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Ade H

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Everything posted by Ade H

  1. Oh dear, there's always one wag with a crack.
  2. Hi Laurie. What is it about your current glue that you don't like? I guessed that you meant Deluxe Roket, so I looked it up and it seems to be well liked. Anyway, if you fancy trying an another make, I can recommend Bob Smith Industries, which can be bought directly from the importer. I really like them. The nozzles are long and precise, but don't clog, the caps are snug, and they last much longer than some (e.g. Zap). My favourite is the rubberised type, which has a few benefits. For example, I just joined two halves of a Ducati's fuel tank with it, knowing that I can sand it perfectly smooth and it won't sink and produce a ghost seam. I can't recommend a kicker, as I've never tried one; when humidity is very low, breathing heavily on the glue join seems to help. As for rigging, maybe I'll need to work that one out if I succumb to Eduard's new Camel...
  3. What's the theatre? Are you an oil or water guy? I can probably give you a step-by-step, but I'd need to know what look you want and what materials you like to use. P.S. Is this a Morris C8 or a modern vehicle with the same nickname? Only somewhat relevant.
  4. I learned from watching Milan Dufek. He uses oil over water-based, which suits me and makes it easier.
  5. Would a contact adhesive be sticky enough for making trees? It's supposed to be sprayed onto both surfaces and pressed together. I've tried using 3M Photo Mount to apply flocking powder and realised that I had bought the wrong thing for the job as it just wasn't sticky enough.
  6. Luke Towan uses Kwik Grip, which (I just checked) is available in Britain. I figure that if something is good enough for him, it should be good enough for the rest of us mere mortals.
  7. Although I'm definitely no fan of Airfix, I think that it remains a valuable brand which serves a vital part of the market. The existence of this thread is an example of why that matters. However, I'm not confident that it will continue to be relevant when its current core fanbase is no longer around. A couple of younger relatives have expressed some interest in my hobby with a caveat that they can't see anything which is designed for them. Spitfires and panzers are unknown to them; game and film franchises are what they love. If they are at all representative of a potential future of modelling, Hornby seems not to have noticed yet. The question of detail or not, expensive or not, is not a black-and-white case of either/or. For now at least, there is enough room in this market for all approaches. I think that it's wrong (and arguably unfair) to conflate a demand for more detail with an over all rise in prices; see the many other reasons already discussed. It's also falsified by examples of good value yet detailed kits and expensive yet comparatively simplistic kits. The reasons for their different prices must be things other than mere detail. Detail is, of course, relevant to value judgements. I try to assume good faith when looking at an expensive but not especially detailed kit -- perhaps it is sophisticated in other ways -- but I admit to having a more charitable view of a high price if there is tangibly a lot of detail packed into a big box. I'm influenced by those manufacturers which are not necessarily the cheapest, but always offer a lot of kit for a sensible price.
  8. You say "only", but 1cm seems to be quite deep for any resin which is not an epoxy. Because they cure in the atmosphere (I think that they may rely on humidity, to be more exact) they are only intended for much shallower applications, being built up slowly in layers of a few millimetres. Vallejo's advice for still water is to apply layers of no more than 3mm at a time. It's convenient, safer, and it should work for what you want (including the little fish), if you can give the process enough time. I believe that these products can also be tinted like epoxies, but I have not tried that.
  9. What you have written there is well thought out and absolutely valid. I count myself lucky that I can afford whatever I want for this hobby because I'm only too aware that some people don't have that luxury. I've always been self employed and I've not forgotten what it was like to have some month left at the end of the money! So I won't think badly of anyone who complains about the price of anything because we all have a right to express that; and there are bound to be some things which I'd like to buy but either can't afford, can't justify, or just think are overpriced. It's only a matter of scale.
  10. Simon, if you dig around deeply enough on this Dingo Scout Car history site, you may well find out more than you ever wanted to know. The information architecture isn't exactly user friendly, but there are various unit histories and a document of WD vehicle numbers with their dates, units, etc.
  11. Occasionally, some of my models will be "displayed" sticking up half-out of a bin. Of course, it's quite a small display area, so there has to be some rotation involving older "display" items being retired. But it doesn't occupy much floor space.
  12. Mark, if you never (very absolute there) pre-shade, do you inter-shade or post-shade? OPR? Not judging; just curious. Dunc, to answer your question. Um, I can't really answer it, because why would there be a single process?! Even those people who only paint DAK panzers or Spitfires would be seriously hampering their progression and creativity (if they have any...) if they really use just one process. It depends upon so many factors: top colours, intended finished appearance, subject and theatre, intended weathering process, etc. How long is a piece of string? "WW2 aircraft" is to say the least a very broad category, so it cannot possibly be treated with one mindset. I could write a long essay... but I'm not going to. So I'll just give you two tips: avoid too much contrast between the base and top-coat colours so that whatever shading is needed will be easy to achieve; and never base white with grey because it is actually harder to cover than black.
  13. The only scientific knowledge which I can give you is to be wary of the term "acrylic". It is really just an adjective for a paint in a polymeric binder of some kind, so it covers a huge range of types, including water-based polyurethane and resin paints, but doesn't tell us very much at all about its chemical make-up, compatibility, or behaviour. As I make quite a few civilian automotive kits, I just have blind faith that modern kits (last decade or so) from Tamiya, Aoshima, et al. have a "rubber" material which is durable enough for display and has no reaction with bare polystyrene. Of course, I am far too young to have experienced such horrors... But I can't really address your main question. It's rare for me to even buy a military kit with squidgy black tyres or tracks; when I have, it was with the certainty that I would not be using them... Ordinarily, my solution is to test whatever it is and discover for myself whether it works (a policy which has saved several kits and a lot of effort from being wasted) but I appreciate that this is easier said than done when you probably have no spare tyre, nor indeed enough time to sit around waiting for nothing bad to happen. I think that you will have to go with your gut about this one and paint them or not as you think best.
  14. It is probably quite common to buff between coats, especially when intershading because it entails applying what is effectively several uneven layers of paint. But it needs the best possible quality of sanding material and one which is designed for paint; not a product for just any old sanding job such as bare plastic. Anything which is too stiff or hard edged is completely inappropriate; the quality control and type of the grit is absolutely critical. I prefer Infini sponge sheets and also MicroMesh Ultra Flex, in each case cut into small sections of no more than 1x3cm, sometimes narrower. It is also imperative to pay attention to airbrushing technique, as has already been mentioned. My preferred paint has a smooth, soft sheen finish when airbrushed properly, so I normally only want to buff it when intershading; but I know that some people struggle to get a good finish with it (for reasons which are unknown to me) so they may benefit from doing some remedial work (or improving their airbrushing, of course).
  15. When you already have the materials, the best way to know is to test it. I could tell you that it's fine, because it is for me, but I can't predict what your "unexpected weathering" may be.
  16. Yeah, I think that they have gone too black and very shiny. Mind you, I see quite a lot of aircraft modellers who seem to like their tyres that way.
  17. That would seem to be no different to marking out any straight line over a tapered/curved surface, so I will outline what I do for anything from invasion stripes to racing car schemes. If you can pick out nodes along the line, using surface details and/or measurements from other known points, mark these nodes with strips or triangles of tape, as many as necessary (once you have the key nodes picked out, you can easily add more inbetween), and then place the masking edge adjacent to them. The line is easiest to apply with a tape which bends just enough but does not stretch too readily, to avoid introducing errors between nodes. Leave vinyl tape for the sharpest curves, because it can distort during application; instead, use something like a 2 or 3mm tape or cut strips from masking sheet (the graph type is very handy) with a fresh blade. Trial, error, and experience will soon tell you what width is most suited to a given surface shape.
  18. I don’t get problems with masking tape ripping off paint either, even though as I hinted, I never wash (...the kit, I mean...) before construction because there should be nothing to remove from a modern molding. I wonder whether this old habit will soon fade away out of practicality in line with the increased occurence of small and delicate parts, because there's no way that I'd wash a modern AFV kit's runners, even if I thought that there was any point.
  19. I see that the box art highlights the inclusion of an "operator's interior". I may call it that from now on.
  20. I'm 99% certain that the UMP pencils are not wax because they look absolutely identical to generic Chinese-made white pencils (despite being about three times the cost) and they are not true wax pencils. A wax pencil has an obviously translucent yellow tip and very good tack, while the white pencils are almost useless in comparison. Just my tip for the day.
  21. @scotmid As I mentioned, as a general principle I find that it's a case of the better the sculpt, the easier it is to paint. It becomes almost like painting by numbers because all of the highs, mids, and lows are clearly defined for you. That's why I will always recommend new painters to choose the sharpest figures that they can find and the cost is more than justified.
  22. Ade H

    Weathering Armour

    I'm not sure whether this question is mostly about weathering generally (title), pin washes with oils, or clear coats. Anyway, it's not wise to put oils over a gloss layer, even a so-called pin wash. You will lose the fine gradation and control, in which case you may as well make do with enamels. And unless you have panel lines and other recesses which you intend to fill, seriously consider whether a pin wash is even appropriate, realistic (does dirt of a single colour really gather in little islands around all details with the same intensity? No), or even worthwhile (if using Oil Paint Rendering, subsequent work will supplant the pin wash). I rarely use them. But if I have not convinced you, go and watch some of Mr. Rinaldi's streams to learn how to apply oils without any clear coats. Incidentally: What's a Rad8?
  23. Neat carbon decals. I mean... very neat. I was wondering, though, are the leather seats as shiny as they look or is that mostly just a strong catchlight? Weirdly, that centre console looks a lot like the face of some robot from a '50s sci-fi film. I can't unsee that now!
  24. What would anyone be trying to wash off before construction? The silicone-free release agent which may be impregnated into modern polystyrene compounds? Because I'm confident that it's paintable (it's described so) and not removable, fairly obviously. Separate release agent should be obvious if you ever encounter it; but I wonder who's even using it now? I've never seen it on PS moldings, although I don't have any kits from the previous century... Granted, some plastics may feel a little bit weird and slippery despite no release agent residue (HobbyBoss, I'm looking at you) but washing doesn't improve that (I tried). Any concerns about grease and dust can be addressed as other respondents have suggested, or by using vinyl gloves or tips and a dusting brush. But in any case, the whole question of whether it matters can be answered, at least on a case by case basis, by testing with an unwanted part or a runner. Testing avoids a lot of problems. (By the way, I keep notifications off and rely on watching threads because of the excessive quoting. Too 'noisy' otherwise.)
  25. I excluded Tank from the search filters because its sculpts are nowhere near to the quality of my suggestions. Nor is MiniArt (see my first comment). The better the sculpt, the easier it is to paint. The criticism of copy-casters is justified, but there are plenty of reputable specialists to be found, including SK Miniatures, FOG Models, El Greco, and Historex.
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