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Ade H

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Everything posted by Ade H

  1. Knowing WWII German beauraucracy, I expect that the stamping may have come about according to which command ordered them: possibly, OKW (Oberkommando der Wehrmacht) had some responsibility in that area. I'm not certain. Regarding the middle valve, it could possibly have been an inspection valve. Just off the top of my head, though, that thought. Barrels for alcohol typically have such a thing, though for slightly different reasons! Addendum: I just had another look at those photos at Missing Lynx and I can see one soldier using some device on the middle valve, but I'm not sure what he's doing.
  2. Jack, I have a bookmarked thread from MM which may well be of use to you. http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=67842 Be sure to check the links posted by Alan McKenzie in his post on page 2: the first one, especially, has some photos of barrels being used. You should also find the main point of the discussion very useful for accuracy. Incidentally: Wehrmacht means armed forces; Heer means army.
  3. Welcome, Matt. Bikes are tricky to do well; or I find so anyway, but I'm picky. When I'm not dealing with tracks, wings, or off-road wheels, I hang around with the vehicles lot, and you're welcome to ask whatever you want to know and one of us civilians will surely help.
  4. Welcome. There are a lot of Antipodean members, so you should feel right at home. I hope that whiffs means something else in Oz
  5. Ade H

    IBG SCAMMELL

    Chassis: yes. Engine: no. It was a 6-cyl Gardner LW, by the way, just in case you want to research it. The chassis obviously left the factory in regulation finish, which altered by date (and the Scammells were produced for long enough to have had a colour change or two). I understand that in-theatre repaints were supposed to cover everything remotely visible, chassis included. Whether they were thorough at all times, I can't say. At which theatre and date are you aiming?
  6. I'll assume that you didn't have a particular date in mind then.
  7. Ade H

    Hello!

    This is my mantra, which I often say to myself whenever I try something new. Always test it first; always test it first. Do as I say, not necessarily as I do... but I mostly take my own advice!
  8. Ade H

    Hello!

    Oh, that's just like the rear of the pilot's bulkhead in my Hellcat Mk.I... My latest SNAFU to which I alluded was, thankfully, redeemable just in time! I've been working on a HobbyBoss TBF-1 for a while and it's a bit weak in some areas. The turret gun is soft and there's nothing for it in the Eduard cockpit set. I know, I thought, I can use that spare RB Model M2 barrel. Easy. Well, I was just about to prime the assembly when it dawned on me exactly why that barrel was a bit longer and such a snug fit in the turret glazing. I don't own a 1/48th .50cal M2 barrel! I did, however, possess a 1/35th .303 M2 barrel left over from an M3 Stuart...
  9. Ade H

    Hello!

    Welcome/wilkommen/bienvenue/etc. Good to see that you've added your first name because it feels far more polite and friendly to address someone as Mat rather than Fish! I was going to start a thread with a good confession of a recent recurrence of rabbit-brain syndrome, but I figured that the topic has been done many times before.
  10. No, I think that I probably had about the right adjective. If I have interpreted your description correctly, a GB could have enough interest and still not happen because some other people vetoed it. The mention of a calendar seems odd: surely, these things are not discrete events which cannot happen concurrently?
  11. I can confirm that, unfortunately, polyurethane seems to be only partially effective. I found my old AFVC tracks and tested one. The primer bends and stretches well, but must be handled gently because it can be scratched off as though it hadn't cured.
  12. I'm quite confused by some aspects of the group builds here. I've not encountered the concept before. I expressed interest in one, but the member who initiated it hasn't visited the forum since June and I'm left doubting whether it will go ahead. The whole GB thing seems to be quite vague, for want of a better word, and I'm not comfortable with vagueness.
  13. No point in anyone posting an RFI now. You killed it. And there's an Italeri kit under there?!
  14. I've had a Char 2C taking pride of place (and the best part of a shelf to itself) for a little while, but at a mere foot long, maybe it's not quite impressive enough! I've always wanted to add the tail which these tanks tended to carry, but the options seem to be buying a Niko resin kit directly from Poland or scratch-building one. I don't mind which I do, but one may be expensive and the other seems beyond me without data. So, do you know whether the Niko kit is available from anyone in Britain? Alternatively, have you ever seen plans (or at least measurements) for the tail?
  15. Don't ask... I'm still trying to find the perfect balance. But it's different for almost every kit which I've built, and that does not help me or anyone else to provide a single answer. It's easier for an aircraft than it is for, say, an artillery tractor with exposed chassis, engine, etc. Bikes may be the worst because all of the sub-assemblies will be on show and therefore every aspect of the finish is critical. Sometimes, I judge each sub-assembly to perfection; sometimes not, ending up either with too many fiddly small sections to paint and join or awkward shapes which are difficult to even airbrush to 100% coverage. Glue has been a question for me, too. If airbrushed mating surfaces can't be scraped or sanded, I usually resort to superglue/CA for a clean and reasonably strong joint, but I was thinking of covering mating surfaces with a bit of liquid mask when I recognise that they will be tricky or critical.
  16. You need a cunning plan. I can't give a prescriptive answer because once you settle on what works for you, it may not be what works for me (or is beginning to) or anyone else. So your best options for materials to try out would be either: A mix of oils, such as dark brown and dark orange shades; preferably translucent rather than opaque. Similar acrylic wash colours (or make your own washes in a pinch) combined variously with gloss medium and satin varnish. Thinned enamels, along the same lines. Or ready-made enamel oil stains from, for example, Wilder or AK. But in all cases, what matters for a natural appearance is to avoid using just one colour or product (they just disappointed me when I tried that) and just one level of sheen. And make sure to combine it (though not necessarily mix it) with pigments to represent the dirt which gets caught in grease/oil/fuel. It wasn't until I tried these two methods that I began to be reasonably happy with my experimentation for oil or fuel stains. There's no substitute for practising.
  17. There certainly are several variables and differing experiences, but surely no-one would need a .5mm to spray Model Air, even when neat. My HPCS handles it easily c.15-18psi. From day one, I felt more comfortable with it than any other type.
  18. Well, there's no need for that, Mike.
  19. I'm thinking of switching over to Mexican jumping beans. No need to shake...
  20. Looks like nobody else knows either, Steve. I had to fiddle around a bit with the settings to get them to my liking. Scroll down to the second section at http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/notifications/options/. Make sure that every category is either included (or excluded) as you want it from site notifications (first column) and e-mail (2nd column). Hope that helps.
  21. Yeah, you had me a little bit worried for a moment back there in your WIP thread, Lloyd. I nearly regretted mentioning the lack of casting texture! I was thinking maybe either Mr. Surfacer or some type of texture paint. Good to see that it turned out well.
  22. No need for two Jack. I don't think I've even put two in the 60ml flip-top bottles and they mix alright. Edit: Mike, was never able to find anything suitable in glass. The nearest that I got were some sort of cheap gemstone beads, but they were far too lightweight.
  23. Shaun, that's really kind of you, mate. I'll do that. Thanks very much! PS. You might have two messages -- the message window was acting weird.
  24. So are several things, none of which should be jarred and sold.
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