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Ade H

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About Ade H

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  1. Well, whatever, but it's not in the copy of the catalogue which I have and it was removed from the model paints auxiliary section on the site.
  2. It may still be on sale somewhere, but as I said, it's not in the catalogue, so I could not find any instructions for it. Other than what the label advises, pretty much the only sources of instructions or info about it now would be to ask a stockist or, if they're not sure, contact Vallejo. I have done that before and it is responsive to questions.
  3. God, you're like a dog with a bone today, John. Maybe we are at cross purposes somewhere, but to be honest, I've other things on my mind (to put it mildly) and so I don't much care about which tank turned up when. Let's just put this one to bed and not fall out about it.
  4. Not according to my books, John. Are you sure that you're not mixing your mark numbers? I referred to the Cruiser Mk.II A10 Mk.Ia. These were used from 1940. Bear in mind that each A-number was a cruiser Mk.x and each of those had a sub-mark. And there's no kit of the first A13 yet as far as I know; just the sub-mark 1a and CS.
  5. I think that you would get on OK with either that or one of the Mengs without the interior. The only caveat that I can suggest, other than the cost if you can't find a deal, is that Takom would have you building the hull separately from the track sponsons and that needs careful alignment. I built it on one sponson as a jig. There are lots of wheels, of course, but that's just basic repetitive modelling. The tracks from both makers are superb (and probably where a lot of the money goes). Other options include the ancient Tamiya, which is not in the same class.
  6. What, the WWI Mk.IV? I could understand the Meng Mk.IV Male being possibly a bit fiddly given that it has an interior, but the others aren't. I have the Takom Tadpole and it's fairly simple. Meng and Takom do the best of these types and they're worth choosing if you can find one at a sensible price.
  7. My pleasure, Malc. Definitely get one of the Vulcan kits if you can (they can be had for sensible money if you keep an eye on eBay) but don't build it next if you've only done a couple. It's a nice kit all round but the suspension is fiddly and not very well engineered.
  8. I mentioned the A10, Kuro. As I said above, it may not strictly fit @malfisher's criteria anyway. The A13 certainly doesn't.
  9. I see, that's the old product to which I alluded yesterday. I believe that it's discontinued because it disappeared from the catalogue quite some time ago and the only poly varnishes are the Premiums.
  10. Crikey, that was quick, Lloyd. If only I could be as productive. Be honest, though; when did you "liberate" this from a tank museum and have they noticed the huge hole in their wall yet?
  11. They are certainly few and far between, Malc. And, as that was your very first posting, welcome to Britmodeller! If we have to be strict about the pre-1939 bit and the tank bit, I'm struggling. Assuming a preference for injection moulding and 1/35th, I can think of only one: the Vulcan Vickers Light Tank Mk.VI (in three versions, though I'm not sure whether all are still available). Bronco and Gecko are shortly to be making the A10 cruiser Mk.II; which was in service from 1940, but hey, that makes it a '30s design. Gecko also has the A9 on the way. But for earlier designs than these, I think that your wishes may be embarassingly under-served. Rather like the British Army was at the time...
  12. Lots of potential for rust effects on that one, Hans.
  13. I know what you mean there. I have to like a kit to really invest in it and for whatever reason, it's not always possible to fall in love with a project. Sometimes, they can feel like nothing but a difficult chore and that can risk knocking the enthusiasm altogether. That's one reason why I value variety a lot: cars/bikes, armour and softskins, aircraft... I have a lot of kits on the go (partly because I was starting builds before owning an airbrush and deliberately pausing when an airbrush would be necessary) and I flit between them. Probably too much, but it helps with my interest and with usage of time because when something needs to cure or a problems seems insurmountable, I get on a little further with another build. Some kits, like the one in my avatar pic, I just totally fall for from beginning to end and invest a crazy amount of hours in. They make it all worthwhile.
  14. Usually after markings. If you find it tricky to decide the order of steps, it will help if you think about what each step represents and what it would (and wouldn't) alter in real life, and then arrange them accordingly. Most weathering techniques fit into, let's say, four groups (probably not complete, but its what I can think up off the cuff as I type): artistic effects; events which alter the paint; events which damage the paint, and events which deposit all kinds of dirt. With filters, you're at least partly doing those artistic effects: adding or reducing contrast, adding tones, changing colours; all to go from toy-like and one-dimensional to something more alive and interesting to look at. The kind of thing which makes lay observers say "wow" and they have no idea how you achieved it. But to some extent, you can also be representing some alteration of the paint, so what are you trying to show then? Fading? Discolouration? Did that happen to the markings as well, and in the same way? Sometimes, you can treat markings in the same way or similarly; sometimes, maybe you would need to treat them differently. There's no one answer. But what looks really odd to me is an intricate multi-tonal paint finish with lots of weathering... but clean, bright markings. These are the kinds of things which make it essential for me to make lots of notes as I go through every build so that I have some hope of developing a coherent plan for it and doing things a bit better each time!
  15. @PLC1966 A filter is a wide ranging term, as I said. It's any type of heavily translucent paint which in some way alters the tonality, colour or contrast anywhere from locally to right across the whole model. It may be brushed on or airbrushed. It almost certainly derives from the same word in a photography context.
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