Ade H

I excluded Tank from the search filters because its sculpts are nowhere near to the quality of my suggestions. Nor is MiniArt (see my first comment). The better the sculpt, the easier it is to paint. The criticism of copy-casters is justified, but there are plenty of reputable specialists to be found, including SK Miniatures, FOG Models, El Greco, and Historex.

More?! Those two alone probably account for more Soviet releases than most other figure producers combined. OK... Try this lot. I've filtered the options down to reflect my recommendations, but you can play with them to find even more.

Ah, I see. That's totally fine in that case, especially as you don't have much choice about when to use HS chipping!

Hi Doggy. Good Christmas, I hope? About the washable paint, it doesn't matter, technically. It should be no different to using washable agent or semi-erasable paint. All that really matters is: Allow every paint step to cure. Apply each step in the order which makes sense (which is easier if you work back from what you want the finish to look like); only "seal" things which you know need it; and if you don't know something, test it first. You already have the products, I assume, so grab the paint mule... You mentioned that you've already "chipped it", which I assume is on the base colour, yes? If you did sponge-and-brush chipping, you may have gone too soon. Some of your work will be covered by whitewash and weathering; and some chips would be clean, so it makes no sense to hide them all under the same layers of weathering. Chips happen gradually over time, like most types of weathering, but many modellers ignore that and make it all look the same, as if it happened in one second. Just advice for the future.

All of those companies would almost certainly only produce injection-molded figures. Meh. I can recommend Evolution and Stalingrad, to name just two.

Hello @nick. Thanks very much for replying. I haven't any photos of my own, so I'll just link to a couple of the better ones that I found. If it would help to have some photos of the kit parts, let me know and I'll be happy to oblige. https://www.termignoni.it/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/D129_Superbike-1-01.jpg https://www.forza-moto.com/upload/photo/orig_img-5597-32.jpg https://smgmedia.blob.core.windows.net/images/113420/1024/ducati-1199-panigale-ddf65be0b8c6.jpg If you are interested in making a set and it would be viable for you to do, that would be brilliant. 😃

@veg There is no way in which a mere mortal could scratch satisfactory replicas from styrene. They are almost completely different from the road exhausts with some complex forms and details. Even the retaining straps have intricate cutouts. @Stef N. They could be printed by someone with the design foo. I'm strictly a 2D designer and I haven't the time to invest in 3D. I wish that I did, because it's already revolutionising this hobby. I did wonder whether @nick of Unobtainium, and gold-winning F40 engine fame, might be interested in producing some if there's a market for them. Me and you would buy some, right? 😉

Long shot, this, I admit. I've tried searching for aftermarket Termignoni exhausts for the Tamiya Ducati Panigale; but I've found nothing other than Hobby Design's very expensive full-fat detail set, which includes them. Anyone with an interest in alternative decal schemes for this bike, like the R Corse in my case, would want these pipes. Even a lot of the Tricolores have them in photos.

I've stated it before, but I'll state it again: if Vallejo primer "peels" when sanded, the modeller has done something wrong, either in preparation, application, or sanding. If I made Youtube videos, I would gladly demonstrate how to use it.

Actually, I was just suggesting some items which may be of interest for future builds. If you want to replace Tamiya's screws on this model, I don't know, but I would be a bit wary of that. Surely, it would need screws which happen to be a snug fit for holes which are now worn by the originals, unless you're happy to glue the bodywork where any replacement screws may prove to be too loose.

@Das Abteilung and @JackG Thanks, chaps, for taking the time to write. Very informative as always and it's very much appreciated. Peter, especially, your level of knowledge always blows my mind! If anyone has any photos of Fireflys which may be interesting, and buildable with this kit, by all means share them. Markings aren't a problem, as I have loads of Archer sets and any unique IDs/names can easily be designed and cut in vinyl.

I’m making RFM’s Vc Firefly and I’ve had to pause early because of so many unexplained optional parts. With the help of the usual websites and a couple of books, I’ve trimmed a very long list down to the following questions: - Which track type does the kit represent? I can’t narrow it down precisely. - Tow bar: Is it really correct to fit the mounting brackets for both types? Which bar is most common? - Two styles of cover on the machine gun port — low with a wide top, or higher and narrower. - Gun travel lock: Should it be mounted centrally or offset? On the engine cover or on the smaller panel behind it (as in official sketches)? The manual shows two positions, but I found at least three in photos. - Four options for MG supports on the commander’s hatch — see photo below. - Two types of searchlight — one possibly representing a shroud. - A step, about 2mm deep, runs around the base of the turret from either side of the mantlet. Should this be fixed? I can't see it in photos or on other kits. - If the sunshield rail brackets are omitted, should their mounting points (D24) be omitted, too? If you know of any clear photos of vehicles which can be built with this kit, please share them if you can. I’m struggling for inspiration with this one. I’ve mostly found very low-res photos, often showing some feature which the kit doesn’t have, e.g. different tracks, track-link armour, etc. Instructions can be viewed at https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/9/3/2/1253932-20-instructions.pdf

If they are used properly, each with their respectively very different techniques, both of those products are very good. My only relatively minor complaint with Stynilrez is that it is a proper pig to clean out. As it has no particular advantage to compensate, I rarely use it. I carry out HS chipping and paint scrubbing over Vallejo and Mission Models polys and they work very well. And yes, they can be sanded. It still bemuses me what people must be doing to them to claim that they are not good enough. Applying them wrong? Too heavy-handed in handling? Not allowing curing? I just don't know. An example of HS chipping and abrasion over Vallejo poly:

Are you thinking of those real tiny screws or rivets, the sort of thing which needs a hole drilled if there isn't one already? I think I would prefer flat photo-etch for tiny fasteners because they can fit right into Tamiya's recessed details where decals are usually used and they can sometimes be placed directly over the kit's screws if they are recessed far enough. Raised details are more easily replaced as well. Here are several sets which I've purchased for bikes: Top Studio 0.6mm-1.3mm Photoetched Nuts in two styles -- round TD23041 and hex TD23040 (I was very impressed with these and I'd recommend them). Top Studio 0.7-1.3mm Washers TD23107 Scalelab Models (not to be conflated with Scalelab 24) Dzus Fasteners SLM12003 (Also very impressed, but they have a specific use for racing bikes). Hobby Design 1:12 / 1:24 Hexagonal Bolts HD02-0019 (Not as refined as the others and a bit more fiddly because they use two parts).

Looking at photos of worn whitewash and comparing it to HS finishes by the likes of Philip Stutcinskas and Mike Rinaldi, I'd say that they match very well. But be sure to tell them that they are wrong. 😉

Not sure that I've ever seen those @slippers. There is/was a set for Martini, which I think would need different [and probably unavailable] wheels to be accurate, and there's the 1199R set, which would need slicks [also unobtainable, probably] and appears to have one or two detail changes. I've been tempted to buy either, perhaps even both, if I could overlook what can't be altered.

I've just found Ammo by Mig 198 Gold at the back of a drawer, and that may be an acceptable colour. I'm not keen on the Ammo metals though, as their quality was very variable (hence their place at the back!) and they are really just metallics as opposed to metals, if you see what I mean.

I have Metal Color gold, specifically, but I didn't suggest it because it has a slight pale greenish tint so assume that it's not a match. It's almost certainly not intended or suitable for car colours.

No, Malcolm, not really. It's called "how browsers work".

Oh, he's talking about an Esprit? My hopes, briefly raised, are once again dashed. 😪 @Malc2 The title is out of sight when clicking through from a notification.

I can't answer your question, Guenther, at least certainly not without knowing something about the real colour. But I wanted to ask you if you have any info or ref number for that kit. I always thought that no manufacturer has ever made an Elise kit and nothing is coming up in searches. I would love to find one.

The first thing which came to my mind was the Flying Leathernecks ones. Are they not the right type? I know that they are empty, which may be disappointing, or not a problem. Sorry, I don't know the reference number off-hand.

That's really pretty good over all. You did very well with the decals on the bodyshell; you made the wheel rim decals fit (I gave up on them); and you had the resoluteness to drill all those disc vent holes (I copped out and used a wash). I see that you got that same gap in the "bird's beak" tail as I did, which is a relief to me because I always thought that it was 100% my error. I mean, Tamiya kits are not supposed to have fit problems, right? I ended up wicking thin CA into it and clamping it very firmly, with only some success. I've just ordered two more 1199s with the intention of, hopefully, improving on my previous shortcomings. If I may give you a tip, though, extreme macros are good at showing overlooked mold seams. 😉 But once again: good work.

@JackG Oh, I see. Panzers all seem alike to me, Jack! 😉

If it was my subject, I would probably wait for the Border Model kit (or a later release if the first version is not what you want).