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Everything posted by Niknak

  1. Hi reini,The vs 111 prop was made of wood. Nick
  2. Hi peter, the main reason is .The hasegawa fuselarge is not deep enough against the drawings were as the airfix fuselarge measures out ok, also the hasegawa oil cooler is a scale foot to shallow .and as it will be next to the airfix ju 87 b-2 i did in the mt0 gb 2018 the differance will show up . also the d-1/3 had the short span wing were as the hasegawa ju 87 g has the long span wing.I think it's easier to change the nose and cockpit canopie. and add the underwing radiators , and modify the tail surports.. Nick
  3. Hi all, as my eduard bf 109 g- 6's are about finished I'll start my ju 87. I have found out the kagero ju 87 d plans are wrong the length of the aircraft by their plans is 38 ft long where as it should be 36 ft long.i think this because kagero in their ju 87 d/g vol 1 on page 68 they have the length at 11.5 m not 11.1m . So I'll be double checking the rest of their measurements against the 1/72 drawings in the classic publications ju 87 book. I have tried the hasegawa nose on the airfix fuselarge s as sergested by basilisk, and found the oil cooler is a scale foot to shallow but the length is correct. If I use the hasegawa nose I'll have to mate the italieri oil cooler to the hasegawa nose. Or shorten and reprofile the italeri nose which should be easier as Ray did with his d - 5 build. I have cut 4mm of the rear of the copy of the italeri nose to get the length of the aircraft 36 ft. And started to reprofile the forward nose. I will have to narrow the rear of the nose to match the airfix fuselarge by about. 5 mm. The way I'll do this is by cutting a long the centre of the top and oil cooler and glue them together. And I have started to paint the Aires cockpit and parts of the airfix cockpit. I extended the cockpit sill of the Aires side walls using resin. I spayed a black under coat before a coat of rlm 66. Thank you for looking. Nick
  4. Hi Ray should be posting a update soon. I hit a issue with the build. The kagero drawing aren't 1/48 t. If you measure the dimensions of the drawings they measure 38 " so I'll be using the 1/72 drawings in classic publications ju 87 book and scaling them up using my 1/72 and 1/48 scale rules. Nick
  5. There coming on nicely. That's what I'm planing to do with the cockpit of my airfix conversion to a d-1/3. Using bits of the airfix with an Aires cockpit. Nick
  6. Excellent work there Ray! Glade to be able to help. Nick
  7. Hi Ray it looks like it the vs 111. Nick
  8. It's looking good. Just one thing Ray. The vs 11 prop was used on the b and up to the early d-3. From the late d-3 on over the ju 87 used the vs 111 prop. According to my references. Nick
  9. Hi Peter I'm starting with the italeri kit as I haven't been into the loft to find my hasegawa ju 87. Course I'm too lazy. Hi Ray the d was slightly longer at 11.10 m were as the b was 11.m long if my references are correct Here is the d nose taped onto the airfix fuselarge placed over the kagero drawings. Nick
  10. Hi Ray, thank's Ray i'll have a look at the photo when you post it. i have a squadron ju 87 d/g vac canopie which should fit or be made to fit. I have not tried it yet thou .the resin pieces in the bag are pieces of the italeri ju 87 g kit i copied . . i'm not sure if i'll use the spinner of the italeri kit or borrow one from a hasegawa kit. As the nose profile behind the spinner looks wrong . might be the spinner which is too small ? Rather than the nose profile?. Nick
  11. Hi all for this ju 87 group build, I am planing to build a ju 87 d-1/3. Using the airfix ju 87 b-2 kit and cross kitting it with the italeri ju 87 g. And possibly bits copied from the hassegawa g kit. Some of the references used will be
  12. Niknak

    Antb's 2019

    great builds there. Antb
  13. HiHi all these are my builds for this year.. Fw 190 s converted from tamya's f-8. 1/48 Revell's ju 88 c-6 6(eis) kg3 1/72 (aims decals) Ju 88 g-1 ii/njg 2 1944. 1/72 (Revell's ju 88 a-4 conversion) Eduard's fw 190 d-11 jg 101. 1/48 Eduard's Fw 190 d-9 jv 44 1/48 Fw 190 d-11 jv 44 (tamya conversion) 1/48 Meng's me 410 b-2 u2/r2 2./zg 26. 1944. 1/48 Thank you for looking. And happy modeling. Nick
  14. Super work there Dennis. You have put me to shame this year. Nick
  15. Thank you Mike, to be honest the base is really easy to build. It just mdf covered with grass mat with dyed coffee stures cut to size for the boards. Nick
  16. Thank you Joachim, i'm toying with the idea of adding a ground power unit and a work platform made using barrels and planks of wood. Nick
  17. Thank you Adam, yip. We may get one someday. Nick
  18. Thank you Toryu. the mottle is airbrushed using a Badger 200 sg with a fine tip fitted. Nick
  19. I have used 10 thou plastic card for the leading edge slat suports The gun packs have been added also The entry step will be made from strips of plastic card. The blind landing aproch airel will be replaced with copper wire. This will finish this build as the radio airel will be made from streached sprue and fitted after its on its base. Thank you for looking. Nick
  20. This is my build of mengs me 410 b2/u2/r2. In the markings of 3U+CK of 2./zg 26. While based at Konigsberg-Neumark in the summer of 1944 The following aftermarket items were used Aires. - resin cockpit. Vector. - corrected oilcoolers. The following Quickboost. - ju 88 c/g 151 20mm gun barrels (under fuselarge gun pack). Ju 88 mg 151 20 mm gunbarrels (internal gun pack). Me 410 spinners & propellers. The following lead wire. 2mm,. 4mm,. 6mm. (engine & cockpit details & brake lines). Streached sprue was used for the radio aireal Extracolor enamels were used for the following rlm colours. - 02, 66, 74, 75, 76, Humbrol were used for the rest. A Badger 200 g was used with a fine tip. For the weathering the following was used. - Mrp. - exhaust soot Pastels Ak. - aircraft engine effects I enjoyed this build but! (I did a wip of this build) and would build another I had a couple of issues 1.the lower port wing joint needed filled with a plastic shim 2. The biggest issues were with the canopie. If you fit the nose glazing to the fuselarge the main canopie is too wide for the fuselarge. So I fitted the main conopie to the fuselarge so it fitted. Then used plastic card to pack out the nose glazing to fit the wider fuselarge. Also the conopie is on the thick side so I also had an issue fitting it round the rear aiming controls This is the detail I added to the gun/bomb bay(which is mostly hidden by the gun pack) Thank you for looking, comments and feed back is welcomed. Nick
  21. Hi all this up date starts with a back track... I assumed the radiator flaps were the same as the bf 109. I was wrong. When I tried to fit them thay wouldn't fit extended. So after some more research. I found a few videos of the flaps beening deployed then retracted from the rear. In the videos the inner side of the flaps are connected to the end of the main flap. Ahhh. So I cut the part from the radiator sides and used 10 " plastic card to make them and fitted them to the flaps After these were fitted to the flaps and spayed. The flaps were taped retracted to the wing, then the exhaust stains were sprayed on using mrp smoke. The flaps were then glued to the wings in the deployed possision. The radiator flaps have had a shampher added so thay can be dropped to match the main flaps. I have replaced the trim Activision rods with copper wire ready for touching up. The rear mg 151 have been fitted to the fusalarge slightly depressed to match the controls Also I have started to weather the airframe using ak's aircraft engine set. Using 10/0 & 5/0 brushs Thank you for looking. Comments and feed back is welcomed. Nick
  22. Thanks antb. I think the rlm 75 after the varnish coat has gone too dark tho. But it's getting there.
  23. Yip, I took me awhile to decide which version to build myself.
  24. Thanks Greg, spirals are easier to do now you can get tape that's designed to curve. Nick
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