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About Stalker6Recon

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  1. Yes and no. Not sure where/when this was taken, but it does show the typical uniform mismatch with body armor. This style of flak jacket is old old old school, if you wear one to a battle, I pity you. The newer vest that we had circa 2003, had a total coverage front flap, which then held the ceramic plates, the ones that actually stop bullets. At that time, it may have been supply issues, order issues or some other problem in the chain. All the vests we got were the ballistic type, and all of them were in the woodland colors. Whether accidental, or by design, the mismatched armor actually gave the soldiers better visual results, breaking up their shape against the terrain. Probably some supply clerk will claim purposeful ordering, when the truth likely is based on the supply issues, only having woodland vests during that time. This was the period when the US Army was transitioning to the short lived ACU, which was more like pajamas than a battle ready uniform. Even the closures were all velcro. Anyone that has tried to be silent, and had to pee, knows how loud ripping open a freshly made fly is. I don't know if the latest Army uniforms have rid themselves of all the velcro closures, I sure hope so. Buttons are silent, and when silence matters, that's what you want when pee time eventually arrives. Depending on your job, you have to keep and carry out your waste with you, another fun fact. Try pooping into an MRE bag, then rolling it up and sticking it in your ruck. Cheers, Anthony
  2. I don't know about the rest of you guys, but I keep waiting for blood to shoot out of his arm sockets, and the screaming to start (regarding the last photo of the soldier facing the camera). This is 35th scale, correct? Phenomenal work! I am curious, did you intend for the flak jacket to be different in appearance against the BDU's (battle dress uniform for those who need to know)? This change of color/saturation from the uniform, adds tremendously to the realism. Unlike the uniform, the flak jacket (grrrrr, autospell has been changing flak to flack, annoying) spends most of its life, building up dirt, oil and other contaminants without much cleaning. Since a Joe can't throw it in a washing machine, it pretty much doesn't get cleaned. Every once in a blue moon, it might be washed off via hose and bar soap, but that's about it. These were thankfully replaced with actual ballistic vests with SAPI inserts, making the flak jacket obsolete and used primarily for training only. At least that was my experience with them, maybe some jobs still require that over the ballistic vest, but I can't think of one. If anyone knows, please let me know. Its good to be back, albeit probably on a limited basis, Anthony
  3. Wow brother, that looks AMAZING! No matter how long it takes to apply, it can't be any longer than painting by freehand to the same results, probably even longer. These decals are extremely accurate, both in color and pattern. They probably even sell cold weather pattern and warm weather. While the pattern is the same on both, the material of the cold always looked darker than the warm. While it was against regulations to mix your uniform, it was never enforced, because half the time, we lacked the inventory to have matching sets, which is embarrassing. During the early 2000's, we would were desert patter uniforms, which were the same pattern, just the tan/brown colors. We had woodland vests, both flack vests and ballistic vests, this helped break up our body at distances, making the whole pattern more effective. Something to consider for anyone doing US Army patterns in the mid 90's until 2005. Cheers mate, it really is gorgeous! Anthony
  4. That's an understatement my friend, she looks great! So am I correct, did the kit skip these details (t-locks, commander intercooler box, that awesome pull chain for the troop compartment, all the other details made from white plastic)? Or did you just replace the kit parts because they were inferior? Cheers, Anthony
  5. As a novice model builder, but a professional painter in my time, I recommend you wait on the fix for a few days, just to allow the paints to fully harden. That way, when you sand the area, the new tape won't damage the finish. Plus, it might be a nice look if you find the panel lines where the damage is, and repaint the panels just like a repair on the real aircraft. Then it would not matter if the repaint is different, it would actually add to the realism. That said, the subtle differences do show up in the pictures, just enough to allow everyone to understand what you were going for, and accident or not, you nailed it. She looks great! Cheers, Anthony
  6. Reminds me of a guy that makes his own swatches with every new paint he puts on his paint shelf. If memory serves, he sprays one half, and hand paints the other, just so he can see the actual color as painted. Not a bad idea at all. This guy has the ability to build 1:1 scale, flying models. Many of us mere mortals, can't afford to build 1:48 scale plastic models, this site is just a vulgar display of unending wealth! Even though I am green with envy, I will check out their site, no matter how miserable it makes me feel. A true master class that proves this "if they don't make the version you want oob, then make your own!" I have forgotten how much I learned from that WIP, thanks again, Mr. Ed Anthony
  7. Looking at how it turns, via those skid steer levers, that's nuts! At least the Bradley has a car style setup, gas, brakes, even a steering wheel. The only abnormal aspect to driving it, is the pivot steer mechanism. If memory serves, it reverses which ever side you want to turn too, so when pivoting right, the right tracks go in reverse, while the left go forward, makes for a fun and nauseating ride. And like driving, the more gas you give it, the faster she spins! Fun fun fun! Anthony
  8. Sorry for the late reply, been away from the forums/model building while trying to get through some financial problems. Anyway, I am new to modeling, so my point of view is limited. I can say that the Hasegawa scriber are far better and thinner than the Tamiya set I have. That said, I am pretty sure that Tamiya makes thinner models, I just didn't know better when I bought mine. The Hasegawa also has teeth that my eyes can't see, I had to feel the edges to find which side was intended to cut, this is a good thing, since making scale panel lines is difficult, smaller kerf means closer to realism. I know the feeling when it comes to pin vise scribers, I have had no luck with that method, the pin always jumps out and makes a new gouge. Maybe with practice, it might work, but so far it's been a mess. The other good thing with the saws, they don't jump the way a pin does, and you can follow a hard edge fairly easily, so far, I am sold. I will definitely try other methods since I am so new, but you won't be wrong to have a set of these in your tool box. If you look at my work (stalled unfortunately) on the F-15A, I used the Hasegawa scribers to cut the ailerons and flaps, which are molded together in place, and the tiny gap creates is tighter than a piece of paper, only the plastic between the wing parts was removed, I was extremely happy with the results. Back on topic, things are looking good considering how bad the fit is with this kit. All caught up again, hopefully I will have the motivation to stay online since a new month is close, and hopefully my money problems will be a bit lower this time around. Cheers, Anthony
  9. Interesting to see the different plumbing between the types, glad you have them both to show where the rubber hits the road, very nice sets indeed. Cheers, Anthony
  10. Where did you get those CNC drill bits? Do you like them? I keep seeing them online for just a few dollars, but have held off ordering them, not sure if they are worth the effort. They are much cheaper than model specific micro bits, and come in sets of ten. I need the mid range set, 1-2mm. This month I may just buy a set for sh&ts and giggles. Cool details all over the place, really shows where the kits fail miserably in their detail areas. They probably hope that those who build their kits, never actually worked with the real versions just for that reason. 9 times out of 10, they would be right. Not today though. Looking good mate! Anthony
  11. One of the funnest aspects of driving a track vehicle. I remember the Bradley could do pretty fast pivot turns, enough to make you nauseous , especially those in the turret. Just for historical pleasure, anyone that wants to see a skilled armor group working together in urban areas, look at the syrian military ops on YouTube. Getting that kind of close quarters skill is very difficult and takes lots of practice. Their years at fighting the civil war has made them a formidable fighting force. Anyone that has driven armor, using only the periscope style blocks, knows how to w hard it really is. It's like driving your car while looking thru a straw! Blind spots make up about 80% of your view. Having a talented commander, who has a much better view and able to give precise commands regarding movement, really helps. My bet is that future drivers will use elevated cameras that give an almost video game style view, will be coming soon. But learning to drive with those blocks will always be required skills, no matter how bad it sucks. Cheers, Anthony
  12. WOW! that's all I can say anymore!
  13. Just out of curiosity, did they even try to make these parts, or did the kit have nothing to represent this mechanism? Also, probably already done, but that German made boat/aircraft wire might make nice belts for the motor. Looking forward to the camo decals, I am not sure if I mentioned it, but one reason the color may also be different, the colors were in fact different between cold weather BDU's and warm weather BDU's. The cold weather gear had deeper colors, and washed out slower than the warm weather gear. Cheers, Anthony
  14. Just out of curiosity as the noob, I wonder if the surface prep can be the evil in this mix. Seems to me, there are no limits to the combination of paints, clears and solutions that, in theory, would effect a decal. Maybe this is one of those situations where the top coat caused the problem, and the solution exasperated the situation? I have no idea what is true and correct, and I have seen no amount of varied results by modelers, some pro brand, others absolutely against a brand based on individual results. This of course leads to no confidence among the new guys, worried that we will foul up our decals out of sheer fear and inexperience. this guy And it looks pretty more than good to the rest of us as well! What a beauty! Cheers, Anthony PS. Those empty rocket rails look rather menacing, or is it just me? Also, funny thing those roundels, in most cases, we want the decals to look like paint, and in this instance, the paint looks like decals that look like paint! Is that a double positive? Double negative? Either way, they are perfect
  15. She's gorgeous! It's a race weekend at Silverstone, not much internet, and even less modeling being done. Watching all this MotoGP racing, makes me want to build the Marquez HRC Tamiya kit, and replace the 93 with 99 from an aftermarket decal sheet. But that is future dreaming to be sure. Thanks for the pics, those are nice. Considering my circumstances, I could start painting with the airbrush with just a couple of unknowns that likely need to be filled. One, something to lube the o-rings in my airbrush, I have a feeling that they are dry as a grandmothers scalp. Second, finding a retarder or alternative. I would love to make my own, but the ingredients have proved elusive. Cheers, Anthony
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