us mere mortals, can't afford to build 1:48 scale plastic models, this site is just a vulgar display of unending wealth! Even though I am green with envy, I will check out their site, no matter how miserable it makes me feel. A true master class that proves this "if they don't make the version you want oob, then make your own!" I have forgotten how much I learned from that WIP, thanks again, Mr. Ed Anthony
  4. Looking at how it turns, via those skid steer levers, that's nuts! At least the Bradley has a car style setup, gas, brakes, even a steering wheel. The only abnormal aspect to driving it, is the pivot steer mechanism. If memory serves, it reverses which ever side you want to turn too, so when pivoting right, the right tracks go in reverse, while the left go forward, makes for a fun and nauseating ride. And like driving, the more gas you give it, the faster she spins! Fun fun fun! Anthony
  5. Sorry for the late reply, been away from the forums/model building while trying to get through some financial problems. Anyway, I am new to modeling, so my point of view is limited. I can say that the Hasegawa scriber are far better and thinner than the Tamiya set I have. That said, I am pretty sure that Tamiya makes thinner models, I just didn't know better when I bought mine. The Hasegawa also has teeth that my eyes can't see, I had to feel the edges to find which side was intended to cut, this is a good thing, since making scale panel lines is difficult, smaller kerf means closer to realism. I know the feeling when it comes to pin vise scribers, I have had no luck with that method, the pin always jumps out and makes a new gouge. Maybe with practice, it might work, but so far it's been a mess. The other good thing with the saws, they don't jump the way a pin does, and you can follow a hard edge fairly easily, so far, I am sold. I will definitely try other methods since I am so new, but you won't be wrong to have a set of these in your tool box. If you look at my work (stalled unfortunately) on the F-15A, I used the Hasegawa scribers to cut the ailerons and flaps, which are molded together in place, and the tiny gap creates is tighter than a piece of paper, only the plastic between the wing parts was removed, I was extremely happy with the results. Back on topic, things are looking good considering how bad the fit is with this kit. All caught up again, hopefully I will have the motivation to stay online since a new month is close, and hopefully my money problems will be a bit lower this time around. Cheers, Anthony
  6. Interesting to see the different plumbing between the types, glad you have them both to show where the rubber hits the road, very nice sets indeed. Cheers, Anthony
  7. Where did you get those CNC drill bits? Do you like them? I keep seeing them online for just a few dollars, but have held off ordering them, not sure if they are worth the effort. They are much cheaper than model specific micro bits, and come in sets of ten. I need the mid range set, 1-2mm. This month I may just buy a set for sh&ts and giggles. Cool details all over the place, really shows where the kits fail miserably in their detail areas. They probably hope that those who build their kits, never actually worked with the real versions just for that reason. 9 times out of 10, they would be right. Not today though. Looking good mate! Anthony
  8. One of the funnest aspects of driving a track vehicle. I remember the Bradley could do pretty fast pivot turns, enough to make you nauseous , especially those in the turret. Just for historical pleasure, anyone that wants to see a skilled armor group working together in urban areas, look at the syrian military ops on YouTube. Getting that kind of close quarters skill is very difficult and takes lots of practice. Their years at fighting the civil war has made them a formidable fighting force. Anyone that has driven armor, using only the periscope style blocks, knows how to w hard it really is. It's like driving your car while looking thru a straw! Blind spots make up about 80% of your view. Having a talented commander, who has a much better view and able to give precise commands regarding movement, really helps. My bet is that future drivers will use elevated cameras that give an almost video game style view, will be coming soon. But learning to drive with those blocks will always be required skills, no matter how bad it sucks. Cheers, Anthony
  9. WOW! that's all I can say anymore!
  10. Just out of curiosity, did they even try to make these parts, or did the kit have nothing to represent this mechanism? Also, probably already done, but that German made boat/aircraft wire might make nice belts for the motor. Looking forward to the camo decals, I am not sure if I mentioned it, but one reason the color may also be different, the colors were in fact different between cold weather BDU's and warm weather BDU's. The cold weather gear had deeper colors, and washed out slower than the warm weather gear. Cheers, Anthony
  11. Just out of curiosity as the noob, I wonder if the surface prep can be the evil in this mix. Seems to me, there are no limits to the combination of paints, clears and solutions that, in theory, would effect a decal. Maybe this is one of those situations where the top coat caused the problem, and the solution exasperated the situation? I have no idea what is true and correct, and I have seen no amount of varied results by modelers, some pro brand, others absolutely against a brand based on individual results. This of course leads to no confidence among the new guys, worried that we will foul up our decals out of sheer fear and inexperience. this guy And it looks pretty more than good to the rest of us as well! What a beauty! Cheers, Anthony PS. Those empty rocket rails look rather menacing, or is it just me? Also, funny thing those roundels, in most cases, we want the decals to look like paint, and in this instance, the paint looks like decals that look like paint! Is that a double positive? Double negative? Either way, they are perfect
  12. She's gorgeous! It's a race weekend at Silverstone, not much internet, and even less modeling being done. Watching all this MotoGP racing, makes me want to build the Marquez HRC Tamiya kit, and replace the 93 with 99 from an aftermarket decal sheet. But that is future dreaming to be sure. Thanks for the pics, those are nice. Considering my circumstances, I could start painting with the airbrush with just a couple of unknowns that likely need to be filled. One, something to lube the o-rings in my airbrush, I have a feeling that they are dry as a grandmothers scalp. Second, finding a retarder or alternative. I would love to make my own, but the ingredients have proved elusive. Cheers, Anthony
  13. Funny that you brought these out, I actually have some saved in my ebay account for a later date when I have money, at this rate, maybe 2039! I did buy some carbon fiber decals for my bike builds, although I will try a paint method I read on here first. If anyone is curious, the method is basically painting that part black first, then after dry, putting a ladies stocking over the part and spraying a dark silver. Then repeating with another black over the stocking. The results, and my method may be off, that's just from memory (which is less than perfect these days) are absolutely incredible. I am sure a quick search will bring up the method, this might even be useful for painting camouflage on figures as well, something that is worth testing anyway. As always, you have a knack for putting just the right amount of detailing in exactly the right places. Cheers, Anthony
  14. That sucks about the warped parts and soft landing gear, this kit is a bit of a mess. Probably the age, but the air brakes look ridiculously out of shape out of the box, another blunder of the mold, I hope their newer kits don't suffer with this much fit problems. As for the lost detail, there are a lot of tools to help with scribing panel lines, and even though you are not comfortable with that skill, it might be worth looking into again. I too am not comfortable with scribing, but I know that it is a skill that must be developed. Thankfully, the tools are getting better and better. Personally, with my short experience, I have found that the best tool so far, is a set of Hasegawa "try tools" TP-4 panel line scribing saws. They are inexpensive, and their kerf (cutting width) is very small, making them suitable even on most 72nd scale kits. They are made of PE and are very VERY thin. They can be uses with your fingers (no worry about needing stitches) or mounted in a hobby knife, although I have not tried that method yet. Unlike your typical hobby knife scribe, these saws do not jump out of the line as easily, but it's still best to use a guide line, either a template or something else made from metal. The dyno tape isn't the best, since the saw will cut into the tape with ease. Anyway, we have faith that you will be able to get through the many issues with relative ease, I especially like the filler you use, being able to smooth with water is a huge advantage over sanding, and there is not threat of lost detail as well. Cheers, Anthony
  15. And it's such a lovely build, those decals truly are a mess. Looks like you conquered most of the decals, but that shark mouth is a right mess indeed! I think that painting them will come out far better than expect, as the decals are not even close to the proper shape, even the number of teeth is probably off. You can make it look great, and accurate by doing the design on your own. Airfix should be embarrassed by the mess they created. Keep your head up high, we have faith in your ability to get it right, even better actually. Cheers, Anthony
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